Thought I would share my settings after spending time getting the FFB to a good baseline. Tightens up the wheel a bit more and I find it gives more detail from physics. Keep in mind you will need to adjust the per car ffb to your liking.
Raceroom's older content physics has been updated today, aswell the Force Feedback in general. They even added 2 new FFB-stuff. Perhaps the current settings here on the topic might be outdated.
Yes, the RaceRoom update also surprised me and at first I was a bit helpless because I wasn't thrilled!
After several changes in the game settings, I deleted everything and started again. With these settings now listed here, I am very satisfied with the DD1 and find it better than before. Most important was the change in the minimum force, I was surprised anyway that it was set so high.
I tried these setting but experience clipping in the middle when driving straight forward in high speed. I have a DD1. I was very happy with the old FFB but now I am really struggeling. Can anyone else post a setup that they are happy with after the new RR update. Both in RR and a fanalab RR profile :-)
Hi guys. I am the developer who made the new default profiles for R3E. I recommend these on-wheel settings:
Recommended wheel base settings:
Sensitivity: Auto
Force Feedback: 100
Shock Vib: 100
ABS: 100
Force: 100
Spring: Off
Damper: 100
Allows the game to make full use of the wheel's damping. If you find there is too much, reduce through the game's Force Feedback Damper setting.
Nat Damper: 10
The natural damper will give you an additional damper which you can adjust from OFF to 100. At 100 you will have the strongest dampening effect which reacts to the acceleration and angle of your steering. If you turn it OFF, your steering will have no additional damping, making it easier to turn the wheel. The Natural Damper is a useful setting to reduce unwanted wheel oscillation. Oscillation is typically caused by latency in the feedback loop, and is more apparent in racing games that are not optimised for high-torque motors. The 32 default value of 50 is a good balance between steering responsiveness and oscillation mitigation.
An extra layer of damping which is applied at the wheel, separately to the game. Useful to tune out oscillations but will remove sharpness. I recommend you keep values very small (<10) here.
Natural Friction: 5
From the Fanatec user manual:
The natural damper will give you an additional damper which you can adjust from OFF to 100. At 100 you will have the strongest dampening effect which reacts to the acceleration and angle of your steering. If you turn it OFF, your steering will have no additional damping, making it easier to turn the wheel. The Natural Damper is a useful setting to reduce unwanted wheel oscillation. Oscillation is typically caused by latency in the feedback loop, and is more apparent in racing games that are not optimised for high-torque motors.
Use this value to tune out any oscillations and also to take up any slack/dead feeling around the centre of the wheel travel. I recommend you keep values very small (<10) here.
Brake Force: Max
Force Feedback Intensity: 100
This parameter adjusts the overall intensity of force effects and can make effects smoother: OFF is very smooth while 100 is very sharp and direct. Tuning this parameter can help to refine a harsh or spiky force feedback signal in some games.
I also recommend some small changes to the in-game FFB settings which you can see here and which I will update the defaults with.
If you install the latest 352 beta driver you get some great new functionality and more sliders to adjust.
Obviously this also impacts the 'recommended settings'. Would be nice if these will be updated for the different games like R3E, DR2.0, ACC etc etc. No time to rest for the devs/testers ;) Thx!
Thank you Alex for these settings. Playing around 2 days for finding new settings and was a little frustrated because nothing felt "good" after updating to 352, but with your settings it is perfect. 👍️
Would be nice to have some settings suitable for csl elite+. Absolutely no feel when turning into a corner. Sad that there is a free weekend and I bet i'm not the only one that has problems with ffb at the moment.
This is what I am using now. Use the car multiplier to increase or decrease. It's ok. Not the best FFB ever, but I can at last feel what the car's doing and feel the road a bit. It's not AMS, AC or rF2 level but it does it job. Probably the just one step higher than pCars 1 & 2
I did follow the actual recommendations of FFB settings for CSW 2.5 for Raceroom. But I did not achieve satisfying results.
What surprises me is the situation that the wheel is heavily vibrating after clicking the "drive" button in R3E, EVEN BEFORE I gonna start the engine. In any other sim the FFB FX are much smoother.
Does anyone has a solution for this? Would be great cause the problem already generates the loss od a 3 TB external hard disk that fell of my computer table ...
Yesterday evening we tested the Fanatec Beta Driver V347 for CSL, CSW using motor firmware 20 (FW 22 did not avoid the vibs). It is now working in an acceptable way. The strong vibrations after hitting the "drive" button in R2E disappeared nearly all.
Has anyone tried RaceRoom with the DD2 and the Porsche Endurance wheel? I keep feeling random jolts during races. It doesn't move the wheel much, but its annoying me because its a very hard jolt. It doesnt spin the wheel, but it feels like that kind of jolt where the wheel stays in place though.
I'm getting a really horrible grinding noise from my DD2 when turning the wheel. Can someone help me find what this is please? It's only in R3e and not in other titles so confident its a FFB setting issue
game is so broken on fanatec v 2.5 I stopped playing it , they completley screwed it up , it was great now it is so weak and lifeless and so I shelved the game
Friends! I saw how difficult it is for everyone to find a solution for setting up feedback and decided to help you - I am the owner of the Podium DD1 database - here are my solutions:
I use the 356 driver and all new firmware, and I also use Fanalab 1.24.
First of all, delete all your equipment profiles in the game, then take the profile that was created in the game - Fanatek Podium DD1 (dd2) - then set the settings for this guy - which I have in the message.
When you ride once you will see what a sluggish connection .. do not worry - press a pause, select return to the garage, there click on the machine options !!! exactly cars! not games, after which you will see in the upper right corner that you can adjust your steering wheel there - put a value of 1.6 or so - and you will be happy!
Everything doesn’t work for me, everything works perfectly!
I have a problem with Raceroom, I created a profile for each of my wheel rims, but always when I change the wheel and choose the correct profile all of the saved bindings are lost and stated as DISCONNECTED in the binding section. This is really a mess and I can‘t understand if it‘s the driver, FanaLab or the game itself. Does somebody has a hint, or fix for this issue?
I had similar issue, i had 3 wheels (Formula V2, UHX and the newly prosche one), the game seems only recon the formulaV2 since this wheel is the first wheel i setup the game, other two always end-up in disconnection of the game, i can't even create a new profile to the individual wheel. once disconnected, i put back my formulaV2, but....the profile is empty so that i need to assign all the bottons again.
My suggestion....run 1 profile. I literally spent 3 months getting raceroom to work again after upgrading from a Thrustmaster TMX to CSW2.5. I reinstalled the game multiple times, deleted documents folders, uninstalled drivers, etc. The problem is with raceroom. Garbage coding and their tech support is abysmal. I eventually figured it out on my own through regedit. R3e doesn't know how to properly write code. Something as simple as hooking up hardware is ridiculous.
I would be quite happy with the FFB so far except for one issue: There is an unrealistic and unnatural back-to-center spring which ruins everything. Is there a way to configure the settings so that this does not occur?
Comments
Raceroom's older content physics has been updated today, aswell the Force Feedback in general. They even added 2 new FFB-stuff. Perhaps the current settings here on the topic might be outdated.
Yup, the old settings feel terrible, the new defaults feel terrible.
Somebody fill us in.
Yes, the RaceRoom update also surprised me and at first I was a bit helpless because I wasn't thrilled!
After several changes in the game settings, I deleted everything and started again. With these settings now listed here, I am very satisfied with the DD1 and find it better than before. Most important was the change in the minimum force, I was surprised anyway that it was set so high.
Tuning Menu Settings:
SEN AUT
FF 60
SHO 100
ABS User Preference
FOR 100
SPR 100*
DPR 100*
NDP 25
NFR 5
BRF User Preference
FEI 100
In-Game Settings:
Advanced Settings:
Speed Sensitive Steering: Off
Steering Sensitivity: 50
Force Feedback:
Force Feedback: On
Inverted Force Feedback: On
Gamepad Rumble: Off
Force Feedback Intensity: 100
Smoothing: 20
Force Feedback Spring: 0
Force Feedback Damper: 0
Steering Force Intensity: 100
Minimum Force: 5
Understeer: 60
Vertical Load: 40
Laterial Force: 60
Steering Rack: 100
Slip Effect: 0
Engine Vibrations: 0
Kerb Vibrations: 10
Shift Effect: 10
Collision Effect: 50
Cheers @Volker
I tried these setting but experience clipping in the middle when driving straight forward in high speed. I have a DD1. I was very happy with the old FFB but now I am really struggeling. Can anyone else post a setup that they are happy with after the new RR update. Both in RR and a fanalab RR profile :-)
Hi guys. I am the developer who made the new default profiles for R3E. I recommend these on-wheel settings:
Recommended wheel base settings:
Sensitivity: Auto
Force Feedback: 100
Shock Vib: 100
ABS: 100
Force: 100
Spring: Off
Damper: 100
Allows the game to make full use of the wheel's damping. If you find there is too much, reduce through the game's Force Feedback Damper setting.
Nat Damper: 10
The natural damper will give you an additional damper which you can adjust from OFF to 100. At 100 you will have the strongest dampening effect which reacts to the acceleration and angle of your steering. If you turn it OFF, your steering will have no additional damping, making it easier to turn the wheel. The Natural Damper is a useful setting to reduce unwanted wheel oscillation. Oscillation is typically caused by latency in the feedback loop, and is more apparent in racing games that are not optimised for high-torque motors. The 32 default value of 50 is a good balance between steering responsiveness and oscillation mitigation.
An extra layer of damping which is applied at the wheel, separately to the game. Useful to tune out oscillations but will remove sharpness. I recommend you keep values very small (<10) here.
Natural Friction: 5
From the Fanatec user manual:
The natural damper will give you an additional damper which you can adjust from OFF to 100. At 100 you will have the strongest dampening effect which reacts to the acceleration and angle of your steering. If you turn it OFF, your steering will have no additional damping, making it easier to turn the wheel. The Natural Damper is a useful setting to reduce unwanted wheel oscillation. Oscillation is typically caused by latency in the feedback loop, and is more apparent in racing games that are not optimised for high-torque motors.
Use this value to tune out any oscillations and also to take up any slack/dead feeling around the centre of the wheel travel. I recommend you keep values very small (<10) here.
Brake Force: Max
Force Feedback Intensity: 100
This parameter adjusts the overall intensity of force effects and can make effects smoother: OFF is very smooth while 100 is very sharp and direct. Tuning this parameter can help to refine a harsh or spiky force feedback signal in some games.
I also recommend some small changes to the in-game FFB settings which you can see here and which I will update the defaults with.
If you install the latest 352 beta driver you get some great new functionality and more sliders to adjust.
Obviously this also impacts the 'recommended settings'. Would be nice if these will be updated for the different games like R3E, DR2.0, ACC etc etc. No time to rest for the devs/testers ;) Thx!
Hi Alex! Thank you for this! Any recommendations for the new driver's settings for the DD2?
Thank you Alex, I will try .
Thank you Alex for these settings. Playing around 2 days for finding new settings and was a little frustrated because nothing felt "good" after updating to 352, but with your settings it is perfect. 👍️
Follow up, Love the settings Alex, Cheers mate.
Would be nice to have some settings suitable for csl elite+. Absolutely no feel when turning into a corner. Sad that there is a free weekend and I bet i'm not the only one that has problems with ffb at the moment.
ClubSport Wheel Base V2.5
Tuning Menu Settings:
SEN AUT
FF 100
SHO 100
ABS User Preference
DRI -02
FOR 100
SPR 100*
DPR 100*
BRF User Preference
FEI 100
In-Game Settings:
Advanced Settings:
Speed Sensitive Steering: Off
Steering Sensitivity: 50
Force Feedback:
Force Feedback: On
Inverted Force Feedback: On
Gamepad Rumble: Off
Force Feedback Intensity: 100
Smoothing: 0
Force Feedback Spring: 0
Force Feedback Damper: 0
Steering Force Intensity: 60
Minimum Force: 0
Understeer: 30
Vertical Load: 60
Laterial Force: 40
Steering Rack: 100
Slip Effect: 0
Engine Vibrations: 0
Kerb Vibrations: 10
Shift Effect: 0
Collision Effect: 0
This is what I am using now. Use the car multiplier to increase or decrease. It's ok. Not the best FFB ever, but I can at last feel what the car's doing and feel the road a bit. It's not AMS, AC or rF2 level but it does it job. Probably the just one step higher than pCars 1 & 2
Yes, Indeed.
Have a csl 1.1 and cant find good settings since the R3E update
Hi all,
I did follow the actual recommendations of FFB settings for CSW 2.5 for Raceroom. But I did not achieve satisfying results.
What surprises me is the situation that the wheel is heavily vibrating after clicking the "drive" button in R3E, EVEN BEFORE I gonna start the engine. In any other sim the FFB FX are much smoother.
Does anyone has a solution for this? Would be great cause the problem already generates the loss od a 3 TB external hard disk that fell of my computer table ...
Thanks!
Gerald
The recomendations from fanatec are outdated since the game made majors changes in the FFB system. I'm waiting for something too.
The only solution after several hours of tweaking was to uninstall the game. The worst FFB I've ever felt in my life.
Rafael, I did follow the actual recommendations of Sector3
Yesterday evening we tested the Fanatec Beta Driver V347 for CSL, CSW using motor firmware 20 (FW 22 did not avoid the vibs). It is now working in an acceptable way. The strong vibrations after hitting the "drive" button in R2E disappeared nearly all.
May be this is of help for some of you ...
Gerald
Thanks, Gerald.
I Will try that.
Has anyone tried RaceRoom with the DD2 and the Porsche Endurance wheel? I keep feeling random jolts during races. It doesn't move the wheel much, but its annoying me because its a very hard jolt. It doesnt spin the wheel, but it feels like that kind of jolt where the wheel stays in place though.
Any ideas?
I'm getting a really horrible grinding noise from my DD2 when turning the wheel. Can someone help me find what this is please? It's only in R3e and not in other titles so confident its a FFB setting issue
game is so broken on fanatec v 2.5 I stopped playing it , they completley screwed it up , it was great now it is so weak and lifeless and so I shelved the game
Fanatec, do you think any new settings are proposedd for DD because today it is unplayable. Thanks
Friends! I saw how difficult it is for everyone to find a solution for setting up feedback and decided to help you - I am the owner of the Podium DD1 database - here are my solutions:
I use the 356 driver and all new firmware, and I also use Fanalab 1.24.
First of all, delete all your equipment profiles in the game, then take the profile that was created in the game - Fanatek Podium DD1 (dd2) - then set the settings for this guy - which I have in the message.
When you ride once you will see what a sluggish connection .. do not worry - press a pause, select return to the garage, there click on the machine options !!! exactly cars! not games, after which you will see in the upper right corner that you can adjust your steering wheel there - put a value of 1.6 or so - and you will be happy!
Everything doesn’t work for me, everything works perfectly!
I have a problem with Raceroom, I created a profile for each of my wheel rims, but always when I change the wheel and choose the correct profile all of the saved bindings are lost and stated as DISCONNECTED in the binding section. This is really a mess and I can‘t understand if it‘s the driver, FanaLab or the game itself. Does somebody has a hint, or fix for this issue?
Using a DD1 with 356 driver and FanaLab 1.24.
I had similar issue, i had 3 wheels (Formula V2, UHX and the newly prosche one), the game seems only recon the formulaV2 since this wheel is the first wheel i setup the game, other two always end-up in disconnection of the game, i can't even create a new profile to the individual wheel. once disconnected, i put back my formulaV2, but....the profile is empty so that i need to assign all the bottons again.
My suggestion....run 1 profile. I literally spent 3 months getting raceroom to work again after upgrading from a Thrustmaster TMX to CSW2.5. I reinstalled the game multiple times, deleted documents folders, uninstalled drivers, etc. The problem is with raceroom. Garbage coding and their tech support is abysmal. I eventually figured it out on my own through regedit. R3e doesn't know how to properly write code. Something as simple as hooking up hardware is ridiculous.
I would be quite happy with the FFB so far except for one issue: There is an unrealistic and unnatural back-to-center spring which ruins everything. Is there a way to configure the settings so that this does not occur?
DD2 damper and spring settings I set to OFF.