CSL DD cloncks or clicks

Hi,

I hear periodically “cloncks” from the CSL DD when shifting directions or under high speed corners.

Anybody else experience this?

https://streamable.com/s8ze3v?fbclid=IwAR1HUCyBCm4XwB7shb6ozryUgUoepeuUyQeLimtCutP4fJWkkfuPWMx2Pzg

I can feel this through the wheel and it does not feel great. I have raised a ticket with Fanatec.

Comments

  • Fanatec support suspects Simplified QR atm. May have to buy the upgraded one.

  • As mentioned in that other thread, and as Mats said:

    Ordering a additional QR1 fixed the problem.. at least for me

  • Damn it, I have the CSL DD with a McLaren V2 and I noticed a click too when suddenly changing diretions (it actually happens quite often). Tbh I don't really know how loud, cause I play in VR with closed headphones over, but I feel the click through the wheel. I don't really want to have to spend another 100 dollars (+shipping) for a QR1, what are my options ?

  • Michael DuranMichael Duran Member
    edited August 26

    I have identified the clicking source, it is the key-slot on the hub clicking against the sides of the groove in the output shaft of the CSL DD, the 8nm torque is great enough to cause the hub to shift left and right in the slot suddenly and "click" as it contacts the sides of the groove, you can prove this by holding on to the end of the hub at the shaft while turning, you will actually feel it move back and forth. I fear that this will eventually break the pins that connect the hub to the motor base. I cut a small 1/4" strip of heavy electrical tape and placed it in the groove of the shaft to take up the sloppy fit, and it actually made my clicking go away, the tape was strong enough to hold through wheel changes. this is a VERY temporary solution and the sloppy fit of the output shaft to the hub is something that I didn't expect from a company like FANATEC. I hope they address this issue without making the consumer pay for it with a costly replacement or upgrade.

  • Update with pictures.

    the little strip of heavy electrical tape takes up enough of the "sloppy fit" to stop the clicking and movement on the output shaft. if you look closely to the hub interior keyway, it is tapered on the sides allowing it to move in the more "squared off" channel in the shaft. the tape has stood up to hours of hard driving in rally and off road conditions, and survived many wheel changes,

    as you can see, I have 5 of the CSL-UH setups and two wheels with the QR1 aluminum, both systems still fit, and have no movement that I can detect now, I know this is a temporary fix, but for now it allows me to use the CSL DD at full 8Nm power without risking the pins in the hub. FANATEC has been notified, and wants a video of the issue.. by now a video is moot, the problem is painfully obvious. and I fear the "fix" will be expensive.

  • Michael DuranMichael Duran Member
    edited August 26

    Hopefully using tape in the groove will not violate or invalidate the warranty of the base or hubs, it is after all an issue with both systems, that only showed up when they were paired together after the release of the CSL DD, this never happened with my CS v2.5, or with the 5Nm power pack on the CSL DD, this is probably due to the slightly less torque, or maybe because the CSL DD is so much smoother and vibration free, that it is now noticeable at the 8Nm level.

    it's going to be interesting to see how this plays out..

  • I just ordered a QR1 for my McLaren GT3 V2, which I have been meaning to do anyway. I was going to wait until the QR2 is released but figured, what the heck. Let's get this done. lol


  • Is that what they have said? If so it's not really a good solution though is it? Ahh we messed up a little in production, but if you spend another £100 on this shiny part, it will sort it out...........hopefully :/

  • New QR quick release solved my problem. To bad you have to pay for it

  • Hi,

    I have also noticed I am having the same issue and tried the tape thing which worked for a while but it is now starting to do the same thing.

    Just wondering if it is worth opening a ticket with support?

    Does anyone have any further info on if fanatec are going to do anything to rectify the issue? I've already spent considerable money on the DD with boost kit, table clamp and McLaren wheel without having to buy a metal QR just because the tolerances in manufacturing are off!

    Thanks

  • After finding out the same. Mine appears to get getting worse.

  • edited November 7

    I am using some electrical tape to minimize the gap in the QR1 adapter. I found out that solution myself, but i see that this is used by many now. I have talked to support, even sent them pictures of the problem and the solution. They informed me that they will escalate the problem to the engineers , but what this will lead to is a mystery. They were quite grateful for the "temporary solution" but i hope they will be kind enough to replace / upgrade that QR system to all that own it. If there were even slight doubts that this can be a problem, i would go straight to the metal one....

  • Im brand new to Fanatec products and I have exactly the same issue with the WRC wheel. From what I have read here I did the same with a small amount of masking tape which as others said solved it. I have raised a ticket but no mention from them about the identical issues of others. They have said for me to RMA (not sure wheel, base or both) replied and just wait and see. I have suggested that they send me a new QR rather than me send stuff back and render me unable to use my wheel I waited so long for!

  • Well Fanatec agreed without issue to inspect both base and wheel but in the meantime I did further testing to be 100% sure before going through the step of returning everything as my free time is limited and tbh wasn't keen on doing anyway. I got chance to use the wheel after work yesterday without the slither of tape and after 2-3hrs there was no issue. I used multiple sims and tracks but could not replicate it! I can only think that it may have either been a particular FFB setting which highlighted the issue which I have since tweaked unknowingly or I actually failed to fit the wheel correctly 🤦‍♂️ either way I'm going to hold off with the return for now and just see how it goes. I may be new to Fanatec products but been sim racing for a few years on various types of wheel bases and there was definitely some level of play between the base and QR as described in this post... fingers crossed it was just my mistake.

  • TL:DR: my QR was replaced via RMA and that fixed the issue for me.


    I wanted to share my experience, in the hopes that it'll help others. I was also having the same issue, which was intermittent at first, so I thought I was imagining it. But the click kept getting more frequent. So thank you Mats and Michael, your comments really helped.


    I am new to Fanatec, with a CSL DD and McLaren GT3 rim, and the 8nm boost kit. After contacting customer support, and initially being told that a bit of noise is to be expected at high torque rates, they eventually agreed to an RMA. There was no detailed diagnosis, but the Simplified QR was replaced, and this has fixed the issue for me. I never tried the tape trick as I didn't have tape of the appropriate thickness on hand.

    There is definitely a difference in how the QR closes around the shaft. I have been extremely careful not to overtighten the QR, and only going past the white line by about a mm on the first QR. After getting the RMA number, as an experiment I tried but couldn't close the QR all the way to the stop, and even then I was still getting the click, but less frequently. The new QR hits the stop right after covering up the white line, and I have not felt the click even after about 3 hrs of driving.

    A bit dissapointed that this was an issue, but they resolved it for me, so I'm happy overall.

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