My QR1 Lite that came with my McLaren GT3 V3 has the same exact click-clack issue as described here. Fanatec will want a video produced for the issue to RMA the part but I feel this won't likely be possible to video as the issue is slight and only occurs under stress on my CSL DD if turned up to 75% force levels or higher. If I run it at 70% it is not noticeable at all. There is a low to medium level click-clack feel that occurs only during medium stressful driving and I doubt it is something that can be heard or caught on video. For instance if I set my force to 75% it is low-medium noticeable, if I set to 85% it is even more noticeable of a click-clack, so medium to high, at the same point in turning the wheel in corners. For a track such as Laguna Seca in a GT3 car in AMS2, with my CSL DD at 75% force the problem occurs 6 times per lap, never in a slow speed corner such as the last left turn that leads to the straight. I don't want to jeopardize my CSL DD or McLaren warranty by using a DIY method on the QR1 Lite if at all possible. I have tested my friends McLaren GT3 that he bought new from Fanatec in November 2021 and it tightens further than my QR1 Lite on my CSL DD shaft, which I suspect fixed the issue and it has zero issues with my base and my McLaren GT3 V2 wheel so I know that the issue is with the design of my QR1 Lite versus my friends newer one; this is a design issue and not an issue in QA'ing the part.
Note: The issue was only barely felt when using the same QR1 Lite on my McLaren GT3 V2 on my CSL DD with the standard 5nm power supply running at 85% force level, but with the 8nm power supply (Boost Kit 180) I can only run the force at 70% max before the issue is noticed.
I want Fanatec to fix or replace my QR1 Lite so that I get the revised model that doesn't click-clack. Any suggestions on how to handle the RMA? Do they always send you back the revised version that can tighten more or has fixed this in every case at this point in December 2021. I know that they have to be aware that this was a design flaw.
Thank you for the reply. We have tested many cases with the same behavior and it turned out that the same happens with QR1 Lights and there is nothing we can do to reduce the play.We still can offer you to send the products to our workshop for inspection, but as I said, this is normal behavior and we can not solve it.If you want, we can offer you a 30 % discount on the quick release adapter. This the best way to fix your wheel on the wheelbase. Please, let us know if you want to accept this offer, then we directly will initiate the further procedure.Best regards / Freundliche Grüße
Fareed
(Fanatec Support Team)
NO realy NO, it's a manufacturing flaw that many complain about, they've already taken some back, and always the same. QR1 lite does not hold. it's not my fault, but fanatec's fault in the mold or something, no idea. I don't accept, pay extra if you want it solved, I'll give you a discount if you pay yourself. FANATEC no. then put on your website, qr1 lite = to lite, don't whine about it,
I just bought products for 1000 euros, and thought quality at fanatec. on every part. if it's too weak, they have to recall them all. is so with pc, cars, electrical, ........... every product.
it's not normal if they are too lite on all that it's not a fault
I have the CSL DD and the Porsche 918 RSR wheel. Had no issues with the CSL Elite wheelbase, but I'm getting the clicks with the DD wheelbase, which I've only had for a bit over a week. It's only doing it sporadically now, so I'll wait and see if it gets worse.
Reminds me of the bad pots in the CSL Elite pedals... engineered to fail.
I am having the same issue with the 5nm. I bought the metal qr1 and the click-clack sound still there. I am so frustrated after spending over $750 and having an issue that I didn’t encounter with my previous beloved cheaper G29 wheel that I mistakenly thought I am upgrading from. Any permanent solution yet from Fanatec?
Comments
Thank you for clarifying the issue and how to fix it temporary.
I experience the same issue, have done from day one with 5Nm.
I hope Fanatec does something about it. It's expensive equipment as is.
I'll try the tapemod.
My QR1 Lite that came with my McLaren GT3 V3 has the same exact click-clack issue as described here. Fanatec will want a video produced for the issue to RMA the part but I feel this won't likely be possible to video as the issue is slight and only occurs under stress on my CSL DD if turned up to 75% force levels or higher. If I run it at 70% it is not noticeable at all. There is a low to medium level click-clack feel that occurs only during medium stressful driving and I doubt it is something that can be heard or caught on video. For instance if I set my force to 75% it is low-medium noticeable, if I set to 85% it is even more noticeable of a click-clack, so medium to high, at the same point in turning the wheel in corners. For a track such as Laguna Seca in a GT3 car in AMS2, with my CSL DD at 75% force the problem occurs 6 times per lap, never in a slow speed corner such as the last left turn that leads to the straight. I don't want to jeopardize my CSL DD or McLaren warranty by using a DIY method on the QR1 Lite if at all possible. I have tested my friends McLaren GT3 that he bought new from Fanatec in November 2021 and it tightens further than my QR1 Lite on my CSL DD shaft, which I suspect fixed the issue and it has zero issues with my base and my McLaren GT3 V2 wheel so I know that the issue is with the design of my QR1 Lite versus my friends newer one; this is a design issue and not an issue in QA'ing the part.
Note: The issue was only barely felt when using the same QR1 Lite on my McLaren GT3 V2 on my CSL DD with the standard 5nm power supply running at 85% force level, but with the 8nm power supply (Boost Kit 180) I can only run the force at 70% max before the issue is noticed.
I want Fanatec to fix or replace my QR1 Lite so that I get the revised model that doesn't click-clack. Any suggestions on how to handle the RMA? Do they always send you back the revised version that can tighten more or has fixed this in every case at this point in December 2021. I know that they have to be aware that this was a design flaw.
Same over here, from fanatec
Hello Carlo,
Thank you for the reply. We have tested many cases with the same behavior and it turned out that the same happens with QR1 Lights and there is nothing we can do to reduce the play.We still can offer you to send the products to our workshop for inspection, but as I said, this is normal behavior and we can not solve it.If you want, we can offer you a 30 % discount on the quick release adapter. This the best way to fix your wheel on the wheelbase. Please, let us know if you want to accept this offer, then we directly will initiate the further procedure.Best regards / Freundliche Grüße
Fareed
(Fanatec Support Team)
NO realy NO, it's a manufacturing flaw that many complain about, they've already taken some back, and always the same. QR1 lite does not hold. it's not my fault, but fanatec's fault in the mold or something, no idea. I don't accept, pay extra if you want it solved, I'll give you a discount if you pay yourself. FANATEC no. then put on your website, qr1 lite = to lite, don't whine about it,
I just bought products for 1000 euros, and thought quality at fanatec. on every part. if it's too weak, they have to recall them all. is so with pc, cars, electrical, ........... every product.
it's not normal if they are too lite on all that it's not a fault
I have the CSL DD and the Porsche 918 RSR wheel. Had no issues with the CSL Elite wheelbase, but I'm getting the clicks with the DD wheelbase, which I've only had for a bit over a week. It's only doing it sporadically now, so I'll wait and see if it gets worse.
Reminds me of the bad pots in the CSL Elite pedals... engineered to fail.
I've got this exact same problem
I am having the same issue with the 5nm. I bought the metal qr1 and the click-clack sound still there. I am so frustrated after spending over $750 and having an issue that I didn’t encounter with my previous beloved cheaper G29 wheel that I mistakenly thought I am upgrading from. Any permanent solution yet from Fanatec?