I have been trying to setup iracing to avoid oscillation at high speeds. NDP to 40 and friction to 25 keep the wheel in the limit on the oscillations, rumble a little bit but it's nothing crazy. My questions is at high speeds in a long road without any curbs should keep the wheel center.
Are there any tip to remove more the oscillations? Which it's the relationship between Fanalab Dinamic Damper and in wheel settings? how affect each into others?
Probably it would be a great idea if you guys make a demo. It's specially evident on the BMW GTE into iracing. I know that it's a beta driver, but would be great to know how you guys test the driver and with what values and games?
:)
Btw I love how it feels but it's complex at least in iRacing to remove the oscillations at high speed.
after further testing and shutting off my DD1 several times I tried to have some angle in the steering wheel when turning the base off and the knock was non existent.
This Knock when shutting off the base might has something to do with the noisy on center feeling which others and I reported?
Fanatec, why do moderators answer some questions, but simply ignore others?
Earlier in this thread, I asked for advice after my DD1 failed just hours after using the new driver and Fanalab software.
Questions prior to mine, and also others after, got responses from a forum moderator, but my questions were passed over as though they didn't exist. That doesn't make me very happy – and I'm already extremely unhappy due to the failure of my DD1 right before the XMAS holidays.
Could someone please respond, before I have no choice but to become yet another irate customer.
Thanks for your response Marcel. I've managed to resolve the issue now. FYI, I have no XBOX rim. I was using the DD1 F1 PS4. It turns out my issue is that the firmware versions were not up to date. Once updating all the firmware the driver update and Fanalab update work extremely well.
I'd like to take the opportunity to say thanks for all your efforts at Fanatec. Yes there are some issues and it sounds like there is room for the company to evolve a few things. However, thanks for your personal efforts. It feels like your and Maurice do this out of passion more than anything else. I think anyone that tests a beta should be aware (and informed to be fair) that they do it at their own risk if not supported by Fanatec should things go awry. I was starting to rage because my wheel wasn't working right before the XMAS break, but I was mostly raging at myself for taking the risk. I feel for the guy who's wheel won't power-up (crappy timing buddy). Nonetheless, it must feel like a thankless task trying to make things better only to be met by a barrage of customer complaints. Some food for thought, why not crowd source a bit more? There are some clearly very experienced and intelligent people that are your customers. Rather than have them raging against you and putting pressure on you, why not turn them into the solution? Obviously the beta releases can cause more issues than they solve but if you found a group of credible people as your first test group and provided them with support they would be an army you could use to your advantage.
By the way, helping the guy out who has the issue with power-up would be a great display of Christmas cheer and customer service that would go a very long way with Fanatec credibility. It doesn't need to be a precedent, just a really decent thing to do for someone that helped you to test a beta. Imagine the delight it and loyalty it would generate from him and others.
Anyway, keep pushing the limits and providing products we all want. Happy Holidays!!!
Sorry to sound a bit harsh, but I just got my DD and I have never spent this much on sim equipment before so it's a huge investment. I find it terrifying and appalling that Fanatec have not made everything right with Josh. The stable official drivers are so out of date that we have to risk the beta drivers in order to get acceptable results with our expensive premium DD wheel. I am very nervous about this beta driver even though I'm desperately looking for a way to get more from my wheel.
In my opinion, if this driver is too risky then it should be removed from the forum until a more stable update can be released.
Thanks for the support Joel. If only you worked for Fanatec!
Also, just to be clear, under Australian consumer protection laws, no disclaimer can absolve Fanatec of their legal responsibility to fix or replace a faulty item under warranty, and often, even outside it.
Consumer Guarantees and Your Rights Under the Australian Consumer Law
"All goods sold in Australia come with guarantees that cannot be excluded under the Australian Consumer Law. You are entitled to a replacement or refund for a major failure and for compensation for any other reasonably foreseeable loss or damage."
"Consumer guarantees cannot be excluded and are in addition to any extended warranty you purchase or any voluntary warranty (warranty against defects) you are given."
EDIT: I should also point out that I've already contacted the Fanatec service agent in Australia and despite already being on holidays, he has been most helpful, forwarding details on my issue to directly to Fanatec HQ. Neither of us has had any response as yet.
EDIT 2: Fanatec technical support in Germany have just made contact with me, so I'll see where it goes from here.
yes, we are in contact with SCS. They received the SDK and free hardware for development. Now they can work on the implementation of those big rotation angles. Lets see and hope how soon they can adapt to it. Some guys from our team are also looking forward to such updates in ETS ;-)
Dont know if related to the issues with XBOX auto issues but, yesterday while trying rF2 i did notice that although in Fanalab the degrees of rotation go as usual from 1080 to AUTO, but, on rF2 the wheel was wrong, so i checked SEN and realised that the values go way above 108 and only after another ( not 100% sure on the value ) 1000 degrees more the auto shows up. Dont know if a new feature or a bug, cant see whay the wheel would have 2080 orso degrees of rotation.
That's a new feature which was introduced Already with the firmware included in driver 347. It's useful for Truck simulators for example and was a wish from a lot of people. Make sure to use the latest FanaLab version to get the correct sensitivity because the old version can't handle that.
Yes we are looking into it with high priority, according to others the knock was not there before 346 it seems. The knock soundsmechanical but the rotor and stator should not physically touch, therefor it would need to bend or have play in the bearings ?! The sound more comes from the very short but rough movement.
I updated to 352 driver and firmware two days ago, had a quick run, all good. Had a longer run tonight, a couple of hours. AC, PC2 and Forza Horizon, no issues.
At the Windows desktop, about 15 minutes after driving, the wheel made a sudden 'zzt' then clunk sound, and powered off.
I tried cycling the power on the wheel via the connected Fanatec shutdown/restart button I bought, nothing happened.
I unplugged the power brick, waited a few minutes, then plugged it in again. Starting the wheel, it made a zzt thunk sound. Same when I tried again. No lights ever come on.
It's some driver release that the steering lock on auto on rfactor 2 doesn't work. Please, Fanatec, could you take a look and fix this annoying bug? Thanks in advance.
I want to add some review about the new beta driver v352 update.
when i dit instal the update i feld a good amount of ffb and was happy to adjust the wheight of the wheel whit the NIN/Natural Inertia setting.
Beacause of that setting you have more real car steering, what i mean is that its not so springy anymore and you feel the weight of the front wheels from the car trou the steering collum. The spring setting is a good thing but you need the NIN to make it real and i like it a lot!
Now i want to let you know what i think of the Interpolation/INT setting.
I posted (i think a week ago) a adjusted setting on the standard settings of fanatec for the podium f1 assetto corsa ps4.
In that post i speak about the FEI setting and that i think its to shocky if you put it on 100 with the FFB on 50, in game 75 and everything els on 0.
i stil think that 30 is a good number and tweak everything in game but now you have to deal with the Interpolation/INT setting and it makes it even more shocky, even if i put the INT setting on the highest amount to make it les rough. you feel something touching trou the steeringwheel in the podium base on a constant basis.
also when i drive for instance the porsche rsr gt3 the wheel is constand moving when driving and you feel that touching metal inside the wheel base.
i tride every setting to make it les prenounced but the only setting that makes it going away is the max FFB setting but if you do that and you go to 0 you have of course now FFB. In my opinion you need more Interpolation/INT to round up the nois just as setting the FEI setting lower to 30.
After some racing i coudn't go further because of the feeling that i would break something and shut of the base and heard a hard metal sound. Today i reinstald the defauld drivers and everything is back to normal but stil the FEI needs to be lower to round everything up.
i think the main issue is all the noise it produces what makes it al to intens.
Windows 10/64bit, Version 1903, OS build 18362.535
Games Tested:
Race Room--> Great FFB... Best all around FFB Feel in every car Class.
Asstto Corsa---> Really Good FFB
Assetto Corsa Competizion--->Good FFB
Dirt Rally 2.0--->Good
Automobilista--> Great FFB ...very underrated game
Pcars2--->Fair but Felt better than it ever has before.
Driver and Wheel FW work Very Well... Games Now have better FFB feel than Ever before.
I tested Pcars2 with DD2 in V2.5 mode and Even Pcars2 felt Surprisingly Good...better than its ever felt.
Race Room(RRE) after the Big update has absolutly Amazing feel with the New Fw!!!
The Dr and Wheel Fw is stable in every Game tested as long as you set your wheel settings on the wheel.... Only when I open up the Fanatec wheel Properties page and try to set wheel settings through it do i get the Random Flickering between Podium Hub and UHX.
Every Now and again I get a Random out of place thump in the wheel but its Not concerning to Me... But I can't identify what's causing it. Dr, Wheel Fw or Glitch in Game FFB???
IMO I think this New Wheel Fw is a Step in the Right direction and is very Good....The Driver Needs tweeking because of the Random Switching between podium and UHX Hub.
Also, when you go in the pitstop for about 3 or 4 times, in the same practice session, the wheel looses the feedback and starts to act like there is some sort of "rusted gear" inside. Closing the game and restaring it, just the game and not the wheel, fixes the problem, but after 3 or 4 times, it reappears, same pattern.
Regarding rFactor 2. Delete controller.ini in your documents folder or installfolder. Its in the userdata - player. Then go ingame and reload your saved controller config.
so lets talk about the button box, so does this work off of a UDP signal like project cars 2 or f1 2019 already uses or are we waiting for new coding to be added to titles for this to be used outside of legacy mode?
I know its been mentioned that fanatec has sent out sdk and hardware to developers, but what are they or is in development at this point?
I bring this up because ac, pc2, f12019 and gt sport all have some type of tire temperature and degradation models and a couple also already have UDP support?
I posted in the wrong forum thread. I posted this thread in the fanalab update. But I have updated to the beta drivers on the DD. That includes the base, motor, and wheel driver updates as well as the new Beta FanaLab.
I noticed this has been reported several times already by various people on this thread. When I power off the DD, there is a very distinct and audible metallic click noise."
Hello community, I have the same problem here, I also hear this metallic noise when I turn off my DD2. I also occasionally have a kind of "clipping" on assetto corsa, the only game I have tested actually with the driver 352.
Yeah, this "rusted gear" issue is the only reason I want to go back to v346 firmware (in addition to that thump when I turn off my dd2). The same "rusted feel" but without the loss of ffb it can be heard in Assetto Corsa and Raceroom (in the latter title only before engaging the gear; after the start the problem seems to vanish). For this reason, I hope that Fanatec fix it as soon as possible.
Comments
Thanks for your quick answer Maurice.
But how to understand this sentence in the Disclaimer then ? Maybe I just understand it wrong.
"The software is licensed "as-is." You bear the risk of using it. Endor AG gives no express warranties, guarantees or conditions."
Hey Marcel,
I have been trying to setup iracing to avoid oscillation at high speeds. NDP to 40 and friction to 25 keep the wheel in the limit on the oscillations, rumble a little bit but it's nothing crazy. My questions is at high speeds in a long road without any curbs should keep the wheel center.
Are there any tip to remove more the oscillations? Which it's the relationship between Fanalab Dinamic Damper and in wheel settings? how affect each into others?
Probably it would be a great idea if you guys make a demo. It's specially evident on the BMW GTE into iracing. I know that it's a beta driver, but would be great to know how you guys test the driver and with what values and games?
:)
Btw I love how it feels but it's complex at least in iRacing to remove the oscillations at high speed.
Hey again,
after further testing and shutting off my DD1 several times I tried to have some angle in the steering wheel when turning the base off and the knock was non existent.
This Knock when shutting off the base might has something to do with the noisy on center feeling which others and I reported?
Fanatec, why do moderators answer some questions, but simply ignore others?
Earlier in this thread, I asked for advice after my DD1 failed just hours after using the new driver and Fanalab software.
Questions prior to mine, and also others after, got responses from a forum moderator, but my questions were passed over as though they didn't exist. That doesn't make me very happy – and I'm already extremely unhappy due to the failure of my DD1 right before the XMAS holidays.
Could someone please respond, before I have no choice but to become yet another irate customer.
Thanks for your response Marcel. I've managed to resolve the issue now. FYI, I have no XBOX rim. I was using the DD1 F1 PS4. It turns out my issue is that the firmware versions were not up to date. Once updating all the firmware the driver update and Fanalab update work extremely well.
I'd like to take the opportunity to say thanks for all your efforts at Fanatec. Yes there are some issues and it sounds like there is room for the company to evolve a few things. However, thanks for your personal efforts. It feels like your and Maurice do this out of passion more than anything else. I think anyone that tests a beta should be aware (and informed to be fair) that they do it at their own risk if not supported by Fanatec should things go awry. I was starting to rage because my wheel wasn't working right before the XMAS break, but I was mostly raging at myself for taking the risk. I feel for the guy who's wheel won't power-up (crappy timing buddy). Nonetheless, it must feel like a thankless task trying to make things better only to be met by a barrage of customer complaints. Some food for thought, why not crowd source a bit more? There are some clearly very experienced and intelligent people that are your customers. Rather than have them raging against you and putting pressure on you, why not turn them into the solution? Obviously the beta releases can cause more issues than they solve but if you found a group of credible people as your first test group and provided them with support they would be an army you could use to your advantage.
By the way, helping the guy out who has the issue with power-up would be a great display of Christmas cheer and customer service that would go a very long way with Fanatec credibility. It doesn't need to be a precedent, just a really decent thing to do for someone that helped you to test a beta. Imagine the delight it and loyalty it would generate from him and others.
Anyway, keep pushing the limits and providing products we all want. Happy Holidays!!!
+1
Very well said Oliver!
Fanatec, make this right ^^
Sorry to sound a bit harsh, but I just got my DD and I have never spent this much on sim equipment before so it's a huge investment. I find it terrifying and appalling that Fanatec have not made everything right with Josh. The stable official drivers are so out of date that we have to risk the beta drivers in order to get acceptable results with our expensive premium DD wheel. I am very nervous about this beta driver even though I'm desperately looking for a way to get more from my wheel.
In my opinion, if this driver is too risky then it should be removed from the forum until a more stable update can be released.
Sorry Marcel, but I dont have the possibilty of using a differnt PC to verify the issue... 🙁
Thanks for the support Joel. If only you worked for Fanatec!
Also, just to be clear, under Australian consumer protection laws, no disclaimer can absolve Fanatec of their legal responsibility to fix or replace a faulty item under warranty, and often, even outside it.
Consumer Guarantees and Your Rights Under the Australian Consumer Law
"All goods sold in Australia come with guarantees that cannot be excluded under the Australian Consumer Law. You are entitled to a replacement or refund for a major failure and for compensation for any other reasonably foreseeable loss or damage."
"Consumer guarantees cannot be excluded and are in addition to any extended warranty you purchase or any voluntary warranty (warranty against defects) you are given."
EDIT: I should also point out that I've already contacted the Fanatec service agent in Australia and despite already being on holidays, he has been most helpful, forwarding details on my issue to directly to Fanatec HQ. Neither of us has had any response as yet.
EDIT 2: Fanatec technical support in Germany have just made contact with me, so I'll see where it goes from here.
Hi Dennis,
yes, we are in contact with SCS. They received the SDK and free hardware for development. Now they can work on the implementation of those big rotation angles. Lets see and hope how soon they can adapt to it. Some guys from our team are also looking forward to such updates in ETS ;-)
Armin
COM 3 is locked by any opther software on your PC.
Unplug anything that might use COM 3.
Remove any software that might use COM 3 from your startup.
Restart the PC and try again.
@Fanatec: Maybe you should do a more solid test if a certain COM port is in use.
Plug into other USB port for flashing. works for me.
Dont know if related to the issues with XBOX auto issues but, yesterday while trying rF2 i did notice that although in Fanalab the degrees of rotation go as usual from 1080 to AUTO, but, on rF2 the wheel was wrong, so i checked SEN and realised that the values go way above 108 and only after another ( not 100% sure on the value ) 1000 degrees more the auto shows up. Dont know if a new feature or a bug, cant see whay the wheel would have 2080 orso degrees of rotation.
That's a new feature which was introduced Already with the firmware included in driver 347. It's useful for Truck simulators for example and was a wish from a lot of people. Make sure to use the latest FanaLab version to get the correct sensitivity because the old version can't handle that.
Yes we are looking into it with high priority, according to others the knock was not there before 346 it seems. The knock soundsmechanical but the rotor and stator should not physically touch, therefor it would need to bend or have play in the bearings ?! The sound more comes from the very short but rough movement.
352 appears to have bricked my DD1.
I updated to 352 driver and firmware two days ago, had a quick run, all good. Had a longer run tonight, a couple of hours. AC, PC2 and Forza Horizon, no issues.
At the Windows desktop, about 15 minutes after driving, the wheel made a sudden 'zzt' then clunk sound, and powered off.
I tried cycling the power on the wheel via the connected Fanatec shutdown/restart button I bought, nothing happened.
I unplugged the power brick, waited a few minutes, then plugged it in again. Starting the wheel, it made a zzt thunk sound. Same when I tried again. No lights ever come on.
It seems dead now.
Tech support message sent...
It's some driver release that the steering lock on auto on rfactor 2 doesn't work. Please, Fanatec, could you take a look and fix this annoying bug? Thanks in advance.
Hey Marcel
I want to add some review about the new beta driver v352 update.
when i dit instal the update i feld a good amount of ffb and was happy to adjust the wheight of the wheel whit the NIN/Natural Inertia setting.
Beacause of that setting you have more real car steering, what i mean is that its not so springy anymore and you feel the weight of the front wheels from the car trou the steering collum. The spring setting is a good thing but you need the NIN to make it real and i like it a lot!
Now i want to let you know what i think of the Interpolation/INT setting.
I posted (i think a week ago) a adjusted setting on the standard settings of fanatec for the podium f1 assetto corsa ps4.
In that post i speak about the FEI setting and that i think its to shocky if you put it on 100 with the FFB on 50, in game 75 and everything els on 0.
i stil think that 30 is a good number and tweak everything in game but now you have to deal with the Interpolation/INT setting and it makes it even more shocky, even if i put the INT setting on the highest amount to make it les rough. you feel something touching trou the steeringwheel in the podium base on a constant basis.
also when i drive for instance the porsche rsr gt3 the wheel is constand moving when driving and you feel that touching metal inside the wheel base.
i tride every setting to make it les prenounced but the only setting that makes it going away is the max FFB setting but if you do that and you go to 0 you have of course now FFB. In my opinion you need more Interpolation/INT to round up the nois just as setting the FEI setting lower to 30.
After some racing i coudn't go further because of the feeling that i would break something and shut of the base and heard a hard metal sound. Today i reinstald the defauld drivers and everything is back to normal but stil the FEI needs to be lower to round everything up.
i think the main issue is all the noise it produces what makes it al to intens.
hope to hear from you!
gr Peter
Base DD2, Xbox Hub w/Podium APM
Dr 352, Fw 669, Motor Fw 38.
Windows 10/64bit, Version 1903, OS build 18362.535
Games Tested:
Race Room--> Great FFB... Best all around FFB Feel in every car Class.
Asstto Corsa---> Really Good FFB
Assetto Corsa Competizion--->Good FFB
Dirt Rally 2.0--->Good
Automobilista--> Great FFB ...very underrated game
Pcars2--->Fair but Felt better than it ever has before.
Driver and Wheel FW work Very Well... Games Now have better FFB feel than Ever before.
I tested Pcars2 with DD2 in V2.5 mode and Even Pcars2 felt Surprisingly Good...better than its ever felt.
Race Room(RRE) after the Big update has absolutly Amazing feel with the New Fw!!!
The Dr and Wheel Fw is stable in every Game tested as long as you set your wheel settings on the wheel.... Only when I open up the Fanatec wheel Properties page and try to set wheel settings through it do i get the Random Flickering between Podium Hub and UHX.
Every Now and again I get a Random out of place thump in the wheel but its Not concerning to Me... But I can't identify what's causing it. Dr, Wheel Fw or Glitch in Game FFB???
IMO I think this New Wheel Fw is a Step in the Right direction and is very Good....The Driver Needs tweeking because of the Random Switching between podium and UHX Hub.
I can confirm this bug.
Also, when you go in the pitstop for about 3 or 4 times, in the same practice session, the wheel looses the feedback and starts to act like there is some sort of "rusted gear" inside. Closing the game and restaring it, just the game and not the wheel, fixes the problem, but after 3 or 4 times, it reappears, same pattern.
Regarding rFactor 2. Delete controller.ini in your documents folder or installfolder. Its in the userdata - player. Then go ingame and reload your saved controller config.
so lets talk about the button box, so does this work off of a UDP signal like project cars 2 or f1 2019 already uses or are we waiting for new coding to be added to titles for this to be used outside of legacy mode?
I know its been mentioned that fanatec has sent out sdk and hardware to developers, but what are they or is in development at this point?
I bring this up because ac, pc2, f12019 and gt sport all have some type of tire temperature and degradation models and a couple also already have UDP support?
Maybe this will lighten the mood here?
"Cassandra W18 déc. 2019
I posted in the wrong forum thread. I posted this thread in the fanalab update. But I have updated to the beta drivers on the DD. That includes the base, motor, and wheel driver updates as well as the new Beta FanaLab.
I noticed this has been reported several times already by various people on this thread. When I power off the DD, there is a very distinct and audible metallic click noise."
Hello community, I have the same problem here, I also hear this metallic noise when I turn off my DD2. I also occasionally have a kind of "clipping" on assetto corsa, the only game I have tested actually with the driver 352.
Yeah, this "rusted gear" issue is the only reason I want to go back to v346 firmware (in addition to that thump when I turn off my dd2). The same "rusted feel" but without the loss of ffb it can be heard in Assetto Corsa and Raceroom (in the latter title only before engaging the gear; after the start the problem seems to vanish). For this reason, I hope that Fanatec fix it as soon as possible.
Thank you for the advice, I hope to try it tonight and eventually I'll update my post.
wrong thread, nevermind ^^
I just saw that the button module endurance software package contains the beta driver v353 and fanalab v1.24. Can we use both for our dd2?
Yes.
Where did you find those? There's no software download link on the PBME page.
https://forum.fanatec.com/discussion/1438/podium-button-module-endurance-software-package-incl-instructions#latest