PE? You mean FEI? That increases FFB Detail, sharpness and response. Have a look at the Manual of the Wheel Base for more detail of what Tuning Menu functions is doing what as a reference to start and just start with the EXACT recommended settings and dont tchange things you dont know what they actually do.. ;-)
as said, please have a look at the Manual, a LOT of details is explained there, also what the MPS is doing by changing it to Encoder, Pulse or Constant Mode.
Encoder is one button in each direction. Pulse sends a pulse signal for every 12 positions, so you have 12 buttons mappable with pulse and more or less the same also with constant but the signal is send constantly.
Would anyone care to offer their settings for ACC for the DD1? I see a lot of settings posted that feel really blah to me. Any people with experience mind sharing?
Hi, mi shifters/buttons (APM and PME) sometimes stop working midrace leaving me with no other option than to turn off the wheel and turn it on again, then the work again but i lose ffb. Anyone else with these issues?
Give me one good reason Fanatec can't test and update recommended settings after a year and major changes to the settings of the DD?
DD1 feels like trash compared to my CSWv2.5 that I ran nearly 100% recommended in every game except changing drift by 1. Even the lead developer makes a video early May and forgets all these new settings and his felt like trash too.
I could feel the limit of grip and when I would lose and regain instantly on CSWv2.5 and on the DD I barely feel it getting tighter or loser.
I set the gain in the game to 67, dynamic damper 0, road 0 effects. on the steering wheel I ffb 85 and for a100, Fei 40, drin -2 the rest of the default, sensitivity 900, so I have no clips, then I can always vary the ffb according to the car if I see that I have some clips.
I still have big problems finding the right FFB settings in ACC. When I hold the steering wheel straight it starts to shake so much that I can't keep it still (the only problem I have in ACC). I have been trying to find a solution for two weeks now, I hope someone can help me here!
Now I have tested the updated Fanatec settings, these also bring no improvement. Here I uploaded a video to illustrate the problem.
I´m using the currently updated recommended Fanatec ACC settings for the DD2 Wheelbase. The only thing i changed is the Ingame Gain from 60% to 30%. I also tried your shared ACC settings and i have the same problem. The wheel is going crazy if its straight. As soon as i change the angle of the wheel for a few degrees it stops shaking.
That's what I feared, did you loaded a F1 profile with Sen 360 sometime before?
There is a known issue that sometimes Auto SENS doesn't get loaded properly, you then have to open the driver once and then Auto is back at 1080 physical rotation.
It absolutely looks like this issue as the wheel indeed oscillates that extreme when SENS is 360 physically, so not particularly an issue with your base but with the firmware.
At leased i solved the SEN issue with your help. But the main problem is still there. In the following video SEN ist on AUTO and 1080 but there is no difference in the FFB at all. The wheel ist going crazy..
Therefore you use AUTO so the game sets the correct DOR for every car with correct bump stop (and they have much more than 360 btw, 360 is only the correct DOR for F1, so Sensitivity of 360 is completely wrong in ACC, that will give a very unlinear steering ratio.)
In fact, the lowest DOR for the GT4 cars for example is 480 for the KTM and McLaren. Average DOR for the GT4 cars is 720°.
Comments
OK , What does it mean to increase PE to 100?
PE? You mean FEI? That increases FFB Detail, sharpness and response. Have a look at the Manual of the Wheel Base for more detail of what Tuning Menu functions is doing what as a reference to start and just start with the EXACT recommended settings and dont tchange things you dont know what they actually do.. ;-)
Excuse me Maurice, how can I make the car turn in the corners, with little steering wheel?
Decrease SEN to 540 or so but thats not recommended.
What does this panel do? instead?
as said, please have a look at the Manual, a LOT of details is explained there, also what the MPS is doing by changing it to Encoder, Pulse or Constant Mode.
Encoder is one button in each direction. Pulse sends a pulse signal for every 12 positions, so you have 12 buttons mappable with pulse and more or less the same also with constant but the signal is send constantly.
Ok, thank you very much, you have been helpful, very kind.
Would anyone care to offer their settings for ACC for the DD1? I see a lot of settings posted that feel really blah to me. Any people with experience mind sharing?
Hi, mi shifters/buttons (APM and PME) sometimes stop working midrace leaving me with no other option than to turn off the wheel and turn it on again, then the work again but i lose ffb. Anyone else with these issues?
Yes it's a common issue with latest driver. Try the test export firmwares on page 20 in the driver 365 driver thread.
Give me one good reason Fanatec can't test and update recommended settings after a year and major changes to the settings of the DD?
DD1 feels like trash compared to my CSWv2.5 that I ran nearly 100% recommended in every game except changing drift by 1. Even the lead developer makes a video early May and forgets all these new settings and his felt like trash too.
I could feel the limit of grip and when I would lose and regain instantly on CSWv2.5 and on the DD I barely feel it getting tighter or loser.
Big thumbs down for the lack of basic support.
Maybe just try out to find your perfect FFB setting ngs for yourself and don't just rely on other people?!
ACC feels amazing, with the right settings.
I set the gain in the game to 67, dynamic damper 0, road 0 effects. on the steering wheel I ffb 85 and for a100, Fei 40, drin -2 the rest of the default, sensitivity 900, so I have no clips, then I can always vary the ffb according to the car if I see that I have some clips.
Whats the reason for running only 45% in Fanalab and 60% in game ACC?
Watching Barry Rowlands he looks for 100% in Fanalab and tune down in game. Which is a better starting point?
Because with 100% on the Base and for example 35 gain in ACC you lose a LOT of FFB resolution.
Starting point imo is to go with 60 FF on the Base with 60 gain in ACC for a DD2.
Thanks Maurice, i'll give that a whirl.
I'm on a DD1 but will try similar settings to start with.
Would you then mirror the rest of the standard settings? including SPR and DPR?
Those V2.5 settings with V347 are absolutely amazing in ACC.
Thumbs UP!!!
Hello guys,
I still have big problems finding the right FFB settings in ACC. When I hold the steering wheel straight it starts to shake so much that I can't keep it still (the only problem I have in ACC). I have been trying to find a solution for two weeks now, I hope someone can help me here!
Now I have tested the updated Fanatec settings, these also bring no improvement. Here I uploaded a video to illustrate the problem.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1u3MwTtEFi4
Setup:
Fanatec DD2 Wheelbase
Fanatec Formula V2 Wheel
Fanatec V3 pedals
PC Driver: 365
Wheelbase Firmware: 672
Wheelbase Motor Firmware: 38
Steering wheel Firmware: 34
Fanalab: 1.23
Thanks for your help!
Looks like completely wrong settings, either a wrong and much too low Sensitivity or way too high FFB.
Without knowing your Tuning Menu settings and in Game settings it's impossible to judge.
Thanks for your quick reply Maurice!
I´m using the currently updated recommended Fanatec ACC settings for the DD2 Wheelbase. The only thing i changed is the Ingame Gain from 60% to 30%. I also tried your shared ACC settings and i have the same problem. The wheel is going crazy if its straight. As soon as i change the angle of the wheel for a few degrees it stops shaking.
So what's your Tuning Menu Sensitivity setting?
Not Auto?
Currently its 1080. But when im using your ACC game profiles its on Auto and the problem is still there.
Maurice, here is another video. This time im using exacly your game profile for the Mercedes AMG GT3. The gain Ingame is set to 30%. Its unplayable .
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x9kMyqJcvlM
Something is completely wrong, but I don't know what. Under no circumstances it should look like in your video.
I think your wheel base might be broken and needs to be repaired or replaced so you should contact the support.
One thing I can imagine is that the DOR isn't properly loaded for some reason.
How much can you turn the wheel physically until you hit the bump stop, full 1080?
Oh no :(... The luck is not on my side with this wheelbase, first, two times scratches in the carbon plates and now it seems to be broken.
If SEN is on Auto i can turn the wheel 360 til i hit the bump. With SEN on 1080 I can turn the wheel 1080.
That's what I feared, did you loaded a F1 profile with Sen 360 sometime before?
There is a known issue that sometimes Auto SENS doesn't get loaded properly, you then have to open the driver once and then Auto is back at 1080 physical rotation.
It absolutely looks like this issue as the wheel indeed oscillates that extreme when SENS is 360 physically, so not particularly an issue with your base but with the firmware.
At leased i solved the SEN issue with your help. But the main problem is still there. In the following video SEN ist on AUTO and 1080 but there is no difference in the FFB at all. The wheel ist going crazy..
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TBitx4nSt-o
How can 1080 stearing possibly be the right setting for this game?
All cars (? at least quite a few of em) in game have a F1 type stearing wheel, and not a round one.
Anything above around 360 will be very strange for this game.
Therefore you use AUTO so the game sets the correct DOR for every car with correct bump stop (and they have much more than 360 btw, 360 is only the correct DOR for F1, so Sensitivity of 360 is completely wrong in ACC, that will give a very unlinear steering ratio.)
In fact, the lowest DOR for the GT4 cars for example is 480 for the KTM and McLaren. Average DOR for the GT4 cars is 720°.