Hello everyone, I currently use the V330 version on my CSL Elite Wheel Base PS4 V641 + Motor Driver v22 so far it goes without any problem but I see that came out the V332 Beta what are the changes of this new version? and is it compatible with my CSL Elite Wheel Base PS4?
regards for all
Some administrator that can answer my query please
330 installed with my CSWB 2.5+bmw wheel+cs pedals v3+handbrake
no problem at all
but one question :
Can I use this driver package for my DD2 ?
If yes, what about firmware ?
Your DD will come end of this month so I would suggest to use the driver and firmware which will be available at the product page at the end of this month.
(No disrespect Maurice Boschen
unless you work for Fanatec and have Authority with confirmed test
results please don't answer... I would like a Fanatec person to Give an
Official answer.)
Can you Make a Clear test and post how is best to set the FFB Strength...This may clear up much confusion and wheel DR/FW problems,Issues,Questions.
Fact--> with Fanatec wheels the wheel FFB strength is set through the wheel base ( Unlike other wheels with Fanatec wheels there is No FFB strength adjustment in PC control panel Nor is there a Strength adjustment on console either) So it seems that the On wheel FFB strength setting is the Master/ Final at wheel strength setting.
My Question is What is the best way to adjust the at the wheel FFB strength???
1) Game Master FFB be set to 100 and reduce the on wheel FFB until at the wheel FFB strength feels the way you like it.
or
2) Is it best to reduce the in Game Master FFB??? and set on wheel FFB to 100%
CSW v2.5 IMO from My testing they both feel the basically same although i do Notice
Game tested Race Room , Car tested Gt3 AMG Mercedes, Tracks Monza, Laguna Seca,
when I set on wheel to 100% and adjust FFB in game Master FFB accordingly to adjust at the wheel FFB strength i Can notice a Slightly More Notchy FFB Feel but i think i can tune it out by readjusting other game FFB settings.
vs
Setting On wheel FFB to 50 which allows Me to + or - on the fly to taste depending on Car/Game with Game master FFB 100%(always)
the Notchy feel is not Noticeable.
As technology advances Sim racing Wheels and Games are being developed to deliver More FFB Fidelity and Higher levels of
Torque a New updated guide on how to get the best out of your Fanatec
equipment according to today's equipment would be very relevant.
(No disrespect Maurice Boschen
unless you work for Fanatec and have Authority with confirmed test
results please don't answer... I would like a Fanatec person to Give an
Official answer.)
Can you Make a Clear test and post how is best to set the FFB Strength...This may clear up much confusion and wheel DR/FW problems,Issues,Questions.
Fact--> with Fanatec wheels the wheel FFB strength is set through the wheel base ( Unlike other wheels with Fanatec wheels there is No FFB strength adjustment in PC control panel Nor is there a Strength adjustment on console either) So it seems that the On wheel FFB strength setting is the Master/ Final at wheel strength setting.
My Question is What is the best way to adjust the at the wheel FFB strength???
1) Game Master FFB be set to 100 and reduce the on wheel FFB until at the wheel FFB strength feels the way you like it.
or
2) Is it best to reduce the in Game Master FFB??? and set on wheel FFB to 100%
CSW v2.5 IMO from My testing they both feel the basically same although i do Notice
Game tested Race Room , Car tested Gt3 AMG Mercedes, Tracks Monza, Laguna Seca,
when I set on wheel to 100% and adjust FFB in game Master FFB accordingly to adjust at the wheel FFB strength i Can notice a Slightly More Notchy FFB Feel but i think i can tune it out by readjusting other game FFB settings.
vs
Setting On wheel FFB to 50 which allows Me to + or - on the fly to taste depending on Car/Game with Game master FFB 100%(always)
the Notchy feel is not Noticeable.
As technology advances Sim racing Wheels and Games are being developed to deliver More FFB Fidelity and Higher levels of
Torque a New updated guide on how to get the best out of your Fanatec
equipment according to today's equipment would be very relevant.
I need to test, measure and experiment more but I like to use something in between.
First I reduce the in-game gain until it's not clipping anymore according to feel or look at a clipping meter the game might offer (AC and ACC it's 60 for example).
Then I reduce the Base FFB until I think the force is right because only reducing the game FFB should theoretically reduce the FFB resolution because the signal send varies between 0 and 10.000, so a gain of 30% cuts the possible increments to 3.000 which is roughly a third of the resolution then. It felt better to me personally but I've already heard that others don't like it and have their doubts.
So I need to investigate more, in theory it shouldn't make much of a difference but who knows maybe the FFB is not as linear with reduced FF settings of either game or wheel.
In general I would say it's up to personal opinion, try both and keep what you've liked more.
Great firmware: no belt drag (with drift mode off), BUT it's a pitty for the notchy mechanical feeling mentioned by other users, in the center dead zone.
Not useful for me, so I return to the best combo for this wheel (in my opinion): firm 336 + driver 328 (with drift mode set to 3).
I just noticed that on the CSW v2 coming from firmware 473 to firmware 638 that the settings for FOR, SPR and DPR have a lower upper limit of 120% instead of 150% since basically the beta days. Is there a profound reasoning for this?
I just noticed that on the CSW v2 coming from firmware 473 to firmware 638 that the settings for FOR, SPR and DPR have a lower upper limit of 120% instead of 150% since basically the beta days. Is there a profound reasoning for this?
Everything above 100 will result in clipping and a loss of information, it's only good for a workaround if really something is too weak. Used wrong it will cause bad FFB behavior and overheating.
I just noticed that on the CSW v2 coming from firmware 473 to firmware 638 that the settings for FOR, SPR and DPR have a lower upper limit of 120% instead of 150% since basically the beta days. Is there a profound reasoning for this?
Everything above 100 will result in clipping and a loss of information, it's only good for a workaround if really something is too weak. Used wrong it will cause bad FFB behavior and overheating.
Used wrongly indeed. Which I guess was an event that happened more often than desirable, and thus causing either damage to the products or just a bad product image as people just set their gear up wrong.
Let's just say that in that last case it's like the following example. A long time acoustic guitarist with no sense for anything electronic who just wants a clean sound, buys a Marshall amp that goes up to 11 and starts to complain later that his sound sounds horribly distorted and that's not what he payed for. Yet he refuses to believe the shop staff when they tell him he set his gear up wrong.
So yeah, definitely the new limitations in the tuning menu will help with providing a better experience down the line.
Personally though, I used it a lot in Project CARS because the dynamic range is limited and I just loved that on the fly turn of a knob change to my FFB. Which if you jump from car to car like I do usually can go from weak to strong and vice versa. I will try to adapt my ways, or maybe this will be a good time to consider an upgrade.
Great firmware: no belt drag (with drift mode off), BUT it's a pitty for the notchy mechanical feeling mentioned by other users, in the center dead zone.
Not useful for me, so I return to the best combo for this wheel (in my opinion): firm 336 + driver 328 (with drift mode set to 3).
Thanks.
Hello again.
After giving it a try to this new firm, I saw the "notchy" feeling comes from the absence of dampening (I use my CSL with damper set to 0).
I understand the concept of this new firm, free of drag on belt, but needing damper to turn.
Any news on the work around for the CSW v2 to get the flag lights working?
The should work if you use SLImaxManager. Please try it and give us some feedback.
I am using driver 332 and when I perform a test using SLIMaxManager the flag lights do not work. I thought there was a bandwidth issue where Fanatec were identifying a solution?
The shift lights and display work.
I would be happy to test any updates you have or other driver versions, but I believe none of the current ones work... it is one of the first things I test.
And any eta when drift-setting problem with CSW v2 and drivers(and their fw's) over 292 are sorted? Even that I've been using v328 driver and fw from it for an long time, it's quite shame that drift settings are no-go or how they feel. But if I use Drive hub in the middle(XbX or PS4), then drift settings are just like earlier.
About that force over 100%, with Dirt 2.0(Xbox One X), even 150 isn't enough to get decent driving road-ffb, but of course that's due cm's crappy developers, not F's fault. One problem there is with putting force so high, every collision or driving over bridges/drainpipes feel like you wheel will break, those effects are then so overenhanced.
On the other hand, Dirt 1 had/has nice and tactile road feel, so it's hard to understand how the mess that up.
Any news on the work around for the CSW v2 to get the flag lights working?
The should work if you use SLImaxManager. Please try it and give us some feedback.
I am using driver 332 and when I perform a test using SLIMaxManager the flag lights do not work. I thought there was a bandwidth issue where Fanatec were identifying a solution?
The shift lights and display work.
I would be happy to test any updates you have or other driver versions, but I believe none of the current ones work... it is one of the first things I test.
Attached is a beta firmware file for the which adds RGB/Flag LED support for the CSW V2. Install driver 335 first which is also attached, then flash the firmware. In general this adds support and will work with SLI max when the newest SDK is implemented. We will try to have a complete driver package soon and then I will put a link to the new discussion here.
Edit: untested right now, probably needs a new SDK first.
Any news on the work around for the CSW v2 to get the flag lights working?
The should work if you use SLImaxManager. Please try it and give us some feedback.
I am using driver 332 and when I perform a test using SLIMaxManager the flag lights do not work. I thought there was a bandwidth issue where Fanatec were identifying a solution?
The shift lights and display work.
I would be happy to test any updates you have or other driver versions, but I believe none of the current ones work... it is one of the first things I test.
Attached is a beta firmware file for the which adds RGB/Flag LED support for the CSW V2. Install driver 335 first which is also attached, then flash the firmware. In general this adds support and will work with SLI max when the newest SDK is implemented. We will try to have a complete driver package soon and then I will put a link to the new discussion here.
Edit: untested right now, probably needs a new SDK first.
question, this driver 335 it's compatible with CSL Elite PS4 and the last any change log?
Any news on the work around for the CSW v2 to get the flag lights working?
The should work if you use SLImaxManager. Please try it and give us some feedback.
I am using driver 332 and when I perform a test using SLIMaxManager the flag lights do not work. I thought there was a bandwidth issue where Fanatec were identifying a solution?
The shift lights and display work.
I would be happy to test any updates you have or other driver versions, but I believe none of the current ones work... it is one of the first things I test.
Attached is a beta firmware file for the which adds RGB/Flag LED support for the CSW V2. Install driver 335 first which is also attached, then flash the firmware. In general this adds support and will work with SLI max when the newest SDK is implemented. We will try to have a complete driver package soon and then I will put a link to the new discussion here.
Edit: untested right now, probably needs a new SDK first.
Hi Marcel,
I have installed the pc driver and CSW firmware, but I cannot seem to be able get the flag lights to work with either SLIMax or the LED Test in the Fanatec Wheel Properties app. I assume the LEDs need to at least light up from the Steering Wheel LEDs Test in that app before they will work elsewhere?
The only pc firmware I have successfully seen the lights work with was v327, which I also tested tonight and they still light up white using that version and only through properties app.
So I flashed back to 311 and the issue went away. Also the centre grinding/notchy feel has gone also.. @Marcel - is there a version of the CSL Elite FW that feels the same as 311, but supports the F1 V2 rim???
Has the double up/downshift issue with the McLaren wheel officially been resolved? I still have it when I use any WB FW higher than 475 (CSL Elite PC/XBox Version).
Has the double up/downshift issue with the McLaren wheel officially been resolved? I still have it when I use any WB FW higher than 475 (CSL Elite PC/XBox Version).
Comments
As technology advances Sim racing Wheels and Games are being developed to deliver More FFB Fidelity and Higher levels of Torque a New updated guide on how to get the best out of your Fanatec equipment according to today's equipment would be very relevant.
Let's just say that in that last case it's like the following example. A long time acoustic guitarist with no sense for anything electronic who just wants a clean sound, buys a Marshall amp that goes up to 11 and starts to complain later that his sound sounds horribly distorted and that's not what he payed for. Yet he refuses to believe the shop staff when they tell him he set his gear up wrong.
So yeah, definitely the new limitations in the tuning menu will help with providing a better experience down the line.
Personally though, I used it a lot in Project CARS because the dynamic range is limited and I just loved that on the fly turn of a knob change to my FFB. Which if you jump from car to car like I do usually can go from weak to strong and vice versa.
I will try to adapt my ways, or maybe this will be a good time to consider an upgrade.