Normal rev leds should be available in iRacing, only most flagleds are not supported by the poor iRacing telemetry output.
ITM change will always require to press the Tuning Menu button as well as Dpad to make it widely compatible with other wheels. No other method planned.
Hey Bill, the LEDs are working in iRacing, but you have to go back into Fanalab and manually activate them again, and then make sure that the Fanatec Shift IND is unchecked in the graphics options in iRacing. I was having this same issue earlier. They LEDs lag behind the on screen graphics though, so they require per car adjustments :(.
Oddly enough, if I just check the Fanatec Shift IND box, then the LEDs actually match up with the graphics, but Marcel let us know that we aren't supposed to do this because then the rest of the LED functions don't behave properly
Actually, the leds do not always lag behind in its default config. On some cars it's the opposite and the leds are activated too early. But that's normal and the same for every other led application - you just have to adjust them for every car as you said.
Also yes of course by checking the iRacing checkbox for Fanatec Leds they match with the in game ones because with that checkbox you activate the native leds which iRacing Programmed already for every car which should match the in game leds fine. That's also normal and actually not odd. ^^
However, you are limited to Yellow/Red/Blue and you can't chose other colors or reversed/inversed directions etc and you have to live with what the iRacing dev has developed. Also by enabling that checkbox the native leds get in conflict with fanalab so you can only use either native leds or FanaLab leds.
Yes as I said the LEDs "not available" are due to iRacing not providing the telemetry. BTW have not had an opportunity to check if Fanatec has the yellow flag working, Crew Chief's excellent software has it working.
To make the ITM require two hands is another example of the "Fanatec Way".
Because the ITM is available on the Base it is crucial to have it mapped to both Tuning Menu press and Dpad functions so you can scroll through the ITM with every Fanatec wheel even it doesn't have the bug OLED display like the BME does and also to not activate an ingame function because only when pressing the tuning menu button the button presses are deactivated for in Game. So when you wouldn't press the tuning menu button but just turn the Dpad and you have something mapped to your Dpad in Game then the function would be activated which is not what you want.
It's nothing about a Fanatec Way. It's customer service.
Because Fanatec chose to add the ITM to the Base without adequate configuration management and software development that should be designed to loosely couple the hardware to the multiple games and wheels is the "Fanatec Way".
On my end ITM doesn't work with RF2 and PC2, I havent had the time to test properly with my other sims. I can live without ITM, I have that info on a separate tablet thru simhub anyway, I am generally happy in legacy mode. I am more concerned with the instabilities.
First I should mention I had several COMPLETE PC CRASHES while I was making adjustment on the fanatec wheel property page.
While the driver installed fine the first time, on two occasions I found that the driver didn't recognise the fanatec hardware, I tried switching usb port, restarting the pc etc. Finally I had to remove the device from the device manager and repair the driver for it to work again, that is what I call "unstable" I made me waste a lot of time and caused me a lot of aggravation/frustration.
Also, on the second day, the "reverse" button on the button box stopped working, it wouldn't register on the function test page, I thought it was broken, but it started working again after I had to repair the driver, not a very normal/predictable behaviour.
I only use comp mode with PC2, when I did, I put the correct parameters directly in the fanatec wheel property page, then started the game, the SEN was wrong in the game so I shut it down and went back to the fanatec wheel property page and the SEN and other parameters that I had set had gone back to different values. It happened various times and I had to fiddle for an hour back and forth to make it work.
Also, for some reason, the settings in the wheel property page dont sync with those in fanalab.
I had none of these issues with my R300 wheel and driver 347, I didnt use fanalab back then. I should mention that I use a dedicated pc, only used for sim racing there is no software on there other than steam, the sims, a few utilities and avast.
I choose fanatec over other sim hardware brands because I was told I would have no compatibility issues and everything would work right out of the box, I understand software is complicated and there will always be little bugs, especially with new products but this has been a very frustrating experience so far with the BBE.
After a very long peridoe of time, I finally got my Porsche Wheel, Button Module Endurance and Advanced Paddle Shifter.
I have installed everything on my Univeral Xbox Hub and followed the update procedure step by step as described here.
I have now driver version 353, 670, 38 and 9. At the beginning everything seems to work OK, until I recognized troubles at Forza Motorsport 7 (which I aminly use to race).
At Forza Motorsport 7 a lot of buttons do NOT work properly. Shifter Paddles do not work at all, when I push the tuning button everything seems to react very slowly or simply do not react. When I go back into the Xbox menü (Home button) everything runs smooth without any problem. I have tested Dirt Rally 2.0, Assetto Corsa F1 2019 and I did NOT had any issues with these games (appart from the sensitifity bug which is ralated to the latest beta driver).
Please add the described "button issue on Forza Motorsport 7 on Xbox" on the known issue list and take a closer look into this problem.
iRacing LeMans 29 cars all GTE about 30 minutes into the one hour race pedals stopped responding, the wheel lost all settings. What I mean by stopped responding is that the car continue with some momentum as if the accelerator was depressed but did not respond to either the accelerator or the brake. The steering became very heavy. I used the ESC button on the keyboard to put me back in the pits. My Exit paddle on the wheel was not responding. When I got back to the pits I checked (ALT/TAB) and FanaLab had not crashed. I then used the emergency power switch to power down the wheel and restarted with my remote power button. I then (ALT/TAB) backed to Fanalab and reloaded my RSR profile.
Although the car was now crap I was able to finish the remainder of the race.
I fotgot to mention 1 important thing: When I change to my Formula V2 Wheel, I do NOT have the button issue at Forza Motorsport 7. I only have this problem when I use the PBME in Forza Motorsport 7 on Xbox One.
Uhm, they are the same size. First you obviously have to put off the already attached colored Porsche button caps from the BME. Then all the buttons are black and in same size as other CSW wheels and you can attach the racking style button caps or the PS4 caps.
I am Very Happy with the Porsche Rim and Have Had No issues with it other than trying to figure out why My Left Joy stick would Not Work or Show any sign of Life... Which was My Own Error because I had the Dual Pedals Mapped as Analogue Axis and It is Not Possible to have them Mapped as Analogue Axis and the Joy stick work at the same time... I was informed this is Not a Dr or Fw Flaw its just the way its designed to work.
The PBME with Dr 353, Fw 670 is Really showing the potential of what can be done even though the Dr/Fw is Not perfected yet.
Only issue I have had is with occasional BSOD when powering down the wheel base - hopefully this will be resolved as a matter of urgency as it is a serious software problem - details below
I have tested a few configurations today (Forza Motorsport 7 on Xbox using P-BME on Universal Hub for Xbox One).
First of all, I have downgraded to V347 and followed the instructions step by step to update the firmware again (V353, V670 Rev 1819, V38 and V9). The button issue at Forza is still here. When I disconnect the P-BME ingame, I can use the shifter paddles. When I connect the P-BME the shifter paddles are NOT working anymore.
The following buttons are affected:
Tuning Button - sometimes do not react, sometimes react but with delay - strange behave
When I enter the tuning menu, the navigation in the menu is also "interrupted" and jerky
#4 (mark fuel reset) - starnge behave like the tuning button
All other buttons seems to work normal (apart from the APM).
Other games which I have tested so far (Dirt Rally 2.0, F1 2019, Assetto Corsa) do NOT have a problem with the Button Module Endurance. I hope the describtion above helps to identify the root cause for the issue.
For everyone that is also suffering from the bluescreen when turning off the wheel, do the following steps before turing of the base:
Quit you game
Exit the ITM on the weel and the base by going back to the "standard mode" (the mode where you can see the base stats like FF-meter, temps, etc and the legcy mode on the P-BME)
Close FanaLab completely
Now, you should be able to turn off your wheel without crashing your PC
Calling this driver a BETA is a joke tbh. PRE-ALPHA would suit far better, because its hella unstable, lacks a lot of features (only page 1 fully supported). BETA usually means feature complete with some bugs, but we are nowhere near this with the driver, nor the ITM. When did we had the last stable (Release) Driver from Fanatec, supporting all fancy features of their current flagship hardware, without a felt endless list of known issues again? Must have been months ago.
To everyone with button mapping issues: Don't forget to update your Podium Hub Firmware to v2. This is for whatever reason not part of the step-by-step instructions from the driver package and needs to be done as well.
I do NOT use the P-BME on the Podium Hub, but do have the button issue with the universal hub for Xbox. Unfortunately there is no firmware update for the UHX to fix this issue.
When I am inside the driver and press the "pit speed" button the "display" button is also activated.
Did you update the Podium Hub??? This should be done first without the PBME USB C plugged in...After updating the Podium Hub Plug PBME back in and Update PBME again.... Podium Hub and PBME are different/Sperate updates... Hopefully this will get it sorted.
Comments
Normal rev leds should be available in iRacing, only most flagleds are not supported by the poor iRacing telemetry output.
ITM change will always require to press the Tuning Menu button as well as Dpad to make it widely compatible with other wheels. No other method planned.
Hey Bill, the LEDs are working in iRacing, but you have to go back into Fanalab and manually activate them again, and then make sure that the Fanatec Shift IND is unchecked in the graphics options in iRacing. I was having this same issue earlier. They LEDs lag behind the on screen graphics though, so they require per car adjustments :(.
Oddly enough, if I just check the Fanatec Shift IND box, then the LEDs actually match up with the graphics, but Marcel let us know that we aren't supposed to do this because then the rest of the LED functions don't behave properly
Actually, the leds do not always lag behind in its default config. On some cars it's the opposite and the leds are activated too early. But that's normal and the same for every other led application - you just have to adjust them for every car as you said.
Also yes of course by checking the iRacing checkbox for Fanatec Leds they match with the in game ones because with that checkbox you activate the native leds which iRacing Programmed already for every car which should match the in game leds fine. That's also normal and actually not odd. ^^
However, you are limited to Yellow/Red/Blue and you can't chose other colors or reversed/inversed directions etc and you have to live with what the iRacing dev has developed. Also by enabling that checkbox the native leds get in conflict with fanalab so you can only use either native leds or FanaLab leds.
Yes as I said the LEDs "not available" are due to iRacing not providing the telemetry. BTW have not had an opportunity to check if Fanatec has the yellow flag working, Crew Chief's excellent software has it working.
To make the ITM require two hands is another example of the "Fanatec Way".
Because the ITM is available on the Base it is crucial to have it mapped to both Tuning Menu press and Dpad functions so you can scroll through the ITM with every Fanatec wheel even it doesn't have the bug OLED display like the BME does and also to not activate an ingame function because only when pressing the tuning menu button the button presses are deactivated for in Game. So when you wouldn't press the tuning menu button but just turn the Dpad and you have something mapped to your Dpad in Game then the function would be activated which is not what you want.
It's nothing about a Fanatec Way. It's customer service.
Because Fanatec chose to add the ITM to the Base without adequate configuration management and software development that should be designed to loosely couple the hardware to the multiple games and wheels is the "Fanatec Way".
Hello Maurice,
On my end ITM doesn't work with RF2 and PC2, I havent had the time to test properly with my other sims. I can live without ITM, I have that info on a separate tablet thru simhub anyway, I am generally happy in legacy mode. I am more concerned with the instabilities.
First I should mention I had several COMPLETE PC CRASHES while I was making adjustment on the fanatec wheel property page.
While the driver installed fine the first time, on two occasions I found that the driver didn't recognise the fanatec hardware, I tried switching usb port, restarting the pc etc. Finally I had to remove the device from the device manager and repair the driver for it to work again, that is what I call "unstable" I made me waste a lot of time and caused me a lot of aggravation/frustration.
Also, on the second day, the "reverse" button on the button box stopped working, it wouldn't register on the function test page, I thought it was broken, but it started working again after I had to repair the driver, not a very normal/predictable behaviour.
I only use comp mode with PC2, when I did, I put the correct parameters directly in the fanatec wheel property page, then started the game, the SEN was wrong in the game so I shut it down and went back to the fanatec wheel property page and the SEN and other parameters that I had set had gone back to different values. It happened various times and I had to fiddle for an hour back and forth to make it work.
Also, for some reason, the settings in the wheel property page dont sync with those in fanalab.
I had none of these issues with my R300 wheel and driver 347, I didnt use fanalab back then. I should mention that I use a dedicated pc, only used for sim racing there is no software on there other than steam, the sims, a few utilities and avast.
I choose fanatec over other sim hardware brands because I was told I would have no compatibility issues and everything would work right out of the box, I understand software is complicated and there will always be little bugs, especially with new products but this has been a very frustrating experience so far with the BBE.
After a very long peridoe of time, I finally got my Porsche Wheel, Button Module Endurance and Advanced Paddle Shifter.
I have installed everything on my Univeral Xbox Hub and followed the update procedure step by step as described here.
I have now driver version 353, 670, 38 and 9. At the beginning everything seems to work OK, until I recognized troubles at Forza Motorsport 7 (which I aminly use to race).
At Forza Motorsport 7 a lot of buttons do NOT work properly. Shifter Paddles do not work at all, when I push the tuning button everything seems to react very slowly or simply do not react. When I go back into the Xbox menü (Home button) everything runs smooth without any problem. I have tested Dirt Rally 2.0, Assetto Corsa F1 2019 and I did NOT had any issues with these games (appart from the sensitifity bug which is ralated to the latest beta driver).
Please add the described "button issue on Forza Motorsport 7 on Xbox" on the known issue list and take a closer look into this problem.
Thanks in advance.
Podium Steering Wheel Porsche wirth R300 swap
PC Driver 353
WB FW 670
WB Motor 38
SW FW 9
PHUB FW 2
Fanalab 1.24
iRacing LeMans 29 cars all GTE about 30 minutes into the one hour race pedals stopped responding, the wheel lost all settings. What I mean by stopped responding is that the car continue with some momentum as if the accelerator was depressed but did not respond to either the accelerator or the brake. The steering became very heavy. I used the ESC button on the keyboard to put me back in the pits. My Exit paddle on the wheel was not responding. When I got back to the pits I checked (ALT/TAB) and FanaLab had not crashed. I then used the emergency power switch to power down the wheel and restarted with my remote power button. I then (ALT/TAB) backed to Fanalab and reloaded my RSR profile.
Although the car was now crap I was able to finish the remainder of the race.
I fotgot to mention 1 important thing: When I change to my Formula V2 Wheel, I do NOT have the button issue at Forza Motorsport 7. I only have this problem when I use the PBME in Forza Motorsport 7 on Xbox One.
How you do it? Apparently aren’t the same size
Uhm, they are the same size. First you obviously have to put off the already attached colored Porsche button caps from the BME. Then all the buttons are black and in same size as other CSW wheels and you can attach the racking style button caps or the PS4 caps.
what method do you guys use to remove the button caps? My caps are on there tight and I feel like I'm going to rip the button out
Keith-- A plastic pry bar like this one gets those caps off quite easily. https://www.belmetric.com/pry-bars-scrapers-c-487_1247/bluebone-plastic-pry-bar-p-3025.html
Cheers,
Cassie
Thanks Cassie
So far Im really happy with my Porsche Wheel. 👍️
Together with my DD1 I have no issues so far, the only thing remaining is the random jolt every now and then.
Yes Agree 100%
I am Very Happy with the Porsche Rim and Have Had No issues with it other than trying to figure out why My Left Joy stick would Not Work or Show any sign of Life... Which was My Own Error because I had the Dual Pedals Mapped as Analogue Axis and It is Not Possible to have them Mapped as Analogue Axis and the Joy stick work at the same time... I was informed this is Not a Dr or Fw Flaw its just the way its designed to work.
The PBME with Dr 353, Fw 670 is Really showing the potential of what can be done even though the Dr/Fw is Not perfected yet.
Only issue I have had is with occasional BSOD when powering down the wheel base - hopefully this will be resolved as a matter of urgency as it is a serious software problem - details below
Bugcheck code: 0xD1 (0xFFFFE28D58FE682E, 0x2, 0x0, 0xFFFFF80617576949)
Error: DRIVER_IRQL_NOT_LESS_OR_EQUAL
file path: C:\WINDOWS\system32\drivers\fwfilterusb.sys
product: Fanatec Wheel
company: Endor AG
description: Fanatec Wheel Filter Driver
I have a complete PC crash whenever I turn the wheel off...
I have tested a few configurations today (Forza Motorsport 7 on Xbox using P-BME on Universal Hub for Xbox One).
First of all, I have downgraded to V347 and followed the instructions step by step to update the firmware again (V353, V670 Rev 1819, V38 and V9). The button issue at Forza is still here. When I disconnect the P-BME ingame, I can use the shifter paddles. When I connect the P-BME the shifter paddles are NOT working anymore.
The following buttons are affected:
Other games which I have tested so far (Dirt Rally 2.0, F1 2019, Assetto Corsa) do NOT have a problem with the Button Module Endurance. I hope the describtion above helps to identify the root cause for the issue.
For everyone that is also suffering from the bluescreen when turning off the wheel, do the following steps before turing of the base:
Calling this driver a BETA is a joke tbh. PRE-ALPHA would suit far better, because its hella unstable, lacks a lot of features (only page 1 fully supported). BETA usually means feature complete with some bugs, but we are nowhere near this with the driver, nor the ITM. When did we had the last stable (Release) Driver from Fanatec, supporting all fancy features of their current flagship hardware, without a felt endless list of known issues again? Must have been months ago.
To everyone with button mapping issues: Don't forget to update your Podium Hub Firmware to v2. This is for whatever reason not part of the step-by-step instructions from the driver package and needs to be done as well.
I do NOT use the P-BME on the Podium Hub, but do have the button issue with the universal hub for Xbox. Unfortunately there is no firmware update for the UHX to fix this issue.
When I am inside the driver and press the "pit speed" button the "display" button is also activated.
This is already known and will be fixed for the next release. (button mapping is done through base firmware so no need to update UHX)
Could this issue be the root cause for the problems I have in Forza Motorsport 7 when using the P-BME?
Hello all.
Yesterday, I assembled my Steering Wheel (Podium GT3).
During the step 4, instead showing PBME.RIM is showing Podium Hub.
Do you guys have any clue how to solve this? (I already sent an email to Fanatec support )
Regards
Make sure you have the Base firmware updated to v670 and the usb cable connected to the Hub.
Hello Maurice.
My base is already update to v670 and the USB c is connected too.
When I first turned on, I saw the display showing a fanatec logo.
Now, is not even turning on
But, I can see my shifters through the fanatec's driver.
Did you update the Podium Hub??? This should be done first without the PBME USB C plugged in...After updating the Podium Hub Plug PBME back in and Update PBME again.... Podium Hub and PBME are different/Sperate updates... Hopefully this will get it sorted.
There is nothing mention I should disconnect it:
Step 4: Update the firmware of the Button Module Endurance to version 9
Thank you for your attention.
As others already wrote your Podium Hub needs to be updated to Firmware V2, otherwise the PBME won't work. This isn't mentioned in the instructions.
To update the Podium Hub you need to disconnect the PBME. After that you are fine, if you already updated the PBME 😀