CSW 2.5 Loses FFB/Mclaren GT3 v2 wheel goes dead for a few seconds

Hi Guys

Yesterday i noticed my wheel would go dead while driving. My pedals would still work (thrustmaster loadcell plugged in with usb to my pc) but my wheel rim and base would go dead. The ffb would go light but I could still steer. The lights on my wheel (mclaren gt3 v2) would turn off and I couldn't shift up or use any button on my wheel. This would last only a couple of seconds, (3-4 at most) This was on assetto corsa and it happened consitently in turn 1 and the back straight at virginia international raceway. However it wasn't every lap. I'm very confused has anyone experienced something similar.


  • yes exactly the same issue. I ended sending my GT#3 wheel back and a repalcement was sent. I had the same issue with the new wheel and that has gone back for testing. I have the same issue now with a V2 and am doing a series of tests as I suspect the issue lies in the base - same base as you is what I have. There are a few threads about people losing FFB momentarily and a few theories around wether it is an over heating issue or something to do with USB. I am documenting all my findings before contacting Fantec - so far I have done 3 nights and the issue never occurs in the first hour of driving - simplistically this points to a heating issue ? Next step is to swap my V2 out with my Hub (GT# wheel attached) and do exactly the same races to see IF I can replciate the issue with a totally different wheel.

  • i also had a feeling it could have been a heat issue. It seemed to happen more commonly when the fans were on. i dont particulalry want to turn down my ffb though. What settings do you have yours at? if you could repost your findings that would be fantastic. Seems its more likely to be a base issue then

  • HI Aiden. Sorry for the delay. What I haver discovered so far is that it may likely be setting related. Recently I found on the Fanatec site a message about DRI setting. The recommended used to be to have this set to OFF but in the FAQ pages there is now mention that for CSW 2.5 it shpould be set to -5. I have made that change but I also changed FF (overall FFB strength to 90%. I have done at least 5 nights of a couple of hours erach time and the issue has not returned. I know I should have only made 1 change to know which one resolved the issue but because it works I have left it alone. Of note changing FF to 90% makes no difference that is noticebale in my opinion and I assume the setting in Iracing overules and is lower than 90% nay way. Let me know if this helps

  • Sorry for the late reply too. Thank you very much for the information. This is something I will definitely try. DRI settings are in the fanatec software aren't they? I will try just the DRI at first and then if that continues change to 90 and see if that stops it. Thanks so much for the help. please let me know if this continues to work.

  • hi Aiden. Yo

    u can adjust the DRI on the CSW base directly or else use the Fanalab software. Its easier on Fanalab and Fanalab has a heap of other benefits too. So far so good for me - the issue has not returneds

  • tried this and im still getting the problem. its less noticeable as in when it goes it feels like i still have full control but i get a little jolt in the wheel. starting to really frustrate me

  • yep its annoying. Another thing to t.ry is to change USB connection. I read some people try this but also had a USB card to their PC. Something to do with power to the usb. ONe other option that comes with cost is that some people believe that the plastic quick release slips. There is a lock screw that comes with the wheel. Read up but you can screw that in and this may help (make sure to read up about this first). Lastly some ownerrs of that wheel have upgraded the quick release from the plastic to the metal clubsport QR adaptor BUT that is another $169 Australian Dollars (not sure where you are located. You should also get a support ticket in to Fanatec although they will likely just tell you to return so they can have a look at it.

  • yep wheel is still doing it tried turning down ffb, all sorts. even different usb sockets. Found it does it in a pattern for the first few times it does it. i,e same corner each lap did you get this? going to start a support ticket if it means im without a wheel so be it. cant be dealing with it just ruining my race each time.

  • yes whilst not 100% consistent I did note that it happened at very similar places on the circuit.

  • Exactly the same problem here. I have the CSW 2.5 with 402 firmware and the blue Formula V2 f1 rim. i did an Endurance race in iRacing last weekend, and after 1,5 hour it started to lose FFB for a second exactly at the straight in Hockenheim. not even in a corner. After 2 hours it became almost every lap and then i saw the Fanatec logo in the screen an it also lost steering and shifting briefly. The base was not hot and I have no idea what's going on.

    Anyone have an suggestions? I already disabled power saving and plugged it in another usb port (and root hub).

  • Same thing as me. Exactly this however it can happen on lap 1 for me now. I’ve contacted fanatec support and will update you with what they say. They asked me to take a video of it happening which I thought was ridiculous. How am I supposed to know when it’s going to randomly turn off.

  • I would refer to this topic with the included video. Mine is a Formula V2 PS4 rim, but the symptom is exactly the same:


  • Adrian WrightAdrian Wright Member
    edited May 2021

    I had issues last night and came across this thread.

    I seem to have exactly the same issue. Random and momentary loss of FFB, with no control of buttons and paddles and the display on the wheel goes off. Steering is unaffected, as are the pedals. everything usually returns to normal after a few seconds, but kept reoccurring every other lap or so. I had not been driving for more than a few laps before it started occurring, Initially on the same corner, then on others

    I'm using the GT3 wheel with a DD1 base. I tried both PC and CSW2.5 Compatibility modes. The rim has the upgraded QR

    It only seems to be with Assetto Corsa, and only with the Mclaren GT3 rim (after swapping to my BMW GT2, I had no issues). I've also tried different USB ports, which did not help.

  • I only race iracing and it happens there as well. Please make a ticket with Fanatec as did I. The common line here seems to be the Formula Rim (GT3 or V2) which seems to be the issue.

  • yeah seems loads of people have had it. and it seems the quick release seems to be at fault. fanatec told me to tighten the screws in my quick release but that didnt help sadly.

  • Fanatec responded very quickly with a few "stock" initial suggestions.

    The first set were hardware related.

    Remove the hub from the base (DD1) and check the connectors. Did that and everything seemed as it should. Probably not surprisingly, the wires were tightly twisted ( from rotation of the rim?). To get withdraw the wires I had to untwist the bundle which effectively lengthened the bundle. I wouldn't have thought this was the issue as there was still some give in the bundle of wires before I untwisted them. In any event, I have not had any issues with my other rims ( BMW GT2, Podium F1, Porsche GT3)

    Based on a comment here, I then checked the bolts on the QR (metal upgrade version) of the Rim. I was afraid to overtighten, but I did snug all of them up a little ( about a maximum of 1/4 turn on the large on the outside and the smaller ones around the pins inside the hub)

    The second set of suggestions were aimed at the software. Uninstalling drivers, resetting base, rim pedals etc, and reinstalling drivers and firmware. But I 'd already done that about 4 times over the past day or two and it hadn't helped. So I didn't bother at this time, and thought I'd try again if the hardware suggestions hadn't helped, which is what i expected

    I've just spent two hours driving ( on the same tracks, settings etc as when I had the issues), and no problem at all!

    I'll test again tomorrow for as many hours as I can ( what a chore :) )

    Given what I did, maybe there is a lose or fractured wire/connector in the hub? I can't believe snugging up already tight bolts would have done anything?

    We'll see.....

  • Unfortunately, I spoke too soon.

    within just a few laps of driving this morning, the wheel disconnected for about 4 minutes!

    I’ve tried resetting and renewing the drivers etc with no effect

    I’ve reported to Fanatec

  • fanatec are picking my wheel up tomorrow, rim and base. will let you know on the outcome of my rma. hopefully you get a good response out of them

  • OK.

    I emailed Fanatec to advise that their suggestions hadn’t work

    But later on the night of my last post, I thought I’d try something else. I managed to drive for about two hours without any issues until I had to go to bed

    The following morning Fanatec emailed to confirm they had arranged an RMA to their UK service centre....their service has been impressive.

    I explained that it again appeared to be working and they agreed that I could keep on testing and use the RMA when/if required.

    Last night I drove for 3 hours at Monaco as being an arduous circuit for the wheel (and me). I didn’t have any glitches.

    Haven’t had a chance to drive tonight, but will keep my fingers crossed that it is fixed.

    by the way, all I did was swap the USB port on the PC. As Fanatec said, a dodgy USB could have caused the issue, but they also said it would be surprising given that I didn’t have the same issues with my other rims.

    I will report again

  • Could be a bad connection as well. Removing the wheel and reattaching it could also be one of the magic fixes.

  • Fanatec recieved my wheel for rma. They found it to be the main cable within the wheel which talks to the wheelbase was at fault. They replaced it and now everything's good.

  • Good to know.

    The issues have started again for me, so mine is being RMA'd. Hopefully mine will be fixed as easily

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