Any way to tell if CSL DD is actually in boost mode?
Peter Ford
Member
Other than the Boost logo showing up in the Fanatec Control Panel? If I have the gain in ACC set to anything other than 100% the FFB in game is very weak and the cars feel super light because of it, on some car and track combinations I could probably do a lap with my little finger on the wheel if I set the gain to 70% as recommended by Fanatec, surely that's not right.
Is there a possibility of the FBB getting weaker over time because sometimes I'm sure it gets weaker the longer I play ACC, maybe I'm imagining it though so not sure.
When I first got the wheelbase a few weeks ago the FFB felt very strong and I really had to man handle the car around slow corners but now it doesn't feel like that at all. I have the BMW GT2 V2 wheel and also the McLaren V2 wheel and they both feel the same (mounted with Clubsport Quick Release).
Currently using the forum recommended settings for the wheel base and the game other than having to have gain set to 100 instead of 70.
Comments
Did you do anything different from when you got your wheelbase and now when you notice the lack of FFB?
in the driver's page should be a boostkit logo on the bottom right corner if the boost kit is used.
Nope, not that I'm aware of.
Pretty sure I mentioned that in the first line of my OP.
I would try to reinstall the firmware to see if the problem persists.
At the same time contact support to see what they recommend.
Which driver version are you using?
yeah Im sorry, didn't read through your post properly. Maybe give the newest driver a try.
Sorry my post wasn't meant to seem blunt, I'd just woke up and just typed it in a matter of fact kind of way.
After driving a lot of different cars and tracks today in ACC I think the wheel base is fine, I think it's just the variation in Cars and tracks that makes the FFB seem weak sometimes. For example driving the Porsche around Zandvoort the FFB is strong, the car feels heavy and there is a lot of detail and fighting with the wheel but driving the McLaren 720 around Suzuka is very smooth, light and almost lifeless at times. So essentially any issue I have with the way something feels is almost certainly game related. My metal Clubsport QR sounds like a hammer drill when I press the test FFB button in the Fanatec Control Panel so I'm pretty sure everything is fine. After I pressed the FFB test button earlier my Wife actually came upstairs because she thought I was drilling holes in the wall lol
Hi Peter,
ACC has huge variations of FFB strenght between cars so this explains your completely different experience in various track-car combinations. However, driving even a 5Nm DD with a little finger is no way right. Since your last post suggests it feels OK then maybe the power cable was not secured properly at the back of the base. Or, if you are using FanaLab, I suggest you make sure if the FFB settings there does not apply 30% gain e.g. for ACC. You might set FFB in the driver or in the wheel to 100% but then FanaLab applies 30% - just an idea.
As for the quick release - I secured the fance srew as strongly as I could and taped my QR to the shaft with insulating tape to secure it from moving . The clanking sound was terrible, like there was lots of play. I know there has to be some but a DD might uncover it more then belt-driven bases. Not a great solution if you swap wheel rims often but at least it's properly silent. If it's stupid but it works then it's not stupid :)
Thanks for your reply, I don't have Fanalab so we can rule that out right away, I'll try to remember which car and track combo gave me the lightest FFB for reference. I have two wheels and I'm also desk mounted so I need to be able to detach my wheel fairly quickly when I've finished playing so I can put it away so I'll see if I can come up with some sort of solution for the rattling QR, I'll actually take a video when I get a minute so you can see if it's similar to yours because it would be nice to know if mine is excessive or 'normal'.
See video, FFB is definitely strong so must be game related, QR is very loud as I menetioned before.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NukOd3ZDlLQ&ab_channel=RippRacing
Videos tend to skew colors and sounds but if this is what it sounds like in reality then it's a little louder than mine.
With this angle I couldn't notice the screw that comes with QR but I guess you might not be using it to make the QR, well, a QR without screws needing tools. BTW: "As for the quick release - I secured the fance srew as strongly as ..." - 'fance srew' was supposed to be 'fancy screw', sorry about that. When I tightened my screw the rattle became a little better but still happened occasionally in game scenarios.
So I taped the QR (together with the screw) to the shaft at that made it totally silent.
In this post https://forum.fanatec.com/discussion/23691/csl-dd-cloncks-or-clicks people say they use electrical tape on the shaft to limit the play and it seems to work well even with changing wheels and they have confirmation from Fanatec this won't void warranty so it might be worth if you took a look there, if you haven't already.
As for your original question about detecting boost mode I thought I saw the answer in the manual but it looks like it's only the logo in control panel.
I thought there are 4 different options but there are only 2 but with different output.
Thanks for your detailed reply! It does indeed sound like the video, in fact I'd say the actual QR rattle sounds louder in real life and the wheel base vibration sounds a bit quieter in real life. I do take the wheel on and off a lot (i'm desk mounted so it gets put away when not in use). I have started using the screw now as well which does make it quieter but not totally silent so I'll see what I can do that will still allow the wheel to be removed quickly.