Steering Wheel randomly disconnects, FFB working but no Buttons
Noah Scheidegger
Member
So i recently bought a new CSL DD with the limited RedBull Racing Wheel, basically the 2.5 Formula one Wheel just fancier. This is my first purchase and all in all it cost me around 1000$ and i was really excited.
When it arrived i installed everything and started playing. The first like 2 hours everything went fine but after that my wheel started lagging. Randomly the Buttons didn't work anymore and also the LED's went off but the FFB did work. It doesn't matter which curve, which game or which USB-Port, its just randomly. I saw that the problem is well known and that you can unscrew some bolts to push the rod on the wheelbase furhter in, but since i have a new wheelbase with the new QR2 i dont have this rod. (i guess?)
I also reinstalled the firmware, searched for updates etc. but so far the problem isn't solved.
The Wheelbase is mounted on a Table Clamp.
Edit: When i just press buttons and look for the input in the Fanatec driver, every input works without any lags so it's just only ingame. I guess it has to do with the force that is applied while driving so it maybe disconnects the wheel idk
Comments
it's some sort of new phenomenon in CSL DD that I haven't heard before
but one or another way it sounds like hardware failure
CSL DD with QR1 or QR2, still use the same type of mounting system for the Steering wheel shaft to slide into Motor shaft with an external clamp to secure the two together and connect to a USB-C internal connector inside the motor, the clamp can be not tight enough to hold that shaft and allow it to slip out by a millimeter or more and will introduce problems with loss of FFB, button functions and other random issues.
The QR2 is a much better system all round but the shaft design can still create the same problems, hopefully you also have the double bolt clamp that replaced the notoriously bad single bolt clamp design, either way better, to un-clamp shaft make sure it is pushed all the way in flush with end of motor shaft and re-clamp with very tight 15nm pressure (Plenty of videos on youtube on how to do it).
Also check the steering wheels shaft inside the QR2 were the connector pins are and see if has the new black plastic spacer (Not metal shim) and correct screws that don't protude, they should all be flush with the base of the pins. (Highly unlikely to be incorrect, but you never know with Fanatec QC)
Unlikely to help, but another user that used a table clamp (Fanatec I assume) also had issues because of the that table clamp being to tight or something to that effect (Couldn't see why it would, might flex the base or circuitry in some way but just thought I would mention it).
Show QR1 but is still relevant to QR2.
https://forum.fanatec.com/discussion/24646/sudden-loss-of-connection-to-csl-dd-and-wheel
if this is true, i'm really not sure what are people doing with they own hardware, i have CSL DD like over year now without any shaft loose
only what i think of this, maybe the steering wheel is way too far away from hands and they just pulling the shaft out
for example this, it does feel like hands are too far away
and max hands