But every other sim has it recommended at 100. Just ACC value got changed from initial 100 to recent 50. Suppose it interacts with ingame dynamic damping somehow?
I have just had my CSL DD (boost) and running it on Xbox with ACC, the steering is so weak I can do a full speed lap with just one finger around the wheel.
Latest drivers (as of 8-11-2021) all settings set to 100 in game and wheel.
I know the wheel can give more as AC is good with a great heavy feel.
I wonder why the recommended settings for SEN are different per wheel type. Some use SEN 1080 others SEN 900.
ACC in-game also defaults to SEN 900, so why is SEN 1080 suggested for some wheels?
Shouldn't the wheel turning radius be the same as in a real car? I have not done a lot of research on this, but apparently, most modern street and race cars do not use 1080 degrees of wheel turning anymore.
Its due to the dimension of the wheel you are using versus the actual car wheel dimension, say if you are using the Formula wheel then using a SEN of 900 may introduce additional oversteer due to the size of the Formula wheel and how quickly it will rotate. This is where a SEN of 1080 can help reduce that potential oversteer, but on a larger wheel like the Porsche 911 you can switch to SEN 900 to get the in game wheel to rotate without having to spin the physical wheel as much.
nope.. Its actually because CSW Bases only support 900° mechanically as they have a mechanical limiter for 900°. CSL Elite Bases have amechanical limiter of 1080° and DDs in theory can spin indefinitely but are set to 1080° for compatibility reasons as well..
i am very interested in this topic, many suggest to set the real degrees of the car, others to let 900 degrees, Fanatec suggests 1080, so is it fair to have 1080 for 300mm down wheels and 900 for 320mm wheels?
Does anyone running a fanatec rim have issues with the mps not working correctly, not all inputs are recognised on the porsche gt3 rim, using the standard fanalab profes of Maurice.
He recommends to use Dynamic Damper, not the regular new Damper feature which just feels horrible imho. You usually want as less Damper as possible, it will suck a lot of FFB details.
Try it out... If LEDs and Display is now working in PC mode, then PC mode is recommended. If thats not working, then its still Comp. Mode (which has no negative downside effect anyway so it really doesnt matter which mode you use in the first place...)
Ok thanks, I am certainly waiting for info from Fanatec on new parameters for this version, how they will integrate the damper inserted in Acc, in my opinion at 50% the steering wheel becomes too heavy, certainly Fanatec will make a review on the values of the various bases.
Thank you so much for link, learned so much from this video on the update and understanding the damper setting in game. My CSL DD feels loads better after his recommendation.
Many on youtube, steam, etc are waxing lyrical about the amazing changes that Kunos brought to ACC FFB. One even saying it now has the best FFB of ANY sim out there (he's using a DD1 or 2).
But for me, (for some reason) it actually feels worse. Track detail feels reduced and the car just seems to have numb weight now, with no real sensation of tyres on track. The added (and recommended) damper setting in game just rolls off detail even more. My old wheelbase settings felt excellent before but now feel no good.
I've changed firmware, drivers, tweaked and fiddled but I just cant engage with it like it felt prior to the 1.8 update. As a side note, Ams2 feels as lively, energetic and informative as ever so it's not a wheelbase issue.
I understand peoples own settings are sacred but could anyone (who likes their own settings) possibly reel off the full wheelbase settings for ACC on DD1 so I can dial them in and at least see if my initial settings were way out. Obviously Fanatec has the starter settings listed but i've already re-started from there to no avail.
Comments
If it feels good to you, go with it. You may find it differs from car to car as well.
But every other sim has it recommended at 100. Just ACC value got changed from initial 100 to recent 50. Suppose it interacts with ingame dynamic damping somehow?
I have just had my CSL DD (boost) and running it on Xbox with ACC, the steering is so weak I can do a full speed lap with just one finger around the wheel.
Latest drivers (as of 8-11-2021) all settings set to 100 in game and wheel.
I know the wheel can give more as AC is good with a great heavy feel.
I wonder why the recommended settings for SEN are different per wheel type. Some use SEN 1080 others SEN 900.
ACC in-game also defaults to SEN 900, so why is SEN 1080 suggested for some wheels?
Shouldn't the wheel turning radius be the same as in a real car? I have not done a lot of research on this, but apparently, most modern street and race cars do not use 1080 degrees of wheel turning anymore.
Its due to the dimension of the wheel you are using versus the actual car wheel dimension, say if you are using the Formula wheel then using a SEN of 900 may introduce additional oversteer due to the size of the Formula wheel and how quickly it will rotate. This is where a SEN of 1080 can help reduce that potential oversteer, but on a larger wheel like the Porsche 911 you can switch to SEN 900 to get the in game wheel to rotate without having to spin the physical wheel as much.
nope.. Its actually because CSW Bases only support 900° mechanically as they have a mechanical limiter for 900°. CSL Elite Bases have amechanical limiter of 1080° and DDs in theory can spin indefinitely but are set to 1080° for compatibility reasons as well..
So...
Or your own preference? 😏
No..
Good morning,
is Compatibility Mode still recommended for the CSL DD after ACCs 1.8 Update?
i am very interested in this topic, many suggest to set the real degrees of the car, others to let 900 degrees, Fanatec suggests 1080, so is it fair to have 1080 for 300mm down wheels and 900 for 320mm wheels?
The size of the wheel does NOT matter at all for this kind of SEN adjustment. Leave it at AUTO and the game will do the Job for you.
Leaving it on auto doesn't worrk for me, it doesn't line up in game. Have to have it on 1080 in fanalab for it to match the 1080 serting in game
Does anyone running a fanatec rim have issues with the mps not working correctly, not all inputs are recognised on the porsche gt3 rim, using the standard fanalab profes of Maurice.
Aris says 900, fanatec 1080, which is better, AUTO mode doesn't work with ACC
Since ACC got the big 1.8 update, and in game new "Damper" options, any new recommendations?
Especially for CSL DD users?
Should we stay at 400 Mhz or set 333 MHz as previous?
You cant set 333 anymore in the UI. It's only 133, 266 and 400.
Leave it definitely off in game!
I've found the M4 wheel goes totally light while braking with no in game damper. Aris explicitly recommends using some damper. Why do you say no?
He recommends to use Dynamic Damper, not the regular new Damper feature which just feels horrible imho. You usually want as less Damper as possible, it will suck a lot of FFB details.
I'm sorry Maurice but this is not correct. https://youtu.be/utg621g27YE start watching at around 1:30:30
Well then try it...
I dont like it and recommend to not use the new Damper at all.
But if you like it, then go for it.
Wont change the recommended settings from Fanatec though.
I am using SEN 900 in Fanatec control panel and 900 in-game ACC. Personal preference...
As it kind of sunk in yesterdays discussions, i'll try one last time:
Is Compatibility Mode still recommended for the CSL DD after ACCs 1.8 Update?
Try it out... If LEDs and Display is now working in PC mode, then PC mode is recommended. If thats not working, then its still Comp. Mode (which has no negative downside effect anyway so it really doesnt matter which mode you use in the first place...)
Ok thanks, I am certainly waiting for info from Fanatec on new parameters for this version, how they will integrate the damper inserted in Acc, in my opinion at 50% the steering wheel becomes too heavy, certainly Fanatec will make a review on the values of the various bases.
I can confirm CSL DD ( boost kit) in PC mode works fine with ACC , although the sim recognises the wheel as a "Fana wheel" and not a CSL DD.
By default in game Damper setting was 0% , which gave a negligible wheel oscillation at speed with my 918RSR wheel fitted .
( currently running modified suggested settings .. Sen 1080 to match in game setting and int = 1 )
Very impressed with the CSL DD having come from a CSW2.5 , very similar feel but the CSL feels stronger )
🙂
That's normal. Every future Fanatec Base will be recognized as "FANATEC Wheel"
Thank you so much for link, learned so much from this video on the update and understanding the damper setting in game. My CSL DD feels loads better after his recommendation.
Many on youtube, steam, etc are waxing lyrical about the amazing changes that Kunos brought to ACC FFB. One even saying it now has the best FFB of ANY sim out there (he's using a DD1 or 2).
But for me, (for some reason) it actually feels worse. Track detail feels reduced and the car just seems to have numb weight now, with no real sensation of tyres on track. The added (and recommended) damper setting in game just rolls off detail even more. My old wheelbase settings felt excellent before but now feel no good.
I've changed firmware, drivers, tweaked and fiddled but I just cant engage with it like it felt prior to the 1.8 update. As a side note, Ams2 feels as lively, energetic and informative as ever so it's not a wheelbase issue.
I understand peoples own settings are sacred but could anyone (who likes their own settings) possibly reel off the full wheelbase settings for ACC on DD1 so I can dial them in and at least see if my initial settings were way out. Obviously Fanatec has the starter settings listed but i've already re-started from there to no avail.
Many thanks