yo, i heard the mystery clonk causes cancer and will burn your house down if you hit the right buttons, 3 out of 13k have been affected? I think everyone should throw their fanatec in the garden, but please dm me your address so i can swoop them up.
Clearly the affected number of "bricked" DD1 bases are Manufacturer defect and would of blown anyway, so relax.
I have used Brushless motors in way more demanding conditions for longer durations, in-runner and out-runner. i assure y'all the clonk is fine, think of that sound like a tuning fork, the clonk is the audible representation of the magnetic fields of the motor powering down. the clonk is the sweet release for your precision outrunner motors magnets releasing their hold on the stator after some sweet fine detailing of ffb signals to your brain thru the base.
it was so fun too, of course you are worried about your base.
Take a deep breath and hit the settings grind, it will be ok sunshine, you'll find your special feel again.
I'm as chill as can be man, have been this whole thread long. Was just replying to someone who thought every DD1 bricks as soon as that driver is installed.
I'm running 353 and it's smooth, will post some settings in a bit, was just writing something up to post here.. And like you said, 3 years of warranty so that means still 2 years and 11 months left for me. ;)
I first had a CSL Elite PS4 for 2 years and switching to the DD1 PS4 (driver 346 + FW) made me experience a big difference in detail. I then switched to driver 352 (with FW) and played around to get my settings feel right. Once I did I felt quite a big improvement in detail again. Now I'm on driver 353 with FW (basically the same as 352 with added functionality for the coming PBME). I had no problems installing the drivers or firmware, just the fan blowing after updating the base before the motor was updated but that's normal behavior. I don't use Fanalab.
I changed my settings to a combination of the ones that felt right to me at first (I like quite a bit of force as well as friction) with the tips from Sim Racing Garage and 2Old4Forza, both on YouTube. These give me a strong force feedback with lots of detail, smooth reaction without the spikes or jolts or the base acting weird. I don't have the AUTO SEN issue on Xbox which I thought I had at first, the cars steer fine in FM7 and FH4, have yet to try AC when I find the time. I don't have the "knock" when turning it off, just a slight sound (click or "tik" or something but very light) but nothing alarming. Oscillation seems to have gone away with the settings I have now, I had quite a bit when I ran driver 352. Also, the vibration of the wheel even when standing still seems to have been largely reduced.
My settings are:
SEN: AUTO
FFB: 60
LIN: OFF
NDP: 30
NFR: OFF
NIN: 20
INT: 7
FEI: 100 (might turn this down to 80 should I feel spikes/jolts but for now keeping it at 100 gives me more detail)
FOR: 100
SPR: 0
DPR: 0
ABS: 80
SHO: 100
BRF: MAX
Please note that I made the settings to to SPR and DPR (both at 0) when putting the DD1 in PC mode, you don't have them in Xbox mode but I do think they make a difference if put at 0 when using the wheel in Xbox mode, oddly enough. For the rest my main changes to get this smooth feeling are: NDP below default value, a bit of NIN and INT high enough. FEI as I said I will see, for now it's fine at 100 for me but if you have heavy spikes you should turn that down to 80 at the most. I disabled LIN (too much loss of detail) and NFR (just adds friction on top of the friction you should get with the other settings).
So how do you know 13k have been sold? And how do you know only three have failed? There could be many more, not every fanatec owner is active in the forum's.
Fanatec hasn’t been responding to the bricked comments in the forums. Not one. If I were in their shoes and had suspicions the driver could be behind it, I wouldn’t respond either. Plausible deniability.
And everyone who ordered the Porsche wheel is being directed to download v353 from the product page, not the forums. It’s not referred to as a beta there.
It’d be foolish to think instant bricking is the only risk here. What if running the driver is shortening the life of the base with each session? You might not have a brick today. But you might have one the year after your warranty expires when your base might’ve lasted 10 years otherwise.
I believe that the very first DD's had a few failures with the power buttons and fanatec made a statement that they were somehow damaged in their testing / QA process and that they made some changes to that so it would not happen again. Maybe this is a residual effect from that, I got mine in the first batch to be released so am hoping I do not have the power button issue. It would have been good if fanatec released serial numbers or the like of those that may be affected so that we could check our own. My power button has always worked.......so far but I have had the occasional lockup where I cannot enable the hi torque mode and the screen freezes up, i just turn it off at the pp and then back on and it seems to fix it, I assume when that happens it is something to do with the driver or firmware.
Brilliant. Look If 352/353 work for you and you have no concerns, right on. But telling everyone else there’s nothing to worry about when you couldn’t possibly know that seems strange to me.
I’m not forcing anyone to uninstall the new drivers. Just sharing my experience in the off chance it helps someone. It’s up to each user to decide for themselves.
Unlike quite a lot of people here warning people about these new drivers, warranty, legal issues, bad support and how terrible the comapany Fanatec is (I'm not pointing at you, I'm talking about the general tone here on this forum) I'm not enccouraging anyone to install these drivers but I feel free to post my positive experiences just like the majority here posts their negative ones.
But there seem to be people here with a lot of anger and agression towards Fanatec (again, not pointing at you), I wonder why they don't sell their stuff and move on to another brand. I would if I felt like that. But I don't, just like I liked the CSL setup for 2 years, I enjoy the new Podium one and the 352 driver works just as well as the 346 driver for me. Concerning support, I needed them twice (once due to my own clumsiness) and had decent support both times.
I see few people here posting positive experiences and the ones that do usually aren't appreciated for it. I think both need to be posted though.
Being an engineer doesn't exclude you from being ignorant and inflammatory.
So , i race brushless motors and have for over 10years. we run 4600kv on 7.4v and spool them up to 40krpm to a deadstop in a millisecond and back to 40krpm @ 175 degrees for up to 20 minutes at a time., My race motor has been doing this once a week for 5 years now, im pretty confident at this point.
No way in hell is what we are doing is going to damage an industrial conveyor belt motor?
you must suck at engineering bro or maybe you are in packaging, my homeboy calls himself a packaging engineer, 🤷♂️.
I’ve spent 10 years in oil and gas working for one of the majors, with pelletizing motors the size of dump trucks. And they fail when used incorrectly.
Guess what? Sometimes the bearings fail on the truck before they’re even offloaded. But I’m sure you knew that.
I’m not going to argue with you. It’s a free country, and you clearly know what you’re doing. So go do it and try not to be so mad, bro.
With the help of tech support, I was able to downgrade my wheelbase firmware to that of v335/345 drivers (v653/662) by reinstalling those drivers and holding the power button down for 8 seconds. Seems like the motor firmware is broken as well. I had upgraded to v38 along with v352 package and was still experiencing problems with the fan/wheel calibration with v335/345 (& v653/662 wheelbase firmware). It was only after I downgraded the motor to v30 that solved all problems. Whenever motor v38 was installed, the fan would stay at max, wheel calibration would not save, and FFB test didn't work.
I tried installing v352 and v669 wheelbase again. So the fan went to max after v669, but only bricks after updating motor to v38. v30 doesn't work with v352 set either.
The purpose of this forum is to help Fanatec weed out the bugs to release the most stable drivers they can. If the driver works for you, then wonderful. Enjoy! But to be dismissive of a few with serious repeatable problems is to miss the entire point of having a beta in the first place. In customer service, for every complaint voiced, there are many others who have experienced the same as well, but don't speak up.
Since your DD1 bricks again as soon as you install motor FW V38, maybe it would be useful to see if all of you have the same hardware version.
If that’s the case a different motor firmware could be released for those hardware versions in order to work with the new drivers and base FW so you can use the new functionality and wheels/modules.
I agree with this 100%... After using 352 and the Far better FFB feel I can't go back to 346...I tried 346 vs 352 all weekend and 352 hands Down...Bottom Line.
I'm Not worried about the wheel Bricking it feels just Fine... If 352 were bricking wheels Im sure Fanatec would have Removed the Dr/FW ASAP.... As Far as Temps Go the New Dr/Fw only Runs a Tad Hotter but that is the case when you increase performance in ant electronic Device.... Pretty Much the same as if you OC your PC CPU.... Oooh and BTW that Other Brand DD with No OLED monitoring system you have No way to know how Hot the Driver and Motor temps are.... To Kill the panic If Fanatec were to Remove the Dr and Motor temp monitoring feature we would all be Mad!!! and it would be just another thing to complain about but there would be No Panic about New Fw temps.
This seems to be another case of Human Nature that you can please Some of the People Some time but No matter How Hard you try you will Never be able to please All People Not Ever!!! Not Even for a Fraction of a Second!!!
If I were Unhappy with My Fanatec DD2 and Really thought it was going to have Reliability /Longevity Issues would Sell it Quickly and Get Top $$$ before the word of Massive Defective products gets out and Kills the Market Value!!! I suggest to All that are Really worried and doubtful of Product Driver Reliability To Cash out while you Can!!! That other brand with No On Wheel Settings, No OLED is waiting for you....No Need Complaining here on the Forum as its Not going to change anything....
Unfortunately the Nay sayers Scream Louder than Happy people...
Fanatecs Happy Satisfied customers Need to post more about their positive experiences... We should Not Allow the Few Negative Nay Sayers to Diminish and Devalue Fanatec our Brand of choice unchallenged.
Edit: Don't get Me wrong I'm Not Dismissing those with Valid Issues... But as was stated in another post the Purpose of Beta Drivers is to Weed out the Bugs and Kinks... We will Have Problems Issues but we Need to be Patient and Level Headed to Resolve them... Most of us will Be Happy in the End... and I'm Sure Fanatec will work hard to make it right for those that have Hardware, Dr/Fw issues.
Mine's still dead, unfortunately. Looks like I received the same advice from Fanatec - to get it into bootloader mode. Mine does one initial thunk when powered on, with a tiny bit of movement, a cm or so, and holding power down for 8 secs for bootloader mode it does a second thunk at that point.
But the OLED stays off, and nothing pops up on the Windows desktop as it should in bootloader mode. Pressing the small button on the wheel to change the display does nothing, lights never come on at any point. The DD does not show up in Windows game controller panel.
So I have no way of changing the DD, or motor fw.
I did uninstall the 352 windows driver package, and installed 345, that did nothing.
Fanatec tech support also asked me to update my Windows install and try another USB port. That did nothing.
I should also note that even when it's powered off (and disconnected for a long period from the power brick) the wheel movement is extremely stiff and clunky. It's hard to move with one hand, with enormous lumps every few degrees as I turn it. So something's very not right.
I await next instructions from Fanatec. Unfortunately with the xmas break and a one day delay in all communications (I'm in Australia), it's looking like a long delay before it gets to the RMA stage...
A further update on the ffb thump from me - I have noticed it today for first time since update - this was racing in multiplayer in RRE. I have not yet noticed it anywhere else in RRE or Pcars2
I downloaded and applied the new 352 firmware with fanalab 1.23 for my DD1 with V2 F1 2019 steering wheel
For now I find no problem maybe the FFB is a bit harder but all the other filters work well. Only at the beginning did I have the fan at max rpm, but continuing with the installation everything went well. I don't know, but many are complaining about this firmware, it is likely that some things will be corrected in time to avoid damaging the engine. I don't want to downgrade, we'll see if there will be other updates very soon!
Comments
First, uninstall Fanalab.
You can uninstall v352 one of two ways.
If you still have the v346 installer, run that - and restart. If not you can find it at the bottom of the first post here:
https://forum.fanatec.com/discussion/1054/fanatec-beta-driver-v346-for-csl-csw-and-podium-bases-all-wheels/p1
once that’s installed and pc restarted, open the Wheel Properties Page and go to update tab:
if you want fanalab, install v1.12 found here:
https://forum.fanatec.com/discussion/1056/fanalab-1-12-available-post-feedback-here/p1
yo, i heard the mystery clonk causes cancer and will burn your house down if you hit the right buttons, 3 out of 13k have been affected? I think everyone should throw their fanatec in the garden, but please dm me your address so i can swoop them up.
Clearly the affected number of "bricked" DD1 bases are Manufacturer defect and would of blown anyway, so relax.
I have used Brushless motors in way more demanding conditions for longer durations, in-runner and out-runner. i assure y'all the clonk is fine, think of that sound like a tuning fork, the clonk is the audible representation of the magnetic fields of the motor powering down. the clonk is the sweet release for your precision outrunner motors magnets releasing their hold on the stator after some sweet fine detailing of ffb signals to your brain thru the base.
it was so fun too, of course you are worried about your base.
Take a deep breath and hit the settings grind, it will be ok sunshine, you'll find your special feel again.
But bye all means carefully follow these instructions, just make sure you delete all fanatec/fanalabs for a clean install.
How do you determine if you are getting a new one?
you dont and they are building and selling them in crowdfunded batches it seems.
then, you try not to pay attention to the inflammatory posts by people who scare easy and you press on into the great unknowns!
What if Michael Schumacher, Lewis Hamilton or Ayrton Senna believed the doubters?
Find the limit and push it, you have 3-5 years of warranty, F it!
This guy sounds like he really knows what he’s talking about.
Ignore the number of engineers who have chimed in (myself included) with concerns.
Throw caution to the wind! Fly, fly!
I'm as chill as can be man, have been this whole thread long. Was just replying to someone who thought every DD1 bricks as soon as that driver is installed.
I'm running 353 and it's smooth, will post some settings in a bit, was just writing something up to post here.. And like you said, 3 years of warranty so that means still 2 years and 11 months left for me. ;)
I first had a CSL Elite PS4 for 2 years and switching to the DD1 PS4 (driver 346 + FW) made me experience a big difference in detail. I then switched to driver 352 (with FW) and played around to get my settings feel right. Once I did I felt quite a big improvement in detail again. Now I'm on driver 353 with FW (basically the same as 352 with added functionality for the coming PBME). I had no problems installing the drivers or firmware, just the fan blowing after updating the base before the motor was updated but that's normal behavior. I don't use Fanalab.
I changed my settings to a combination of the ones that felt right to me at first (I like quite a bit of force as well as friction) with the tips from Sim Racing Garage and 2Old4Forza, both on YouTube. These give me a strong force feedback with lots of detail, smooth reaction without the spikes or jolts or the base acting weird. I don't have the AUTO SEN issue on Xbox which I thought I had at first, the cars steer fine in FM7 and FH4, have yet to try AC when I find the time. I don't have the "knock" when turning it off, just a slight sound (click or "tik" or something but very light) but nothing alarming. Oscillation seems to have gone away with the settings I have now, I had quite a bit when I ran driver 352. Also, the vibration of the wheel even when standing still seems to have been largely reduced.
My settings are:
SEN: AUTO
FFB: 60
LIN: OFF
NDP: 30
NFR: OFF
NIN: 20
INT: 7
FEI: 100 (might turn this down to 80 should I feel spikes/jolts but for now keeping it at 100 gives me more detail)
FOR: 100
SPR: 0
DPR: 0
ABS: 80
SHO: 100
BRF: MAX
Please note that I made the settings to to SPR and DPR (both at 0) when putting the DD1 in PC mode, you don't have them in Xbox mode but I do think they make a difference if put at 0 when using the wheel in Xbox mode, oddly enough. For the rest my main changes to get this smooth feeling are: NDP below default value, a bit of NIN and INT high enough. FEI as I said I will see, for now it's fine at 100 for me but if you have heavy spikes you should turn that down to 80 at the most. I disabled LIN (too much loss of detail) and NFR (just adds friction on top of the friction you should get with the other settings).
If you still have to buy it it'll surely not be an old one, they have been frequently out of stock.
So how do you know 13k have been sold? And how do you know only three have failed? There could be many more, not every fanatec owner is active in the forum's.
If they're not active in the forum they won't have a beta driver installed. So even if there are more bricked ones it won't be due to that driver.
Besides, if the driver was the cause I'm pretty sure Fanatec would have pulled it right away.
Fanatec hasn’t been responding to the bricked comments in the forums. Not one. If I were in their shoes and had suspicions the driver could be behind it, I wouldn’t respond either. Plausible deniability.
And everyone who ordered the Porsche wheel is being directed to download v353 from the product page, not the forums. It’s not referred to as a beta there.
It’d be foolish to think instant bricking is the only risk here. What if running the driver is shortening the life of the base with each session? You might not have a brick today. But you might have one the year after your warranty expires when your base might’ve lasted 10 years otherwise.
I believe that the very first DD's had a few failures with the power buttons and fanatec made a statement that they were somehow damaged in their testing / QA process and that they made some changes to that so it would not happen again. Maybe this is a residual effect from that, I got mine in the first batch to be released so am hoping I do not have the power button issue. It would have been good if fanatec released serial numbers or the like of those that may be affected so that we could check our own. My power button has always worked.......so far but I have had the occasional lockup where I cannot enable the hi torque mode and the screen freezes up, i just turn it off at the pp and then back on and it seems to fix it, I assume when that happens it is something to do with the driver or firmware.
What if my aunt had balls? She'd be my uncle ...
Brilliant. Look If 352/353 work for you and you have no concerns, right on. But telling everyone else there’s nothing to worry about when you couldn’t possibly know that seems strange to me.
I’m not forcing anyone to uninstall the new drivers. Just sharing my experience in the off chance it helps someone. It’s up to each user to decide for themselves.
Unlike quite a lot of people here warning people about these new drivers, warranty, legal issues, bad support and how terrible the comapany Fanatec is (I'm not pointing at you, I'm talking about the general tone here on this forum) I'm not enccouraging anyone to install these drivers but I feel free to post my positive experiences just like the majority here posts their negative ones.
But there seem to be people here with a lot of anger and agression towards Fanatec (again, not pointing at you), I wonder why they don't sell their stuff and move on to another brand. I would if I felt like that. But I don't, just like I liked the CSL setup for 2 years, I enjoy the new Podium one and the 352 driver works just as well as the 346 driver for me. Concerning support, I needed them twice (once due to my own clumsiness) and had decent support both times.
I see few people here posting positive experiences and the ones that do usually aren't appreciated for it. I think both need to be posted though.
Being an engineer doesn't exclude you from being ignorant and inflammatory.
So , i race brushless motors and have for over 10years. we run 4600kv on 7.4v and spool them up to 40krpm to a deadstop in a millisecond and back to 40krpm @ 175 degrees for up to 20 minutes at a time., My race motor has been doing this once a week for 5 years now, im pretty confident at this point.
No way in hell is what we are doing is going to damage an industrial conveyor belt motor?
you must suck at engineering bro or maybe you are in packaging, my homeboy calls himself a packaging engineer, 🤷♂️.
I’ve spent 10 years in oil and gas working for one of the majors, with pelletizing motors the size of dump trucks. And they fail when used incorrectly.
Guess what? Sometimes the bearings fail on the truck before they’re even offloaded. But I’m sure you knew that.
I’m not going to argue with you. It’s a free country, and you clearly know what you’re doing. So go do it and try not to be so mad, bro.
It’s Christmas Eve. Merry Christmas.
DD1 brick update: UNBRICKED!
With the help of tech support, I was able to downgrade my wheelbase firmware to that of v335/345 drivers (v653/662) by reinstalling those drivers and holding the power button down for 8 seconds. Seems like the motor firmware is broken as well. I had upgraded to v38 along with v352 package and was still experiencing problems with the fan/wheel calibration with v335/345 (& v653/662 wheelbase firmware). It was only after I downgraded the motor to v30 that solved all problems. Whenever motor v38 was installed, the fan would stay at max, wheel calibration would not save, and FFB test didn't work.
I tried installing v352 and v669 wheelbase again. So the fan went to max after v669, but only bricks after updating motor to v38. v30 doesn't work with v352 set either.
The purpose of this forum is to help Fanatec weed out the bugs to release the most stable drivers they can. If the driver works for you, then wonderful. Enjoy! But to be dismissive of a few with serious repeatable problems is to miss the entire point of having a beta in the first place. In customer service, for every complaint voiced, there are many others who have experienced the same as well, but don't speak up.
Since your DD1 bricks again as soon as you install motor FW V38, maybe it would be useful to see if all of you have the same hardware version.
If that’s the case a different motor firmware could be released for those hardware versions in order to work with the new drivers and base FW so you can use the new functionality and wheels/modules.
I have Main HW v1, Motor HW v3, and ACV v2.
I agree with this 100%... After using 352 and the Far better FFB feel I can't go back to 346...I tried 346 vs 352 all weekend and 352 hands Down...Bottom Line.
I'm Not worried about the wheel Bricking it feels just Fine... If 352 were bricking wheels Im sure Fanatec would have Removed the Dr/FW ASAP.... As Far as Temps Go the New Dr/Fw only Runs a Tad Hotter but that is the case when you increase performance in ant electronic Device.... Pretty Much the same as if you OC your PC CPU.... Oooh and BTW that Other Brand DD with No OLED monitoring system you have No way to know how Hot the Driver and Motor temps are.... To Kill the panic If Fanatec were to Remove the Dr and Motor temp monitoring feature we would all be Mad!!! and it would be just another thing to complain about but there would be No Panic about New Fw temps.
This seems to be another case of Human Nature that you can please Some of the People Some time but No matter How Hard you try you will Never be able to please All People Not Ever!!! Not Even for a Fraction of a Second!!!
If I were Unhappy with My Fanatec DD2 and Really thought it was going to have Reliability /Longevity Issues would Sell it Quickly and Get Top $$$ before the word of Massive Defective products gets out and Kills the Market Value!!! I suggest to All that are Really worried and doubtful of Product Driver Reliability To Cash out while you Can!!! That other brand with No On Wheel Settings, No OLED is waiting for you....No Need Complaining here on the Forum as its Not going to change anything....
Unfortunately the Nay sayers Scream Louder than Happy people...
Fanatecs Happy Satisfied customers Need to post more about their positive experiences... We should Not Allow the Few Negative Nay Sayers to Diminish and Devalue Fanatec our Brand of choice unchallenged.
Edit: Don't get Me wrong I'm Not Dismissing those with Valid Issues... But as was stated in another post the Purpose of Beta Drivers is to Weed out the Bugs and Kinks... We will Have Problems Issues but we Need to be Patient and Level Headed to Resolve them... Most of us will Be Happy in the End... and I'm Sure Fanatec will work hard to make it right for those that have Hardware, Dr/Fw issues.
That's great news, Mike. A big relief.
Mine's still dead, unfortunately. Looks like I received the same advice from Fanatec - to get it into bootloader mode. Mine does one initial thunk when powered on, with a tiny bit of movement, a cm or so, and holding power down for 8 secs for bootloader mode it does a second thunk at that point.
But the OLED stays off, and nothing pops up on the Windows desktop as it should in bootloader mode. Pressing the small button on the wheel to change the display does nothing, lights never come on at any point. The DD does not show up in Windows game controller panel.
So I have no way of changing the DD, or motor fw.
I did uninstall the 352 windows driver package, and installed 345, that did nothing.
Fanatec tech support also asked me to update my Windows install and try another USB port. That did nothing.
I should also note that even when it's powered off (and disconnected for a long period from the power brick) the wheel movement is extremely stiff and clunky. It's hard to move with one hand, with enormous lumps every few degrees as I turn it. So something's very not right.
I await next instructions from Fanatec. Unfortunately with the xmas break and a one day delay in all communications (I'm in Australia), it's looking like a long delay before it gets to the RMA stage...
Main HW V3, motor HW V3 and ACV V3 here. This is a newer model, purchased 1 month ago and it hasn't bricked.
Hey @Luna, how do i check the Version of the motor etc.. ?
Depends on your wheel.
With the Xbox hub I press and hold the tuning menu button and press funky switch down.
It should be in the Podium manual.
Edit: just checked, same combo for the Formula rims.
Cheers, thank you.
Tested in iRacing Dalllara F3 and Porsche RSR. The "feel" has improved with each update. No gripes.
Wish list:
Add to FANATEC Podium Wheel Base DD1 Game Controllers Properties interface:
Fan Speed and Motor Temperature.
Add to FanaLab:
Clutch Bite Point
Proper use of a default Game Profile
Wheelbase: Podium DD1
Wheels: F1 2019 with APM, Porsche 918 RSR
Pedals: Clubsport V3 with Brake Performance Kit
Driver: V352 (V669 / V28)
Platform: PC
Games: iRacing
FanaLab 1.23
My settings are:
SEN: 1080
FFB: 100
LIN: ON
NDP: 15
NFR: 3
NIN: OFF
INT: 1
FEI: 90
FOR: 100
SPR: 100
DPR: 100
ABS: 70
SHO: 100
BRF: 70
Hi my feedback so far
DD2
Mclaren GT3 wheel
Games - Pcars 2 & Raceroom
pc driver 346
wheel base 662
motor 30
wheel 30
PC mode
Fanalabs - I do not use
Pedals - not fanatec
A further update on the ffb thump from me - I have noticed it today for first time since update - this was racing in multiplayer in RRE. I have not yet noticed it anywhere else in RRE or Pcars2
RR3
SEN - match car
FFB - 100
LIN - Off
NDP - 50
NFR - 05
NIN - Off
INT - 6
FEI - 100
FOR - 100
SPR - 100
DPR - 100
SHO - 100
I downloaded and applied the new 352 firmware with fanalab 1.23 for my DD1 with V2 F1 2019 steering wheel
For now I find no problem maybe the FFB is a bit harder but all the other filters work well. Only at the beginning did I have the fan at max rpm, but continuing with the installation everything went well. I don't know, but many are complaining about this firmware, it is likely that some things will be corrected in time to avoid damaging the engine. I don't want to downgrade, we'll see if there will be other updates very soon!