Maurice - would you mind posting starting settings I should try for ACC?
also what firmwares, sw etc.
@ Maurice do you have any other ideas how to solve my problem or do you think my dd2 wheelbase is broken and I should contact the Fanatec support?
What do I turn down if I want to decrease FFB strength but retain detail?
That's a contradiction in itself...
To lower FFB strength you need to decrease the FF value. But of course with a too low FF setting you also miss FFB details.
Maybe Murice can chime in, I'm on the latest AC:C and the latest beta drivers for the DD2 with 1.23 beta Fanalab. Using your profiles and checking my settings between Fanalab and AC:C, I am only getting the first and last LED to light up on my V2 wheel with AC:C. In F1 2019 / 2020 I get all the lights. Am I missing something? Is there a bug with AC:C? This issue persisted on beta and non-beta firmwares FYI.
There is no bug other than that FanaLab can not convert EU profiles with comma as separator to US/CA with punctuation as separator.
Therefore the profiles only work correctly for EU users and US users have to adjust the LED values all for themselves because they are all shown as 100 because the comma in the pws file was removed but not replaced with a dot.
You would then need to have a look into each pws file and adjust the correct values in FanaLab and overwrite the profile, so when you see 7965 as LED value in the pws this would mean 79.65 to enter in FanaLab etc.
That makes sense! I thought maybe AC:C 1.5 that came out last week broke some integration. I went ahead and did a test with my trusty 911.2 profile and they all work! Kudos.
Do I need to remove any commas anywhere else in the pws? While I'm in there, what values can I assign to tell the profile I am not using Fanatec pedals? I'm using HE pedals currently.
Really appreciate the quick answer and support! :)
I was looking for Maurice's profiles for ACC
Found them here: https://forum.fanatec.com/discussion/1125/fanalab-share-your-favorite-profiles/p4
I've been using Maurice's profiles but a bit curious.
Are they tuned for DD2 with Torque Key installed (high TQ on)?
When I adjust my FFB down in Fanalab do I need to adjust the gain down as well? I read elsewhere that Maurice mentioned reducing gain too much removes detail in the FFB but I found adjusting the gain down a bit with the FFB helped to smooth out the feeling. Is there a recommenced ratio to the adjustments or should I leave the in game Gain at recommended and keep playing with Fanalab FFB?
Always with Torque Key on a DD2.
I would leave the in game gain at 60-70. Lower gain vue reduces too much the game FFB resolution
Whats the recommended SW, FW etc i should be using now?
On a DD1, Formula V2 with APM.
346 or 365.
Whats that for? is there a beta list for:
Driver 346 has Base FW 662, Motor 30, SW 28.
Driver 365 has Base FW 672, Motor 38, SW 34.
got ya, will check what i'm on.
Tuning is bugging me, need to spend some time working on the right feeling for me. Some of the settings you can feel the notchyness around the centre....especially with high SPR and DPR
SPR isnt used by any game other than Forza (and AMS2 and pC2 but only in the menu, not while driving).
DPR is also not used by many games while driving, only AC when Gyro is active and ACC when Dynamic Damping is enabled or when FanaLabs Dynamic Damper is working and in F1 when damper is enabled in the options but other games dont really use DPR.
So SPR can knock OFF or leave 100.
DPR in ACC - dyno damping?
Hey guys, have the Fanatec CSL Elite Wheelbase 1.1 and set it up like recommended in the Forums, as well as ingame. But since the Patch today for ACC it feels worse, much softer, squishier than usual and giving me less feedback - totally baffling me as of right now I am lost on what to do to get it back to where it was :(
I unplugged it, resarted and flashed the firmware with latest drivers again, but no effect. It feels def worse than before Patch, to soft, to squishy, at he same settings that I previously used - anyone else experiencing the same?
Anyone experiencing very light feel in the wheel when turning, I assume it is meant to be the steering going light when understeering but it does it on every corner for me. Is there a setting I can change for this?
Which Wheel Base? Which Steering Wheel? Which car in game? What are your FFB settings on the wheel and in the game?
Hi Maurice, DD1 with V2 formula rim, and recommended settings in the OP of this thread and recommended in game settings from OP but with 60 instead if 45 in game. Happens with all cars. Only just noticed it since one of the last ACC updates.
ACC - mein Clubsport Lenkrad dreht schneller als das virtuelle Lenkrad im Auto mit den Einstellungen wir oben - selbst bei 50% (Range ist 50 - 200). Kann man das ändern?
Good morning since we are talking about FFB, I wanted to ask if you adapt the Ffb for each car? Me on my 2.5 80 ffb and 40 Fei -1 drift, the rest at 100, I don't remember the value on ACC but it should be about 60. Why am I asking this because obviously every car has physics? so should you adapt the FFb if the steering wheel feels too heavy? I use the 720 a lot, the steering wheel is not very hard when cornering, while with Ferrari Porsche and Lamborghini I am forced to lower the value from the steering wheel. or should I leave a standard value for all cars. I hope I was clear, sorry for my bad English
Hi Maurice, maybe I'm missing some steps, but I'm not able to have ACC using each car DOR nor the correct bump stop by setting SEN to AUTO.
The only way I'm able to have the correct car DOR with the bump stop, is to set both the SEN and the steer lock in ACC options with the same degrees and according to the particular DOR of the car used.
For instance, if I use the Porsche (800º DOR), I set SEN to 800 and set ACC steer lock also to 800. This way the correct DOR and bump stop works. If I change to the BMW GT4 (500º DOR), I set SEN to 500 and ACC steer lock to 500, and so forth depending of each car DOR.
But if I set SEN to AUTO, even if in ACC the steer lock is the DOR of the car used (800º in the case of the Porsche), I have what seems to be 1080 SEN, so no correct DOR nor bump stop.
Is there any step required so ACC cars DOR automatically set the SEN according to the car used and with the correct bump stop?
So with the new Fanalab and drivers, the recommended settings for ACC are now different.
Any ideas why? for instance max force from 45 down to 38%.....
There is a known mismatch between Forum Settings and Profiles, will be addressed to the correct values soon (correct and newer are the forum ones!)
Where do you guys see these updated settings?
>Where do you guys see these updated settings?
I found the FF 38 here:
@maurice böschen , will Fanatec ever create a better way to find the in-game settings for all the supported games? I really appreciate the “recommended settings” in Fanalabs for the Fanatec settings, but searching the internet for a forum that mentions in-game settings doesn’t feel very polished. Especially for guys like me who have spend thousands of dollars on fanatec’s most premium products. Perhaps a single page on the fanatec website that has in game settings for all games, that has an “updated” on this date, so I know I’m not missing some new configuration that’s buried on a multipage forum. Same goes for the shared Fanalab profiles. I hate having to search and search for various profiles buried in forums. Is it possible to have a more streamlined approach? Perhaps a repository on fanalabs to download?
I especially do not like that many games indicate I’m to turn my DD2 to COMP V2.5 mode, when that’s unnecessary. At least, my wheel is compatible in normal PC mode. Should I toggle anyway? Am I losing fidelity doing that?
In Fanalab just click on the blue button for the recommended FFB settings and you directly veg redirected into the recommended FFB thread for each game. It's the simplest way in the World and I dont see how to make it more simple to Guide anyone to the recommended in game settings as yoh dont really need to search the Internet for anything...