I have the GT DD PRO 8Nm with the latest firmware. I set the recommended settings from teh front page for the CSL DD in Comp mode.
I get almost no feed back in the wheel with these game settings.
one question: you have to enable the post processing check box to get teh Gamma settings. Gamma is a % setting and at 1% the vibration at idle is violent. Should this be at a higher setting?
I'm using Content manager and a CSL DD. The initial steering is nice and heavy but mid corner when using more lock or all the slow speed corners the steering goes very light. It will go from say 8nm of force to about 2nm. I have tried the recommended settings.
At slow speed just turning normally (not pushing or understeering) it's like there is no resistance. I've raced full size cars and they have never felt like that
I was off simracing for about 3 years now and been trying to get everything working back again. Drivers updated on CSL Elite xbox (using on pc thoguh) but i'm missing the on wheel settings. I only have SEN and FF. Dont have FOR, and the others, i can't remeber their names. Help!
I have a GT DD Pro kit with 8Nm boost kit and F1 wheel. After reading this thread and experimenting with the settings i have the FFB dialed in to my liking.
There's only one thing that i can't figure out.
I'm driving the Nordschleife in AC and for some reason there is no FFB in the center to about 20 deg left and right, also on high speed. Then the FFB kicks in and feels a bit rumbly when you "lean" the wheel into the FFB. It just feels unnatural.
What i'd like is the FFB start at min level right at the center and gently build up to max, as you turn the wheel.
Can someone help me understand what's happening here?
First time posting on here. I've had my DD1 for some time now. I used to have content manager but uninstalled six or so months ago.
I've reinstalled it and it feels really good 'I'm using the settings I had before I uninstallled.' However om finding that I'm not getting much feel when the wheel is in the central position. It's not until I start to turn that I get any feeling.
I have the 1080 sensitivity on the base and in game and have no inngamw filters on but it still feels a little bit lacking. I know FFB is subjective but does anyone have a base setting or decent feeling setup?
The recommended settings here for PC Assetto Corsa (CSL DD 8nm) weren't really doing it for me at all. Especially once I moved on to playing a bit of ACC and they were a world apart in terms of feedback strength.
I found a YouTube video which I'm using instead for AC and finding it much better. The settings are quite different to what was suggested here. Here's the YouTube link: https://youtu.be/ksQ0PqvZBlM
I've also pasted my settings below. N.B. I use AC Content Manager, so I was always a little unsure of some of the settings mentioned here, but the video is very clear and uses Content Manager.
Feels significantly better to me now, but I'm open to suggestion if someone thinks I might be missing out on detail due to a certain setting as I don't fully understand them all yet.
N.B. I did notice significant oscillation when I tried a McLaren F1 GTR. I wouldn't be surprised if I got it in high downforce cars. There was none when test driving a Lotus Exige.
One question I have for anybody that can answer. What is the difference between PC mode and Compatibility mode. I've never noticed a difference in the main SIM's
Red and green light.. I understand older games may need compatibility mode but is that even true for new games does it "unlock" something, is it something me and the above chap are missing??
Compatibility only changes the Devices Identity and nothing else to one that the game recognises.
ie: A 10-15 year old games don't know what a Direct Drive DD1, DD2 or CSL-DD, etc are because they weren't produced that far back, but a Clubsport Wheel v1, v2.5, CSL Elite where, so when you change it to a compatible mode, it will identify as a CSW v2.5 to the old game and it can work with that. It could also change it into PS4 or Xbox mode depending on motor model.
Hi! I have got the CSL DD 8nm, but some of these settings are not present in the Fanatec control panel-tuning menu:
-BLI User Preference
-SHO 100
-BRF User Preference
And question number two, three and four are: How and where activate "compatibility" mode? Are these settings only for the standard 5nm kit, or can i apply the same? And why can't i change the flipper function?
" Hi! I have got the CSL DD 8nm, but some of these settings are not present in the Fanatec control panel-tuning menu:
-BLI User Preference
-SHO 100
-BRF User Preference "
1) Not showing -BLI and -BRF as they are only for load cell brake pedals (When to vibrate motor on brake pedal and how hard you have to press the brake pedal) and also -SHO if for vibration motors in steering wheels that have them or it is just being cut off at the bottom of the device page.
2) Compatibility mode is shown on the CLS DD base power switch and is changed on your wheel by: Short press buttons N + Y. (Green = Xbox, Red = PC, Blue = Playstation, Yellow = CSW v2.5)
3) Same applies to 5 or 8nm CSL DD.
4) Reassigning the flippers is done with the middle rotary on the McClaren Wheel and will change appropriately in the Fanatec control panel.
All this is answered in the manual that should have been supplied with the wheel, or you could have downloaded from Fanatec site.
No clipping at all on a DD1 (Capable of 15Nm in linear mode), only way it would clip is if you raise the Gain in AC to 75 or above.
ie: DD1 base with F1 wheel at 50% is only 7.5nm max and 50% gain from AC is only ever going to make the FFB meter in game go between 25 - 50% never 100% so not clipping.
If you up the AC gain to 75% and leave DD base at 50% you will get clipping, so you could raise the base FFB to between 60-100 (9nm - 15nm) but then the steering in game is getting too strong for me to race correctly, ymmv.
You basically can't clip unless you allow your game gain to be set too high compared to your Wheel bases Nm.
I find across most of my car games having the Game Gain high and my DD1 Base FFB Low gives me better feedback when racing than having the game Gain low and DD1 base high as most experts recommend.
The higher the in Game Gain, the lower the setting for Kerb=50, ABS=50 and Slip=50, also modify DD1 NDP=10 to 25 or visa versa.
Comments
I have the GT DD PRO 8Nm with the latest firmware. I set the recommended settings from teh front page for the CSL DD in Comp mode.
I get almost no feed back in the wheel with these game settings.
one question: you have to enable the post processing check box to get teh Gamma settings. Gamma is a % setting and at 1% the vibration at idle is violent. Should this be at a higher setting?
I'd have to double check as I'm not near my rig atm, but I'm pretty sure you DON'T want to use any kind of FFB post-processing/ gamma settings.
Are you using Content Manager?
Hi all
I'm using Content manager and a CSL DD. The initial steering is nice and heavy but mid corner when using more lock or all the slow speed corners the steering goes very light. It will go from say 8nm of force to about 2nm. I have tried the recommended settings.
Any ideas?
Thanks
Sounds normal, actually. Sounds like you're carrying too much speed into the corner and the wheel goes light because you're understeering.
At slow speed just turning normally (not pushing or understeering) it's like there is no resistance. I've raced full size cars and they have never felt like that
Hello everyone.
I was off simracing for about 3 years now and been trying to get everything working back again. Drivers updated on CSL Elite xbox (using on pc thoguh) but i'm missing the on wheel settings. I only have SEN and FF. Dont have FOR, and the others, i can't remeber their names. Help!
You are in the new Standard Tuning Menu with limited settings.
To switch to Advanced Tuning Menu with all the settings you need to open the Tuning Menu and then press the Tuning Menu Button for 3 seconds.
Thank you Maurice!🙏
Hello again.
Is the first post updated to this recent build?
It seems there are settings on the wheel that are not in the post and vice-versa.
Hey Mates…
does someone have 2022 latest driver FFB settings die the dd1 ?
something doesnt feel right… for example on the vrc alpha i cant feel the porpoising..
Hi Guys,
I have a GT DD Pro kit with 8Nm boost kit and F1 wheel. After reading this thread and experimenting with the settings i have the FFB dialed in to my liking.
There's only one thing that i can't figure out.
I'm driving the Nordschleife in AC and for some reason there is no FFB in the center to about 20 deg left and right, also on high speed. Then the FFB kicks in and feels a bit rumbly when you "lean" the wheel into the FFB. It just feels unnatural.
What i'd like is the FFB start at min level right at the center and gently build up to max, as you turn the wheel.
Can someone help me understand what's happening here?
Thanks a lot.
First time posting on here. I've had my DD1 for some time now. I used to have content manager but uninstalled six or so months ago.
I've reinstalled it and it feels really good 'I'm using the settings I had before I uninstallled.' However om finding that I'm not getting much feel when the wheel is in the central position. It's not until I start to turn that I get any feeling.
I have the 1080 sensitivity on the base and in game and have no inngamw filters on but it still feels a little bit lacking. I know FFB is subjective but does anyone have a base setting or decent feeling setup?
TIA if anyone does
What are the settings for the Gran Turismo DD Pro (with Clubsport Formula V2.5 Wheel)?
Same as for CSL DD posted in the first post of this thread.
Thanks a lot!
Do I also need to use the compatibility mode?
is it only me or was the First Post updated for the DD1 ??
i remember different values for NDP ,NIN and INT... also Fanalab Recommended settings show the (old?) settings...
can someone pls confirm ?
The recommended settings here for PC Assetto Corsa (CSL DD 8nm) weren't really doing it for me at all. Especially once I moved on to playing a bit of ACC and they were a world apart in terms of feedback strength.
I found a YouTube video which I'm using instead for AC and finding it much better. The settings are quite different to what was suggested here. Here's the YouTube link: https://youtu.be/ksQ0PqvZBlM
I've also pasted my settings below. N.B. I use AC Content Manager, so I was always a little unsure of some of the settings mentioned here, but the video is very clear and uses Content Manager.
Feels significantly better to me now, but I'm open to suggestion if someone thinks I might be missing out on detail due to a certain setting as I don't fully understand them all yet.
N.B. I did notice significant oscillation when I tried a McLaren F1 GTR. I wouldn't be surprised if I got it in high downforce cars. There was none when test driving a Lotus Exige.
Fanalab Settings:
AC Content Manager Settings:
Hello everyone,
I would like to share with you my settings on my DD1 mainly on assetto corsa and I would like you to give me your opinion.
I have been looking for a setting that is as natural as possible for several years.
I specify that I am French, the text is therefore translated by ggogle.
I am sending you screens of the steering wheel and the games.
Good day to all.
PS: FFB TWEAK DISABLED
I have csl dd 8nm. But having all those:
Kerb Effects: 0%
Road Effects: 0%
Slip Effects: 0%
ABS Effects: 0%
on 0, there is no feeling on the wheel when you drive on a curb, or if the road is not smooth. You dont feel anything
Hi All I would concur with Blaz above..
One question I have for anybody that can answer. What is the difference between PC mode and Compatibility mode. I've never noticed a difference in the main SIM's
Red and green light.. I understand older games may need compatibility mode but is that even true for new games does it "unlock" something, is it something me and the above chap are missing??
Many thanks in advance
Pete
Compatibility only changes the Devices Identity and nothing else to one that the game recognises.
ie: A 10-15 year old games don't know what a Direct Drive DD1, DD2 or CSL-DD, etc are because they weren't produced that far back, but a Clubsport Wheel v1, v2.5, CSL Elite where, so when you change it to a compatible mode, it will identify as a CSW v2.5 to the old game and it can work with that. It could also change it into PS4 or Xbox mode depending on motor model.
Hi! I have got the CSL DD 8nm, but some of these settings are not present in the Fanatec control panel-tuning menu:
-BLI User Preference
-SHO 100
-BRF User Preference
And question number two, three and four are: How and where activate "compatibility" mode? Are these settings only for the standard 5nm kit, or can i apply the same? And why can't i change the flipper function?
Thanks a lot with helping me out!
" Hi! I have got the CSL DD 8nm, but some of these settings are not present in the Fanatec control panel-tuning menu:
-BLI User Preference
-SHO 100
-BRF User Preference "
1) Not showing -BLI and -BRF as they are only for load cell brake pedals (When to vibrate motor on brake pedal and how hard you have to press the brake pedal) and also -SHO if for vibration motors in steering wheels that have them or it is just being cut off at the bottom of the device page.
2) Compatibility mode is shown on the CLS DD base power switch and is changed on your wheel by: Short press buttons N + Y. (Green = Xbox, Red = PC, Blue = Playstation, Yellow = CSW v2.5)
3) Same applies to 5 or 8nm CSL DD.
4) Reassigning the flippers is done with the middle rotary on the McClaren Wheel and will change appropriately in the Fanatec control panel.
All this is answered in the manual that should have been supplied with the wheel, or you could have downloaded from Fanatec site.
My recommendations:
In Game:
1) FFB gain: 50 - 60 (All DD bases)
2) Kerb Effects: 100% (Enhance the feeling of the kerbs to more realistic levels, you will know when your on them)
3) Enhanced Understeer: On (Good to feel the loss of traction in corners - Personal taste, helps beginners to use track limits)
4) If steering is too hard at speed in corners disable the AC standard "GYROSCOPIC EFFECT" or any other Damper or Dampening effects.
Fanatec Control Panel:
1) FFB: 50 - 100 (Set as strong as you can handle and based on base, wheel weight and size, ie 8nm, 10nm is usually adequate)
2) NDP=10, NFR=10, NIN=10 (Stops Oscillations without feeling mushy and loosing detail from suspension, tires and steering)
3) FOR=100, SPR=100, DPR=100 (Allow max Force and Damper, don't chop what is being supplied naturally from the game)
4) INT=1 and FEI=100 to have harsh ripple strip feeling (More realistic)
Do you have some clipping with that settings?
No clipping at all on a DD1 (Capable of 15Nm in linear mode), only way it would clip is if you raise the Gain in AC to 75 or above.
ie: DD1 base with F1 wheel at 50% is only 7.5nm max and 50% gain from AC is only ever going to make the FFB meter in game go between 25 - 50% never 100% so not clipping.
If you up the AC gain to 75% and leave DD base at 50% you will get clipping, so you could raise the base FFB to between 60-100 (9nm - 15nm) but then the steering in game is getting too strong for me to race correctly, ymmv.
You basically can't clip unless you allow your game gain to be set too high compared to your Wheel bases Nm.
I find across most of my car games having the Game Gain high and my DD1 Base FFB Low gives me better feedback when racing than having the game Gain low and DD1 base high as most experts recommend.
The higher the in Game Gain, the lower the setting for Kerb=50, ABS=50 and Slip=50, also modify DD1 NDP=10 to 25 or visa versa.