Fanatec Beta Driver V311 for CSW V1, CSW V2, CSW V2.5, CSL E WB, CSL E PS4, CSL E RMcL

edited May 2018 in Beta drivers

This is the latest BETA driver/firmware package for our current product line-up. Please only use this new test software if you have extended knowledge about your Fanatec devices, driver and firmware installation processes. You should be capable of reverting driver/firmware versions if you are having issues AFTER you provided such important feedback.

There is no official support for beta software. Please post your results in this forum thread!

VERSIONS: BETA
          Fanatec_32_driver_311 (dual-signed)
          Fanatec_64_driver_311 (dual-signed)
DATE: 05/16/2018
CHANGES :
1. Bug fixed minor display issue in the Control Panel when turning the rotary encoder.
2. Updated RMCL pictures in the driver control panel.
3. Firmwares included:
   - CSW V1 Base : CSW_Base_V472_rev1282_app (NEW)
   - CSW V2 Base : CSW_V2_Base_V473_rev1282_app (NEW)
   - CSW V2.5 Base : CSW_V2_5_Base_V474_rev1282_app (NEW)
   - CSL E Base : CSL_E_Base_V475_rev1282_app (NEW)
   - CSL E Base PS4 : CSL_E_PS4_Base_V476_rev1282_app (NEW)
   - RMCL : RMcL_V25_rev27 (NEW)

New features for CSL E RMcL:

Advanced Clutch Bite Point function (Clutch mode A)

If you do nothing, the feature remains the same as it was before. Fully pull both clutch paddles all the way. Hold one paddle at the optimal clutch bite point that you have determined in earlier tests.

The Advanced feature gives you the possibility to store your favourite bite points in each of the five settings (tuning menu now immediately shows you which setting is active)

The handling is a little bit different:

First determine and set the clutch bite point: put the car on an empty track. Put in 1st gear, push throttle while holding either one paddle all the way.

Activate setup mode by pushing the FunkySwitch up or down (still hold the one clutch paddle during the whole procedure, it will not work as the clutch in this case, but keep the setup mode active)

find your clutch bite point by turning the FunkySwitch. The clutch value on the display, is also sent to the car and it will start moving when the clutch bites.

As soon as you release the clutch paddle, the value is stored.

Use in game:

Pull both paddles: the clutch is fully pressed. The display shows your previously set bite point

On green light fully release one paddle while still holding the other fully pressed. The clutch of the car is immediately set to your preset value

release the paddle slowly to fully release the clutch (you have now full travel of the paddle for this!)

Centre fading issue on CSL E WB/ CSL E WB PS4

This issue is actually not related to the McLaren wheel, but was introduced when developing new firmware for it.

In some wheel bases the wheel center travels gradually in one direction and after a while you will need to hold the wheel at an angle to go straight.

If you have encountered this issue (only on CSL bases), please check whether it still occurs with this firmware.

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Comments

  • Nice i cant wait to test this on the CSW v2.5 .... The Clutch bite point Notes look Very Promising =D>
  • CSL elite ps4 wheelbase with its orginal rim. Installed the new driver and updated the firmware of the base. Played couple of sessions in project cars 2 pc. Centering issues are gone!! And another impression - I think that ffb of small details (track surface) feels a bit more pronounced than before.
  • I think that ffb of small details (track surface) feels a bit more pronounced than before.
    CSW v2.5 I also agree that the Smaller more Subtle FFB EX: Tire Scrub etc...feel is more pronounced. FW Feels Very Good PC with Race Room and PCars2.
  • Well I thought this update might fix my issue of getting the McLaren wheel to the current firmware, but no luck.

  • bonjour mon probleme n,ai pas resolu sur l,ecran du volant la 6iem vitesse affiche toujour N  au lieu de 6 MERCI
  • Well I thought this update might fix my issue of getting the McLaren wheel to the current firmware, but no luck.

    Could you share what is your issue with McLaren rim?

    I had some problems with paddles ceasing to work and wheel entering Xbox mode randomly, but after I tightened hub screws I saw no issues yet.  I am not entirely sure it is coincidence or problem is fixed yet.  Still, very afraid to use this rim during next Sunday race.
  • Yes I tried tightening the center screws as well but no luck. When i attempt to update the wheel rim itself, let me add after updating the base first, I never get the wheel update window to pop up allowing me to connect, flash and update the rim. I am on my second wheel, I have tried using a different PC and had completely deleted the driver app and reinstalled and attempted to update, but still the same issue, I can't update past firmware 19 and wheel is very unstable to use in a race so it is just wall art for now. My V.2 Base works fine with my Uni-Hub, but it is now making a strange clicking sound when turning it to the right against FF so I am going to have to RMA the base and hope the update issue is in the base also which I will send in as soon as the used base I bought on ebay arrives, don't want to lose Championship points do to no wheel.
  • Well I thought this update might fix my issue of getting the McLaren wheel to the current firmware, but no luck.

    Could you share what is your issue with McLaren rim?

    I had some problems with paddles ceasing to work and wheel entering Xbox mode randomly, but after I tightened hub screws I saw no issues yet.  I am not entirely sure it is coincidence or problem is fixed yet.  Still, very afraid to use this rim during next Sunday race.
    If tightening the screws worked then your Good!!!! I had the same issue with all 2 of My Rims the Porsche and Forza Rim with HUB a Few times a Few months apart... The Center Screw works its way lose.... I took the center screw out and put a tad bit of Blue locktight on it and they Never worked themselves lose again.... I did My F1 Rim and Mclaren Rim soon as i got it... Nope I didnt even run a Race with it as i changed to the CSW QR i put Blue Loctight on the McClaren Middle Screw also!!! in My case they always work lose after a few months so i put blueloctight on the center screw from the start because it always happens in in the Middle of a online race at the worst time!!! the McClaren is My 4th rim but i havent had a problem with the center screw coming lose with the other 3 rims in over 2 1/2 years So Far.... I Race 4 to 5 hours most weeks day and as much as i can on weekends so My wheel and rims always get Heavy use. CSW v2.5 base
  • ok, am just downloading and ready to give it a go
  • If tightening the screws worked then your Good!!!! I had the same issue with all 2 of My Rims the Porsche and Forza Rim with HUB a Few times a Few months apart... The Center Screw works its way lose.... I took the center screw out and put a tad bit of Blue locktight on it and they Never worked themselves lose again.... I did My F1 Rim and Mclaren Rim soon as i got it... Nope I didnt even run a Race with it as i changed to the CSW QR i put Blue Loctight on the McClaren Middle Screw also!!! in My case they always work lose after a few months so i put blueloctight on the center screw from the start because it always happens in in the Middle of a online race at the worst time!!! the McClaren is My 4th rim but i havent had a problem with the center screw coming lose with the other 3 rims in over 2 1/2 years So Far.... I Race 4 to 5 hours most weeks day and as much as i can on weekends so My wheel and rims always get Heavy use. CSW v2.5 base
    I appreciate you sharing this.  What were the effects of screws becoming lose?  You ever got buttons triggering by themselves, or paddles not working all of a sudden?

    Just checked the center screw of McLaren rim, it cannot be tightened, almost like thread is broken even though I did not touch it.  I'll see if problems still persist and will RMA, never had problems with F1/BMW rims, so at least I know it is not the base.
  • Well! First, my wheel and QR arrived today (Australia). All the excitement for months burst today - it's so beautiful, and so perfect to drive with. It's the only wheel you need. Good job Fanatec. Worth every cent. I think it's Fanatec's best wheel.

    Loaded up the 311's a few days ago and on the 2.5 base and Clubsport wheel felt about the same as 310, but had only played PC2 with it not AC so can't say for sure.

    The big thing is obviously the new clutch system and it's absolutely fantastic. Works like a dream. You need to do quite a bit of trial and error with each car and game to get it exactly right, and I'm still not quite there but the way you set it up and the 0-100 granular control mean you can get it just right. Even fudging around with near-enough settings works wonders. The launch system itself - release one paddle then ease the other out - is perfect.

    I don't want to tell my league I have one of these, they'll cry about unfair advantage :)
  • edited May 2018
    @Vytautas Leonavicius The affects were wheel base would stay powered on but wheel Buttons, FFB and pedals would go Dead in certain corners then would come back after a Second or 2.... I invsetigated to Make all My settings to be sure it was Not FFB Clipping then started trouble shooting My equipment and Found that the Small center allen key Screws on the 2 rims i used the most was lose... I tightened them up and all was Good for a few months then the same problem started happening again... after about 3× same issue i put a tad bit of blueloctight on the center screws and Never had the issue again... Its been about 2 1/2 Years Now since i had any issue with the center screw getting lose.... Im pretty sure i wont have that issue any more. Its a Longer screw than you think... its probaby 3/4ths of a inch long and its Metric threads so its going to take more than a few turns to snug it up depending on how lose the screw is... Keep turning until you feel it get snug.
  • Well! First, my wheel and QR arrived today (Australia). All the excitement for months burst today - it's so beautiful, and so perfect to drive with. It's the only wheel you need. Good job Fanatec. Worth every cent. I think it's Fanatec's best wheel.

    Loaded up the 311's a few days ago and on the 2.5 base and Clubsport wheel felt about the same as 310, but had only played PC2 with it not AC so can't say for sure.

    The big thing is obviously the new clutch system and it's absolutely fantastic. Works like a dream. You need to do quite a bit of trial and error with each car and game to get it exactly right, and I'm still not quite there but the way you set it up and the 0-100 granular control mean you can get it just right. Even fudging around with near-enough settings works wonders. The launch system itself - release one paddle then ease the other out - is perfect.

    I don't want to tell my league I have one of these, they'll cry about unfair advantage :)
    If you think the wheel feels Great with Pcars2 and AC you should try it with Race Room and rF2 on PC!!!.... My only prob is getting used to the smaller Rim size 30cm VS the Forza Rim w/Hub 33cm ... Because of the smaller rim size( = Quicker turning radius) i find Myself Scrubbing the tires more in corners but thats just from Muscle memory from driving the same cars with the bigger round rim... If i drive cars i dont know well all feels well..... The Paddle shifter feel is GREAT!!! I use 1 paddle for Look Back and other for flash lights <--- This works Great when Racing in VR!!!
  • Rami AholaRami Ahola Member
    edited May 2018
    Is previous fw's proiblems with v2 fixed in this? Worse ffb, messed up drift settings etc? That's why 310 was unusable, had to go back to 292.
  • Pavel StoikoPavel Stoiko Member
    edited May 2018
    Hey all. when i try to update motor Firmware of  my v2.5 it's tells me that is older then installed.. Base is new, maybe 1 week old. Should i update anyway? and also how its possible?
  • Hey all. when i try to update motor Firmware of  my v2.5 it's tells me that is older then installed.. Base is new, maybe 1 week old. Should i update anyway? and also how its possible?
    Yep!!! I have same issue.. and expect same answer too... :)
  • All is fine with the Motor update... Nothing to be done. its telling you your Motor FW is Current and same as the FW in update pakage.... I asked same question even if you update Motor FW right Now when you check it 1 minute after update completes you will get same Notification about on wheel FW being Newer Version.
  • All is fine with the Motor update... Nothing to be done. its telling you your Motor FW is Current and same as the FW in update pakage.... I asked same question even if you update Motor FW right Now when you check it 1 minute after update completes you will get same Notification about on wheel FW being Newer Version.
    ok!! :) Thank you  for the udate! :)
  • Rami AholaRami Ahola Member
    edited May 2018
    Is previous fw's proiblems with v2 fixed in this? Worse ffb, messed up drift settings etc? That's why 310 was unusable, had to go back to 292.
    Sadly there seem to still be those same problems with CSW v2 as was with 310. Seems that I have to go back to 292 again. Kinda problematic if I purchase Mcl rim and it need these newer drivers/fw's...
  • Gökhan OgulGökhan Ogul Member
    edited May 2018
    with new beta my csl elite rw PS4 works correctly again and the middle position is always on zero. The driver 310 was buggy since update.
  • it could be just Me but it seem that the XB1 Hub and Forza Rim Seem to carry and deliver the Smaller Vibrations better than the McClaren Rim.... For Me the McClaren Rim is Very Nice and has a Good Direct FFB Feel but the Smaller Higher tone Vibrations get Dampened out by the Plastic EX: Tire Scrub and Engin Vibrations --> Even My Buttkickers seem to Reverberate through the XB1 Hub w/Forza rim better because its mostly Metal.
  • with new beta my csl elite rw PS4 works correctly again and the middle position is always on zero. The driver 310 was buggy since update.
    Same here!
  • Joseph GossenJoseph Gossen Member, Moderator
    it could be just Me but it seem that the XB1 Hub and Forza Rim Seem to carry and deliver the Smaller Vibrations better than the McClaren Rim.... For Me the McClaren Rim is Very Nice and has a Good Direct FFB Feel but the Smaller Higher tone Vibrations get Dampened out by the Plastic EX: Tire Scrub and Engin Vibrations --> Even My Buttkickers seem to Reverberate through the XB1 Hub w/Forza rim better because its mostly Metal.
    I agree totally Lorell. I switched back to my Hub and Rim and noticed that exact difference in feel.
  • I did mention this before with Driver v310, I have the same problem in Driver v311 (see picture) I have rolled back to Driver v292 and these switches work fine again...BTW: The hub I'm using is one of the first ones (NOT for Xbox) I have two hubs and three spare switch boxes that I have tested this with, I don't see anyone else has reported the same problem..Thanks :)

    Steve 
  • Thomas/Tanatec Team is it possible to get Normalization between the Xbox1 Hub and McClaren Rim for PC??? Example button A = A , X = X , RSB = RSB,  LSB = LSB ETC on both rims in Future FW ...when i use the rims on PC the buttons Never line up so every time i want to change rims i have to remap all the buttons.
  • Hey Guys. My new issue... I set wheel sens to 720° in wheel and in control panel. Everytime i power the wheel on i have to correct manually from 900° to 720° in control panel. So, in wheel profile constant 720 but in Control Panel/App not saved after power off....
    Best Regards
  • I did mention this before with Driver v310, I have the same problem in Driver v311 (see picture) I have rolled back to Driver v292 and these switches work fine again...BTW: The hub I'm using is one of the first ones (NOT for Xbox) I have two hubs and three spare switch boxes that I have tested this with, I don't see anyone else has reported the same problem..Thanks :)

    Steve 
    Hi, Have same problem on my CSW V2 with hub with 310 445 firmware, how can resolve it? thanks
  • I did mention this before with Driver v310, I have the same problem in Driver v311 (see picture) I have rolled back to Driver v292 and these switches work fine again...BTW: The hub I'm using is one of the first ones (NOT for Xbox) I have two hubs and three spare switch boxes that I have tested this with, I don't see anyone else has reported the same problem..Thanks :)

    Steve 
    Hi, Have same problem on my CSW V2 with hub with 310 445 firmware, how can resolve it? thanks
    The best I can say, roll back to the v292 or whatever your last driver was when it worked, for the time being :)
  • I had the same issues, my 5th button box stopped working. I have contacted Support on this issues and they are working on a fix, but for now it's recommended to use an older version until sorted.
  • edited June 2018
    Hi friends.

    I have been using driver 310 + firm 446 on my CSL Elite + P1 Rim for a month, but yesterday I return to 293 + 336, because drift mode and FEI wasn't working as it must.

    I expect these are fixed in next versions.

    One question: was the bug making the fan of CSL Elite turn at top speed under 15º celsius fixed? If not, will it be in next version?

    Many thanks.

This discussion has been closed.