Good luck. I haven't bothered contacting them about it, as I'm skeptical they'd be able to help me without requesting that the base be RMA'd again so they can investigate it, and I am NOT going down that road a third time.
Please do update this thread if they reply with anything useful.
It's too early to tell, but it seems to be working. I also did online competitions against real homo sapiens. I couldn't do it anymore for I don't know how long. My rating was destroyed due to disconnections.
I added 4 ferrite toroids, two for each end of the cable, immediately in front of the original one.
In the end, is it really all due to a faulty or inadequate cable?
Meanwhile Fanatec answered me and asked for an RMA ...
To ship it or not to ship it? That is the question.
Great to hear that it seems to be working for you. It does seem rather unbelievable that all these issues can be solved by snapping a few ornaments on a USB cable, but hey... if it works, it works. 💪
Personally, I don't think I'd send it back to Fanatec, not unless it does it again (and even then, I think I'd add a few more beads first...remember, I've got 6 total on mine). I am inclined to believe that there is something unique to the home environments of the people who are afflicted by this issue...some sort of EM field that is interfering with our wheelbase. Fanatec likely have a pristine testing environment, with optimal conditions and no such EMI present, so I feel that it would be unlikely that they'd find anything, and you'd be without a wheelbase and unable to race for 3 weeks while you waited.
Then again, I could be totally wrong, and maybe they *would* find something. 🤔 🤷♂️
recently i discovered similar issues, but from what i have experienced it has nothing to do with a specified EMI (using DD1 wired) nor game.
Now here comes sth. currious :) Racing on Nurburgring in ACC and Nordschleife on RRE.
When it comes to the "Fast shicane" i experienced in Both games when i am hardly braking into that corner a complete unresponsivness of the wheel, like i have no ABS anymore and all locks up. It stucks to the point were i was when i turned in and sends me. Even if u release the brake it does not come back instantly.
Had similar issues on ACC on Monza 1st Shicane or on Zandvoort when u come over the crest before the fast righthander in the dunes.
Because i never ever in 2 years had felt some similar things im wondering if after some updates there is sth. in the FFB data which causes the base to react like that.
As mentioned before, it was on nurburg exact on the same position on the track in ACC and RRE. I personally have no eplaination for it.
My wires and machine and setup has not changed the last 2 years.
What do you mean you're using a "DD1 Wired"? Are you saying that there's a wire connecting your wheel to the wheelbase? I've never seen or heard of such a thing.
Hi Gregg, just wondering, have you tried taking your rig to someone else's house? If local EMI is the culprit this should confirm it, and if it does confirm it then an EMF detector might be a worthwhile investment, btw EMF app's for your phone will only detect telco frequencies. I'm following this discussion with interest as I was about to upgrade my G25 to a CSL DD and have been waiting for their QR2 "coming soon" rofl. If there really is a hardware issue by the time they release QR2 maybe it will be resolved.
I haven't, no. Even though my rig is relatively small as opposed to something like a full-size 80/20 rig, it still would be a pretty big hassle to unplug & disassemble everything, load it up into my car (while making sure that it's carefully packed and won't smash around in transport)...find a friend with a halfway decent PC who would let me use it for an afternoon, then unpack the rig from my car, set it all up on my friend's PC, install all the necessary drivers and a relevant racing sim if he doesn't already have one, and then test it for who knows how many hours to see if maybe this issue presents itself. And then, regardless of the outcome, I've got to turn around and move everything back to my house and PC when I'm done. No thanks.
I've already been through enough hassle trying to get this sorted out. I'm not going through all of that. Thoroughly testing their equipment for susceptibility to EMI is Fanatec's job, not mine. I'm just happy that I seem to have found a solution that works. Hopefully things will stay this way.
Yeh, understood, just trying to be helpful. I use a gaming laptop and at a push could use its screen so only the wheel and pedals would need to move, been a long time since I had a tower. Fingers crossed it stays fixed for you, and yes you would expect Fanatec to have had it sorted before release. Looks like I might be waiting for quite a while before upgrading.
Sorry, didn't mean to sound snippy. I appreciate the suggestion, but I just can't be bothered at this point. I'll keep using my Fanatec gear for as long as it works, but unless I see a drastic improvement in their quality control and customer service...when it's time for me to upgrade, I'll be moving on to another brand.
No worries mate, I've read the thread so can appreciate your frustration. It's weird that there seems to be a lot of satisfied customers out there, but the people that do have issues seem to be unable to get Fanatec to fix them. I'd love to upgrade my trusty G25, but it works perfectly (for what it is) and as a casual simmer that has never experienced dd I just can't justify Au$3000 + for a simucube on the off-chance that it will improve my driving experience (not my skill, that's beyond hope) the CSL dd bundle at Au$1,650 did seem to be perfect but after reading the forums it looks like a bit of a gamble, and I wonder is the "feel" really that much better, and how much "better" then, is a simucube to a Fanatec dd, and why? I suspect that like many I'm just after a more realistic "feeling" experience than the geared/belt wheels without getting into the silly money of pro drivers, and I just want a plug-n-play solution that actually works (this bit is where Fanatec seem to fall short) Sorry for the long post just voicing my thoughts. Would appreciate any comments re: ^^^
There is a lot of discussion about Fanatec and EMI on Reddit. A guy noticed that using the csldd on the desk with the plastic clamp had no problem, but only on the metal rig, wheel went crazy.
Some solved by grounding the rig.
If the ferrites work, better to use those, much simpler and do not connect electrical wires.
To be safe, I bought larger ones and connected them to the power supply of a refrigerator and a clothes dryer in the adjacent room.
In any case, I believe that the main cause is the Fanatec motor itself which induces high frequency eddy currents in the cable.
I wonder if that info exists anywhere as just a simple html or pdf document? The annoying web app that launches for Issuu doesn't want to load on my phone.
In my situation, I still had problems after I initially installed the ferrite beads. I installed one or sometimes two on each cable, but I discovered that I needed many more than that on the wheelbase's usb cable (6 total, counting the two that are pre-installed). Once installing those additional beads, I've had no issues for several weeks now.
Perhaps you need to do like I did and just install a few more on the USB cable?
Try this on the USB cable between Fanatec and PlayStation. From both ends of the crotch. A larger clip that hugs a loop of cable creates higher impedance at lower frequencies. It could be more effective.
The ultimate solution would be to ground the rig.
Not if they work with PlayStation, but also USB isolator (a special USB key between cable and USB socket), or powered USB HUB.
Well, after having installed all the ferrite beads and having no issues for... I'm not even sure exactly...a little over a month, I guess?...
The issue happened again tonight, playing F1 2021. Was in career mode, in a practice session, when the wheel and all controls locked up, carried me straight on into a gravel trap and around in circles until I'm guessing I was disqualified, as the session just suddenly ended.
I've now taken a ferrite bead off of my keyboard and put it on my wheelbase's USB cable (which now has a total of 7 applied to it). This really has gotten into the realm of absurdity. I was really starting to think that the beads had solved the problem. Apparently not, though they do at least seem to have greatly improved it.
The only other thing I can think of trying is maybe getting a thin rubber mat to place under my rig, so that it's not sitting on the carpet. I play sitting on a cloth sofa, and I'm wondering if there could be some electrostatic discharge that builds up while playing, which is then transferred into the rig (and subsequently the PC)?
I don't know, worth a shot I guess. This whole situation is just so disappointing, not to mention exasperating. I hate that I have to keep trying to troubleshoot this stuff and can't just play worry-free and enjoy my equipment.
If it's any consolation, I have all the cables filled with ferrite beads and placed as our colleague Alessandro told us, after a week without problems today it has happened again. I'm thinking of switching to an aluminum cockpit or switching from ps5 to pc... so it's impossible to play seriously
A new rig might fix it, but it seems like an expensive thing to try, as is upgrading to PC.
I don't think rubber mat is needed. Your rig is already insulated, the floor is not the electrical ground, as well as most of the floor materials are already insulating. You should find a way for the eddy currents to go to the ground.
In reality, I also did another step, in addition to the ferrite, I mounted a PCI Express card with 2 additional USB sockets inside the pc, and I hope this was resolutive.
If not, I will connect the rig to the ground, through a wire connected to a plug with only the ground conductor. Fanatec, on a help page, recommends using a radiator.
If I had PS5 I would try a usb isolator, not being able to add a usb card. I didn't understand if it works on PS5, but Amazon accepts returns and I would try that way before giving up.
Lots of useful things to think about, thank you Alessandro.
I found a YouTube video from Karl Gosling where he's talking about some EMI problems that he's had, and he mentioned using nylon washers to physically separate the metal wheelbase from the metal rig and, presumably, break up the circuit. Seems like that's been successful for him. Might be a good low-cost potential solution to try.
Welcome to the (sometimes) wonderful world of PC gaming! 😁
Strange that you had the issues on console but not on PC (so far, at least). I was the exact opposite, albeit on an Xbox One.
The last lock-up/ unresponsive wheel incident that I had was back towards the end of April (the 26th apparently, scrolling back up here), so it's been nearly a month and I've been using the rig nearly every day for a couple of hours or so.
Question for you, Antonio: do you still have all the ferrite beads attached? Did you ever try grounding your rig like Alessandro outlined above?
Yeah!!! Impressive how the base feels on the PC... now investigating Iracing...😅
Regarding the ferrite beads, I've removed all of them and haven't taken any other action, so I'm guessing it might be some connection issue with the PS5's USB port, at least for now...
Comments
I have the exact same problem, I'll talk to Fanatec's assistance and see what they say then post an answer.
Good luck. I haven't bothered contacting them about it, as I'm skeptical they'd be able to help me without requesting that the base be RMA'd again so they can investigate it, and I am NOT going down that road a third time.
Please do update this thread if they reply with anything useful.
It's too early to tell, but it seems to be working. I also did online competitions against real homo sapiens. I couldn't do it anymore for I don't know how long. My rating was destroyed due to disconnections.
I added 4 ferrite toroids, two for each end of the cable, immediately in front of the original one.
In the end, is it really all due to a faulty or inadequate cable?
Meanwhile Fanatec answered me and asked for an RMA ...
To ship it or not to ship it? That is the question.
Great to hear that it seems to be working for you. It does seem rather unbelievable that all these issues can be solved by snapping a few ornaments on a USB cable, but hey... if it works, it works. 💪
Personally, I don't think I'd send it back to Fanatec, not unless it does it again (and even then, I think I'd add a few more beads first...remember, I've got 6 total on mine). I am inclined to believe that there is something unique to the home environments of the people who are afflicted by this issue...some sort of EM field that is interfering with our wheelbase. Fanatec likely have a pristine testing environment, with optimal conditions and no such EMI present, so I feel that it would be unlikely that they'd find anything, and you'd be without a wheelbase and unable to race for 3 weeks while you waited.
Then again, I could be totally wrong, and maybe they *would* find something. 🤔 🤷♂️
Hi folks,
recently i discovered similar issues, but from what i have experienced it has nothing to do with a specified EMI (using DD1 wired) nor game.
Now here comes sth. currious :) Racing on Nurburgring in ACC and Nordschleife on RRE.
When it comes to the "Fast shicane" i experienced in Both games when i am hardly braking into that corner a complete unresponsivness of the wheel, like i have no ABS anymore and all locks up. It stucks to the point were i was when i turned in and sends me. Even if u release the brake it does not come back instantly.
Had similar issues on ACC on Monza 1st Shicane or on Zandvoort when u come over the crest before the fast righthander in the dunes.
Because i never ever in 2 years had felt some similar things im wondering if after some updates there is sth. in the FFB data which causes the base to react like that.
As mentioned before, it was on nurburg exact on the same position on the track in ACC and RRE. I personally have no eplaination for it.
My wires and machine and setup has not changed the last 2 years.
What do you mean you're using a "DD1 Wired"? Are you saying that there's a wire connecting your wheel to the wheelbase? I've never seen or heard of such a thing.
Hi Gregg, just wondering, have you tried taking your rig to someone else's house? If local EMI is the culprit this should confirm it, and if it does confirm it then an EMF detector might be a worthwhile investment, btw EMF app's for your phone will only detect telco frequencies. I'm following this discussion with interest as I was about to upgrade my G25 to a CSL DD and have been waiting for their QR2 "coming soon" rofl. If there really is a hardware issue by the time they release QR2 maybe it will be resolved.
I haven't, no. Even though my rig is relatively small as opposed to something like a full-size 80/20 rig, it still would be a pretty big hassle to unplug & disassemble everything, load it up into my car (while making sure that it's carefully packed and won't smash around in transport)...find a friend with a halfway decent PC who would let me use it for an afternoon, then unpack the rig from my car, set it all up on my friend's PC, install all the necessary drivers and a relevant racing sim if he doesn't already have one, and then test it for who knows how many hours to see if maybe this issue presents itself. And then, regardless of the outcome, I've got to turn around and move everything back to my house and PC when I'm done. No thanks.
I've already been through enough hassle trying to get this sorted out. I'm not going through all of that. Thoroughly testing their equipment for susceptibility to EMI is Fanatec's job, not mine. I'm just happy that I seem to have found a solution that works. Hopefully things will stay this way.
Yeh, understood, just trying to be helpful. I use a gaming laptop and at a push could use its screen so only the wheel and pedals would need to move, been a long time since I had a tower. Fingers crossed it stays fixed for you, and yes you would expect Fanatec to have had it sorted before release. Looks like I might be waiting for quite a while before upgrading.
Sorry, didn't mean to sound snippy. I appreciate the suggestion, but I just can't be bothered at this point. I'll keep using my Fanatec gear for as long as it works, but unless I see a drastic improvement in their quality control and customer service...when it's time for me to upgrade, I'll be moving on to another brand.
No worries mate, I've read the thread so can appreciate your frustration. It's weird that there seems to be a lot of satisfied customers out there, but the people that do have issues seem to be unable to get Fanatec to fix them. I'd love to upgrade my trusty G25, but it works perfectly (for what it is) and as a casual simmer that has never experienced dd I just can't justify Au$3000 + for a simucube on the off-chance that it will improve my driving experience (not my skill, that's beyond hope) the CSL dd bundle at Au$1,650 did seem to be perfect but after reading the forums it looks like a bit of a gamble, and I wonder is the "feel" really that much better, and how much "better" then, is a simucube to a Fanatec dd, and why? I suspect that like many I'm just after a more realistic "feeling" experience than the geared/belt wheels without getting into the silly money of pro drivers, and I just want a plug-n-play solution that actually works (this bit is where Fanatec seem to fall short) Sorry for the long post just voicing my thoughts. Would appreciate any comments re: ^^^
Hello again!
Well...without making any changes I have been playing for 2 weeks, every day, without problems.
But, yesterday and today it has happened to me again... In GT7 and ACC (in an endurance championship...unbelievable situation).
I will order the ferrite beads on amazon and try.
I will tell you the result in a few days.
Oh man, bummer! I hope that works for you, please do let us know!
Curiosity! Do you use a metal rig?
Yesterday I celebrated the first week without fail. A nice result, thinking that I couldn't use CSL DD for more than 15 minutes straight.
Yes, I use a playseat metal cockpit.
Today the ferrita beads have arrive.
There is a lot of discussion about Fanatec and EMI on Reddit. A guy noticed that using the csldd on the desk with the plastic clamp had no problem, but only on the metal rig, wheel went crazy.
Some solved by grounding the rig.
If the ferrites work, better to use those, much simpler and do not connect electrical wires.
To be safe, I bought larger ones and connected them to the power supply of a refrigerator and a clothes dryer in the adjacent room.
In any case, I believe that the main cause is the Fanatec motor itself which induces high frequency eddy currents in the cable.
Search in Google "eliminate emi issues with open sim wheel".
You can find a very complete document from Issuu.
I wonder if that info exists anywhere as just a simple html or pdf document? The annoying web app that launches for Issuu doesn't want to load on my phone.
Use issuudownload dot net.
Search on Google Issuu to PDF is the First result.
Everything remains the same.
I have put ferrite beads on all the cables (usb, pedals, HDMI, power...) and nothing has been solved.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dm01-gA1ZiM
In my situation, I still had problems after I initially installed the ferrite beads. I installed one or sometimes two on each cable, but I discovered that I needed many more than that on the wheelbase's usb cable (6 total, counting the two that are pre-installed). Once installing those additional beads, I've had no issues for several weeks now.
Perhaps you need to do like I did and just install a few more on the USB cable?
Try this on the USB cable between Fanatec and PlayStation. From both ends of the crotch. A larger clip that hugs a loop of cable creates higher impedance at lower frequencies. It could be more effective.
The ultimate solution would be to ground the rig.
Not if they work with PlayStation, but also USB isolator (a special USB key between cable and USB socket), or powered USB HUB.
Well, after having installed all the ferrite beads and having no issues for... I'm not even sure exactly...a little over a month, I guess?...
The issue happened again tonight, playing F1 2021. Was in career mode, in a practice session, when the wheel and all controls locked up, carried me straight on into a gravel trap and around in circles until I'm guessing I was disqualified, as the session just suddenly ended.
I've now taken a ferrite bead off of my keyboard and put it on my wheelbase's USB cable (which now has a total of 7 applied to it). This really has gotten into the realm of absurdity. I was really starting to think that the beads had solved the problem. Apparently not, though they do at least seem to have greatly improved it.
The only other thing I can think of trying is maybe getting a thin rubber mat to place under my rig, so that it's not sitting on the carpet. I play sitting on a cloth sofa, and I'm wondering if there could be some electrostatic discharge that builds up while playing, which is then transferred into the rig (and subsequently the PC)?
I don't know, worth a shot I guess. This whole situation is just so disappointing, not to mention exasperating. I hate that I have to keep trying to troubleshoot this stuff and can't just play worry-free and enjoy my equipment.
If it's any consolation, I have all the cables filled with ferrite beads and placed as our colleague Alessandro told us, after a week without problems today it has happened again. I'm thinking of switching to an aluminum cockpit or switching from ps5 to pc... so it's impossible to play seriously
This is bad news.
A new rig might fix it, but it seems like an expensive thing to try, as is upgrading to PC.
I don't think rubber mat is needed. Your rig is already insulated, the floor is not the electrical ground, as well as most of the floor materials are already insulating. You should find a way for the eddy currents to go to the ground.
In reality, I also did another step, in addition to the ferrite, I mounted a PCI Express card with 2 additional USB sockets inside the pc, and I hope this was resolutive.
If not, I will connect the rig to the ground, through a wire connected to a plug with only the ground conductor. Fanatec, on a help page, recommends using a radiator.
If I had PS5 I would try a usb isolator, not being able to add a usb card. I didn't understand if it works on PS5, but Amazon accepts returns and I would try that way before giving up.
Lots of useful things to think about, thank you Alessandro.
I found a YouTube video from Karl Gosling where he's talking about some EMI problems that he's had, and he mentioned using nylon washers to physically separate the metal wheelbase from the metal rig and, presumably, break up the circuit. Seems like that's been successful for him. Might be a good low-cost potential solution to try.
Karl used these too.
Insulation washers M6.
He used a flat white nylon washer, and one shoulder washer, to completely isolate the screw from the hole.
Hi guys!
Sorry for so long without talking about it.
I wanted to be sure before commenting again.
I sold the PS5, it was impossible to drive like that.... and now I've been on PC for 2 weeks.
Everything perfect, many hours in ACC and no crash at the moment....
I still don't understand where the problems was.
On the other hand, delighted with the change, the base behaves totally differently and the games feel differently, but that's another topic...
The thing is that in 2 weeks I haven't had any problems driving for many hours...
And the mystery remains unsolved....
Welcome to the (sometimes) wonderful world of PC gaming! 😁
Strange that you had the issues on console but not on PC (so far, at least). I was the exact opposite, albeit on an Xbox One.
The last lock-up/ unresponsive wheel incident that I had was back towards the end of April (the 26th apparently, scrolling back up here), so it's been nearly a month and I've been using the rig nearly every day for a couple of hours or so.
Question for you, Antonio: do you still have all the ferrite beads attached? Did you ever try grounding your rig like Alessandro outlined above?
Yeah!!! Impressive how the base feels on the PC... now investigating Iracing...😅
Regarding the ferrite beads, I've removed all of them and haven't taken any other action, so I'm guessing it might be some connection issue with the PS5's USB port, at least for now...