DD2 - I'm not getting the wow feeling

So the DD2 has been out in the wild for a week or so but only manged to hook mine up yesterday. Whilst I was waiting to hook up I was reading forums and comments and thought I was in for an amazing experience.

I have been running Pcars 2 with the setting from this site and various other combos for testing and I have to say at this point I am in the "underwhelmed" camp.

I came from the CSW V2 and expected a massive jump and a "wow" moment but this didn't materialise - so what does everybody else think to the experience and is there games out there that provide native support as I'm not sure if the compatibility mode is helping with my experience.

What are others thoughts

Thanks

Comments

  • Initially, I felt similar in that, I was expecting it to immediately blow my mind and becuase the 2.5 is so good, the jump wasnt as dramatic as expected. However, after spending some time tweaking the ffb settings both on the base and in FM7/Dirt Rally and really utilising all that extra power in high torque mode, I am now very excited and grateful to be the owner of this amazing bit of kit. The transitions are perfectly smooth and obviously the power is now sufficient to mimic "reality". I think we all expect our rigs to somehow teleport us into the actual car and make it feel "real" but the equipment can only take us so far, the rest is down to imagination. But as far as the equipment goes, the DD2 is the best available, affordable option to meet that end. Thank you Fanatec.
  • same here, the dd1 is only strong, nothing about that "magic" you can feel the track. its just strong but feels synthetic and numb. dosnt matter what settings and game. over a week i tested hundreds of combinations to get the best out of it.
    my old T-GT gives better ffb details in much finer nuances, its not strong but feels great in all games.
  • I've been quite critical of the delays and the poor communication from Fanatec recently, but...

    Today I finally received my DD1 and after many hours of headache-inducing messing about, I'm properly up and running. My previous wheel was a well-used and trusty CSR Elite. The DD1 feels like huge step-up in comparison. It's like moving from a quality toy to a precison instrument.

    Early days though and I still have much to work out, but already I've discovered there's plenty of good feeling to be found in this system.
  • The suggested starting point also not so hot for me.

    I use all the recommended settings but make changes to base FFB (to 75) and in game volume (to 30) as a starting point.

    Then depending on car I change Volume / Tone.

    Ie Esperante around Nordschleife Im Vol 35 / Tone 60.
  • Joseph GossenJoseph Gossen Member, Moderator
    Hi Rex,

    I assume you are referring to Project Car 2? Is this on PC or Console? Your "Vol" seems quite low. Try these settings and also make sure you are in Comp v2.5 mode on the base.


    RAW 
    75/60/40/25 with 40-50FFB on the DD
  • edited May 2019
    Hi Rex,

    I assume you are referring to Project Car 2? Is this on PC or Console? Your "Vol" seems quite low. Try these settings and also make sure you are in Comp v2.5 mode on the base.


    RAW 
    75/60/40/25 with 40-50FFB on the DD
    Hi Joseph.

    PC2 on PC here and Im in v2.5 mode.

    With those settings I get a lot of clipping on high df bends (ie high df cars at Oulton Park Island Bend, Eau Rouge Spa, 100R Fuji, 110R Sugo etc..)

    Btw was not sure if you starting point was Gain or Volume in your suggested settings - I tried starting at Gain 75 and Volume at 75 and both gave significant clipping in the above examples.

    The low volume is not a problem at all - in fact if anything I prefer it as the description of volume suggests the lower you go the more road you feel.  With the base on higher FFB it means I can lower volume for that plus absolutely no clipping even under the biggest tests.
  • Hi guys,

    I got the dd1, and it's the same here... I come from the CSW V2 and I cannot say that i feel more "information" in the steering wheel, only the maximum torque is much higher, but in my opinion that makes it much less realistic... you have to decrease the force feedback in the games and on the DD1 base, so that you become realistic maximum holding forces, but then the small inputs are filtered away...

    And in sum the torque ripple of my dd1 is much too high... but maybe i got a worse unit...

  • Hi guys,

    I got the dd1, and it's the same here... I come from the CSW V2 and I cannot say that i feel more "information" in the steering wheel, only the maximum torque is much higher, but in my opinion that makes it much less realistic... you have to decrease the force feedback in the games and on the DD1 base, so that you become realistic maximum holding forces, but then the small inputs are filtered away...

    And in sum the torque ripple of my dd1 is much too high... but maybe i got a worse unit...

    What I read in sim racing forums that you cannot just use your old low-torque wheel settings with a DD, because then you just get exactly what you mention: the same FFB but much stronger.

    You'll have to adjust the FFB in your game such that the average FFB isn't much stronger but the mapping of the FFB, especially the subtle forces, is changed to use the larger dynamic range of the wheel. A better wheel isn't a magic bullet if the game doesn't use it properly.

  • I feel dd has FEI effect all time .
  • and now dd people, did you manage to get that crazy wow feeling ?
    still don't know if I have to sell my csw 2.5 !
  • Let me ask something stupid, is there a difference in running the wheel at lets say 100 FFB and in game strength at 10 or running the wheel at 75 FFB and game strength of 25?  I happen to run mine at 100 FFB in the wheel and 4.4 strength in iracing and i am wondering if I am missing something,  is there an advantage over less wheel strength and more game strength?
  • Steve, it's just like 'signal-to-noise ratio' in any other electronics system. Far better to have the stongest clean/unclipped signal from the source and amplify it less than to have a weak signal and amplify it more, thus adding unnecessary noise to the end result.

    So, for best results, set your games FFB output as high as possible without clipping, then adjust the FFB on the wheel to produce the desired physical force at the wheel.


  • thats my point...at 100 FFB in the wheel, i get zero clipping in iracing.  it was way different with my clubsport 2.5 wheeldeck.  if i ran too high in game force it would clip.
  • thats my point...at 100 FFB in the wheel, i get zero clipping in iracing.  it was way different with my clubsport 2.5 wheeldeck.  if i ran too high in game force it would clip.
    I mean the setting is iRacing is specific to the car, not the wheel.  If you click the label it will flip to nm to show where it clips the ingame forces. Something like a Ferrari GT3 creates like 30nm of force, so clipping at 25nm will be clipping.  40nm of force won't be clipping. Same with your old wheel, same with your new wheel.

    The difference of course is that if you set it to 30nm with a DD1 you're getting 0.66:1 forces, versus with a CSW it's only .26:1. If you go over to the iRacing Forum, Brion has many long threads that explain it well.

    Basically you get the best dynamic range leaving the wheel base at 100% and then using in game sliders to lower the ingame FFB. Not all games scale their FFB linearly, as meantioned in the per game defaults threads here, so in some games turning the wheel down may make sense.
  • Josh OskamJosh Oskam Member
    edited May 2019


    I quote:

    "Are you on a DD1 or DD2 .. If you are on a DD2 then move your slide to about 42 or higher as with the DD2 – 33 is quite high.

    If you are on a DD1 then I would suggest moving the Strength slider to maybe 40ish which will change the specific output to about .5:1 rather than .6:1 and should reduce the force at the wheel appropriately."


    As a general thing, it's important to consider whether clipping is happening at the input stage (i.e., in the sim/game) or at the output stage (in this case, the wheelbase).

    Just as with a hi-fi system, to get maximum 'headroom' and dynamic range out of a sim, you don't just turn the amp up full and then turn the input source up and down to get the volume you want. You adjust the input up to get the highest level of clean signal without clipping (which will also have the greatest dynamic range), then adjust the volume of the amp to get the 'strength' you want.

    Of course, you shouldn't send a signal from your sim software that is already clipping either (iRacing or any other), or that will be be what you feel on at the wheel. You send the maximum power clean signal to the wheelbase - and if that means adjusting the FFB of each individual car in game to optimize the FFB, then that's what you have to do.

    Anyway... each to their own, but saying "Basically you get the best dynamic range leaving the wheel base at 100% and then using in game sliders to lower the ingame FFB" promotes a misunderstanding of the principles of 'headroom' and 'dynamic range' in electronics. That isn't true and it's probably the same reason Fanatec don't just tell everyone to set the FFB on the wheelbase to 100.



  • just received the dd1 and I feel the same. Feels like the effect was on 50 at least.

    Any progress?

    How you change to csw 2.5 compatibility mode.?

    Thnxs

  • you can find it in menu

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