Just an update from me after some testing last night.
I was testing using the Skyline GTR 32, SH tyres, around Deep Forest. For what was the GT7 daily race B. In game settings were: Torque:5, FFSens: 1. Fanatec recommended on wheel base.
And as stated before, there is just no road detail, no rumbling over kerbs. The only time you feel something, is when the car dramatically understeers, and you get a rumble in the wheel. Moving in game FFSens to 5 or 10, didnt really do anything for feedback detail. However, 5 felt better for "loading up". So I kept it on 5. I also played around with FEI, moving from 50-60-70. There was slightly more detail, but not significant.
I then decided to change cars and do the circuit experience, which uses the Audi R8 GT3 EVO. There was a bit more detail. Not a lot of road detail, but if you hit a kerb, you got the rumble effect.
I then moved to time trialling daily race C, which was Daytona, in the Toyota Supra GT500 - and things just came alive. A lot of track surface information coming through the wheel. It felt really good.
So my conclusion is, part of the "lack of feel and detail" that we are seeing with the CSL Elite Wheel base, could be due to how PD have modelled the cars physics, tyres, suspension etc. and what feedback is output to the wheel. Particularly road cars.
Maybe a DD wheel is sensitive enough to pick those signals up, and the CSL Elite wheel base isn't? Maybe they haven't put in a lot track surface info into Deep Forest, but they have for Daytona?
So I think track and car, is a significant factor on how much feedback/detail we receive with the CSL Elite Wheel base.
I too have been struggling to feel 100% dialed in to GT7 with the Fanatec CSL Elite wheelbase. I have fiddled with all the wheel base settings and in-game adjustments since launch. My main gripe is that I struggle to catch slides in RWD cars with Sport Soft tyres. Partly, this is due to the physics and tyre model being so different to GT Sport, but for the most part I think detail was missing from the feedback to inform me when the car was about to slide.
However, I now think the steering wheel ratio (Sensitivity setting in wheelbase) is simply too slow when left to AUTO. As a test I took a stock 911 GT3 (997) on SS tyres around Tsukuba. With Sens. set to AUTO it was difficult to catch any slides convincingly. I then reduced Sens to 800 and the difference was like night-v-day. This felt so much more natural and confidence inspiring to me. Maybe i need to refine the setting further, perhaps 900 (as AL notes above) might be the sweet spot. But give it a try. This might be a case of adjusting on a car by car basis.
Also a CSL Elite user here, I've also found the recommended settings to be pretty decent. Max Torque at 4 feels a little light and lifeless, 6 feels pretty good but sometimes a bit too twitchy, so I've stuck with 5. I've also messed with DRI at -1 and 0, which also feel pretty good, but seems to lose a little of the weight transfer feeling so I've left FEI at -2 for now.
I've noticed that curbs/bumps/general road feel is sometimes inconsistent, it seems like when the wheel is mostly straight, I don't get as much feedback, when the wheel is turned I seem to get more feedback from curbs etc. The main change I've made to the recommended settings is increasing FEI to 80 from 50, which has helped with the overall feedback. 90-100 vibrates a bit too much, causes that clackyness sometimes.
If any CSL users have recommendations on gaining better road feel out of these settings, I'm open to suggestions. Can't afford a CSL DD at this point, so 🤷. Thanks in advance, I'm sure there are plenty of us out here just waiting for a 'best setup'..
Hopefully, maybe Fanatec will read our comments here about the CSL Elite, and feed that back to PD?
I ran FEI 60 last night. I think the higher you go, does help. But as you say Mike, it starts to cause that rattle/clackyness, especially when coming to a stop.
I have csl elite PS4 version, playing on ps5. For me the big issue with this game is how fast the wheel returns to center when you are drifting or loosing your back end. It's difficult to maintain the slide when your back snaps because the wheel wants to return to the center in unnatural way.
Anyone experienced the same thing?
My settings is fanatec recommended expect srp which I use off.
yes you are right the steering wheel tries to return to the center too quickly preventing control sometimes it is also the same set on auto it does not have the same rotation as some cars I noticed! in doing so, the entry into the corners is sometimes too fast and you risk losing the rear Gt dd pro
Hi all, apologies if this has been covered but I have noticed using the Gran Turismo DD Pro I am getting virtually nothing off of rumble strips. I swear this was fine previously, is it an issue with the latest patch from PD or do we think it's a Wheel issue?
I’ve been using the Fanatec recommended settings with my Podium F1 - only changes are FFB 60, and in game 6/1 instead of 5/1.
I’ve had no issues with those settings, but when driving the McLaren Prototype (not sure of exact name) in a straight line my wheel started shaking heavily from left to right. While this does not happen in other cars at even higher speeds (917 Porsche goes over 200mph without issues), it also happened in that Nissan (prototype, I think) that you drive in one of the last license tests.
Does anyone know why this might happen and what can be done?
New wheel driver here and new to the Fanatec ecosystem but not new to Gran Turismo. I played controller for years like a scrub and wanted to get a nice wheel setup so bought the DD Pro. I am struggling a bit here on fine tuning my wheel to my liking. I used the recommended settings to start but a few concerns.
1 - Steering wheel feels light and oscillates on the straightaways. Is NDP the setting I want to adjust here?
2 - Cars seem to snap oversteer and I can't catch it with the wheel where I could with the controller. When it starts to happen, it feels like the wheel is already turned and i can't get it back. Not sure if this is a force feedback thing. Running the stock 5nM power supply.
3 - Is there a way to increase the "dead zone" on the wheel. For me, it seems i need the sensitivity of the wheel to be turned down. Just the slightest input over a rumble strip and the car loses rear traction and crashes. I know the sensitivity setting adjusts how much rotation is in the wheel but i need something which reduces the sensitivity to inputs. Does controller sensitivity in game setting impact wheel sensitivity?
Man I'm in the same boat and glad to see it's not just me. My settings are the same and I have the same problem. Also feels like I have to fight the wheel basically all the way around the track.
Its wild to watch guys with different systems run with zero TCS and barely even slide or slip and when they do they can easily correct it. People with G29s and older thrustmasters appear to not have issues. I really want to keep testing and trying but its becoming increasingly frustrating to baby the car around the track and be over 1 second slower than controller.
I am in the same boat as you are. This is my first wheel, GT DD Pro, and it is impossible to control the car and has made the game not fun at all. Every setting combination I try doesn’t seem to help. I am so much faster and in more control with the controller.
Give it time and practice. I have a feeling alot of new people are going to wheels with GT7 being out and the DD Pro is getting popular.
Like anything muscle memory related you have alot of controller habits that do not transfer to a wheel, nor does a wheel use the filters PD has for controller users.
As you mess around with settings there is no setting that will make you faster. It's more about finding what is comfortable for you and what information you want the game to give as long as it is in the physics engine.
Practice and practice more. Give it time and you will enjoy it. What you are going through is common for people new to a wheel.
As for questions. In game controller sensitive does affect the wheel. Some cars will oscillate more than others. Depending on if you are a casual player or trying to compete at a higher level settings can be very different.
Personally I want my inputs as sensitive and fast as possible. I don't use alot of FFB on my DD1 and I'm not a fan of using alot of NDP or other filters because it slows down my inputs. Typically I shoot for settings just strong enough to give me what I need and not wear my arms out quickly.
With my DD1 ps4 and driver 434 I'm noticing quite a few steering angle discrepancies to the in game steering wheel. Especially with group 3 cars. Most seem to be off by 10 degrees more input than the physical wheel using the auto setting.
I would love to and need to post in the beta thread.
Unfortunately I haven't upgraded my PC yet and I am using an old windows 7 laptop. 434 works but the driver for 439 is not digitally signed so the UI won't detect the wheelbase.
Comments
Thanks Anthony. I’m glad I’m not alone on this. I was beginning to think I’d gone mad.
I’ll do some more testing, and if I find anything that works, I’ll post it back here.
Cheers
AL
Hi.
Just an update from me after some testing last night.
I was testing using the Skyline GTR 32, SH tyres, around Deep Forest. For what was the GT7 daily race B. In game settings were: Torque:5, FFSens: 1. Fanatec recommended on wheel base.
And as stated before, there is just no road detail, no rumbling over kerbs. The only time you feel something, is when the car dramatically understeers, and you get a rumble in the wheel. Moving in game FFSens to 5 or 10, didnt really do anything for feedback detail. However, 5 felt better for "loading up". So I kept it on 5. I also played around with FEI, moving from 50-60-70. There was slightly more detail, but not significant.
I then decided to change cars and do the circuit experience, which uses the Audi R8 GT3 EVO. There was a bit more detail. Not a lot of road detail, but if you hit a kerb, you got the rumble effect.
I then moved to time trialling daily race C, which was Daytona, in the Toyota Supra GT500 - and things just came alive. A lot of track surface information coming through the wheel. It felt really good.
So my conclusion is, part of the "lack of feel and detail" that we are seeing with the CSL Elite Wheel base, could be due to how PD have modelled the cars physics, tyres, suspension etc. and what feedback is output to the wheel. Particularly road cars.
Maybe a DD wheel is sensitive enough to pick those signals up, and the CSL Elite wheel base isn't? Maybe they haven't put in a lot track surface info into Deep Forest, but they have for Daytona?
So I think track and car, is a significant factor on how much feedback/detail we receive with the CSL Elite Wheel base.
Settings, I've settled on:
In game: 5 & 5
Wheel: Sens: 900, FF: 100, drI: -2 or -1, FEI: 50. Everything else Fanatec recommended.
AL
I too have been struggling to feel 100% dialed in to GT7 with the Fanatec CSL Elite wheelbase. I have fiddled with all the wheel base settings and in-game adjustments since launch. My main gripe is that I struggle to catch slides in RWD cars with Sport Soft tyres. Partly, this is due to the physics and tyre model being so different to GT Sport, but for the most part I think detail was missing from the feedback to inform me when the car was about to slide.
However, I now think the steering wheel ratio (Sensitivity setting in wheelbase) is simply too slow when left to AUTO. As a test I took a stock 911 GT3 (997) on SS tyres around Tsukuba. With Sens. set to AUTO it was difficult to catch any slides convincingly. I then reduced Sens to 800 and the difference was like night-v-day. This felt so much more natural and confidence inspiring to me. Maybe i need to refine the setting further, perhaps 900 (as AL notes above) might be the sweet spot. But give it a try. This might be a case of adjusting on a car by car basis.
In game: 7 & 1
Wheel: Sens: 800, FF: 100, drI: -1, FEI: 80. Everything else Fanatec recommended.
My updated settings since games latest patch.
IN PS5/PS4 COMPATIBILITY MODE
Podium Racing Wheel F1
Tuning Menu Settings:
In-Game Settings:
Game feels amazing as well as wheel. 😀
Also a CSL Elite user here, I've also found the recommended settings to be pretty decent. Max Torque at 4 feels a little light and lifeless, 6 feels pretty good but sometimes a bit too twitchy, so I've stuck with 5. I've also messed with DRI at -1 and 0, which also feel pretty good, but seems to lose a little of the weight transfer feeling so I've left FEI at -2 for now.
I've noticed that curbs/bumps/general road feel is sometimes inconsistent, it seems like when the wheel is mostly straight, I don't get as much feedback, when the wheel is turned I seem to get more feedback from curbs etc. The main change I've made to the recommended settings is increasing FEI to 80 from 50, which has helped with the overall feedback. 90-100 vibrates a bit too much, causes that clackyness sometimes.
If any CSL users have recommendations on gaining better road feel out of these settings, I'm open to suggestions. Can't afford a CSL DD at this point, so 🤷. Thanks in advance, I'm sure there are plenty of us out here just waiting for a 'best setup'..
-Mike
Thanks Nick and Mike.
Hopefully, maybe Fanatec will read our comments here about the CSL Elite, and feed that back to PD?
I ran FEI 60 last night. I think the higher you go, does help. But as you say Mike, it starts to cause that rattle/clackyness, especially when coming to a stop.
AL
Gt dd pro 8nm
Sen Auto
FF 100
FFS Peak
NDP 55-65
NFR 0-30
NIN Off
INT 3-12
FEI 40-70
FOR 80-100
SPR 70 (doesn‘t seem to do anything)
DPR 100
BF 75
GT Torque 5-8
GT Sens 1-2
Surprisingly i found catching oversteer much easyer using relatively high NDP and INT while using low FEI.
Also i got a nice rubbery tyre feel.
What do you guys think? Is the Spring used in GT7?
Robert: why in compatibility Mode?
I found a more smooth feeling for the dd pro 8nm for gt7
Gran Turismo DD Pro
Tuning Menu Settings:
In-Game Settings:
hello these settings do you use them on Gta dd pro? thanks, i am struggling to find a good feeling with this game
I have csl elite PS4 version, playing on ps5. For me the big issue with this game is how fast the wheel returns to center when you are drifting or loosing your back end. It's difficult to maintain the slide when your back snaps because the wheel wants to return to the center in unnatural way.
Anyone experienced the same thing?
My settings is fanatec recommended expect srp which I use off.
yes you are right the steering wheel tries to return to the center too quickly preventing control sometimes it is also the same set on auto it does not have the same rotation as some cars I noticed! in doing so, the entry into the corners is sometimes too fast and you risk losing the rear Gt dd pro
Hi all, apologies if this has been covered but I have noticed using the Gran Turismo DD Pro I am getting virtually nothing off of rumble strips. I swear this was fine previously, is it an issue with the latest patch from PD or do we think it's a Wheel issue?
Thanks
It's how the FFB is designed, it's normal.
Thanks for confirming, then the FFB design isn't very good? Hopefully they patch it
I’ve been using the Fanatec recommended settings with my Podium F1 - only changes are FFB 60, and in game 6/1 instead of 5/1.
I’ve had no issues with those settings, but when driving the McLaren Prototype (not sure of exact name) in a straight line my wheel started shaking heavily from left to right. While this does not happen in other cars at even higher speeds (917 Porsche goes over 200mph without issues), it also happened in that Nissan (prototype, I think) that you drive in one of the last license tests.
Does anyone know why this might happen and what can be done?
I use them with a Podium 1 PS4 wheelbase.
These are my Updated Settings since the games Patch 1.08.
In PS5/PS4 Compatibility mode
Podium Racing Wheel F1
Tuning Menu Settings:
In-Game Settings:
New wheel driver here and new to the Fanatec ecosystem but not new to Gran Turismo. I played controller for years like a scrub and wanted to get a nice wheel setup so bought the DD Pro. I am struggling a bit here on fine tuning my wheel to my liking. I used the recommended settings to start but a few concerns.
1 - Steering wheel feels light and oscillates on the straightaways. Is NDP the setting I want to adjust here?
2 - Cars seem to snap oversteer and I can't catch it with the wheel where I could with the controller. When it starts to happen, it feels like the wheel is already turned and i can't get it back. Not sure if this is a force feedback thing. Running the stock 5nM power supply.
3 - Is there a way to increase the "dead zone" on the wheel. For me, it seems i need the sensitivity of the wheel to be turned down. Just the slightest input over a rumble strip and the car loses rear traction and crashes. I know the sensitivity setting adjusts how much rotation is in the wheel but i need something which reduces the sensitivity to inputs. Does controller sensitivity in game setting impact wheel sensitivity?
Tuning Menu Settings:
In-Game Settings:
Man I'm in the same boat and glad to see it's not just me. My settings are the same and I have the same problem. Also feels like I have to fight the wheel basically all the way around the track.
I used these settings and had a much better experience with the standard wheel no boost pack.
Its wild to watch guys with different systems run with zero TCS and barely even slide or slip and when they do they can easily correct it. People with G29s and older thrustmasters appear to not have issues. I really want to keep testing and trying but its becoming increasingly frustrating to baby the car around the track and be over 1 second slower than controller.
I am in the same boat as you are. This is my first wheel, GT DD Pro, and it is impossible to control the car and has made the game not fun at all. Every setting combination I try doesn’t seem to help. I am so much faster and in more control with the controller.
Give it time and practice. I have a feeling alot of new people are going to wheels with GT7 being out and the DD Pro is getting popular.
Like anything muscle memory related you have alot of controller habits that do not transfer to a wheel, nor does a wheel use the filters PD has for controller users.
As you mess around with settings there is no setting that will make you faster. It's more about finding what is comfortable for you and what information you want the game to give as long as it is in the physics engine.
Practice and practice more. Give it time and you will enjoy it. What you are going through is common for people new to a wheel.
As for questions. In game controller sensitive does affect the wheel. Some cars will oscillate more than others. Depending on if you are a casual player or trying to compete at a higher level settings can be very different.
Personally I want my inputs as sensitive and fast as possible. I don't use alot of FFB on my DD1 and I'm not a fan of using alot of NDP or other filters because it slows down my inputs. Typically I shoot for settings just strong enough to give me what I need and not wear my arms out quickly.
Hope this helps.
Practice, practice and more practice.
Stick with Licences and first few Missions, they are short and keep repeating them until your muscles adapt and learn how phisics work.
Anyone else having uncontrollable wheel oscillation driving the SRT Tomahawk at high speeds? (Using the settings recommended by Fanatec)
Yes that's normal for that car.
Nothing you can do other than running without FFB or using a Controller for that car.
With my DD1 ps4 and driver 434 I'm noticing quite a few steering angle discrepancies to the in game steering wheel. Especially with group 3 cars. Most seem to be off by 10 degrees more input than the physical wheel using the auto setting.
Anyone else experience this or is it known yet?
Try driver 439
I would love to and need to post in the beta thread.
Unfortunately I haven't upgraded my PC yet and I am using an old windows 7 laptop. 434 works but the driver for 439 is not digitally signed so the UI won't detect the wheelbase.