Just throwing ideas out there after my first attempt at playing WRC 10 on a CSW2.5, and XBOX Series X. I've got a classic V2 wheel on (350mm dia) so worth considering if the settings below are too heavy for anyone on a smaller wheel; you'll just need to drop the FF a little bit.
I found the base settings (named 'Fanatec Racing Wheel' in the game) to be horrible, pretty much broken. it nearly shook my seat apart with the over cooked vibrations that just seem like simple 'buzzing', that increase with vehicle speed, engine revs and tyre slip. It can be fixed though, so I wouldn't recommend racing off to refund the game straight away!
So after an hour or two of playing I came up with the following settings:
CSW2.5 WHEELBASE: SEN 900, FF 65, DRI OFF, FEI 50.
WRC GAME: Max Wheel Angle 540 (default), Force and Effects all 100 (the default), Overall Vibration <10 to taste (currently at 5 for me), with all sub-elements of vibration left at 100.
This resulted in a nice smooth drivable car, without the horrible noise/vibration but still a little bit of something/road noise in the background. Admittedly I haven't looked into the details of which vibration sub-elements would be more useful than others yet, and this will be my next step.
Given how new the game is, and some reports of people returning it already, I hope this helps. Also would be very interested to see if anyone else has some recommendations to improve it.
good afternoon ! I would like to comment on my experience with wrc games. i have a fanatec podium dd1 steering wheel and i play on ps5. the ffb of the game with fanatec steering wheel is horrible (but something can be fixed) Before I had a csl elite and in compatibility mode purple color in the game I recognized as a logitech steering wheel and the ffb was great. but in the dd1 steering wheel you can't put purple compatibility mode and here comes my problem. in the vibration test the steering wheel only turns to the left. and in the game when going from 90 degrees of steering wheel the ffb is lost completely after a long time of testing ... my conclusion is as follows: sen 54 ffb 60 lin off fei 40 spr 100 dpr off (is one of the problems) in the game: 540 saturation 60 on left and right. vibration at 0 and tire slip at 0. everything else 100 sorry for my English
Thanks for the additional information Juan Manuel, looks like you've ended up at a similar point; in that the vibration should be pretty much off.
I also found in subsequent fiddling, that the sensitivity (wheel rotation) in the game is a bit broken as well. The value set by the game seems to result in somewhat less rotation on my wheel than intended. The solution for me was set the game to 1080, and then use the wheel setting to choose the rotation desired. It works for me, and the game test menu indicates the correct left/right range for any wheel SEN setting.
WRC 10 seems to use the FFB channels not like other games so it's not so easy to find suitable settings. From experience with WRC 9 and re-checked with WRC 10 there are a few things to know.
I use a DD2 with BME, APM and a round wheel (so it a little heavier as the Porsche wheel).
WRC uses all channels the normal FOR but also SPR and DPR so all have to be enabled and you can dial it to your liking.
*** WRC 10 Force & Effects
Self Aligning Torque (SAT): SAT is the main force when the tyre loads up but in WRC this force need a significant load to feel it. So on straights there is nearly nothing to feel.
Tyre Load: It should be the steering weight (description) but we get shock forces like jumps, bumps etc.
Self Center: This is a little tricky it interacts with SAT and Tyre load. It primarily tries to return the wheel to center and supports SAT by adding a natural weight to the wheel. It's a important force to let us feel the grip.
It seems also that it's best to have the in game settings at default as they are depending on each other internally.
--> Overall Force 100 / Self Aligning Torque 100 / Tyre Load 100 / Self Centre 100 / Recenter Force (in menue) I use 50
*** WRC 10 Vibrations (most should be turned down or set to 0)
Most vibrations will muddy and overwhelm the FFB with canned effects.
Tyre Slip: This is mainly noise so dial it down this are canned effects if loosing grip. Interferes with grip feeling on gravel and snow.
Suspension: The most important vibration to feel the surface.
Ground Surface: Completely useless set to 0
Engine: Vibrations if you rev up the motor and if going into the red. So if you are mainly in over revving this is noise.
Collision: If you bump into something.
--> Overall Vibration 100 / Tyre Slip 10-30 / Suspension 50-80 / Ground Surface 0 / Engine 0-30 / Collision 50
*** Overview of all settings:
** Fanatec DD 2 settings:
SEN 540 (WRC has no support for auto)
FF 60 (what you like)
NDP 12 (some fixed damping)
NFR 6 (some fixed wheel weight)
NIN 3 (depends on your wheel if it's a light wheel up this to 6-10)
INT 5 (WRC has a slow FFB signal)
FEI 80 (to smooth out the vibration impulses from WRC)
FOR 100 (change force with the FF setting)
SPR 80 (SPR is mainly the Self Center setting in the game)
DPR 60 (Damping from the game, not easy to find the right value)
** WRC 10 in game settings:
Max Wheel Angle 540 (in sync with SEN)
Overall Force 100
Self Aligning Torque 100
Tyre Load 100
Self Centre 100
Recenter Force 50
Overall Vibration 100
Tyre Slip 10-30
Ground Surface 0
Throttle Pedal 0 (I have no Fanatec pedals)
Brake Pedal 0 (I have no Fanatec pedals)
How does your wheel rotation/sensitivity result when you've got both wheel and game set to 540? I found the result was a lot less than 540 when using the game setting at 540, also putting the game to 720 resulted in more like 540 in reality, and game on 900 got nowhere near full lock on my CSW2.5. Tried all these with the wheel on AUT and 900, and some lower settings, and the only way to get the full rotation was game on 1080, and use the wheel SEN setting. I know this breaks the visuals, but everything else seems to work now.
Also I tried suspension set to your numbers and it nearly shook my arms off (massive increasing 'canned' vibration with speed) even with a generally light wheel weight/FFB setting, so maybe some of these issues are an Xbox thing?
If I were Fanatec I'd have a look at these games before release, as the Fanatec logo is plastered all over this game, even the loading ring is a steering wheel with Fanatec written across the middle, yet anyone who expects a half decent out-of-the-box setup will be scared away.
Overall however, with settings all adjusted I'm thoroughly enjoying this game, probably as much as DR2 when in 4WD vehicles TBH, though WRC10 is horrible in the 2WD cars, they just don't have any inclination to spin out.
I can't get the game recognized by Fanalabs, so I've created a profile in DR2 for WRC10. Has anyone managed to have it show up as a game in Fanalabs?
It seems that the forum has a few bugs, after correcting a typo my answer was gone. So 2nd try with a shorter answer.
First a update to my DD2 settings above:
DPR to 70 for gravel and 80 for asphalt AND reduce NDP to 10, NFR to 5. You have to use the DRI setting for non DD wheels.
INT from 5 to 6 as WRC has a slow rumbling effect while turning, maybe I've go to 7
@Ben, for me 540 degree in game and wheel base is ok and at the settings screen it shows to go linear the whole way (left and right are two settings). Maybe you would try both settings at 480 degree to have a little lesser rotation on the wheel. Don't judge the rotation by the in game wheel as this is not synchronized. Also you have to set the rotation as a fixed value in the base as WRC does not support 'Auto'. I have the in game wheel disabled because it's distracting and as there is no VR it's enough to have my Wheel in front of me.
Thank you so much for these settings! With a few tweaks maybe and it transformed my experience with DD1 in this game.
540 degree in game and 540 in base works for me.
thanks for posting Dude!
I have tried this with my CSW 2.5 feels really good with few Tweaks.
Fanatec CSW 2.5 settings:
WRC 10 in game settings:
Max Wheel Angle 540/540
Overall Force 130
Self Aligning Torque 100
Tyre Load 100
Self Centre 100
Recenter Force 50
Overall Vibration 100
Tyre Slip 35
Ground Surface 25
Throttle Pedal 0 ( cuz BJ Simracing Pedals )
Brake Pedal 0
Haha, Fanatec offers an WRC steering wheel and the game settings are somewhere in a subcategory. Nothing official from Fanatec here? The game is not even supported by FanaLab?
It was the same with WRC 9. I think it is very strange, it should be easy for them to give us the correct settings!!
can someone tell me how I can use my DD2 with Pedals V3 in WRC10?
Everything is displayed in the game, but no function of the DD2 or pedals.
Everything works great in Dirt Rally 2.0 and Forza Horizon, only not in WRC10.
Manual configuration in WRC also without success.
Greetings from Germany
Please for best settinhgs
Fanatec Base DD2 + Pedals V3 inverted + Shifter + Handbrake (playseat sensation pro ) ..
Imediately I updatet also all firmwares ...
Fanatec WRC CLS Elite Steering Wheel WRC XBOX/PC
Im useing latest XBOX X
It is strange that WRC10 have inside game all Fanatec comercials but I can not find settings for my Wheel ''Fanatec WRC CLS Elite Steering Wheel WRC'' any settings and also DD2 at this wheel shows me LOW TRQ ... no chance to set to HI TRQ and key evrithing is inside...
Please help me find best settings for my combination for those games ....
best regards and a lot of heath to all
I can't help you with settings, but I can tell you that the WRC wheel does not allow for high torque mode with any wheel base (DD1 or DD2).
Sorry to necro this, but I'm hoping someone can help.
I'm trying to play WRC 10 in CSW 2.5 compatibility mode on a CSL DD, but I feel like there's no FFB at all.
I've tried several different set ups from people, some that emphasize vibration, and the ones in this thread that minimize it. I definitely get the vibration effects but the wheel is incredibly light and i don't feel like I'm getting any of the "real" feedback at all. Has anyone experienced this?
I really like the featureset of the game and would like to play the career mode, but the FFB is completely non-existent and I'm at a loss.
Any help would be appreciated!
Me too man... that's crazy!
I can't find anything all around the internet
The only thing that gave it a bit more weigth on straight line is the NFR parameter upped to 50. I have the GT DD and the experience so far has been awful.
it would be great if someone could share his or her ingame FFB settings for WRC 10 (PS4). My wheel is the CSL Elite PS4 wheel base.
I am playing with a set composed of :
I tried WRC 7 which was purchased few months ago, it appears that the axis' are difficult to identify for the game. The pedals could be used while they are connected through their own USB cable. However, the handbrake remaining connected to the CSL DD is not ever seen from the game.
Do you know which version of WRC xx is compatible with my set ? Many thanks in advance for your answer.
For anyone reading this thread, considering it goes back to last Sep:
I've re-installed WRC10 after a break, and put my own settings back into the wheel, and checked the game setup to ensure settings were still there. Here's the kicker; for the same settings (the first post in this thread) I felt it was completely different FFB to what I had last year. Either there was a software update to WRC10 which included FFB changes (at least for Xbox Ser X), or something was wrong/buggy last time around for me. With my old settings the game feels completely dead and lacking feedback detail, so the opposite of my original experience and mirrors some more recent comments from others.
I'm now at default settings in-game (so didn't need to massively wind down the vibration that was shaking my rig apart previously), and I've just reduced the FEI a tad for taste (I don't much like wheel-buzzing at high speed). However now my main gripe is the wheel damping now seems non-existent, so I'm using DRI-1 to account for it and stop tank slappers. No idea if the this damping issue was present when I last played, could just be that I've played too much Horizon 5 lately... go easy, it's no sim but it's fun, and I think the FFB model is pretty damn good for off-road!
So in summary; the settings recommended in earlier posts might not be relevant any more.
Ben, I would like to thank you for your research. It has been most helpful. And to others in this thread who have contributed. I just moved from Logitech G923 to GT DD Pro and the FFB was pathetic. I tried Ben's first settings and was like "wait, what?". And then I saw your last post. For me on the GT DD Pro setting NDP to 1 and lowering tyre force in-game was an absolute game changer. It's wierd that it seems that tyre force and self centre seem to be opposite forces on the two wheels. On G923 I had tyre force high and self centre low. On the GT DD Pro I have tyre force (very) low and self centre (somewhat) high. However I am still missing that "direct drive feel" that I get in GT Sport.
It's clear to me that KT's relationship with Fanatec is contractual through WRC Promoter rather than a direct collaboration with Fanatec.
I use a DD1 with WRC 10 and these are my settings on PC
FFB: 70% (high torque mode)
Fanatec beta driver 436
Not sure about the comments for Auto on the wheel as it works fine for me and has done since WRC 8
In game I just reduce overall vibration to 30% and the wheel rotation to 200 , anything more and it feels very sluggish to me to control , all other in game settings I leave at default.
I have been using these settings since WRC 8 and I am generally in the top 10 on the weekly leaderboard.
Once you have been playing for a while , this setup feels very very good , I can feel the grip levels through the wheel , Mclaren GT3 V2.
I have a steering wheel wrc with a CSL DD all on XBOX Series X.
Do you have any recommended settings for wrc 10 for fanatec control panel and in game please ?
I am unable to map controls with my DD1 in WRC 10. Similar issue as this guy: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Auy16u4KBwc. I can only get it to work by enabling Comp v2.5 mode.
Are there any DD1 users out there who can get it to work without enabling Comp v2.5 mode?
Glad people have seen my Reddit post and have shared it here.
Is there a setting for 8Nm GT DD Pro?