Not necessarily. There's a lot of software combinations going on here, including the game (ACC in my case), Fanalab, and all of the settings involved. There have been long periods where if I'm driving a certain car I might not see this happen as often or even not at all, but it's difficult to point at those instances as a reliable datapoint.
Plus, quite a few BME users have reported it by this point. I think it's unlikely that we all would have the same hardware issue.
so my combination is following: BME on PHub with APM, on DD1, CSS V1.5, no Fanatec Pedals, ACC, Fanalab and drivers latest versions. Never had the issue you reported, we can ofc compare FFB settings if you want.
Agreed. I did have intermittent issues with the BME which caused it to lose connection briefly, resulting in torque message, and it was related to EMI affecting the USB signal. Took me months to find the cause of the issue - including an RMA of my equipment. Changing the cable for a shielded one and rerouting it away from power cables fixed the issue. I suspected software for a longtime but at least for me it wasn't.
Hey Gray Joyce , thank you for your very useful information and that did worked !!! I did the same and the H shifter could be calibrated but i found the signal not very stable ( the red dot was keep flashing ) . I will change to short rj12 cable see how s that work . Thanks again .
My WQR firmware shows correctly as 6 as I still have this issue.
Interesting but I guess you've already used the original cable which came with the base and had a ferrite core?
Regarding low torque
As people are more and more suggesting EMI playing a roll here and there, could someone with the low torque issue try to separate cables (USB/Power) a bit and/or put their base on a table/floor instead of the cockpit to see if it makes a difference? Not sure why it should be an issue now after a firmware update but the fact that it doesn't happen for anyone wants me to try everything which could be different for users.
No, ist 6 on my base
Yes, the issue was when I was using that cable. It was bundled close together with some other cables though in sheathing - including a DC power cable for a small monitor which I suspect was the issue.
To be clear, I think there are two separate issues going on here:
I'm seeing case #1, while I see others here reporting case #2.
For whatever it's worth, I tried Gary's recommendation of a ferrite core USB cable. That's what I'm using today. I also moved the DD1 to its own dedicated USB controller with its own dedicated PCI-E lane to rule out any USB issues.
I submitted an official Fanatec support ticket yesterday, and they're recommending that I reseat the connection for the QR on the DD1, so I'll try that tonight. However I'm skeptical that this will fix the issue. If I do the FFB test in the game controller panel it shakes the wheel violently, and even that test won't trigger the problem.
Trying to think of more unique aspects to my setup: I have some pretty aggressive Fanalab LED settings for TC and ABS events (it lights up my room like a Christmas tree when I hit TC)- I might try ruling out Fanalab's if the QR reseating doesn't solve the problem.
If anyone has any other ideas I'm all ears.
I grab the Forza motor sport pack.
The base is the ClubSport Wheel Base V2.5 with the ClubSport Steering Wheel Universal Hub for XBOX ONE and I also have the 2020 F1 steering wheel but with this I have not tried it in dirt rally2.0 (which is where I notice that it loses FF by a few seconds and come back)
Just to recap- your EMI problem was inducing complete loss of connection with the wheelbase (and thus loss of control of your virtual car), right?
Will be fine if the picture in "Stearing wheel" page can show also if "ClubSport Magnetic Paddle Module" is installed 😁
I don't know if this thread is correct, I'll just give it a try :-)
I have the problem with my CSL DD that the new driver UI no longer opens. Only this Game Controller window appears and when I click on Properties there, the message comes that I should use the new UI:
After clicking OK, only the icon remains in the system tray and that's it ... 😕 - it's really frustrating!
I tried all the solutions that could be found, from a new USB port, by completely reinstalling the drivers (see https://forum.fanatec.com/discussion/1758/symptom-fanatec-driver-does-not-install-uninstall-correctly ).
Unfortunately, I also get an error when I try to repair or uninstall the driver - I couldn't find anything on the internet for that.
I'm slowly getting really frustrated, I was looking forward to switching from the CSL Elite to the DD ... now I'm thinking about building back again ... 😏
The problem was an driver 410 and is still with 411...
I also uploaded the logs here ...
I had several issues all intermittently - punctuated with hours when everything worked fine. Issues included brief loss of control, ITM stopping and the torque key message appearing.
ich habe heute wie aus heiterem Himmel wieder den HIGH TORQUE Mode... es wurde nichts am Setup verändert und das Rig steht da wie immer... Es handelt sich also scheinbar um ein sporadisches Problem. EMI schließe ich aus da ein Firmwaredowngrade das Problem instant und dauerhaft behebt und ich bisher noch nie ein EMI Problem in irgend einer Art und Weise feststellen konnte.
I also have this problem. Every time I reboot I need to enable csp v3 manual mode and recalibrate. A little frustrating when you are relying on muscle memory and each time you calibrate it is never the same. I have tried reverting back to firmware 1.30 on pedals and fanatec drivers 410 with no luck. Can I go all the way back to v402 with the current firmware versions on hardware?
I'll check tonight and post back.
Mine says 6.. Last night I tried 410 & 411 and both were stuck in low torque mode.. I did manually flash both 410 & 411.. I do experience low torque when stuck in low torque mode.. I flashed back to 402 then installed 411 drivers and everything is working perfect.. I do have ferrite cores on all my cables..
I believe the low torque issue with DD wheels has to do with the firmware thinking that it has the basic QR on. It makes no difference with the torque key inserted and you get the message to update from the basic qr.
I rolled back the firmware and have high torque mode enabled again.
Of course it's an issue in the firmware BUT not everyone has the issue so there is more to it than just firmware... Big question is just "what" exactly...
Well Maurice i thought the same but i tested it yesterday with my DD2 / Formula V2 where i'm still on V402 but he's right, you can enable high torque by clicking any button or with one of the shifters. Not sure if it was possible with older versions also but if so it was a welcome bug in V402 that can be re-introduced in newer versions if you ask me ;)
You always could and still can enable High Torque with Shifter Paddles on every wheel - thats not the issue Wynand means. However, the Torque message on the BME was never cleared with the shifter paddles - so thats what I meant with "it never worked" and what Wynand means. And thats not a new issue of the new drivers.
Ah i misread it, it's clearing the message on the BME.
I have the same issue. any fix?
Another update on the shifter EMI issues.
I purchased some ferrite core rings from Amazon which arrived today (pretty cheap actually $17 for 50 of various sizes). After attaching a 5mm core to either end of the longer rj12 shifter cable I am no longer experiences any issues with the shifter using that cable.
I don't know if it's related but I cleaned up the potentiometers on my CSL Elite (with Load Cell) and had to calibrate the pedals afterwards using the wheel (no option to calibrate in software). Unfortunately the calibration doesn't save properly, I have to re-calibrate every time I change wheel mode or turn off/on the wheel base.
What makes this extra annoying is the fact that I can't calibrate the pedals with my CSL McLaren GT3 V2 which I use most of the time because you can't press the up and down shift paddle simultaneously on that wheel, so I have to switch to a different wheel first to calibrate the pedals, then switch back to the McLaren wheel. And this has to be done every time I turn on the base or change the mode.
Can you check with your other wheel if its the same issue? How often does it happen and does it happen only in one game or also in others?
Thank you for the report and log files, I'll forward them.
Have you also tried if it works when the pedals are not plugged in via USB?