Hi, Marcel. The pedals are connected to the base via RJ12 not to the PC. There is no pedal input or response on the driver page. When I go to a game, AC, there is no response from the pedals. The steering wheel inputs, steering and shifting, all work fine. Nothing from the pedals. I went back to the 346 driver, which was working fine before but still nothing.
Did you also downgrade all firmware versions after going back to driver 346?
Running a CSL Elite Racing Wheel (PS4), CSL Elite Pedals LC, CS Shifter and CS Handbrake. Been running official firmware included in official driver version 328 until end of August. Decided to try driver version 372, 373, 374 then 380 and now on 381. All firmware updated to latest versions.
Commented on the same topic on November 9th running driver version 380. The Compatibility Mode for the CSL Elite Racing Wheel (PS4) is not working at all in neither yellow (Fanatec ClubSport Wheel Base V2) nor purple (6 axis 14 button device with hat switch) mode. Yellow mode will now ask for a firmware update every time the Fanatec Wheel Properties is opened. Purple mode opens the properties page, but no axis are working just the buttons and the hat switch.
I am starting to sound like a broken record, but since no one seems to react or even interested in resolving the problem I will keep posting. Compatibility Mode is a part of the product and since it is has not been working for many versions, it makes me wonder where your focus is?
Purple mode is a PS4 compatibility mode and doesn't offer any function on PC including checking it through the property page, similar for yellow mode.
I have installed this FFB because today my wheel suddenly became light in ACC and it never recovered. Now installed this Firmware and right after installation and calibration I get this problem - I get multiple buttons clicked while physically only pressing one button. Please see the picture above. There are various combinations - but basically you just click a single button on the wheel and the input gets sent for 3 buttons. Sometimes I believe a combination of buttons leads to the wheel changing the mode from PC to COMP, which disconnects the wheel and you lose your input. What do I do now?
To be more precise - I've been having this issue like 3 weeks ago with an older driver (34x?) too, but with the 380 it only happened once and then it never appeared again - but now I have this and this time there is aboslutely 0 physical change on the wheel, everything is the same, so I am back to the idea that this is caused by some software issue after all.
Aaaaah this is so frustrating... 😥
are these double inputs only happening on the drivers test page or also in-game? Yes there are button combinations to change the mode, I would suggest to use the view and Y rubbered buttons on top of the UHX to switch modes back.
After testing variuos settings i just cant get the feeling in ACC. Different story in AC where the driving sensation is still good. Some doubts emerge on this driver.
what are your settings? Heard this from someone else before as well but then he added that there was an ACC update as well and they changed game FFB slightly. You can also try going back to the previous driver you were happy with to double check if its the same as before or also different.
Hello Guys I would like to ask you a question. A friend of mine tried to update from 328 drivers to 381 his new wheel Clubsport Steering Wheel Carbon. During the firmware update it showed something Hex File failed and the update somehow stacked and nothing happened during this time. We tried to unplug the USB and plug it again (restart the wheel base) but then this light stacked and now the USB cannot be recognised neither to the port of the PC nor to a laptop. Can you find a solution please. Thanks a lot I am waiting for an answer
Installed driver and firmware in place of 346. I had com port errors when I tried it first time but it "took" on the second attempt. I played around with it for a couple of hours and went back to 346 to compare (346 updated without incident). Definately more information in 381 feelings.
I then updated to 381 again and again got constant com port errors when updating the motor firmware. Tried every available usb port. No joy.
I uninstalled the driver, restarted, re-installed the driver and the firmware update went in first time. So if anyone gets Com port errors or such like when updating motor firmware, try uninstalling, restarting, re-installing and attempting the flash again.
Edit: (I had tried 352 before but couldn't get it dialled in)
thanks for that information, could you zip and send me the logfiles from this folder please: C:\Users\Public\Fanatec Logs
is it maybe in PS4 mode? Then press the mode button to change to PC mode (red)
Νο Marcel it was not in ps4 mode. The led was red and I was sure that it was in pc mode. The installation of the 381 driver was ok but then when we tried to update the wheel base's firmware to 680 (from 672) it stacked saying that a hex file was failed. I tried to delete everything that has to do with fanatec and reinstall it but that didn't help the wheel base's firmware update was stacked. Also when we unplugged the USB the led remained changing colors like it was updating. He decided to disconnected the base from the electrical outlet and then when he plug it back in, the base could not open at all. We have already send a message support to Fanatec and we are waiting for an answer. I have also a characteristic video but I can't upload it due to its extension. Thanks for answering, if you have understand my problem please say something! Thanks again!!
Νο Marcel it was not in ps4 mode. The led was red and I was sure that it was in pc mode. The installation of the 381 driver was ok but then when we tried to update the wheel base's firmware to 680 (from 672) it stacked saying that a hex file was failed. I tried to delete everything that has to do with fanatec and reinstall it but that didn't help the wheel base's firmware update was stacked. Also when we unplugged the USB the led remained changing colors like it was updating. He decided to disconnected the base from the electrical outlet and then when he plug it back in, the base could not open at all. We have already send a message support to Fanatec and we are waiting for an answer. I have also a characteristic video but I can't upload it due to its extension. Thanks for answering, if you have understand my problem please say something! Thanks again!!
Please try to upload the video on youtube then and mark it as hidden. The problem we have with the picture you shared with us, is the fact the base shows the purple LED, which is the compatibility mode. Did you try to press and hold the power button for approx. 10 seconds to get it in bootloader mode and flash the fw again?
Please try to upload the video on youtube then and mark it as hidden. The problem we have with the picture you shared with us, is the fact the base shows the purple LED, which is the compatibility mode. Did you try to press and hold the power button for approx. 10 seconds to get it in bootloader mode and flash the fw again?
Νο Marcel it was not in ps4 mode. The led was red and I was sure that it was in pc mode. The installation of the 381 driver was ok but then when we tried to update the wheel base's firmware to 680 (from 672) it stacked saying that a hex file was failed. I tried to delete everything that has to do with fanatec and reinstall it but that didn't help the wheel base's firmware update was stacked. Also when we unplugged the USB the led remained changing colors like it was updating. He decided to disconnected the base from the electrical outlet and then when he plug it back in, the base could not open at all. We have already send a message support to Fanatec and we are waiting for an answer. I have also a characteristic video but I can't upload it due to its extension. Thanks for answering, if you have understand my problem please say something! Thanks again!!
Yes I tried that Sascha but I think that the problem is in the "inside" of the base cause IT IS NOT OPENING AT ALL. I tried to get it in booloader but I can't because it cannot open at all..
Please try to upload the video on youtube then and mark it as hidden. The problem we have with the picture you shared with us, is the fact the base shows the purple LED, which is the compatibility mode. Did you try to press and hold the power button for approx. 10 seconds to get it in bootloader mode and flash the fw again?
Also forget the compatibility mode, the led was changing colors in that time and I just took the photograph when it was purple..
Yes I tried that Sascha but I think that the problem is in the "inside" of the base cause IT IS NOT OPENING AT ALL. I tried to get it in booloader but I can't because it cannot open at all..
What do you mean by opening? Open it in the driver? You need to start the base. Power it on.
And no I can't give you my e-mail, Im not working for Fanatec. 😅
What do you mean by opening? Open it in the driver? You need to start the base. Power it on.
And no I can't give you my e-mail, Im not working for Fanatec. 😅
I mean that I AM PRESSING the power button and the base is not starting. This is why I send a message to the support. I think that if you see the video you are going to understand many more things than me and analyze it better..
During the firmware update of the wheel base: 1 2 3 HEX FILE WAS FAILED,I then unplug the usb and the base's led continues to flash. By open I mean: I press the power button and the wheel cannot calibrate because the base cannot start working..
During the firmware update of the wheel base: 1 2 3 HEX FILE WAS FAILED,I then unplug the usb and the base's led continues to flash. By open I mean: I press the power button and the wheel cannot calibrate because the base cannot start working..
Okay if the wheelbase is completely dead no one here can do anything about it I fear.
what are your settings? Heard this from someone else before as well but then he added that there was an ACC update as well and they changed game FFB slightly. You can also try going back to the previous driver you were happy with to double check if its the same as before or also different.
I've got the same problem. I use CSL Elite V 2.5 with PS4 twice and the base switch off. Impossible to switch on the power button.
I wrote to support team last friday but no news. For information firmware was updated for a week and I played Asseto Corsa and Grid 3 on PC without problem. Then I played on PS4 (Gran turismo) about 1 hour and the base switch off. Strange for a new product.
Fixed: Thumb Encoder Inputs inconsistent / missing. Adjusted PS4 Thumb Encoder handling, because detection was worse after last release
After I done this update yesterday on my Clubsport F1 2020 wheel my thumb wheels aren't doing anything...if I roll up it takes 3 clicks before something happens and down is most of the times in 1 click. Before this update it was working perfectly ! Is it possible to remove this update from my wheel and install the previous one ?
Yahoo!! I got my pedals back! When you suggested maybe connecting by USB, I looked at the circuit board to see how that was possible and I noticed a second RJ12 receptacle alongside the USB port. On a whim, I plugged the RJ12 cable into that second port and the pedals came back to life. Heretofore, I had only plugged the cable into the one port on the side opposite the USB port. I'm back in business! Thanks for your help and persistence Sascha!
Hey Carl,
thanks also for your workaround :)
After i going back to 380 i got the same problem back after one Week, now i solved it again with installing 381. Again it works for me 2 Days and then the pedals stop working again. Changing the port on the Base worked for me also .
I hope this problem would be fixed ! Because i got the problem randomly , last time the brake pedals stop working at the begin from a 6h Race ! :( It needs some time to unmount the Base from the setup for changing the cable !
Serioisly, just the brakes stops working. Throotle works well all the time.
After i going back to 380 i got the same problem back after one Week, now i solved it again with installing 381. Again it works for me 2 Days and then the pedals stop working again. Changing the port on the Base worked for me also .
I hope this problem would be fixed ! Because i got the problem randomly , last time the brake pedals stop working at the begin from a 6h Race ! :( It needs some time to unmount the Base from the setup for changing the cable !
Serioisly, just the brakes stops working. Throotle works well all the time.
Did you check if all plugs going from each pedal to the circuit board and from the circuit board into the base are correctly plugged in?
Did you check if all plugs going from each pedal to the circuit board and from the circuit board into the base are correctly plugged in?
Yes, i checked...it looks pretty well. Pedals and Base mounted on the Speedmaster wheelbase and cables are fixed to get no damage. I think not that they get slack while driving.
An Example: I drive my quali , go in box, waiting 2min to start the game, i dont press the brake or other pedal in this time or pulling on the cable. I Down - or upgrade the driver and all works fine again for some times or so .
Yes, i checked...it looks pretty well. Pedals and Base mounted on the Speedmaster wheelbase and cables are fixed to get no damage. I think not that they get slack while driving.
An Example: I drive my quali , go in box, waiting 2min to start the game, i dont press the brake or other pedal in this time or pulling on the cable. I Down - or upgrade the driver and all works fine again for some times or so .
I don't know what a speedmaster wheelbase is so I'm assuming the pedals are plugged in via USB? Are you using an USB hub? My guess is maybe the USB ports are overloaded or maybe the USB cable going bad? Doesn't sound like a driver issue at this point.
Hi Marcel, Given the other thread got closed, I wondered if you had found any time to look at the reoccuring notchyness with CSW v2.5 with motor firmware 22?
I have installed the latest drivers/firmware for my CSL Elite Base V1.1 with P1 rim but somehow when i turn my wheel left in iracing the wheel on the car turns right i can also see it happening with the wheel image in options (iRacing)
I have installed the latest drivers/firmware for my CSL Elite Base V1.1 with P1 rim but somehow when i turn my wheel left in iracing the wheel on the car turns right i can also see it happening with the wheel image in options (iRacing)
you need to re-assign the steering in the iracing options as you did it wrong during calibration.
I don't know what a speedmaster wheelbase is so I'm assuming the pedals are plugged in via USB? Are you using an USB hub? My guess is maybe the USB ports are overloaded or maybe the USB cable going bad? Doesn't sound like a driver issue at this point.
Nope, they plugged in with RJ12 on Base, but i will order the USB Adapter when it happens again,maybe it will help.
FW381 feels pretty well, just the Brakes sick sometimes. Maybe the connection from RJ12 rly get loosing connection because the FFB, i dont know.But i will check
Comments
Did you also downgrade all firmware versions after going back to driver 346?
Purple mode is a PS4 compatibility mode and doesn't offer any function on PC including checking it through the property page, similar for yellow mode.
are these double inputs only happening on the drivers test page or also in-game? Yes there are button combinations to change the mode, I would suggest to use the view and Y rubbered buttons on top of the UHX to switch modes back.
what are your settings? Heard this from someone else before as well but then he added that there was an ACC update as well and they changed game FFB slightly. You can also try going back to the previous driver you were happy with to double check if its the same as before or also different.
is it maybe in PS4 mode? Then press the mode button to change to PC mode (red)
thanks for that information, could you zip and send me the logfiles from this folder please: C:\Users\Public\Fanatec Logs
Νο Marcel it was not in ps4 mode. The led was red and I was sure that it was in pc mode. The installation of the 381 driver was ok but then when we tried to update the wheel base's firmware to 680 (from 672) it stacked saying that a hex file was failed. I tried to delete everything that has to do with fanatec and reinstall it but that didn't help the wheel base's firmware update was stacked. Also when we unplugged the USB the led remained changing colors like it was updating. He decided to disconnected the base from the electrical outlet and then when he plug it back in, the base could not open at all. We have already send a message support to Fanatec and we are waiting for an answer. I have also a characteristic video but I can't upload it due to its extension. Thanks for answering, if you have understand my problem please say something! Thanks again!!
Please try to upload the video on youtube then and mark it as hidden. The problem we have with the picture you shared with us, is the fact the base shows the purple LED, which is the compatibility mode. Did you try to press and hold the power button for approx. 10 seconds to get it in bootloader mode and flash the fw again?
Yes I tried that Sascha but I think that the problem is in the "inside" of the base cause IT IS NOT OPENING AT ALL. I tried to get it in booloader but I can't because it cannot open at all..
Maybe I could have your emal Sascha so that I can send it to you or not??
Also forget the compatibility mode, the led was changing colors in that time and I just took the photograph when it was purple..
What do you mean by opening? Open it in the driver? You need to start the base. Power it on.
And no I can't give you my e-mail, Im not working for Fanatec. 😅
I mean that I AM PRESSING the power button and the base is not starting. This is why I send a message to the support. I think that if you see the video you are going to understand many more things than me and analyze it better..
During the firmware update of the wheel base: 1 2 3 HEX FILE WAS FAILED,I then unplug the usb and the base's led continues to flash. By open I mean: I press the power button and the wheel cannot calibrate because the base cannot start working..
Okay if the wheelbase is completely dead no one here can do anything about it I fear.
That's for sure man, but would the Support give me a new wheel or not? I bought everything a week ago..
That's not a question you can answer, thanks anyway..
settings from "FanaLab - Share your favorite profiles - Page 5 — Fanatec Forum" with -2 DRI and FF 100. I'll wate for a FFB update in ACC or eventually revert to driver 347 and give it a try.
Hi,
I've got the same problem. I use CSL Elite V 2.5 with PS4 twice and the base switch off. Impossible to switch on the power button.
I wrote to support team last friday but no news. For information firmware was updated for a week and I played Asseto Corsa and Grid 3 on PC without problem. Then I played on PS4 (Gran turismo) about 1 hour and the base switch off. Strange for a new product.
He means turn on the base. It was directly transleted from Greek which we have 2-3 different expressions about it.
He cannot even turn on the base on bootloader mode apparently to try and redo from scratch the firmware update.
If I understood correctly from the comments here and fanatec's owner FB page.
ClubSport Steering Wheel Formula V2:
After I done this update yesterday on my Clubsport F1 2020 wheel my thumb wheels aren't doing anything...if I roll up it takes 3 clicks before something happens and down is most of the times in 1 click. Before this update it was working perfectly ! Is it possible to remove this update from my wheel and install the previous one ?
Ps4
CSL Elite
Hey Carl,
thanks also for your workaround :)
After i going back to 380 i got the same problem back after one Week, now i solved it again with installing 381. Again it works for me 2 Days and then the pedals stop working again. Changing the port on the Base worked for me also .
I hope this problem would be fixed ! Because i got the problem randomly , last time the brake pedals stop working at the begin from a 6h Race ! :( It needs some time to unmount the Base from the setup for changing the cable !
Serioisly, just the brakes stops working. Throotle works well all the time.
Did you check if all plugs going from each pedal to the circuit board and from the circuit board into the base are correctly plugged in?
Yes, i checked...it looks pretty well. Pedals and Base mounted on the Speedmaster wheelbase and cables are fixed to get no damage. I think not that they get slack while driving.
An Example: I drive my quali , go in box, waiting 2min to start the game, i dont press the brake or other pedal in this time or pulling on the cable. I Down - or upgrade the driver and all works fine again for some times or so .
I don't know what a speedmaster wheelbase is so I'm assuming the pedals are plugged in via USB? Are you using an USB hub? My guess is maybe the USB ports are overloaded or maybe the USB cable going bad? Doesn't sound like a driver issue at this point.
Hi Marcel, Given the other thread got closed, I wondered if you had found any time to look at the reoccuring notchyness with CSW v2.5 with motor firmware 22?
I have installed the latest drivers/firmware for my CSL Elite Base V1.1 with P1 rim but somehow when i turn my wheel left in iracing the wheel on the car turns right i can also see it happening with the wheel image in options (iRacing)
you need to re-assign the steering in the iracing options as you did it wrong during calibration.
Question: I´ve got the base model from CSL ELITE PS4, and I kind of "lost" the capability of setting the wheel on Compatibiity (purple) mode!!!
Is that still possible? If yes.. how???
Nope, they plugged in with RJ12 on Base, but i will order the USB Adapter when it happens again,maybe it will help.
FW381 feels pretty well, just the Brakes sick sometimes. Maybe the connection from RJ12 rly get loosing connection because the FFB, i dont know.But i will check