I think you've moved it from Auto Setup to Standard setup - you need Advanced setup to unlock all the options -
"Important Changes:
New Tuning Menu "Standard Mode" is the default mode for all bases:
In Standard Mode only essential settings are available.
Standard Mode features only one custom setup. Advanced Mode features the usual 5 custom setups.
In Standard Mode the range of available settings is slightly reduced to keep them within reasonable boundaries.
Users can switch to "Advanced Mode" to unlock all settings via the driver UI or by holding the Tuning button for 3 seconds while being in the Tuning Menu.
New "Auto Setup" which is the factory default for P DD, CSL DD, GT DDPRO, CSW V2.5, CSL E WB PS4:
Settings in Auto Setup can only be changed by the game, for example to push recommended settings.
While in Auto Setup the user can only view the settings, but not change them.
If the settings aren't set by the game, the factory default will be used.
To customise settings the user can choose one of the custom setups.
I just received my GT DD Pro. The recommended settings by Fanatec are excellent. However, if your main goal is to go as fast and consistent as possible, change to 1/1 in-game. 5/1 is too heavy, clips, and you can't steer and correct quick enough, especially with high grip and high downforce cars.
If you're in it for the "immersion/realism" instead of going fast, do whatever makes you happy...
Thanks for a beautiful product. I read all about everything that people complain about and wasn't affected by any of it. It's just perfect. Even the processing/shipping was super quick.
Or, you could use 5/1 in-game but lower FF. The rumble sensations are slightly different, but in general it feels the same to me.
Also, experiment with INT and NDP. I run NDP Off and INT 1. The FFB becomes slightly quicker and sharper, but maybe too harsh for some, and there's a risk of oscillation when letting go of the wheel when you lower NDP or turn it off entirely.
Hi guys... Quoting a admin, for maybe get a response for my problem... Have some you experienced something like this on GT Sport???
I have a Podium DD wheel for Ps4/ps5... Last driver updated... PS5 updated, game updated.
After pitting, or sometimes pausing the game, or going in a session from qualy to race.. My wheel and base loss at least 50% off all my force feedback configuration, leaving my wheel almost with no feelings of track, car and etc... Tried to reset the configs, wheel and gt sport... But it is happening all the way.
In online competitions it is causing me a lot of problems... Cause im losing feedback in online champion lobs, and this is hugely broking mu racing pace...
Is there any config in the wheel that is making it happen!?? Or in the game???.... Some of the wheel settings that needs to be at the same level as the game???
Im really sad about this... Losing a lot of races cause of it...
Are you hitting the power button accidentally? What do you do to fix it? Maybe try a different wall outlet for your wheel? Just spitballing because it's never happened to me.... except that time I hit the kill switch on accident.
I think I might find my problem in the Podium Wheel base with the GT Sport...
Put de podium DD base in "Comp PS4" mode to play the game, I was playing GT Sport on PS4/PS5 mode, as I found that it should be on this mode to play some older games...
and for 30 minutes I played without problems. Lets see today that I´ll have more time to play and train for my champs... Will keep you noticed.
Im new on Podium DD... 30 days using it... and saw yesterday a Fanatec link with games for ps4, that needs to be played in "COMP PS4" mode.
I'm using GT DD Pro in "blue mode". With 5/1 in-game, the only bug that occurs occasionally is the wheel turning fully to one side during pause/options/pit.
With 1/1 in-game, the FFB sometimes becomes heavier until I set it to 2/1 and then back to 1/1.
So 5/1 in-game and blue mode is overall excellent for me.
Hi, question about the FF Sensitivity in the game, maybe I'm playing with a bit of a lack in ffb, but I was getting sore arms after playing a few hours so I lowered it a bit. But I don't really notice much difference between setting the game to 3/1 or 3/10
Can anyone explain what that setting exactly does so I know what I need to look for to notice it...
Just here to say that, the problem with my ffb getting weak after pitting or pausing going to race lobby, that I have, in the GT Sport, seems to be gone...
What I done?... changes my wheel, when playing GT Sport, on PS5, to the "COMP PS4" mode. Im not having problems anymore. Just 3 days playing, will play more time this week, and keep guys noted again.
"FFB sensitivity" in GT Sport increases the strength of the weakest FFB, thus compressing the dynamic range. Since you generally want as much dynamic range as possible - the wheel can go from super light to super heavy, instead of heavy to super heavy - Fanatec recommends "1". But, if you have a weak wheel and want to feel rumbling on the straights, increase "FFB sensitivity".
I wouldn't listen to Z28Gaming regarding this. He'd be fast even without FFB so it doesn't matter that he's fast with those settings that he's using. The recommended settings by Fanatec are far better. Just lower FFB strength in the wheel if it's too heavy for your liking (fast high downforce cars for example).
I think recommended setings for GT DD Pro with 5Nm can't be the same for version with Boost Kit.
I was driving GTS with 4/1 with 5Nm and I was OK with that for the most of the cars.
But, today I receive Boost Kit, leave same settings... FFS 😮 that is way to strong. I need to lower it to 2/1 and still have a feeling that is stronger than 4/1 on 5Nm
Hi Hugo, that "bug" was same on my CSL Elite and now od DD Pro, that happens every time when you pause/opt/pit while your wheel is not in the center position
since a few days I'm using the Podium F1 together with GT Sport. Before that I was quite satisfied withe the PS4 licensed CSL Elite wheel.
But of course after such an upgrade there are good reasons to expect somekind of an OMG or at least a WOW effect. But so far that's not the case. I hope it's because of the game and not because of the Podium wheel base. So I would assume that GT Sport is not the best game to get the right impression of the Podium base capabilities.
Do you have some recommendations for me. Should I try Project Cars 2, Assetto Corsa or Assetto Corsa Competizione instead of GT Sport?
Meanwhile I wil try some of your setting here. Many thanks for sharing them. I'm sure they will lead to some improvements.
many thanks for your reply. - But unfortunately I have no gaming PC. So I will try ACC on my PS4 pro. I hope I will notice a better FFB compared to GT Sport.
RaceRoom has the best FFB by far in my opinion. For GTS/GT7, it almost doesn't matter what wheelbase you got since the FFB clips as soon as the forces load up in corners, no matter what settings you use. The wheel just goes heavy and mute.
If you want to feel what your wheel is capable of, try RaceRoom with default Fanatec settings but turn NDP and INT Off for the purest possible signal. You likely won't touch games with lesser FFB after that. Just bring up the FFB meter in overlay and adjust the in-game strength/multiplier down so you don't pass the red line and clip. If you do clip, it feels exactly like GT7.
I kind of regretted getting a GT DD Pro until trying RaceRoom. ACC is really poor as well in my opinion, FFB wise. Now with RaceRoom, I'm finally pleased with my purchase and will be getting Fanatec's next wheelbase as soon as they release it.
Comments
I've been using Logitech G29 for years and recently bought a DD Pro. I'm playing GT Sport on a PS5 and all
the setting on the wheel say there locked. I've looked around and haven't seen this problem listed anywhere.
Any help would be greatly appreciated
Hi Glenn,
You need to hold the tuning /setup button down for 3-4 seconds to enter the more detailed setup menu.
Thanks for the quick reply.
I just tried that and it did open up more options that weren't there before but there still locked
Hi Glenn,
I think you've moved it from Auto Setup to Standard setup - you need Advanced setup to unlock all the options -
"Important Changes:
New Tuning Menu "Standard Mode" is the default mode for all bases:
New "Auto Setup" which is the factory default for P DD, CSL DD, GT DDPRO, CSW V2.5, CSL E WB PS4:
Ok. I'm not exactly sure how I got to advanced settings but it worked.
I've looked around and couldn't find any detailed instructions on how to do stuff like that.
Anyway Thank you so much for your help Nick, I feel better now😀
I just received my GT DD Pro. The recommended settings by Fanatec are excellent. However, if your main goal is to go as fast and consistent as possible, change to 1/1 in-game. 5/1 is too heavy, clips, and you can't steer and correct quick enough, especially with high grip and high downforce cars.
If you're in it for the "immersion/realism" instead of going fast, do whatever makes you happy...
Thanks for a beautiful product. I read all about everything that people complain about and wasn't affected by any of it. It's just perfect. Even the processing/shipping was super quick.
Thanks for the advice. I really like the wheel too but still haven't figured everything out so I'll take all the help I can get.
Or, you could use 5/1 in-game but lower FF. The rumble sensations are slightly different, but in general it feels the same to me.
Also, experiment with INT and NDP. I run NDP Off and INT 1. The FFB becomes slightly quicker and sharper, but maybe too harsh for some, and there's a risk of oscillation when letting go of the wheel when you lower NDP or turn it off entirely.
Hi guys... Quoting a admin, for maybe get a response for my problem... Have some you experienced something like this on GT Sport???
I have a Podium DD wheel for Ps4/ps5... Last driver updated... PS5 updated, game updated.
After pitting, or sometimes pausing the game, or going in a session from qualy to race.. My wheel and base loss at least 50% off all my force feedback configuration, leaving my wheel almost with no feelings of track, car and etc... Tried to reset the configs, wheel and gt sport... But it is happening all the way.
In online competitions it is causing me a lot of problems... Cause im losing feedback in online champion lobs, and this is hugely broking mu racing pace...
Is there any config in the wheel that is making it happen!?? Or in the game???.... Some of the wheel settings that needs to be at the same level as the game???
Im really sad about this... Losing a lot of races cause of it...
Come on Fanatec... Help me...
Are you hitting the power button accidentally? What do you do to fix it? Maybe try a different wall outlet for your wheel? Just spitballing because it's never happened to me.... except that time I hit the kill switch on accident.
I think I might find my problem in the Podium Wheel base with the GT Sport...
Put de podium DD base in "Comp PS4" mode to play the game, I was playing GT Sport on PS4/PS5 mode, as I found that it should be on this mode to play some older games...
and for 30 minutes I played without problems. Lets see today that I´ll have more time to play and train for my champs... Will keep you noticed.
Im new on Podium DD... 30 days using it... and saw yesterday a Fanatec link with games for ps4, that needs to be played in "COMP PS4" mode.
I'm using GT DD Pro in "blue mode". With 5/1 in-game, the only bug that occurs occasionally is the wheel turning fully to one side during pause/options/pit.
With 1/1 in-game, the FFB sometimes becomes heavier until I set it to 2/1 and then back to 1/1.
So 5/1 in-game and blue mode is overall excellent for me.
Hi, question about the FF Sensitivity in the game, maybe I'm playing with a bit of a lack in ffb, but I was getting sore arms after playing a few hours so I lowered it a bit. But I don't really notice much difference between setting the game to 3/1 or 3/10
Can anyone explain what that setting exactly does so I know what I need to look for to notice it...
On my Podium DD, I have in game FF set to 10. On the wheel FFF is at 29 w/ Linear OFF. In general I went with these settings https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aR2Q6NTCpXc&lc=Ugxt154n8Pwlgs_S9Ph4AaABAg.9XkW_dh1Afw9XkecI48H9H except FFF 29 and Linear Off
Just here to say that, the problem with my ffb getting weak after pitting or pausing going to race lobby, that I have, in the GT Sport, seems to be gone...
What I done?... changes my wheel, when playing GT Sport, on PS5, to the "COMP PS4" mode. Im not having problems anymore. Just 3 days playing, will play more time this week, and keep guys noted again.
"FFB sensitivity" in GT Sport increases the strength of the weakest FFB, thus compressing the dynamic range. Since you generally want as much dynamic range as possible - the wheel can go from super light to super heavy, instead of heavy to super heavy - Fanatec recommends "1". But, if you have a weak wheel and want to feel rumbling on the straights, increase "FFB sensitivity".
I wouldn't listen to Z28Gaming regarding this. He'd be fast even without FFB so it doesn't matter that he's fast with those settings that he's using. The recommended settings by Fanatec are far better. Just lower FFB strength in the wheel if it's too heavy for your liking (fast high downforce cars for example).
Thanks that's a good explanation.
I think recommended setings for GT DD Pro with 5Nm can't be the same for version with Boost Kit.
I was driving GTS with 4/1 with 5Nm and I was OK with that for the most of the cars.
But, today I receive Boost Kit, leave same settings... FFS 😮 that is way to strong. I need to lower it to 2/1 and still have a feeling that is stronger than 4/1 on 5Nm
Hi Hugo, that "bug" was same on my CSL Elite and now od DD Pro, that happens every time when you pause/opt/pit while your wheel is not in the center position
I think the same bug was on my old TM T150
Decide what your goal is. Mine is to go as fast as possible. Even with "G29 levels of torque" the Fanatec DD is well worth the money.
If you have to battle the wheel, become sluggish in corrections, and fatigued over time, you're most likely getting slower. Just watch your lap times.
Hi all,
since a few days I'm using the Podium F1 together with GT Sport. Before that I was quite satisfied withe the PS4 licensed CSL Elite wheel.
But of course after such an upgrade there are good reasons to expect somekind of an OMG or at least a WOW effect. But so far that's not the case. I hope it's because of the game and not because of the Podium wheel base. So I would assume that GT Sport is not the best game to get the right impression of the Podium base capabilities.
Do you have some recommendations for me. Should I try Project Cars 2, Assetto Corsa or Assetto Corsa Competizione instead of GT Sport?
Meanwhile I wil try some of your setting here. Many thanks for sharing them. I'm sure they will lead to some improvements.
Cheers,
Thorsten
Try ACC on a PC using some of Maurice's individual profiles using Fanalab - night and day compared to the feedback on a console -
Saying that I find the FFB better on GT7 compared to GT Sport.
Hi Nick,
many thanks for your reply. - But unfortunately I have no gaming PC. So I will try ACC on my PS4 pro. I hope I will notice a better FFB compared to GT Sport.
Cheers,
Thorsten
RaceRoom has the best FFB by far in my opinion. For GTS/GT7, it almost doesn't matter what wheelbase you got since the FFB clips as soon as the forces load up in corners, no matter what settings you use. The wheel just goes heavy and mute.
If you want to feel what your wheel is capable of, try RaceRoom with default Fanatec settings but turn NDP and INT Off for the purest possible signal. You likely won't touch games with lesser FFB after that. Just bring up the FFB meter in overlay and adjust the in-game strength/multiplier down so you don't pass the red line and clip. If you do clip, it feels exactly like GT7.
I kind of regretted getting a GT DD Pro until trying RaceRoom. ACC is really poor as well in my opinion, FFB wise. Now with RaceRoom, I'm finally pleased with my purchase and will be getting Fanatec's next wheelbase as soon as they release it.
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