WRC10 Settings

Hi Everyone!

Just throwing ideas out there after my first attempt at playing WRC 10 on a CSW2.5, and XBOX Series X. I've got a classic V2 wheel on (350mm dia) so worth considering if the settings below are too heavy for anyone on a smaller wheel; you'll just need to drop the FF a little bit.

I found the base settings (named 'Fanatec Racing Wheel' in the game) to be horrible, pretty much broken. it nearly shook my seat apart with the over cooked vibrations that just seem like simple 'buzzing', that increase with vehicle speed, engine revs and tyre slip. It can be fixed though, so I wouldn't recommend racing off to refund the game straight away!

So after an hour or two of playing I came up with the following settings:


WRC GAME: Max Wheel Angle 540 (default), Force and Effects all 100 (the default), Overall Vibration <10 to taste (currently at 5 for me), with all sub-elements of vibration left at 100.

This resulted in a nice smooth drivable car, without the horrible noise/vibration but still a little bit of something/road noise in the background. Admittedly I haven't looked into the details of which vibration sub-elements would be more useful than others yet, and this will be my next step.

Given how new the game is, and some reports of people returning it already, I hope this helps. Also would be very interested to see if anyone else has some recommendations to improve it.


  • good afternoon ! I would like to comment on my experience with wrc games. i have a fanatec podium dd1 steering wheel and i play on ps5. the ffb of the game with fanatec steering wheel is horrible (but something can be fixed) Before I had a csl elite and in compatibility mode purple color in the game I recognized as a logitech steering wheel and the ffb was great. but in the dd1 steering wheel you can't put purple compatibility mode and here comes my problem. in the vibration test the steering wheel only turns to the left. and in the game when going from 90 degrees of steering wheel the ffb is lost completely after a long time of testing ... my conclusion is as follows: sen 54 ffb 60 lin off fei 40 spr 100 dpr off (is one of the problems) in the game: 540 saturation 60 on left and right. vibration at 0 and tire slip at 0. everything else 100 sorry for my English

  • Thanks for the additional information Juan Manuel, looks like you've ended up at a similar point; in that the vibration should be pretty much off.

    I also found in subsequent fiddling, that the sensitivity (wheel rotation) in the game is a bit broken as well. The value set by the game seems to result in somewhat less rotation on my wheel than intended. The solution for me was set the game to 1080, and then use the wheel setting to choose the rotation desired. It works for me, and the game test menu indicates the correct left/right range for any wheel SEN setting.

  • WRC 10 seems to use the FFB channels not like other games so it's not so easy to find suitable settings. From experience with WRC 9 and re-checked with WRC 10 there are a few things to know.

    I use a DD2 with BME, APM and a round wheel (so it a little heavier as the Porsche wheel).

    WRC uses all channels the normal FOR but also SPR and DPR so all have to be enabled and you can dial it to your liking.

    *** WRC 10 Force & Effects

    Self Aligning Torque (SAT): SAT is the main force when the tyre loads up but in WRC this force need a significant load to feel it. So on straights there is nearly nothing to feel.

    Tyre Load: It should be the steering weight (description) but we get shock forces like jumps, bumps etc.

    Self Center: This is a little tricky it interacts with SAT and Tyre load. It primarily tries to return the wheel to center and supports SAT by adding a natural weight to the wheel. It's a important force to let us feel the grip.

    It seems also that it's best to have the in game settings at default as they are depending on each other internally. 

    --> Overall Force 100 / Self Aligning Torque 100 / Tyre Load 100 / Self Centre 100 / Recenter Force (in menue) I use 50

    *** WRC 10 Vibrations (most should be turned down or set to 0)

    Most vibrations will muddy and overwhelm the FFB with canned effects.

    Tyre Slip: This is mainly noise so dial it down this are canned effects if loosing grip. Interferes with grip feeling on gravel and snow.

    Suspension: The most important vibration to feel the surface. 

    Ground Surface: Completely useless set to 0

    Engine: Vibrations if you rev up the motor and if going into the red. So if you are mainly in over revving this is noise.

    Collision: If you bump into something.

    --> Overall Vibration 100 / Tyre Slip 10-30 / Suspension 50-80 / Ground Surface 0 / Engine 0-30 / Collision 50

    *** Overview of all settings:

    ** Fanatec DD 2 settings:

    SEN 540 (WRC has no support for auto)

    FF 60 (what you like)

    NDP 12 (some fixed damping)

    NFR 6 (some fixed wheel weight)

    NIN 3 (depends on your wheel if it's a light wheel up this to 6-10)

    INT 5 (WRC has a slow FFB signal)

    FEI 80 (to smooth out the vibration impulses from WRC)

    FOR 100 (change force with the FF setting)

    SPR 80 (SPR is mainly the Self Center setting in the game)

    DPR 60 (Damping from the game, not easy to find the right value)

    ** WRC 10 in game settings:

    Max Wheel Angle 540 (in sync with SEN)

    Overall Force 100

    Self Aligning Torque 100

    Tyre Load 100

    Self Centre 100

    Recenter Force 50

    Overall Vibration 100

    Tyre Slip 10-30

    Suspension 50-80

    Ground Surface 0

    Engine 0-30

    Collision 50

    Throttle Pedal 0 (I have no Fanatec pedals)

    Brake Pedal 0 (I have no Fanatec pedals)

  • Hi Jean,

    How does your wheel rotation/sensitivity result when you've got both wheel and game set to 540? I found the result was a lot less than 540 when using the game setting at 540, also putting the game to 720 resulted in more like 540 in reality, and game on 900 got nowhere near full lock on my CSW2.5. Tried all these with the wheel on AUT and 900, and some lower settings, and the only way to get the full rotation was game on 1080, and use the wheel SEN setting. I know this breaks the visuals, but everything else seems to work now.

    Also I tried suspension set to your numbers and it nearly shook my arms off (massive increasing 'canned' vibration with speed) even with a generally light wheel weight/FFB setting, so maybe some of these issues are an Xbox thing?

    If I were Fanatec I'd have a look at these games before release, as the Fanatec logo is plastered all over this game, even the loading ring is a steering wheel with Fanatec written across the middle, yet anyone who expects a half decent out-of-the-box setup will be scared away.

    Overall however, with settings all adjusted I'm thoroughly enjoying this game, probably as much as DR2 when in 4WD vehicles TBH, though WRC10 is horrible in the 2WD cars, they just don't have any inclination to spin out.

  • I can't get the game recognized by Fanalabs, so I've created a profile in DR2 for WRC10. Has anyone managed to have it show up as a game in Fanalabs?

  • It seems that the forum has a few bugs, after correcting a typo my answer was gone. So 2nd try with a shorter answer.

    First a update to my DD2 settings above:

    DPR to 70 for gravel and 80 for asphalt AND reduce NDP to 10, NFR to 5. You have to use the DRI setting for non DD wheels.

    INT from 5 to 6 as WRC has a slow rumbling effect while turning, maybe I've go to 7

    @Ben, for me 540 degree in game and wheel base is ok and at the settings screen it shows to go linear the whole way (left and right are two settings). Maybe you would try both settings at 480 degree to have a little lesser rotation on the wheel. Don't judge the rotation by the in game wheel as this is not synchronized. Also you have to set the rotation as a fixed value in the base as WRC does not support 'Auto'. I have the in game wheel disabled because it's distracting and as there is no VR it's enough to have my Wheel in front of me.

  • edited September 7

    Thank you so much for these settings! With a few tweaks maybe and it transformed my experience with DD1 in this game.

    540 degree in game and 540 in base works for me.

  • Hello Folks,

    thanks for posting Dude!

    I have tried this with my CSW 2.5 feels really good with few Tweaks.

    Fanatec CSW 2.5 settings:

    SEN 540

    FF 100

    DRI -1

    FEI 100

    FOR 100

    SPR 80

    DPR 70

    WRC 10 in game settings:

    Max Wheel Angle 540/540

    Overall Force 130

    Self Aligning Torque 100

    Tyre Load 100

    Self Centre 100

    Recenter Force 50

    Overall Vibration 100

    Tyre Slip 35

    Suspension 85

    Ground Surface 25

    Engine 35

    Collision 50

    Throttle Pedal 0 ( cuz BJ Simracing Pedals )

    Brake Pedal 0

  • edited September 16

    Haha, Fanatec offers an WRC steering wheel and the game settings are somewhere in a subcategory. Nothing official from Fanatec here? The game is not even supported by FanaLab?

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