Thank you for the log files and screenshots
Does "only" the update not work or is the base in general unusable?
It might be because the fix of the base updater wasn't applied yet to the other updaters yet. Thanks for the information.
It might be an issue with where your power supply is positioned. Do you have a boost kit or the smaller PSU?
Please try to move the PSU and the power cable further away from the shifter and its cable to see if it gets better and let me know.
Can you show a screenshot because for me its shown like this with black F in white box which should work for both bright and dark task bar.
Did you both try re-positioning the PSU and its cable further away from the base, shifter and its cable?
Junnan, do you have a boost kit as well?
It seems the game didn't re-set it to default when exiting. A restart of the base should solve it or in other games which don't use the auto setup you could choose 1080 instead, then they never get influenced by another game forcing an auto setup but not resetting it after.
Thanks for the report, we'll check it out
It looks like its related to how close the boost kit and power cable are positioned to either the base, shifter or cable to the shifter. It could also be amplified by the type of cockpit because. Where is your PSU currently positioned?
We are still trying to find out where the issue is coming from, do you have any clues what might trigger the issue. Have you tried different things already to find a workaround?
If you want to have high torque available again currently the only way it to use driver 402 again and flash the older firmware.
Everyone having the low torque issue: Which graphics card do you use?
Theoretically this should not be related but as we haven't found any other clue so far we have to follow this hint:
One user changed from 1080ti to 3090, before the change high torque was available, after the change he only has low torque.
no, I just installed the drivers and installed the new firmware from the update manager
Hey Marcel ,I got the csl dd boost kit and i had tried move away the PSU as far as i can from the base or shifter and cable .Unfortunately it doesn't work for me . I don't know its relate to the PSU position or not but it's worked well in driver 410 . If this work for another reporter , please let me know how far away the PSU i should move to . thanks .
So, just install 411 on my PC without Uninstalling 410? That doesn't seem right.
In your previous post you said Firmware, if you are talking about the 410 DRIVER then yes uninstall the driver first then reboot then install the new 411 DRIVER and reboot, then run the firmware updater from 411 fanatec control panel and see if there is any new firmware for your devices.
Thanks. Sorry about the mixup.
Here are a couple of pictures, the shifter cable runs along the top from shifter to wheel base, the PSU as as far away along the floor as I can get it.
I even tried moving the cables further apart too but there is only so much you can do with that as they eventually have to come into proximity in the back of the DD1. It's a GT Omega Apex steering wheel stand
My PSU were on the side of my rig aprox. 70 cm from the shifter, and the power cabel to the CSL DD were in the same cabel sorter as the shifter's cabel.
Now have I moved the cpu to the other side of the rig, laying on the floor 160 cm away from the shifter, and the power cabel are not longer near the shifter cabel.
But it did not help, still the same problem.
180 PSU was moved as far away as possible. No change. It will not calibrated. I have tried everything.
@Marcel Pfister I have tried everything that Nils as attempted. I also got the screen shot he did with 100 pop-ups.
Ok, I looked into this electrical interference issue a bit more, I decided to take my CSL DD off of the wheel stand with the mounting plate still attached. It was still not working.
However when I removed one of the screws (pic attached) which just so happened to have a washer underneath (not on top like the other screws) I was able to successfully calibrate. I do think it is related to how the screws may be mounted underneath, not sure how but at least its something worth looking into
Also you can see the supplied mounting t-nut also dropped out so not sure if it was removing the washer or both that fixed it
Is this at all related to the issue I reported a while back, where the BME will report "CAUTION! Torque Key Inserted!" seemingly at random during the middle of a race (ACC, in my case)? Old video here, for reference: Podiumbme Debug-2 (streamable.com)
I'm still seeing this issue as of v411- the 45min race I was in last night had it happen around 7 times or so. Again, there is no perceived loss of any FFB (I'm still using Maurice's strong-man profiles, with some minor LED tweaks), and the screen only appears on the BME- not the DD1 itself.
DD1, BME, Podium Hub- all updated to the latest FW.
fanatec podium f1 ps4 / ps5 v411 I have problems with the sensitivity of the steering wheel, I cannot calibrate in automatic in any game. I think the sensitivity with this last controller does not work. and the "spr and dpr" settings don't work like they did before the update. I have to set it to off in order to play.
I have the same Problem with my DD1 and BME with porsche wheel and Apm .
Have the problem only since version V409-411
WEITERE Infos zu 918 RSR Low Torque Bug:
Ich habe jetzt wieder die GTX 1080TI verbaut und heute die 411er Treiber erneut installiert. Leider hab ich jetzt auch mit dieser Grafikkarte den Low Torque Bug also hängt das damit wohl eher nicht zusammen. Der Fehler tritt aber erst auf wenn man die Firmware der Base und des Wireless QR updated. Die 411er Treiber alleine zu installieren verursachen keinen Bug.
Ich hatte lt. Fanatec Firmwaremanager vorher Wireless QR FW Version 0 (kein Bug) und nach dem flashen die Version 6 (mit Bug). Also der Fehler liegt entweder in der Firmware für die WheelBase oder für den Wireless Quickrelease.
Hoffe das hilft weiter. Viel Erfolg beim debuggen!!
After installing drivers 410 and 411 respectively.
My steering wheel loses FF for a few seconds and then slowly comes back.
At the moment it only happens to me in dirt rally 2.0 (it seems that it is when you have been playing for a while) when before this it did not do it to me.
I tried the ETS2 game and there it doesn't
Yeah it started then because they added replication of this message on the BME as a new feature. The problem is something is triggering it to be reset, and it doesn't seem like loss of physical connectivity in any way.
If Marcel/Maurice could use any more data on this: I've noticed it happens most often in the middle of a corner, usually when ABS is firing. It almost seems like something about the telemetry being delivered to the BME in such a quick burst is causing it to very briefly crash and reset.
That's all pure speculation of course, but in the meantime it would be greatly appreciated if you guys could offer a workaround: please allow us to disable the torque key message on the BME until this is fixed. Even if it's a crude registry hack or something- just looking for some relief of the distraction of getting that message mid-race. Thanks!
I'm having an issue with my CSL DD not recognizing my McLaren GT3 V2 or WRC wheels. In the control panel none of the buttons, switches or paddles will register. The updater keeps requesting the wheel firmware to be updated but when trying to update it will never take. It keeps showing the firmware as 0 in the control panel.
I am assuming it's an issue with the CSL DD as when I use both wheels on my older CSW 2.5 wheelbase both wheels function and work perfectly.
I have attached my logs. Do I need to RMA my CSL DD?
Worked fine for me, thanks.👍️
I updated with new firmware, but didn't solve the probolem.
To follow Gery Joyce electrical interference trace I took my base complety of the rig, and than I was able to calibrate the shifter in the Fanatec Controll Panel and on the wheel. I can also open the open the old interface, and I don't get 100 message boxes so I can calibrate there to.
Mounted the base back on the rig and, and now it started to be litle sketcy again. I can still calibrate through Fantatec Controll Panel and the old interface, but not on the wheel anymore. When I push the two buttons it startes the calibration prosedure but jump out after a few seconds.
When I am driving a car in RaceRoom with manual shifter it the car switches between the gear and neutural. Also in the Fanatec Controll Panel the gear indicator flashes and on the wheel the gear number flashes.
I attach some videos which shows the different situations.