In rFactor 2 when I restart race after crashing FFB gets numb in the middle, not sure how to explain it, wheel try to go left or right randomly on the straight.
Used driver: 435
Hardware: Podium DD1 + Formula V2.5x
Used fanalab settings:
[Tuning Menu]
SEN Auto
FF 75%
FFS LINEAR
NDP 23%
NFR 9%
NIN 15%
INT 1
FEI 80
FDR 100%
SPR 100%
DPR 100%
BLI OFF
SHO ON
MPS AUTO
[Dynamic FFB]
Speed Sensitivite Disabled
Driving Reverse Enabled
Damper Effect Strength 75
Fade-in Intensity 5
[Vibration - Steering Wheel]
Rev Limiter Vibration Enabled
Vibration Strength 10
Threshold 93,43%
Used in-game settings:
100% car specific multplier
1x Smoothing
Track: Spa
Car: McLaren MP4/13 Shadow
How to reproduce the issue: Drive, crash into a wall, Exit to Monitor and restart session. After 2 restarts it's very noticable.
If I disabled NFR issue stopped happening.
Additionally while I used driver 415, FFB in rFactor felt a lot better, it was more sticky, you could feel tire grip through FFB, but it's very subjective.
On the other hand driver 435 feels a lot better in F1 2021 than driver 415.
We think its related to NFR and I have a test export with a potential fix, let me know if it works for you.
For my part, with the new driver 435 and my csl DD, the driver works.
I noticed more softness and flexibility in force feedback as well as for the road effects and more consistency in the steering on Assetto Corsa
On the other hand, for the steering wheel rotation stop, it's not great, I don't think I have one.
So I use the Soft Lock but it gives a sudden stop that makes the steering wheel bounce.
It would be great if you could try to work on that.
Bests regards.
The end stop not being there in AC is a game issue, they never implemented a good soft lock which is why they didn't put the option into the game settings. They could have used our soft lock by using the SEN AUTO function, but they didn't.
Randomly occurs on impact effects or curb in all games
When the force feedback test is executed from the FFB intensity of 51% or more in the fanatec software, it is tested with a sudden jolts. It is a jolts similar to this.
If the FFB strength is less than 50%, it is very soft in the force feedback test.
Just 1% difference causes sharp jols and rattles.
I think there is definitely a problem with this.
Fanatec recommends that you try the force feed back test at FFB strength of 51% or higher based on dd2.
And it is thought that there is a problem in being a force feedback test with such a sudden change with only 1% difference
Thanks, when doing so, are you on the default P DD screen with Fanatec logo or on an ITM or analysis screen?
Driver 435 - all firmware updated: everything working well except small issue with ITM on BME
The ITM screen on BME does not show current speed unless you manually switch ITM screens in-game on track, then it starts displaying. Everything else seems to display correctly, but the current speed is just blank unless you switch screens in-game. This happens with all games (ACC, AMS2, rF2). Thanks.
Which wheel base do you have and which FanaLab version?
Did this issue come with a firmware update or FanaLab update? For example if you go back either with firmware of FanaLab, does it get solved and if yes with which?
No, I don't use the torque with the P1 wheel, wouldn't work anyway.
With firmware 687 it could already happen while just sitting in the fanatec control panel.
With firmware 691 while in control panel it seems ok. But it can be forced by starting and exiting the steam client a couple of times, base will freeze reliably with a P1 wheel attached, won't freeze with a McL wheel attached. When driving with a P1 wheel the base survives a lap or two, then it dies. With the McL wheel I can drive for hours no matter which base firmware.
Mode is PC only.
Forget the driver not responding message, that was due to Windows 7 on my notebook. Redid all the testing on a brand new 21H2 install of Win10.
I attached the logs from the new WIN10 installation anyway.
One more thing: When I restart the unresponsive base by pulling the power plug while the P1 wheel is attached, I alwas have to confirm the "enable torque" notice, as if the wheel was removed and reattached.
@Maurice: Did all that again with a clean WIN10 21H2 installation on a separate partition. Non of the trouble happens with base firmware 691 and a McL wheel and it neither happens with base firmware 675 and a P1 or a McL wheel.
Hm, I think the message is always shown when booting and is no indication for the issue.
I've tried two bases and two p1 wheels and had them on for several hours but they still worked fine after that. Also because no one else seem to have reported it so far I think this might be a hardware related issue and you should contact support by opening a ticket on the my products page in the shop when being logged in.
I have been watching the Beta Threads for a while now. I personally have not experienced the Jolts that other people are experiencing. I run a DD1 currently on the last released version of the driver/Firmware. I do not run high levels of FFb. Some things that appear to be common with people getting jolts is both 1) running High FFb and 2) some sort of big transient like hitting a curb or crashing into a wall. All the replies from Fanatec about what they are doing to investigate seem to be related to the software - ie Driver or Firmware. I am wondering if anyone there has taken any time to look into possible Hardware issues ? Specifically - has anyone taken the time to look at the transient response of the power supply during one of these transients ? Some power supplies are good at producing a steady output voltage as long as the load is fairly constant but have horrible Undershoot and then Overshoot when they are hit with a large transient load. These sorts of transients could be very short - from tens of microseconds to a few milliseconds but the magnitude of the voltage spike could be high enough to feed into the control circuitry. Hitting a wall would produce a big transient load especially if the user tries to hold onto the wheel during the crash. Curbs would be lower but still significant since the user is more likely to be holding onto the wheel fighting the transient.
One more thing - Although Fanatec mentions the plug-in sequence in their "Warnings" page a lot of users don't bother to read that far or read the manual at all. Plugging the Power Brick into the wall before Plugging the Power connector into the back of the wheelbase or Unplugging the Power connector at the back of the wheelbase and then reconnecting it without unplugging the Power Brick from the wall and letting it discharge is really bad for the wheelbase. You can get electrical arcing and huge voltage spikes at the connector due to the initial current surge. I have to say that the Power Plug on the back of the wheel base is one of the weakest points of the DD1,2 and probably accounts for a good portion of the weird failure modes that people see. Some early Laptop computers experienced high failure rates for this exact same reason.
Thanks, mostly the jolts seem to be related to the load on the chip and communication inside the base which is why we are re-building the firmware in this regard. With changes on the display and other things there seem to be random, very short hickups in the FFB communication and calculation which is why it helps most people to stay on the standard page. I agree that it is mostly noticible with very high FFB settings because it maxes out the FFB for ~1ms for no reason and then goes back to what it should perform at the moment.
We've now also had the case internally while testing, the message seems to come more rare now but it can still happen. We are investigating for another fix.
I also got the exceeded max rotations notification yesterday. Fanatec you really need to help me out. I post a serveral discussions about this and nobody response.
I’ve got the high end product and i am not enjoying it at all. The only thing i am doing at the moment is praying if it won’t happen in a race.
My patience is running out.
So help me out.
But we did response to many of such posts and we also tried to fix it in the last firmware, however it only seemed to have improved it slightly and did not fix it completely. because of that we are now again investigating and working on the next fix. If the message comes too often, you can go back to driver 415 where the message wasn't implemented yet.
Sorry for the inconvinience and that it can appear that nobody responses.
Endurance Button Module is going into the set up while driving (Iracing) and without pushing the button. All the FFB goes away when this happens. Other times the buttons will not work randomly or the display will switch modes and revert back to just showing speed rather than the lap times page.
CSL Elite PS4
ClubSport universal hub
EBM
V3 Pedals
SQ V1.5 Shifter
Sounds like a hardware issue as if the wheel looses connection to the base, I would suggest to contact support.
I have a DD1 with a McLaren V2 wheel and have stayed away from this update per the issues stated above about version 44 of the wheel. However, I saw it stated that this update has "Several fixes/adjustments for Clutch Bite Point mode" and since I have an upcoming IRacing Porsche Pcup race with standing start next week it has me wondering if I should try and download this update for the base. Would I need to update the wheel for these changes to take effect or could I still get this from just updating base and staying on V43 of wheel?
The new driver 436 I've posted here and on the first page a couple of minutes ago has a new McLaren V2 firmware to solve the issue.
Regarding this known issue: "Natural Friction (NFR) can create a weird FFB sensation and not smooth feeling after some time, we suggest to set NFR to OFF in case you experience this issue."
In rFactor 2 wheel can be turn smoothly for a while but sooner or later an occasion when I go from menu to drive, it becomes a bit "crispy". Like a worn ball bearing growling noise, it can be heard and can be felt during turning the wheel. rFactor and wheel base restart solve it for a while, but later comes it again. Last time I set NFR off, but described phenomenon came again, but some time later, than earlier when I used NFR=3. However, this problem is not exist in F1 2021 for example.
I am not sure that quote above is about the same I described. I experienced it with 429 and 434 driver and connecting firmware as well.
Now I use 434 PC driver, WB: 1.1.3.2, WBM: 1.0.2.2, SW: 43, W QR: 6.0.0.1 and Fanalab v1.61.3 version and base in PC mode.
I remember that the rFactor 2 FFB can get very noisy the more you go back to pits and on track over and over again, even when not really driving. If this is still the case I need to contact them again, I only know this behavior from rFactor 2
Upgraded to 434 driver and 1.63.1 Fanalab and Just randomly APM paddles stop responding. Butons on BME works but paddles don't. After restarting DD2 they work again but then there is no any FFB on DD2 and need to restart game to get FFB again. Happening on ACC and on iRacing. Downgraded to 429 driver and 1.60.2 Fanalab but happen again.
DD2
PODIUM STEERING WHEEL PORSCHE 911 GT3 R
this is error from log file
** FW-FFB Error tracing for E:\Steam\steamapps\common\Assetto Corsa Competizione\AC2\Binaries\Win64\AC2-Win64-Shipping.exe **
The no FFB thing is normal in ACC when you restart the base or start the base after the game. Instead of re-starting the game you can also go into the controls menu and hit the refresh button, then it should work again.
However the not working shifters indeed sound like a hardware problem of the hub your shifter is connected to. I would suggest to check the cables and if nothing is obvious, contact support like Maurice suggested.
Did some racing with the McL wheel and Podium base firmware 691 tonight. No obvious problems.
Switched to the P1 wheel with the base still powered on but USB-cable unplugged because the new driver has the annoying habit to recenter the wheel as if a constant spring force is applied, as soon as the base is connected to the PC, which makes mounting the lock screw somewhat difficult. The recentering doesn't happen when the USB-cable is unplugged.
Long story short: Switching from the McL wheel to the P1 wheel with the base powered on but not even connected to the PC causes the base to freeze the moment you attach the P1 wheel. Base won't even show up in the fanatec control panel after plugging in the USB-cable again.
P1 wheel is the first one which had the snapdome shifters in case it matters.
Might help to trace the problem.
I gave this a try as well and can't reproduce the issue, like suggested earlier, please contact support.
I have a Podium DD wheel for Ps4/ps5... Last driver updated... PS5 updated, game updated.
After pitting, or sometimes pausing the game, or going back to the lobby, or going in a session from qualy to race.. My wheel and base loss at least 50% off all my force feedback configuration, leaving my wheel almost with no feelings of track, car and etc... Tried to reset the configs, wheel and gt sport... But it is happening all the way. In online competitions it is causing me a lot of problems... Cause im losing feedback in online championship lobs, and this is hugely broking my racing pace...
Is there any config in the wheel that is making it happen!?? Or in the game???.... Some of the wheel settings that needs to be at the same level as the game???
Im really sad about this... Losing a lot of races cause of it...
Come on Fanatec... Help me...
Did the issue came with a specific driver?
Does it help to go back to the driver which did not have the issue?
What exactly do you mean with it looses 50% of FFB configuration. do the actual settings change or does it just get weaker?
Which steering wheel do you have?
Have you noticed if the display shows low torque or high torque when the issue happens?
Thanks Maurice. Yeah in Fanatec UI it gives me 440 L and R .
The thing is that it has physically exactly 900° but to prevent damage on the physical end stop there was an electric end stop added slightly before that which is why you can't (at least not as easily) turn to the full 450° on each side.
My setup is dd2 and it is [SEN] 1080 [FFB] 40~80 [FFS] Linear [NDP] 10~25 [NFR] 0~2 [NIN] 0~3 [INT] 4 [FEI] 100
The total gain in the game is 50-70%
This also happens with fanatec default settings. Only [FFB] is different
This phenomenon is more than the fanatec default setting [SEN] AUTO [FFB] 51 or higher.
[NDP] 50 [NFR] OFF [NIN] OFF [INT] 6 [FEI] 100 also occurs in
This phenomenon occurs when [FFB] 51 or higher, regardless of LINEAR or PEAK.
If it occurs above a certain torque, it should occur at a lower [FFB] at PEAK, but it occurs when [FFB] 51 or higher in the same way as LINEAR and PEAK.
I remember that the rFactor 2 FFB can get very noisy the more you go back to pits and on track over and over again, even when not really driving. If this is still the case I need to contact them again, I only know this behavior from rFactor 2
Exactly, it happens more often during practice session, when I go to setup and track again and again. And an occasion when I go to track from setup, it comes.
Does it help to go back to the driver which did not have the issue?
What exactly do you mean with it looses 50% of FFB configuration. do the actual settings change or does it just get weaker?
Which steering wheel do you have?
Have you noticed if the display shows low torque or high torque when the issue happens?
Hi marcel!! Thank you so much for the help!! I appreciate that someone of the Fanatec team are trying to help.
1- I´m using the last compelte driver, 434 think, from the fanatec website.
2- This is the unique driver I install, since I have bought it in November, and installed it in December.
3- Settings stays the same, nothing happens to the settings. What I tried to mean in that the wheel get weaker, a lot weaker, from my actual FFB configuration.
4- I have Fanatec Podium DD bundle for Ps4/Ps5 - With the actual wheel, the F1 wheel.
5- That I remember, it always shows me low torque.
Yesterday night, as I related here... I changed my base from the mode "PS4/PS5" to "COMP PS4", but I only played for 30 minutes, doing stuff in online lobby, that normally would give the problem that makes the wheel/base to get a weak sense of my FFB configuration. Today, im going to play a lot more, and in the weekend too, so Ill post here what happens, If changing the mode to "COMP PS4" will help me to kill this problem.
Please, be here to help us, and get the notice if changing the mode works for me.
2- Should I keep NFR=0 on driver 434 to prevent this issue?
Thanks!
yes. Avoid NFR as there is no testexport Firmware available for it yet, only for Podium DD there was this testexport Firmware released today which should fix the NFR issues. Once the fixes are confirmed by the community the same fixes will be made available for CSL DD as soon as possible.
The end stop not being there in AC is a game issue, they never implemented a good soft lock which is why they didn't put the option into the game settings. They could have used our soft lock by using the SEN AUTO function, but they didn't.
OK, I understand better, thank you for your answer.
yes. Avoid NFR as there is no testexport Firmware available for it yet, only for Podium DD there was this testexport Firmware released today which should fix the NFR issues. Once the fixes are confirmed by the community the same fixes will be made available for CSL DD as soon as possible.
also yes.
Ok thanks,
I'll stick to 434 with NFR=0 until the fix is out for CSL DD
Yes, exactly that. Its jolts which come out of nowhere for no reason and is basically a big FFB spike for around 1ms with full strength.
And no, they dont hurt the base.
I would not be so sure about that. It is a force that acts on one side of the axle and can therefore damage the bearings. Like a glow ignition in the combustion engine that damages the connecting rod bearings and then it still runs, but rattles.
I've had these "jolts" from the start on my DD1 and they accompany me in all games, AC, ACC, DR, DR 2.0, rFactor 2, Race Room Racing Experience, Automobilista 2, WRC 10, regardless of FFB strength they sometimes appear and that with the standard Fanatec logo on the screen. So it's not a fix for me.
I'm really curious if I can get a new base if the bearings are damaged!?
Comments
We think its related to NFR and I have a test export with a potential fix, let me know if it works for you.
The end stop not being there in AC is a game issue, they never implemented a good soft lock which is why they didn't put the option into the game settings. They could have used our soft lock by using the SEN AUTO function, but they didn't.
Thanks, when doing so, are you on the default P DD screen with Fanatec logo or on an ITM or analysis screen?
Which wheel base do you have and which FanaLab version?
Did this issue come with a firmware update or FanaLab update? For example if you go back either with firmware of FanaLab, does it get solved and if yes with which?
Hm, I think the message is always shown when booting and is no indication for the issue.
I've tried two bases and two p1 wheels and had them on for several hours but they still worked fine after that. Also because no one else seem to have reported it so far I think this might be a hardware related issue and you should contact support by opening a ticket on the my products page in the shop when being logged in.
Thanks, mostly the jolts seem to be related to the load on the chip and communication inside the base which is why we are re-building the firmware in this regard. With changes on the display and other things there seem to be random, very short hickups in the FFB communication and calculation which is why it helps most people to stay on the standard page. I agree that it is mostly noticible with very high FFB settings because it maxes out the FFB for ~1ms for no reason and then goes back to what it should perform at the moment.
We've now also had the case internally while testing, the message seems to come more rare now but it can still happen. We are investigating for another fix.
But we did response to many of such posts and we also tried to fix it in the last firmware, however it only seemed to have improved it slightly and did not fix it completely. because of that we are now again investigating and working on the next fix. If the message comes too often, you can go back to driver 415 where the message wasn't implemented yet.
Sorry for the inconvinience and that it can appear that nobody responses.
Sounds like a hardware issue as if the wheel looses connection to the base, I would suggest to contact support.
Do you use the new damper feature of ACC?
When it happens next time, can you turn DPR off to see if its gone?
Does it fixes itself when you stand still and start driving again?
The new driver 436 I've posted here and on the first page a couple of minutes ago has a new McLaren V2 firmware to solve the issue.
Hi MArcel,
Is new firmware expected to solve the wheel keeps turning after pause issue?
I remember that the rFactor 2 FFB can get very noisy the more you go back to pits and on track over and over again, even when not really driving. If this is still the case I need to contact them again, I only know this behavior from rFactor 2
The no FFB thing is normal in ACC when you restart the base or start the base after the game. Instead of re-starting the game you can also go into the controls menu and hit the refresh button, then it should work again.
However the not working shifters indeed sound like a hardware problem of the hub your shifter is connected to. I would suggest to check the cables and if nothing is obvious, contact support like Maurice suggested.
I gave this a try as well and can't reproduce the issue, like suggested earlier, please contact support.
Did the issue came with a specific driver?
Does it help to go back to the driver which did not have the issue?
What exactly do you mean with it looses 50% of FFB configuration. do the actual settings change or does it just get weaker?
Which steering wheel do you have?
Have you noticed if the display shows low torque or high torque when the issue happens?
The thing is that it has physically exactly 900° but to prevent damage on the physical end stop there was an electric end stop added slightly before that which is why you can't (at least not as easily) turn to the full 450° on each side.
which pedals?
sadly not, if it did I would have written it in the change log
thank you for your enthusiasm
But I'm asking again what I wrote
I listed all the settings and you said you would do a 50%/51% ffb test comparison
I used a screen with the fanatec logo
This happens randomly in game when you step on a collision effect or curb.
This is similar to the shock that occurs at the [FFB] intensity of 51% or more in the fanatec software force feedback test.
[FFB] If the strength is less than 50%, the test is very smooth.
This happens regardless of PEAK or LINEAR
Just 1% difference causes sharp jols and rattles. I think there is definitely a problem with this.
I am using dd2 and using Torque Key
I believe in fanatec. I ordered the v3 pedals, damper kit and SQ1.5 shifter yesterday....
Exactly, it happens more often during practice session, when I go to setup and track again and again. And an occasion when I go to track from setup, it comes.
Hi marcel!! answered above.
Hi marcel!! Thank you so much for the help!! I appreciate that someone of the Fanatec team are trying to help.
1- I´m using the last compelte driver, 434 think, from the fanatec website.
2- This is the unique driver I install, since I have bought it in November, and installed it in December.
3- Settings stays the same, nothing happens to the settings. What I tried to mean in that the wheel get weaker, a lot weaker, from my actual FFB configuration.
4- I have Fanatec Podium DD bundle for Ps4/Ps5 - With the actual wheel, the F1 wheel.
5- That I remember, it always shows me low torque.
Yesterday night, as I related here... I changed my base from the mode "PS4/PS5" to "COMP PS4", but I only played for 30 minutes, doing stuff in online lobby, that normally would give the problem that makes the wheel/base to get a weak sense of my FFB configuration. Today, im going to play a lot more, and in the weekend too, so Ill post here what happens, If changing the mode to "COMP PS4" will help me to kill this problem.
Please, be here to help us, and get the notice if changing the mode works for me.
See you, and thanks again.
Hi!
My Wheel: CSL DD 8NM
My Driver: 434
Haven't update to driver 435/436 yet because the weird NFR FFB feeling comments.
Some quick questions about that:
1- Is CSL DD affected by this? Test firmware looks like is for Podiumt bases right (PDD_EBLDC_NFR_Testexport2.zip)?
2- Should I keep NFR=0 on driver 434 to prevent this issue?
Thanks!
OK, I understand better, thank you for your answer.
Ok thanks,
I'll stick to 434 with NFR=0 until the fix is out for CSL DD
Hi. I Just need a bit of clarification here. Just went got my DD2 happy for it no doubdt. but.
are we speaking of these physical like a "hammer" klongs ? can they hurt the base?
Yes, exactly that. Its jolts which come out of nowhere for no reason and is basically a big FFB spike for around 1ms with full strength.
And no, they dont hurt the base.
I would not be so sure about that. It is a force that acts on one side of the axle and can therefore damage the bearings. Like a glow ignition in the combustion engine that damages the connecting rod bearings and then it still runs, but rattles.
I've had these "jolts" from the start on my DD1 and they accompany me in all games, AC, ACC, DR, DR 2.0, rFactor 2, Race Room Racing Experience, Automobilista 2, WRC 10, regardless of FFB strength they sometimes appear and that with the standard Fanatec logo on the screen. So it's not a fix for me.
I'm really curious if I can get a new base if the bearings are damaged!?