Hey guys, I have a CSL Elite+ Ps4 edition. If I use any fanalab version after 1.69.7 my wheelbase LEDs do not work. no matter what i do. I've reset everything deleted all my ACC vehicle profiles nothing seems to solve the issue. the only version it works with is the above stated one. the led at the top of the wheel and the RPM display do work but the led is still slightly buggy. in AMS2 I get the same issue except the leds flash erratically when I get closer to the max RPM of the car i'm using.
I'm on windows 11 Latest fanatec driver wheelbase is CSL Elite + Ps4 edition with P1 wheel. Happy to provide any additional info at all.
heres a google photos link to a video of whats going on in AMS 2
Hi maurice my wheel just frozed not using fanalab only using fanatec leds in game and fanalab was never open when it happend. Did anyone elsed had this issue maybe that the rev led on the wheel froze actually even the tuning menu doesnt work just the buttons and even steering wheel looses a bit of force feed back when it happens. Did anyone else maybe have this issue without using fanalb on cs dd?
Yes, there are reports of people having the issue without running Fanalab. Therefore it cant be a Lab issue, but a Firmware issue, most likely an issue of the QR.
Hi, how do you insert the profiles? It's the first time I usually manually insert the parameters I find on the forum, thank you very much I'm only interested in motorist 2
Question on the Fanalab settings. In particular the FF Overall FFB Strength. The game is iRacing for everything here.
I'm using Maurice configs. I've got the DD2 base. I follow the information on setting the in game settings based on the profile numbers for Max Force and Wheel Force. I'm guessing once it's set to the profile "max force" it does not matter if you go back toggle it back to "strength" ?
Depending on the car and the wheel I'm using the strength seems a bit strong for me. If I'm using the Formula 2.5v2 wheel is generally when the strength feels too much vs a little large round wheel.
Wondering what the best way is to turn the strength down a bit ? Should I do it in the game or back down the FF setting in Fanalab?
For example.. in the Mercedes GT4 the FF in Fanalab is set for 60%. It seems a bit much (the holding force) for lack of better words when making a turn. I've turned down the FF setting from 60% to 50% and that seems good to me in Fanalab.
I'm just wondering if I should make this sort of change in the "game" or in Fanalab the preferred method ? I've played with the Strength setting in iRacing some as well. If I go to the black box setting and click auto after a clean lap or so it seems to always increase the resistance when then makes it just too much "holding force".
Is there a way to get Fanalab auto-load default profile when switching to a car that is not profile-linked ? I noticed that the last used car-linked profile stay loaded if I use an other car that is not affected to a profile.
CS DD (12NM) - POWER button does not turn On. I tried to fix downgrading drivers 455-454 and vice versa. STILL ISSUE remains. I contacted support. no response yet. Anyone, can give me info on how to solve/fix this issue? I am missing to play again in ACC. currently, sitting 3 weeks. :( . IM stressed of this huhuhuhu. all i want is to have fun. but atleast make it work so that i can use it in the game. i dont want it to sit the and collect dust in to corners. I am begging to anyone in here to help me. or just me words of hope eventough it is false hope.
I apologize for posting non related topic here on Fanatec Forum. It's just I needed attention to relating to my issue. I know that this is just a hobby. Only if you know the feeling of Having a FIRST direct drive wheel and i DONT HAVE ANY SPARE OF CHEAP WHEELS. have you experienced that?. FOR you yeah. you have a lot of spare. cuz you work in fanatec as software beta tester.
DEC 12 I bought. shutdown DEC 22. i think, my patience is quiet too short right? kind of? i can do nothing because definitely I can,t do nothing.
Ok... I'm 100% agree with that ! If you have done only a few per car profiles you're "locked".
I thought that you can assign all others cars to the Default but multi-selection not working properly, it only assign the first selected. So it's a bit boring to do it 1 by 1.
Those two points should be reviewed 😀 I hope in an update
Yes, you shouldn't need to assign the default profile to cars - unmatched cars should simply revert to the default. It's the whole point of a default! Fanatec deliberately chose to break the default - this isn't a bug - they designed it this way.
I've updated today, I skipped a few versions of fanalab because I had issues.
There is a new thing my CSL DD is doing now, where it vibrates after I shift, like a recoil. Is there a way to disable that? I don't see any obvious setting in fanalab for it.
Hi, everyone I am having some issues with the Fanalab profile not being "loaded" or is completely wrong when I jump into iRacing.
I have everything up to date (both driver and fanalab .21) and I have the iRacing led disabled.
Problem is that when I jump into the car the leds are just yellow - red - off when the loaded profile is green-red-blue, it appears as the active profile but it is not honored by iRacing.
I figured out a way to make it work, but i must do this every time I close the sim:
"Disable FanaLab's Game LED" by checking "Use wheel shift indicator".
Load the Game Profile in FanaLab.
Join the session and rev the car until the Leds wrongly is displayed on the wheel.
"Enable FanaLab's Game LED" by unchecking "Use wheel shift indicator".
This workaround makes the fanalab led profile work as intenteded, I also tried older fanalab versions but no luck.
So AFTER unchecked "Use wheel shift indicator" and verified the it was working as expected, instead of just closing the app and reopening iRacing I shut down and then restarted the whole PC.
Afterwards, open iRacing and it is hooking without problems with Fanalab. Even with Garage61 and SimHub for my external display!
FYI: On the "options" under external displays I unchecked every single checkobx, as I wasn't using any of them.
DD1 with M4 wheels and Shift lights set to percentage in AMS2 Often do not work perfectly. However they do work perfect with the BMR on Universal Hub?
Its bumming me out. Any idea if this is Driver/Fanalab or hardware?
I set 3 button Leds X2 (left and right) for Rev lights on both wheels. Same Percentages. BMR works flawlessly, but the M4 often only lights up the First light set. Sometimes it Lights up the First and Second Light Set. And maybe 60-70 percent of the time lights them all up properly.
I thought it was an AMS2 issue, and played with the telemetry out and settled on the update of 4. But I've tried every number in AMS2 and it doesn't make sense the the BMR always works perfectly.
Hi, thanks a lot for profiles, I am using them for some time with 8nm. (Don't know if anything changed with 12nm release.) Here is how you get those dd1/2 work for 8nm in iRacing: ffb 60%>100% ,natural friction 25% (to remove most of the oscillation, but 0% for dirt racing), in game almost double recomended ffb "strength"(maybe less for dirt racing, rallycross...).
// I will try the new pack for DD+ and let you know the modifier for 8nm :)
I just received a new Podium Button Module Endurance and Button module Rally, the Rally works great so far, but the Endurance is showing some odd behavior and freezes when the ITM is activated, and Page 4 (car ahead/car behind) is used as the favorite/main display page.
The Shifters, Steering and FFB still work but all the buttons are inoperable and the display and LED's are frozen.
I mainly drive Project Cars 2, and when using the Endurance module, the LED's and display started freezing up at odd times during an endurance race that was longer than 30 minutes.
The PC2 endurance campaign has only 2 races (Spa & Le Mans) that were long enough to make this happen, and it only occurred after 30 minutes or more (sometimes as long as an hour and a half) of driving with everything working fine.
At first, I was unable to find a definite trigger point for the error, it just happened sometime after the 1/2-hour mark, so it was very hard to reproduce. I tried a few other games I have and did not see the same error until I loaded up Automobilista2, then it started freezing up every time I was on track, even during qualifying sessions. I'm not sure how to make a video of this issue, or if this is Hardware or Software/Firmware related, so I hope the more knowledgeable folks here can help me figure this out.
After the freeze my Fanatec properties page and the Fanalab page both show the PBME missing, and the Universal hub is shown alone.
I can only get the functions back by doing a reboot of the CSL DD while the game is paused and minimized, once I return to the game it quickly freezes up again if left on Page 4 of the ITM, if during the reboot, I also change the ITM favorite/main display page from #4 (car ahead/car behind) to any other page. the game will continue with no errors or faults from Fanalab.
Is this a Fanalab issue, or a Driver/Firmware issue??
I submitted a support request on the issue but have not received any response, or even an acknowledgement of my submission.
As you can see in my screenshot of the Fanatec Properties page, I'm using a CSL DD 8nm and my driver version is 455,
the firmware versions are:
base = 1.1.11.3
motor = 1.0.3.2
QR = 6.0.1.1
Fanalab version = v2.01.21
I'm using the Universal hub for X Box One, and have also recreated the issue using a new Universal hub V2.
I have done a clean reinstall of Fanalab and the Fanatec driver, and performed a repair of the PBME firmware with no changes.
Thanks ahead for any help you folks can offer, I love the PBME and want to keep it in my set-up.
I have the same freezing problem in ACC. Very randomly freezing, sometimes it's work 5 minutes then freeze, sometimes work 2 day straight.
Trust me, this is a software issue, because I know a lot of ppl. who have the same problem...
Just don't use Fanalab, and your BME not gonna freeze... which is ridiculous!
Contacted Fanatec support two months ago, and still not fixed my problem, because not get any reply. I was send 3 email with videos, and nothing. Their support are dead, or I don't know what happened, but this is annoying!
"Just don't use Fanalab, and your BME not gonna freeze... which is ridiculous!"
Without Fanalab the PBME is almost useless, sorry this affecting you also Robert.
Today I ran AMS2 for a 20 minute qualifier and two 30 minute races with no freezes, then went to Project Cars 2 and loaded up SPA-Francorchamps, within 40 minutes it froze the ITM and LED's and Fanalab lost touch with the PBME, only seeing the Universal Hub and shifters. until I paused the game & minimized to taskbar to reboot the CSL DD and reestablish contact with the PBM, then I switched the ITM page from #4 to the default page #1 and continued the race without issues. It is very hard to reproduce something like that, I hope the diagnostic files have some useful info for the technicians, if they ever get around to looking at them..
I guess I should feel lucky it works as well as it does..
And just when I thought it might work for a while Automobilista2 froze up ITM, LED's and all buttons on the PBME after completing a 10-minute practice and starting into a 20-minute qualifier.
this issue with a specific ITM page #4 on 2 games (so far... it's new and I have limited testing) is VERY puzzling, and you would think something like this would attract the attention of a curious technician...
ahem... to any curious techs reading this... Do I need to collect a new set of diagnostic files for each game affected?
????
At 72 years old 👴 it's all I have left for fun & recreation, I really don't need all this frustration.
My PBME freeze and loss of connection only occurs when I have ITM active with page #4 as the main/favorite, and so far, it is that way in 2 games I've tested, I haven't had a chance to set it up with ACC and test that game yet, As I mentioned before, I'm 72 years old and I move a little slower than I used to...
Have you tried ACC with your ITM set-up using something other than Page# 4, I wonder if it would behave the same as mine and keep working??
It also seems that my issue is a lot less than some others described here, but it still takes away enjoyment to have this glitchy behavior on very expensive and supposedly high-quality gear. 🙄
Comments
Hey guys, I have a CSL Elite+ Ps4 edition. If I use any fanalab version after 1.69.7 my wheelbase LEDs do not work. no matter what i do. I've reset everything deleted all my ACC vehicle profiles nothing seems to solve the issue. the only version it works with is the above stated one. the led at the top of the wheel and the RPM display do work but the led is still slightly buggy. in AMS2 I get the same issue except the leds flash erratically when I get closer to the max RPM of the car i'm using.
I'm on windows 11 Latest fanatec driver wheelbase is CSL Elite + Ps4 edition with P1 wheel. Happy to provide any additional info at all.
heres a google photos link to a video of whats going on in AMS 2
Bruce.
Hi maurice my wheel just frozed not using fanalab only using fanatec leds in game and fanalab was never open when it happend. Did anyone elsed had this issue maybe that the rev led on the wheel froze actually even the tuning menu doesnt work just the buttons and even steering wheel looses a bit of force feed back when it happens. Did anyone else maybe have this issue without using fanalb on cs dd?
The Wheel Base LEDs will be fixed with the next version.
Yes, there are reports of people having the issue without running Fanalab. Therefore it cant be a Lab issue, but a Firmware issue, most likely an issue of the QR.
Pitlane LEDs staying on when Pit Limiter LEDs are disabled in the settings will be fixed with the next version.
Hi, how do you insert the profiles? It's the first time I usually manually insert the parameters I find on the forum, thank you very much I'm only interested in motorist 2
Question on the Fanalab settings. In particular the FF Overall FFB Strength. The game is iRacing for everything here.
I'm using Maurice configs. I've got the DD2 base. I follow the information on setting the in game settings based on the profile numbers for Max Force and Wheel Force. I'm guessing once it's set to the profile "max force" it does not matter if you go back toggle it back to "strength" ?
Depending on the car and the wheel I'm using the strength seems a bit strong for me. If I'm using the Formula 2.5v2 wheel is generally when the strength feels too much vs a little large round wheel.
Wondering what the best way is to turn the strength down a bit ? Should I do it in the game or back down the FF setting in Fanalab?
For example.. in the Mercedes GT4 the FF in Fanalab is set for 60%. It seems a bit much (the holding force) for lack of better words when making a turn. I've turned down the FF setting from 60% to 50% and that seems good to me in Fanalab.
I'm just wondering if I should make this sort of change in the "game" or in Fanalab the preferred method ? I've played with the Strength setting in iRacing some as well. If I go to the black box setting and click auto after a clean lap or so it seems to always increase the resistance when then makes it just too much "holding force".
Just curious on what others do with this .
Ok thank you for the reply, and should the CS DD be plugged in into the usb 3 port or usb 2 port? Thank you
Hi all,
Is there a way to get Fanalab auto-load default profile when switching to a car that is not profile-linked ? I noticed that the last used car-linked profile stay loaded if I use an other car that is not affected to a profile.
Thanks
No.
It's been pointed out before that this makes no sense and when no profile match is defined, Fanalab should default to default.
Fanatec claim that keeping the last used profile loaded for all unmatched cars is better.
Makes no sense, I know. Default is rendered redundant and Fanalab never defaults back to the default profile after any matched profile has loaded.
does anyone know. how to fix my issue?
CS DD (12NM) - POWER button does not turn On. I tried to fix downgrading drivers 455-454 and vice versa. STILL ISSUE remains. I contacted support. no response yet. Anyone, can give me info on how to solve/fix this issue? I am missing to play again in ACC. currently, sitting 3 weeks. :( . IM stressed of this huhuhuhu. all i want is to have fun. but atleast make it work so that i can use it in the game. i dont want it to sit the and collect dust in to corners. I am begging to anyone in here to help me. or just me words of hope eventough it is false hope.
Dont know how this is related to FanaLab?
It sounds like a hardware issue and you need to wait wait for the answer from support.
hardware issue maybe?
I apologize for posting non related topic here on Fanatec Forum. It's just I needed attention to relating to my issue. I know that this is just a hobby. Only if you know the feeling of Having a FIRST direct drive wheel and i DONT HAVE ANY SPARE OF CHEAP WHEELS. have you experienced that?. FOR you yeah. you have a lot of spare. cuz you work in fanatec as software beta tester.
DEC 12 I bought. shutdown DEC 22. i think, my patience is quiet too short right? kind of? i can do nothing because definitely I can,t do nothing.
Ok... I'm 100% agree with that ! If you have done only a few per car profiles you're "locked".
I thought that you can assign all others cars to the Default but multi-selection not working properly, it only assign the first selected. So it's a bit boring to do it 1 by 1.
Those two points should be reviewed 😀 I hope in an update
Yes, you shouldn't need to assign the default profile to cars - unmatched cars should simply revert to the default. It's the whole point of a default! Fanatec deliberately chose to break the default - this isn't a bug - they designed it this way.
I've updated today, I skipped a few versions of fanalab because I had issues.
There is a new thing my CSL DD is doing now, where it vibrates after I shift, like a recoil. Is there a way to disable that? I don't see any obvious setting in fanalab for it.
I want to say thank you for your efforts for making these great profiles. it really helps a lot!
Hi, everyone I am having some issues with the Fanalab profile not being "loaded" or is completely wrong when I jump into iRacing.
I have everything up to date (both driver and fanalab .21) and I have the iRacing led disabled.
Problem is that when I jump into the car the leds are just yellow - red - off when the loaded profile is green-red-blue, it appears as the active profile but it is not honored by iRacing.
I figured out a way to make it work, but i must do this every time I close the sim:
This workaround makes the fanalab led profile work as intenteded, I also tried older fanalab versions but no luck.
Any help is appreciated please.
I manage to find a solution!
So AFTER unchecked "Use wheel shift indicator" and verified the it was working as expected, instead of just closing the app and reopening iRacing I shut down and then restarted the whole PC.
Afterwards, open iRacing and it is hooking without problems with Fanalab. Even with Garage61 and SimHub for my external display!
FYI: On the "options" under external displays I unchecked every single checkobx, as I wasn't using any of them.
DD1 with M4 wheels and Shift lights set to percentage in AMS2 Often do not work perfectly. However they do work perfect with the BMR on Universal Hub?
Its bumming me out. Any idea if this is Driver/Fanalab or hardware?
I set 3 button Leds X2 (left and right) for Rev lights on both wheels. Same Percentages. BMR works flawlessly, but the M4 often only lights up the First light set. Sometimes it Lights up the First and Second Light Set. And maybe 60-70 percent of the time lights them all up properly.
I thought it was an AMS2 issue, and played with the telemetry out and settled on the update of 4. But I've tried every number in AMS2 and it doesn't make sense the the BMR always works perfectly.
Hi, thanks a lot for profiles, I am using them for some time with 8nm. (Don't know if anything changed with 12nm release.) Here is how you get those dd1/2 work for 8nm in iRacing: ffb 60%>100% ,natural friction 25% (to remove most of the oscillation, but 0% for dirt racing), in game almost double recomended ffb "strength"(maybe less for dirt racing, rallycross...).
// I will try the new pack for DD+ and let you know the modifier for 8nm :)
Hello all,
I just received a new Podium Button Module Endurance and Button module Rally, the Rally works great so far, but the Endurance is showing some odd behavior and freezes when the ITM is activated, and Page 4 (car ahead/car behind) is used as the favorite/main display page.
The Shifters, Steering and FFB still work but all the buttons are inoperable and the display and LED's are frozen.
I mainly drive Project Cars 2, and when using the Endurance module, the LED's and display started freezing up at odd times during an endurance race that was longer than 30 minutes.
The PC2 endurance campaign has only 2 races (Spa & Le Mans) that were long enough to make this happen, and it only occurred after 30 minutes or more (sometimes as long as an hour and a half) of driving with everything working fine.
At first, I was unable to find a definite trigger point for the error, it just happened sometime after the 1/2-hour mark, so it was very hard to reproduce. I tried a few other games I have and did not see the same error until I loaded up Automobilista2, then it started freezing up every time I was on track, even during qualifying sessions. I'm not sure how to make a video of this issue, or if this is Hardware or Software/Firmware related, so I hope the more knowledgeable folks here can help me figure this out.
After the freeze my Fanatec properties page and the Fanalab page both show the PBME missing, and the Universal hub is shown alone.
I can only get the functions back by doing a reboot of the CSL DD while the game is paused and minimized, once I return to the game it quickly freezes up again if left on Page 4 of the ITM, if during the reboot, I also change the ITM favorite/main display page from #4 (car ahead/car behind) to any other page. the game will continue with no errors or faults from Fanalab.
Is this a Fanalab issue, or a Driver/Firmware issue??
I submitted a support request on the issue but have not received any response, or even an acknowledgement of my submission.
As you can see in my screenshot of the Fanatec Properties page, I'm using a CSL DD 8nm and my driver version is 455,
the firmware versions are:
base = 1.1.11.3
motor = 1.0.3.2
QR = 6.0.1.1
Fanalab version = v2.01.21
I'm using the Universal hub for X Box One, and have also recreated the issue using a new Universal hub V2.
I have done a clean reinstall of Fanalab and the Fanatec driver, and performed a repair of the PBME firmware with no changes.
Thanks ahead for any help you folks can offer, I love the PBME and want to keep it in my set-up.
Michael Duran
I have the same freezing problem in ACC. Very randomly freezing, sometimes it's work 5 minutes then freeze, sometimes work 2 day straight.
Trust me, this is a software issue, because I know a lot of ppl. who have the same problem...
Just don't use Fanalab, and your BME not gonna freeze... which is ridiculous!
Contacted Fanatec support two months ago, and still not fixed my problem, because not get any reply. I was send 3 email with videos, and nothing. Their support are dead, or I don't know what happened, but this is annoying!
Thank you Fanatec!
"Just don't use Fanalab, and your BME not gonna freeze... which is ridiculous!"
Without Fanalab the PBME is almost useless, sorry this affecting you also Robert.
Today I ran AMS2 for a 20 minute qualifier and two 30 minute races with no freezes, then went to Project Cars 2 and loaded up SPA-Francorchamps, within 40 minutes it froze the ITM and LED's and Fanalab lost touch with the PBME, only seeing the Universal Hub and shifters. until I paused the game & minimized to taskbar to reboot the CSL DD and reestablish contact with the PBM, then I switched the ITM page from #4 to the default page #1 and continued the race without issues. It is very hard to reproduce something like that, I hope the diagnostic files have some useful info for the technicians, if they ever get around to looking at them..
I guess I should feel lucky it works as well as it does..
Good luck with your issue Robert
And just when I thought it might work for a while Automobilista2 froze up ITM, LED's and all buttons on the PBME after completing a 10-minute practice and starting into a 20-minute qualifier.
this issue with a specific ITM page #4 on 2 games (so far... it's new and I have limited testing) is VERY puzzling, and you would think something like this would attract the attention of a curious technician...
ahem... to any curious techs reading this... Do I need to collect a new set of diagnostic files for each game affected?
????
At 72 years old 👴 it's all I have left for fun & recreation, I really don't need all this frustration.
Is anyone listening...
Sigh... 😑
We can only hope 🙄
I also use the same ITM #4 page. You was try another ITM page, does it's freeze too?
Something wrong with that.
Any thing on this @maurice bouschen I know you have setup both wheels in Fanalabs. I'd like to figure this out.
Yes, that is correct Robert, It's very odd...
My PBME freeze and loss of connection only occurs when I have ITM active with page #4 as the main/favorite, and so far, it is that way in 2 games I've tested, I haven't had a chance to set it up with ACC and test that game yet, As I mentioned before, I'm 72 years old and I move a little slower than I used to...
Have you tried ACC with your ITM set-up using something other than Page# 4, I wonder if it would behave the same as mine and keep working??
It also seems that my issue is a lot less than some others described here, but it still takes away enjoyment to have this glitchy behavior on very expensive and supposedly high-quality gear. 🙄