And if it's within warranty I think you would get it repaired or exchanged if something is wrong with the base. Cant say for sure as I am not an official but that's just my best guess, Yeah. But I dont see the Jolts can cause any kind of real hardware issue as the base is designed to sustain Peak forces of 20 respectively 25Nm and the Jolts are not stronger than any FFB spike you could ever get when running FFB 100 and they only happen for around 1ms so a 100% FFB run over a longer time than 1ms would hurt the base more by your theory...
I feel rightly exposed here now, I responded to their answer with the question of the camps and they didn't respond to that but edited their first answer to now make me look stupid. I can't edit mine, just send a new one.
This never happened before and I believe I installed every beta. Manually update the wheelbase firmware, still hangs at the end btw., connect an R300 wheel to perform the wheel calibration and the wheel torques to the left. I tried manually updating the Formula v2 wheel like 10 times but that was futile, the wheel starts vibrating and the thing hangs. Have to kill setup with task manager and power cycle the DD2. If you reopen Fanatec Control Panel while the DD2 is in this state it shows no devices found. A few days ago I reported that the torque to one side when you crash stopped. Well that's back. Just crashed running a Rally in Monoro and had to use two hands to keep the wheel from spinning it finally released when the flag dropped on a new rally. Didn't happen at all with 435.
All edits for my post were done by 11:36PM, your answer came 11:39PM.
So you were not exposed to look stupid at all as all edits were done before your next answer in which you also quoted the answer so you knew the full message before you answered...
Also you could still have edited both your first original message as well as your answer as you can edit messages for 60 minutes and your first original message came 11:19PM, your complain message came 12:10AM so you would had still 9 minutes left to even edit your very first message.
Quick question, will the rpm LED's on the CSL Elite PS4 base be fixed in any upcoming beta release, or was it sorted when the last stable was released?
There is only a Fanalab related issue that Base LEDs dont work when a Wheel without LEDs is attached. That however wont be fixed via driver but with a new Fanalab version sometime relatively soon.
Hi guys. I am running Driver 432 with a CSW 2.5 and a F1 wheel. Every time I go into the UI I have to reset the Map Sequential To Paddles as it always turns off. I had a bit of a search but didn't find an answer. Is this normal? Has it been fixed in 434,435 or 436? Thanks
Hello!!. I have tested the new engine carefully. The tests have been to do 10 laps in ACC testing the v41 engine. V42. And this last one. And with this last one I can guarantee that I have the famous random shakes even having "FANATEC" on the telemetry screen, I also verify that they are much more frequent with the motor calibration. This does not happen with v41 and v42 engine. This might help a bit with the famous jerking issue and I don't know if anyone else is experiencing the same thing. I've gone back to V42 with the "FANATEC" symbol on the screen and no jerk.
A mate of mine has the same set up as I do, CSW 2.5 + CSL Elite LC Pedals. He is, as I am, using Driver 436. He has manual mode set for setting the pedals, but it doesn't seem to remember the settings for the Brake. No matter what he sets it on, it always seems to revert back to 60. Any ideas? Mine always stays where I leave it. Thanks again for your time.
Podium wheel base jolts can happen on ITM or analysis screens of the wheel base display. A workaround is to use the default screen with “Fanatec” logo while driving. We are still working on a fix which needs an extensive re-write of the P DD firmware which is why it takes so long.
Come on Maurice, it's been over two years. It took three years just to invert shifter2 when F1 wheel was connected. I wonder how many years it will take to fix the jolts if it needs so much work to rewrite it. Also Marcel said he will ask and tell ETA for the fix. Did i miss anything?
I just very recently updated my dd1 to the 435 version.
2 things seem (feel) very wrong.
Firstly - I play multiple sims, and on a lot of them, i keep the AUTO setting usually. Rfactor2 now seems to change the AUTO for every setup, every sim, even in the fanatec drivers, and persists it somewhere.
Example - taking the ferrari 488 gt3 will set the cars wheel to behave 1:1 to your wheel with the auto setting, fine.
Problem is, this will persist into other fanatec "auto" settings for other setups as well.
Switching to the Clio in rFactor2 will change the auto setting again, meaning whatever was 90 degrees, will be 110 degrees now. So the rFactor2 setting will overwrite the fanatec setting completely, and persist.
Only way for me to return it to normal is to reinstall the firmware.
Secondly - Whats the point of "Setup 1"? Something is bugged here, or not explained.
If i customize my "Setup 1", click on "Standard Mode"/"Auto setup", it will completely reset my customization on "Setup 1" to factory default/driver default.
I have the same issue with ACC - when using Auto sensitivity it’s not always setting the same sensitivity. One time Auto setting sets it to match steering wheel the other time it’s like 2x more sensitive
Comments
Which bearings?
And if it's within warranty I think you would get it repaired or exchanged if something is wrong with the base. Cant say for sure as I am not an official but that's just my best guess, Yeah. But I dont see the Jolts can cause any kind of real hardware issue as the base is designed to sustain Peak forces of 20 respectively 25Nm and the Jolts are not stronger than any FFB spike you could ever get when running FFB 100 and they only happen for around 1ms so a 100% FFB run over a longer time than 1ms would hurt the base more by your theory...
The OUTRUNNER MOTOR has a shaft on which the steering wheel is then mounted. Does this not have a bearing?
I feel rightly exposed here now, I responded to their answer with the question of the camps and they didn't respond to that but edited their first answer to now make me look stupid. I can't edit mine, just send a new one.
This never happened before and I believe I installed every beta. Manually update the wheelbase firmware, still hangs at the end btw., connect an R300 wheel to perform the wheel calibration and the wheel torques to the left. I tried manually updating the Formula v2 wheel like 10 times but that was futile, the wheel starts vibrating and the thing hangs. Have to kill setup with task manager and power cycle the DD2. If you reopen Fanatec Control Panel while the DD2 is in this state it shows no devices found. A few days ago I reported that the torque to one side when you crash stopped. Well that's back. Just crashed running a Rally in Monoro and had to use two hands to keep the wheel from spinning it finally released when the flag dropped on a new rally. Didn't happen at all with 435.
DD2 all the latest firmware manually updated
R300 Podium
Windows 10 21H2 all the latest patches.
Jim Nasium
its a bit more complicated...
All edits for my post were done by 11:36PM, your answer came 11:39PM.
So you were not exposed to look stupid at all as all edits were done before your next answer in which you also quoted the answer so you knew the full message before you answered...
Also you could still have edited both your first original message as well as your answer as you can edit messages for 60 minutes and your first original message came 11:19PM, your complain message came 12:10AM so you would had still 9 minutes left to even edit your very first message.
Quick question, will the rpm LED's on the CSL Elite PS4 base be fixed in any upcoming beta release, or was it sorted when the last stable was released?
What do you mean?
On driver side there is no issue with Base LEDs.
There is only a Fanalab related issue that Base LEDs dont work when a Wheel without LEDs is attached. That however wont be fixed via driver but with a new Fanalab version sometime relatively soon.
Apologies Maurice, as soon as I read that I remembered you mentioned that before. i'll/can you(?)
delete and move it to Fanalabs thread.
So when we'll be able to use the (pc mode) instead of the suggested (comp mode) without any issues?
when the game developers have updated their games. Some games are EOL so for those you will always have to use Comp Mode.
Hi guys. I am running Driver 432 with a CSW 2.5 and a F1 wheel. Every time I go into the UI I have to reset the Map Sequential To Paddles as it always turns off. I had a bit of a search but didn't find an answer. Is this normal? Has it been fixed in 434,435 or 436? Thanks
Yes its fixed in 436.
Also 432 was always a not good driver as it was replaced by 434 so you shouldnt use 432 anyway...
Maurice Böschen is there somewhere any list of all racing games which supports (pc mode) or (comp mode)?
I'm having the same issue, but my CSL P LCK are connected via base.
I must re-calibrate/set min/max values and BRF every time I power on the base.
The issue is present on both drivers and firmwares from:
Driver 434 & 435
CSL DD Base: 1.1.3.2 & 1.1.4.5
Motor: 1.0.2.2
CSW Formula v2.5: 43 & 44
CSL P LCK: 1.6
yes I confirm ... the ffb problem in rf2 persists as you described
I also lose all dampning effects in rf2 after I go back to pits. Only a restart of the game fix it
Hello!!. I have tested the new engine carefully. The tests have been to do 10 laps in ACC testing the v41 engine. V42. And this last one. And with this last one I can guarantee that I have the famous random shakes even having "FANATEC" on the telemetry screen, I also verify that they are much more frequent with the motor calibration. This does not happen with v41 and v42 engine. This might help a bit with the famous jerking issue and I don't know if anyone else is experiencing the same thing. I've gone back to V42 with the "FANATEC" symbol on the screen and no jerk.
dd1 ps4
V3
porsche gt3r
V435 Controller
My configuration in Fanalab:
Sen. Auto
ffb. 60
ffs. Peak
Ndp. 15
nfr. Off
nin. Off
INT 2
Fei. 100
For. 100
Spr. Off
Dor. Off
Bli. 100
Sho. On
In case it helps. Greetings!!!
NFR issue was fixed in rFactor 2 and F1 2021 with this test motor firmware, but there’s new issue: there’s small clank/jolt happening now
A mate of mine has the same set up as I do, CSW 2.5 + CSL Elite LC Pedals. He is, as I am, using Driver 436. He has manual mode set for setting the pedals, but it doesn't seem to remember the settings for the Brake. No matter what he sets it on, it always seems to revert back to 60. Any ideas? Mine always stays where I leave it. Thanks again for your time.
Yeah something regarding BRF is wrong in the current driver and firmware, a lot of people have that issue. Pretty sure its being investigated soon.
Podium wheel base jolts can happen on ITM or analysis screens of the wheel base display. A workaround is to use the default screen with “Fanatec” logo while driving. We are still working on a fix which needs an extensive re-write of the P DD firmware which is why it takes so long.
Will this ever be sorted!
You are even quoting the answer to your question.
"We are still working on a fix which needs an extensive re-write of the P DD firmware which is why it takes so long."
Come on Maurice, it's been over two years. It took three years just to invert shifter2 when F1 wheel was connected. I wonder how many years it will take to fix the jolts if it needs so much work to rewrite it. Also Marcel said he will ask and tell ETA for the fix. Did i miss anything?
No, you didnt missed anything.
All correct and yes it's annoying but it's being worked on.
I just very recently updated my dd1 to the 435 version.
2 things seem (feel) very wrong.
Firstly - I play multiple sims, and on a lot of them, i keep the AUTO setting usually. Rfactor2 now seems to change the AUTO for every setup, every sim, even in the fanatec drivers, and persists it somewhere.
Example - taking the ferrari 488 gt3 will set the cars wheel to behave 1:1 to your wheel with the auto setting, fine.
Problem is, this will persist into other fanatec "auto" settings for other setups as well.
Switching to the Clio in rFactor2 will change the auto setting again, meaning whatever was 90 degrees, will be 110 degrees now. So the rFactor2 setting will overwrite the fanatec setting completely, and persist.
Only way for me to return it to normal is to reinstall the firmware.
Secondly - Whats the point of "Setup 1"? Something is bugged here, or not explained.
If i customize my "Setup 1", click on "Standard Mode"/"Auto setup", it will completely reset my customization on "Setup 1" to factory default/driver default.
Note: This only happens on "Setup 1" for me.
Not sure if mentioned already but quick search says no.......
Don't recall which version broke CSP v2's but in 436 they don't work again.
All pedals translate to handbrake.
CSP's connected by USB
Thirdly (added to my previous comment, since i cannot edit it) - i noticed that in iRacing, i have to tune the exact wheel steering angle, to the car.
I used to keep it on "AUTO", id set the 900 degree angle in game for gt3 cars, 1080 for the mazda and it would be 1:1 to my wheel.
Right now, its set to "AUTO", and i see it in game configuring to 1080 degree in every car.
Am i misunderstanding something or?
Same at my dd1 and it also happened in pc3
I have the same issue with ACC - when using Auto sensitivity it’s not always setting the same sensitivity. One time Auto setting sets it to match steering wheel the other time it’s like 2x more sensitive