CSL DD - Euro Truck Simulator 2 & American Truck Simulator

What are your recommended or preferred settings (for 8nm)?



  • My ETS2 & ATS ffb settings. CSL DD - 8NM "High Power Power Pack".

  • Just wanted to say thanks for posting this. Tried it out tonight in ATS, and it feels great with my 5nm base too! 👍

  • I think things feel pretty good while driving, but I'd like to try and convey some more "weight" through the wheel when the truck is stationary so that it resists turning a bit more. Any ideas on what I should start tinkering with?

  • Hi I am new here in this forum! How can I open this file with settings you are posted? If I click the link says the page can not found?

  • Hmm yeah looks like the links got hosed, maybe from a forum update.

    That's why I hate the UI for adjusting FFB in ATS... sliders with no numbers and no discernable "notches"... makes it impossible to share settings without taking a screen grab.

    I'll see if maybe I can post my own settings later tonight. They're not *perfect*, but I think they mostly feel pretty decent.

  • CSL DD (5Nm) + McLaren GT3 v2 wheel:

    Wheel Settings (PC Mode)

    SEN 900

    FF 100

    FFS Peak

    NDP 50

    NFR 50

    NIN 25

    INT 6

    FEI 50

    FOR 120

    SPR 120

    DPR 50

    BLI User Preference

    MPS Auto

    In-game settings:

    I don't by any means claim these to be the ultimate settings, as a lot of it was just trial and error. Others may hate how this feels. But I feel like it's good enough to get what I expect from the game. Steering feels suitably heavy when the truck is stationary or moving slowly, and lightens up with speed. There's a decent amount of road feel without being too noisy. One thing to note: if you drive very much on unpaved (non-tarmac) roads, you may find that the feedback is a bit violent unless you slow right down to a crawl. I may at some point see if I can dial that down a bit without messing anything else up, but it doesn't bother me enough to want to mess with it atm.

  • Aaaaaand the devs went and completely changed the FFB with the version 1.42 update today! lol

    Guess I'll be revisiting this tonight. Will repost new settings once I come up with something I like.

  • That’s great. I want to wait for yours feedback

  • Well, I tried out the new FFB model with the 1.42 update, and...I'm a bit underwhelmed, tbh. It's apparently now using a proper physics-based model as opposed to previously where, if I understand correctly, everything had been a mixture of canned effects and simply increasing wheel resistance the further you turned from center.

    The new model is a step in the right direction I feel, for sure, but it's not quite the step up I had hoped it would be. My biggest issue is that there seems to be a sort of dead zone approximately 5 to 10 degrees to each side of center. It's not actually dead, as the wheel does respond, but it's as if the damping within that range of movement is very very low. So you'll be driving straight down the road, and if you turn the wheel slightly one way or the other, there's very little resistance, and then beyond that 5-10 degree range, you can feel that the damping of the wheel all of a sudden will ramp right up...almost like what you might feel when hitting soft lock though not as intense.

    I'm open to the possibility that it could be my inability to dial in the proper settings to counteract this issue, but I'm thinking that may not be the case, as I've seen several comments on the developers' blog and forums stating similar issues, among users of various different wheels, so it's not just a Fanatec thing or a CSL DD thing.

    Anyway, all that being said, this is what I've come up with so far. It's definitely playable, and I think it feels reasonably good. YMMV, of course:

    CSL DD (5Nm) + McLaren GT3 v2 wheel:

    Wheel Settings (PC Mode)

    SEN 900

    FF 100

    FFS Peak

    NDP 75

    NFR 50

    NIN 50

    INT 3

    FEI 80

    FOR 100

    SPR 100

    DPR 100

    BLI User Preference

    MPS Auto or ENC

    In-game settings (post 1.42 update):

    (It's nearly impossible to tell from this pic, but Engine Resonance is two tiny clicks up from the minimum value...which I think gives it just enough to be able to feel a nice subtle rumble when the engine is under load. This slider is VERY sensitive. Go much beyond where it is now and it'll feel like your whole truck is going to shake apart!)

  • Thank you very much for your effort

  • No problem at all! If these settings work for you, or if you make changes that you like better, please do post them here. 👍

  • The links do not appear to be working for me so I cannot see the settings you use for the 8nm. Could someone please share them again?

  • Hi Gregg

    I notice from your settings that you are not using higher sensitivity. One of my reasons for wanting a CSL DD is the option of using more truck like steering angles of 1800 modern trucks and 2520 for some of the American classics trucks I have. 1.42 does allow you to set higher sensitivity numbers, but I am not sure if this is just animation or taken from direct user wheel input. I have tied dialing in 1800 with my CSW v2.5 but you just see the on screen wheel turning at 2:1, very unrealistic imo.

    I have been searching everywhere to get some user feedback re how the CSL DD handles ATS and ETS2. I'm pleased that I have finally come across your post.

    Any comment would be most appriciated.

  • I didn't change the sensitivity slider at all... just didn't seem like something I needed to mess with. I chose 900 Degrees of Rotation mainly for two reasons. 1) because it seemed to line up with the in-game wheel animation, and 2) it allows a decent range of movement without being twitchy, but without requiring a whole lot of hand-over-hand steering, which isn't exactly easy given my choice of wheel (McLaren).

    Are you saying that when adjusting the sensitivity slider along with your wheel's DOR, the in-game steering wheel animation doesn't match up? Seems like it should. Too bad there's no option to turn off the in-game wheel.

  • The links toward the top of the thread are broken. They likely got wiped out from a recent forum update. Besides, those settings are for an older version of ATS with a completely different FFB model.

    If you're interested in using my settings, you'll want the ones that mention being after the 1.42 game update.

  • Hi Gregg,

    Thanks for getting back to me,

    I can't really say for sure what happens when you adjust steering angle in Fanatec cp advanced settings, other than I saw on youtube a guy calbrating his CSL DD wheel in ATS after setting 1800 in Fanatec, his lock to lock in ATS calabration screen was 5 turns lock to lock, but that did not translate to the in game wheel. However, that was in 1.41 which lacked the range of sensitivity adjustment.

    There is a way to remove in game wheel, are you familiar with the console option in game accessed via the tilda key?

    If so open console and enter r_steering_wheel 0 Enter, then close console by pressing tilda key again. Entering r_steering_wheel 1 returns the wheel.

    I kinda like seeing my Scania wheel, or my classic Mack, Kenworth and Freightliner wheel. I have the BWM GT2 V2 wheel, using the McLaren wheel I can understand why you are sticking with 900.

    Are you in the UK Gregg, if so how did you order work out post Brexit?

  • Oh ok, thanks for the tip regarding hiding the wheel. I'll have to check that out. I know what you mean though, I do kind of like seeing my wheel in game (most racing games I don't though), but it would be nice to have the option.

    I'm sure there must be some kind of .json or .ini file that contains the actual numerical values for FFB settings, I just haven't had time to sit down and figure out where it actually might be. That should make tweaking settings a bit more sensible than clicking on stupid sliders and hoping for the best.

    I'm in the US btw. Somehow I got lucky and received my CSL DD around about the last week in August. Ordered in wave 2, as soon as orders went live. Super happy with it so far. 👍

  • I see that you have opted for the std PSU, I was contemplating getting the 180W PSU. Since I now only drive in ATS, ETS2 and occasionally Assetto Corsa (big fan of the mod maps LA Canyons, and the newly released California Coastal Highway.) I am wondering if the 5nm will give me all I need.

    I used to race in Assetto Corsa Competizioni but arthritis in my wrists after an injury makes racing really painful.

    I think you may find the settings answers in your profile folder American Truck Simulator-Steam Profiles (1.42*&^&)-(your profile number)-controls.sii there are several values. Lines 41 - 52 seem to refer to "FF" which I asume is force feedback.

    Anyway I have enough info to feel confident in placing my order for the CSL DD, whether I decide on the Boost pack I still don't know.

    Just hoping that I get a good price for my CSW Wheelbase and Formula V2 wheel that I no longer use.

  • Gregg DomainGregg Domain Member
    edited October 2021

    Cheers for the heads up on where to look for those files, I'll have to sit down and dig through it maybe tomorrow or the next day.

    I think whatever you decide for the power supply, you'll be pleased. I thought about the boost kit, but being that my rig is not particularly robust (wheelbase is mounted to a simple Fanatec wheel stand that I bought about 10 years ago), I was a bit worried about having too much resistance and fighting with it and having the whole thing topple over, especially making quick actions and corrections in say DR2.0 for example.

    I think down the road a few years if I am able to upgrade to a "proper" rig, I'll probably look into the boost kit. But until that time, I'm very happy with what I've got.

    (Btw +1 for those LA Canyon and PCH Assetto Corsa mods! I used to live in LA for about 8 years, so discovering them a few weeks ago has been really enjoyable and has brought back lots of good memories! 😎👍)

    [Edit] Also, I think you shouldn't have any trouble whatsoever offloading your old kit on eBay or the like. I've taken a peek a few times over the past few months and most things like CSL Elites or CSW 2.5 are selling either at or usually well above what they were sold for when new. Good luck!

  • "[Edit] Also, I think you shouldn't have any trouble whatsoever offloading your old kit on eBay or the like. I've taken a peek a few times over the past few months and most things like CSL Elites or CSW 2.5 are selling either at or usually well above what they were sold for when new. Good luck!"

    Sadly this is not the case in the UK. CSW Wheel bases are making 50-60% at the moment on eBay. I don't need to sell the CSW + Wheel to change the gear so I will bide my time when selling.

  • I just posted this over on the SCS Soft forums, copy/pasted here for posterity:

    [quote=R0adrunner post_id=1623570 time=1635321549 user_id=133969]

    IMO the revisited FF is otherwise OK (not perfect, but usable and in many ways better than the old one) except for the extremely annoying near-center deadzone/wobble and sudden grip of FF where the deadzone ends. Especially noteable on highway speeds in long left or right sweeps, where the wheel is kept at or near the critical point where this behavior occurs. Very unrealistic and personally ruins the driving experience.


    I feel much the same, and have complained about what seem to be the exact same issues you're having. One thing that I've found that helps is setting the Steering Sensitivity slider to maximum. Don't ask me why, I know...it sounds totally counterintuitive, but it does seem to reduce the feeling of that center "almost-dead zone". It's almost like it takes that zone, and instead of the obvious areas just off-center where you bump up against the feel of the damping increasing, it's like those bumps get smoothed and spread out over a larger range. I feel like they're still there, but they're a lot less obvious. As far as non-linearity or degrees of rotation, this slider has no effect. In fact, I'm not really sure what it does (or is supposed to do), other than making that center zone feel actually tolerable now.

    FWIW, if anyone's interested, I'm using a Fanatec CSL DD with a McLaren GT3 v2 wheel, with the following settings on the wheel itself:

    SEN 900

    FF 100


    NDP 85

    NFR 50


    INT 6

    FEI 70

    FOR 100

    SPR 100

    DPR 100

    BLI (user preference)

    In-game settings from my controls.ssi file:

    [code]config_lines[42]: "constant c_ff_gain 9.000000"

     config_lines[43]: "constant c_ff_hi_spd 1.000000"

     config_lines[44]: "constant c_ff_lo_spd 0.000000"

     config_lines[45]: "constant c_ff_fricton 0.750000"

     config_lines[46]: "constant c_ff_engine 0.020000"

     config_lines[47]: "constant c_ff_surface 0.200000"

     config_lines[48]: "constant c_ff_bumps 0.750000"

     config_lines[49]: "constant c_ff_collis 0.500000"[/code]

    I feel like this has a good amount of weight in the steering without feeling overly boosted. There's a reasonably strong desire to return to center, but it will do so fairly gradually once you release the wheel, instead of whipping back to zero as it's prone to doing with default settings. I'm still not 100% happy with it, but I've been changing settings so much these past few days, and this is the first time I've actually felt content to do a couple 1000+ mile jobs without changing anything, so I think I'll stick with these for now.

  • Hi Gregg

    Thanks for the settings update. I have saved them into my Fanatec Folder for when my CLS DD arrives. It wiil be interesting to see how they work out using 1800 steering angle.

  • Regretfully, they may or may not work for you. Apparently SCS released a small patch yesterday or the day before, and everything feels different now (again)! 🤬

    I'm trying to work out some settings to get things feeling decent again, but I'm not having a whole lot of success. Will have to spend some more time with it this weekend. Honestly, at this point, I wish they'd have just left things alone. I feel like FFB was fine for what it was before 1.42. Now it's all over the place, and I feel like I don't know what to expect whenever I launch the game. Hopefully SCS will chill out with the updates now and at least give us some time to get settled before they go changing things again.

    Oh also...not sure if you're aware, but when messing around with settings, I came across a slider in Gameplay Settings which apparently allows you to set the degrees of rotation for the wheel animation. I had never seen that before. So if you're looking to go higher than 900, that may be of interest to you.

  • "Oh also...not sure if you're aware, but when messing around with settings, I came across a slider in Gameplay Settings which apparently allows you to set the degrees of rotation for the wheel animation. I had never seen that before. So if you're looking to go higher than 900, that may be of interest to you."

    I had seen this in the 1.42 beta info. From what I have seen in game it is an animation of whatever degress you set the slider too, but the screen wheel turns at X 2 for a setting of 1800 when using 900 on your wheel. Can't see the point!

  • Hmm. I don't know, I only saw it briefly and didn't mess with it, but it looked like it would accept actual typed numerical input for your desired DoR. In theory, I'd assume that you could type 1800 there as well as setting your wheelbase to 1800, and the in-game animation *should* match up...? 🤔

    I'll have to play around with it some this weekend and see if I can figure out how it all works.

  • I can confirm that if you set SEN to 1800 on the Wheel Base and also change the slider to 1800 InGame, the virtual steering wheel moves in sync with the physical steering wheel. So the feeling is definitely more authentic compared to the value of 900. Provided you have a round steering wheel and e.g. no McLaren or F1 wheel 😁

    I had already considered buying a Nascar steering wheel with a larger diameter 🤫😅

  • Yip ToYip To Member
    edited December 2021

    I very happy to see there's a thread about ETS2/ATS here in the forums. Let's keep this going and hopefully someday Fanatec will also provide their recommended settings for their wheelbases for these games!

    In 1.42 (after the big FFB overhaul in ETS2/ATS) I use these settings with my CSL DD with boost kit and R330 wheel:

    • CSL DD in CSW 2.5 comp. mode
    • SEN 1800
    • FF 100%
    • FFS Peak
    • NDP 15%
    • NFR off
    • NIN off
    • INT 4
    • FEI 100
    • FOR / SPR / DPR 100%

    In-game / in the controls.sii file:

    config_lines[41]: "constant c_ff_enabled 1.000000"

     config_lines[42]: "constant c_ff_gain 7.500000"

     config_lines[43]: "constant c_ff_hi_spd 1.000000"

     config_lines[44]: "constant c_ff_lo_spd 0.500000"

     config_lines[45]: "constant c_ff_fricton 0.750000"

     config_lines[46]: "constant c_ff_engine 0.000000"

     config_lines[47]: "constant c_ff_surface 0.200000"

     config_lines[48]: "constant c_ff_bumps 1.000000"

     config_lines[49]: "constant c_ff_collis 1.000000"

     config_lines[50]: "constant c_vff_surfac 1.000000"

     config_lines[51]: "constant c_vff_bumps 1.000000"

     config_lines[52]: "constant c_vff_collis 1.0000000"

    And also 1800 rotation animation for the wheel, so it is in sync with my R330 wheel.

    The FFB is comfortable for me with these setting. The wheel does feel a bit lose and having a deadzone around the middle, but somehow I cannot manage to get rid of it. Seems like a 'problem' in the FFB-engine of the game itself.

  • Gregg DomainGregg Domain Member
    edited December 2021

    If you haven't already, try setting your slider for steering sensitivity to maximum. I've found it helps reduce the feeling of that center "almost dead" zone, without adversely affecting anything else.

    (I also just remembered that I've tweaked my settings a bit since what I last posted for 1.42... I'll try and get around to sharing them here later today. Hopefully someone will find them useful.)

  • Yes, I've already set the sensitivity to max (and the non-linearity to min). This was actually already my preset before 1.42.

    I find that this 'deadzone' is more pronounced on higher speeds. While not perfect, I do like the new FFB better. Especially when stationary and turning the wheel, you can really feel that you need to overcome the principle resistance of the tyres with the ground to get it to go.

    Let's see if the upcoming 1.43 update will bring improvements.

  • Gregg DomainGregg Domain Member
    edited December 2021

    Here's what I'm currently running for ATS (I don't own ETS2) on my CSL DD 5Nm with McLaren GT3 v2 wheel:

    PC Mode

    SEN 900 (any higher is a total chore with a non-round wheel)

    FFB 100


    NDP 35

    NFR 25

    NIN 20

    INT 4

    FEI 50

    FOR/SPR/DPR 100

    From controls.sii:

    config_lines[41]: "constant c_ff_enabled 1.000000"

     config_lines[42]: "constant c_ff_gain 9.000000"

     config_lines[43]: "constant c_ff_hi_spd 1.000000"

     config_lines[44]: "constant c_ff_lo_spd 0.240000"

     config_lines[45]: "constant c_ff_fricton 0.750000"

     config_lines[46]: "constant c_ff_engine 0.010000"

     config_lines[47]: "constant c_ff_surface 0.200000"

     config_lines[48]: "constant c_ff_bumps 0.750000"

     config_lines[49]: "constant c_ff_collis 0.500000"

    This is about as good as I'm able to get things. That center dead zone is still kinda there, but it's not nearly as awful as the default settings. The slight engine rumble is kind of a cheat to trick my mind into thinking I'm getting subtle vibrations from the road (if we ever get real road surface feedback, I'll be amazed, considering the scope of the game). Now we just kick back and wait for the next update to totally break our settings again...😉🙄

    Oh and no real reason for PC mode. ATS was one of the first games I played once I got my CSL DD and I didn't really know when to use PC vs CMP, so I just went with the default and everything seemed to work fine. Haven't seen any real reason to change it since.

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