Hello, unfortunately for me this update does not allow me to play properly. I successfully updated the firmware and engine ok.
On Forza-motorsports 7 there are too many oscillations and a significant lack of feeling in the steering axis. There is also less vibration.
I tried several adjustments and despite that impossible to have good feelings and to attenuate the oscillations in a straight line which are dangerous limits.
Too bad because despite my negative experience guesses the potential of this improvement. Back for me in V347.
Don't know how to delete the above quotes I accidentally touched when scrolling through the pages of this thread, can't see any functionality to remove them on my phone. Anyway, moving on.
I went back to previous drivers and firmware as I was getting clunking and uncontrollable wheel rim motion in Raceroom when I hit drive, looking at all the comments I don't believe this version should have been released. Better to be safe than sorry.
Extremely stiff and notchy even with power disconnected. Thunks when powered on then nothing. Motor seems broken. Dunno.
I can't say conclusively it was 352, may be a coincidental dying of it at the time. But with all the reports of motor noises and stuff similar it seems unlikely. So, in my experience the new driver and fw killed my DD.
Thanks for the idea Stephen bit when you highlight the quote the pop up keypad disappears so you don't have anything to press to delete it. Seems like a pretty off oversight if there isn't a way to delete.
I'm posting from My phone and don't have My exact settings in front of Me to share ATM.
I can Make a Video Showing Race Room I can let the Wheel Go and No Oscillations and Jerky movements.
Did you use the New Controller profile??? The Old Controller file will Work But is No Good after RRE last update... The FFB will be way Off they changed a bunch if parameters in the file...Also using the Bew File any car they haven't adjusted Needs the In car FFB multiplier Reduced... Some Cars even as Low as 1.0!!!
"This heavy piece of solid metal is engineered with German precision and built to last for many years. The all-aluminium housing provides the rigidity needed to handle the high torque output. This is the last wheel base you’ll ever need."
I am unable to resolve the 100% fan bug. My DD2 motor firmware is stuck at v26. I've tried reinstalling the driver package and re-updating firmware several times, but the motor update does not work.
I have never seen these menus in the properties screen for my DD2. I always just get a generic game controller menu. Drivers seem to install, games work, and FanaLab beta installs and detects the wheel. However, as in my comment above, while I can update Wheel firmware, my motor firmware is stuck on v26. Any help?
Hi Lorrell, I used the recommended on abse and in game settings but I changed my existing in game settings to align with the new default ones.
This worked fine until I updated to v352 and the other new firmware as well, from that time on I had the turn off clunk and the wheel going mental in raceroom, no other sims.
Since I have changed back to v346 and the older firmware I don't have the turn off clunk anymore, or the crazy wheel rotation or the extra noise around the centre of the wheel. I think I will wait for a few fixes before I move on from 346
No. I've never ever used 100%. That would rip your arms off!
My standard FFB settings is 45... but as I mentioned in my original post, I wasn't even driving when they wheelbase failed. It was about 20 minutes after I'd been using it, though it was still powered up. Sounds like Ben, who posted info on his DD1 failure above, had exactly the same situation.
Do you have a wheel Rim on the base when you try to update motor FW??? If so take the wheel Off.. Restart the base then try.
I had to take My UHX/Xbox Hub off the wheel base to Flash motor Fw when I Rolled back to 346... I want to test to see if I hear any difference between how the DD2 sounds on 346 vs How it sounds on 352.
I'm using DD2 and very Rarely do I feel Need to turn On wheel FFB above 35%... That keeps Me Between 7 and 8Nm and Im fine with that.
Regarding Fw 346 vs 352.... I will say 352 feels stronger at on wheel 35% than 346... But that could be the Faster FFB Ramp up/ -23% Latency Reduction.
Thus Far I'm not noticing any Weird or Strange Noise differences between the 2.
346 still feels Spot on/Really Good but 352 does have more detailed subtle feel in the FFB.
Will the Podium Button Box Buttons and Display Work in Legacy Mode to at least show the Gear/ Speed for those that dont want to use Dr 352, Fw 669, Motor Fw 38?
I've tried it both with and without a wheel on the base. Didn't work.
To be clear - I've NEVER had a working Fanatec device control panel. I've been getting by through configuring the settings on wheel and manually running the firmware update tool from C:/Program Files/Fanatec/Fanatec Wheel/
Whenever I open 'Game Controllers' and click on the properties of my DD2 - I just get generic controller settings as if it were some random USB joystick.
I just spent the last two hours installing a Windows 10 virtual machine on my work Mac laptop - and hooking up my base to that. On that virtual machine the control panel installed correctly and I was able to update both the Wheelbase firmware and the Motor firmware.
I just don't want to have to do that every time there's a firmware update.
@Fanatec - how can I get the device control panel to actually work on my real Windows 10 machine?
We would be interested to know what the air gap tolerances are between the stator and rotor? What type of rolling elements are used on the motor and what type of lubricant is used? Ball? Roller? Insulated? Sealed? High temp?
Bearing failure is a common mode of failure for motors. If the sound is a result of bearing play, then Fanatec has used incredibly questionable bearings on their $1500 DD bases. Nobody here is going to tear apart their base to investigate the source and cause of the "thump bug" and Fanatec cannot afford my time to undertake a forensic investigation. Your technical teams should be able to grab a DD, put it on a test bench, place firmware 352/353 on it, and begin isolating components to determine the cause. SOOO many things you can do with SUPER quickly....I'm POSITIVE you have access to cheap strain guages, oscilloscopes, multimeters, etc. The investigation shouldn't take more than 4 hours by 1 person.
You should not speculate that this issue is mechanical in nature but the sound DEFINITELY is mechanical and NOT an electrical thermal magnetic sound from an eddy current or from magnetic hysteresis. Besides, it's obvious that mechanical motor noises would persist even when there is no power applied. The concerns I have read and experienced myself when I had 352 installed happened during power off. As that sound is induced when the stator is de-magnitized and no sound when the motor is unplugged, that alone should help your investigators focus on electrical.
Keep us posted and provide us a remedy. MANY people here see their DD base as a ONE-TIME special purchase.
Unfortunately, your DD is exhibiting symptoms of motor failure. You need to get in touch with Fanatec via e-mail and request a RMA. I think many people, including myself, would be interested to hear your journey through this process. Anecdotally, folks note they have been reasonable to deal with despite the slow response times. There was recently a post by Massimo about his CSL base faulting his PC, his PlayStation, and his TV...all of which are not destroyed because Fanatec sent him an untested power cabe. https://forum.fanatec.com/discussion/comment/36035#Comment_36035
You should keep some very tight documentation for your own benefit and for the prupose of your claim.
Delete the Fanatec Driver--> Then Search your controller profiles and delete the Fanatec Device Control panel USB driver for what ever Fanatec Gear you find.... Then Install the Fanatec Drivers page again When you hook up the wheel the PC should initialize and install the proper USB Driver for your wheel.
Totally agree, same here (DD1, Xbox One X, Forza 7, V352/V669)
I have played a lot with settings, but non of them gave me the direct and connected feeling which I had in V347. Since V352 my direct wheel feels indirect (sounds weird, but explains how it feels)
A Big Difference in a Good or Bad way??? Did the FFB get better with the Roll Back or did you lose some subtle feel..
Dr-346 feels Really Good and the steering seems tighter/ more accurate but thats probably because game may Not be updated to the New Fanatec SDK with higher/Fine steering ratio.
Dr-352 35% on wheel feels stronger than Dr-346 on wheel 35%....also 352 puts out more subtle detail--->more pronounced Tire Scrub and subtle stuff like that but steering feels smoother but Less Direct.
Comments
Thanks Maurice, checking it out!
Nice, thank you.
Forgive me, I just realized the message.
THX Rinus ,
Your tip work for me 😎
Base DD1 V352/V669
Xbox One X
Forza-motorsport 7
Hello, unfortunately for me this update does not allow me to play properly. I successfully updated the firmware and engine ok.
On Forza-motorsports 7 there are too many oscillations and a significant lack of feeling in the steering axis. There is also less vibration.
I tried several adjustments and despite that impossible to have good feelings and to attenuate the oscillations in a straight line which are dangerous limits.
Too bad because despite my negative experience guesses the potential of this improvement. Back for me in V347.
When will the recommended settings for each game be updated since this new firmware changed/added a lot of setting?
Also you should continue to post beta firmware updates where you use to post them so we get notified of the releases.
See first post.
Hi
The new driver and Fanalab, not for the CSW 2.5?
Thanks ;)
Don't know how to delete the above quotes I accidentally touched when scrolling through the pages of this thread, can't see any functionality to remove them on my phone. Anyway, moving on.
I went back to previous drivers and firmware as I was getting clunking and uncontrollable wheel rim motion in Raceroom when I hit drive, looking at all the comments I don't believe this version should have been released. Better to be safe than sorry.
I don't know if it's the same for mobile phone(Don't own one) In the leave a comment box, highlight the quote/s and just press delete key :)
Hope that helps ;)
Sorry to share the pain Ben, but I know exactly how you must feel right now. This sounds like an exact replica of what happened to my DD1.
Merry XMAS? Not!
Yep, major downer. Was planning on spending a lot of my only break of the year in the rig.
It's dead. I've had several months of perfect performance from the DD, arrived in the first batch. An hour or two into 352 and it's wrecked.
Vid if anyone interested https://drive.google.com/open?id=1xTuIbPTd5W5_pAXqNKV3CZhSYtqfIby_
Extremely stiff and notchy even with power disconnected. Thunks when powered on then nothing. Motor seems broken. Dunno.
I can't say conclusively it was 352, may be a coincidental dying of it at the time. But with all the reports of motor noises and stuff similar it seems unlikely. So, in my experience the new driver and fw killed my DD.
Thanks for the idea Stephen bit when you highlight the quote the pop up keypad disappears so you don't have anything to press to delete it. Seems like a pretty off oversight if there isn't a way to delete.
What are your In Game settings???
What are your on wheel settings???
I'm posting from My phone and don't have My exact settings in front of Me to share ATM.
I can Make a Video Showing Race Room I can let the Wheel Go and No Oscillations and Jerky movements.
Did you use the New Controller profile??? The Old Controller file will Work But is No Good after RRE last update... The FFB will be way Off they changed a bunch if parameters in the file...Also using the Bew File any car they haven't adjusted Needs the In car FFB multiplier Reduced... Some Cars even as Low as 1.0!!!
Absolutely 100% identical failure to mine Ben. And like you, my wheel was also from the first batch.
It's enough to make the following quote from the Podium web page seem a little questionable, isn't it?
https://fanatec.com/au-en/podiumoverview-au
"This heavy piece of solid metal is engineered with German precision and built to last for many years. The all-aluminium housing provides the rigidity needed to handle the high torque output. This is the last wheel base you’ll ever need."
I am unable to resolve the 100% fan bug. My DD2 motor firmware is stuck at v26. I've tried reinstalling the driver package and re-updating firmware several times, but the motor update does not work.
I have never seen these menus in the properties screen for my DD2. I always just get a generic game controller menu. Drivers seem to install, games work, and FanaLab beta installs and detects the wheel. However, as in my comment above, while I can update Wheel firmware, my motor firmware is stuck on v26. Any help?
WOW!!! Were you using 100% on wheel FFB?
Hi Lorrell, I used the recommended on abse and in game settings but I changed my existing in game settings to align with the new default ones.
This worked fine until I updated to v352 and the other new firmware as well, from that time on I had the turn off clunk and the wheel going mental in raceroom, no other sims.
Since I have changed back to v346 and the older firmware I don't have the turn off clunk anymore, or the crazy wheel rotation or the extra noise around the centre of the wheel. I think I will wait for a few fixes before I move on from 346
No. I've never ever used 100%. That would rip your arms off!
My standard FFB settings is 45... but as I mentioned in my original post, I wasn't even driving when they wheelbase failed. It was about 20 minutes after I'd been using it, though it was still powered up. Sounds like Ben, who posted info on his DD1 failure above, had exactly the same situation.
Do you have a wheel Rim on the base when you try to update motor FW??? If so take the wheel Off.. Restart the base then try.
I had to take My UHX/Xbox Hub off the wheel base to Flash motor Fw when I Rolled back to 346... I want to test to see if I hear any difference between how the DD2 sounds on 346 vs How it sounds on 352.
What Do you have DD2 or DD1???
I'm using DD2 and very Rarely do I feel Need to turn On wheel FFB above 35%... That keeps Me Between 7 and 8Nm and Im fine with that.
Regarding Fw 346 vs 352.... I will say 352 feels stronger at on wheel 35% than 346... But that could be the Faster FFB Ramp up/ -23% Latency Reduction.
Thus Far I'm not noticing any Weird or Strange Noise differences between the 2.
346 still feels Spot on/Really Good but 352 does have more detailed subtle feel in the FFB.
Will the Podium Button Box Buttons and Display Work in Legacy Mode to at least show the Gear/ Speed for those that dont want to use Dr 352, Fw 669, Motor Fw 38?
I've tried it both with and without a wheel on the base. Didn't work.
To be clear - I've NEVER had a working Fanatec device control panel. I've been getting by through configuring the settings on wheel and manually running the firmware update tool from C:/Program Files/Fanatec/Fanatec Wheel/
Whenever I open 'Game Controllers' and click on the properties of my DD2 - I just get generic controller settings as if it were some random USB joystick.
I just spent the last two hours installing a Windows 10 virtual machine on my work Mac laptop - and hooking up my base to that. On that virtual machine the control panel installed correctly and I was able to update both the Wheelbase firmware and the Motor firmware.
I just don't want to have to do that every time there's a firmware update.
@Fanatec - how can I get the device control panel to actually work on my real Windows 10 machine?
Your question is noted.
We would be interested to know what the air gap tolerances are between the stator and rotor? What type of rolling elements are used on the motor and what type of lubricant is used? Ball? Roller? Insulated? Sealed? High temp?
Bearing failure is a common mode of failure for motors. If the sound is a result of bearing play, then Fanatec has used incredibly questionable bearings on their $1500 DD bases. Nobody here is going to tear apart their base to investigate the source and cause of the "thump bug" and Fanatec cannot afford my time to undertake a forensic investigation. Your technical teams should be able to grab a DD, put it on a test bench, place firmware 352/353 on it, and begin isolating components to determine the cause. SOOO many things you can do with SUPER quickly....I'm POSITIVE you have access to cheap strain guages, oscilloscopes, multimeters, etc. The investigation shouldn't take more than 4 hours by 1 person.
You should not speculate that this issue is mechanical in nature but the sound DEFINITELY is mechanical and NOT an electrical thermal magnetic sound from an eddy current or from magnetic hysteresis. Besides, it's obvious that mechanical motor noises would persist even when there is no power applied. The concerns I have read and experienced myself when I had 352 installed happened during power off. As that sound is induced when the stator is de-magnitized and no sound when the motor is unplugged, that alone should help your investigators focus on electrical.
Keep us posted and provide us a remedy. MANY people here see their DD base as a ONE-TIME special purchase.
Unfortunately, your DD is exhibiting symptoms of motor failure. You need to get in touch with Fanatec via e-mail and request a RMA. I think many people, including myself, would be interested to hear your journey through this process. Anecdotally, folks note they have been reasonable to deal with despite the slow response times. There was recently a post by Massimo about his CSL base faulting his PC, his PlayStation, and his TV...all of which are not destroyed because Fanatec sent him an untested power cabe. https://forum.fanatec.com/discussion/comment/36035#Comment_36035
You should keep some very tight documentation for your own benefit and for the prupose of your claim.
Best of luck.
Delete the Fanatec Driver--> Then Search your controller profiles and delete the Fanatec Device Control panel USB driver for what ever Fanatec Gear you find.... Then Install the Fanatec Drivers page again When you hook up the wheel the PC should initialize and install the proper USB Driver for your wheel.
Totally agree, same here (DD1, Xbox One X, Forza 7, V352/V669)
I have played a lot with settings, but non of them gave me the direct and connected feeling which I had in V347. Since V352 my direct wheel feels indirect (sounds weird, but explains how it feels)
I noticed a big difference in sound by rolling back
A Big Difference in a Good or Bad way??? Did the FFB get better with the Roll Back or did you lose some subtle feel..
Dr-346 feels Really Good and the steering seems tighter/ more accurate but thats probably because game may Not be updated to the New Fanatec SDK with higher/Fine steering ratio.
Dr-352 35% on wheel feels stronger than Dr-346 on wheel 35%....also 352 puts out more subtle detail--->more pronounced Tire Scrub and subtle stuff like that but steering feels smoother but Less Direct.