It's interesting to read how differently everyone interprets these settings. For me, they feel quite heavy. I was running similar settings in GT Sport but with NDPR at 25 and FF Str at 65. I'm now running these settings but with FF Str at around 75 and am happy enough, but do find it a little heavy. Heavier than I have F1 2021 or WRC10 set. I'm on 5nm with a boostkit in the post.
I like them but I may drop the NDPR as I find the force of the tires pulling back to centre a bit u -natural, but then I don't track my own car so I wouldn't know. 😀 I'm going to leave it at 38 for a bit though.
Personally I don't understand something, I find my DD Pro 8nm perfect and very natural and the force at default value is ok for me.
I can't figure out why many users are saying that is not heavy enough? If you drive a real car IS NOT heavy enough! We like to drive cars not wrestling with them...
There's very little guidance on what FFB is, why different games have different FFB "languages" and what differs them, and what the different sensations in the different "languages" tell you about the car/handling/surface. You need to understand this to understand how to set everything up and understand it.
Instead, we have thousands of threads where men compete about who's most macho with their torque settings. Most of them are neither fit nor fast. Unfortunately, many beginners read these threads.
So yes, more torque isn't necessarily better. However, more torque is generally needed to compensate for increased leverage when using a bigger diameter wheel, which Fanatec has plenty of in stock. And even with very little torque, like 1-3 Nm, to me a Fanatec DD is still worth it since it's so much clearer and more detailed in communicating the FFB sensations than the competition.
Personally, I find 100% at 8 Nm with a 28 cm silly. And the more skilled I get, the less torque is optimal for going even faster. If I let someone who doesn't do simracing try it, I increase the torque because they're insensitive to the sensations in the "language" mentioned above.
Thanks for answering and I agree 100% with you. I never liked the heavy torque, first of all it keeps the wheel's health in good level and the HW would last way more, secondly as you've mentioned, higher the torque worst the driving times, usually.
I am coming from a CSL Elite and I am very very happy by the result. The overall force for me is natural and correct and I feel all the details + smooth overall functioning. Actually, in GT7 I've noticed a better FF than GT Sport. ACC is still the best for me but GT7 is coming closer now.
Does your base/wheel vibrate when you start to lose grip on the tires? When I turn and give it too much steering angle my base starts to vibrate pretty aggressively. It’s really noticeable on slow turns with a lot of angle. Are the vibrations caused by the tires not being able to grip the asphalt. I have a dd pro as well but I am new to dd wheels so I don’t know if the vibrations are normal or not. I should add that I’m not getting too many details on the ffb as well and I’ve tried messing with settings a lot
Because, I can't even drive the vehicle with force at 100. It feels like you need Dewayne Johnson's arms and the ffb is trash on mine. I have never been able to use the recommended Fanatec settings here in the US. They are always horrible on any wheel.
Yes you can. Well at least you could on previous GT games. I am still waiting on my GT DD Pro shipment so I can't confirm on GT 7 but I suspect it will be the same as all other GT games.
Also, GT's clutch modelling is very basic, you'll need to either ensure your clutch pedal is all the way down or change the clutches max to 75% or wherever the spring's bite point is.
When it starts vibrating, you've exceeded the available grip level way too far. In a good race, you shouldn't have felt it at all.
Another thing I've noticed - correct me if I'm wrong - is that the absolute edge of available grip feels like FFB clipping. It feels like the suspension has bottomed out or something and you only feel a perfectly smooth and heavy wheel. All the way until that point, the wheel is moving around according to the G-forces (SoP effect) and suspension movements. So when it becomes smooth and heavy, you better be extremely gentle with inputs.
So, the wheel goes from very light on the straights, to communicative and jolting during turns, to perfectly smooth and heavy, to smooth and heavy and vibrating. In GT Sport, it was the same but loss of grip would be indicated by sudden loss of heaviness in the wheel.
My settings are the recommended here but with lowered INT (1) and NDP (Off).
Or, what are you supposed to feel? Is the FFB language in GT7 just supposed to be "intuitive"? I'm a bit surprised it's not explained anywhere what the different sensations mean.
I was A+ in GT Sport and have no issues racing any car on the limit in GT7 without assists. The physics engine in GT7 has become much more sensitive, difficult and realistic - simply more difficult and fun.
I'm fairly certain this is related to the in game Traction Control.... You feel vibration when the ABS fires off... and Traction Control utilizes the ABS system... So it stands to reason you feel the vibration when your car's Traction Control is in use.
It could have been like this, but it isn't. TC activating isn't related to the vibration feature. Also, in real life, TC can be implemented in different ways, more or less obtrusive - not everything vibrates like old ABS systems.
However, TC will of course activate when you slide so much that the wheel starts vibrating, if you have it engaged at all. The wheel will vibrate equally without TC engaged.
(I never drive with TC in GTS/GT7 and the wheel always vibrates if I mess up way too much.)
"Gran Turismo 7 features an understeer vibration effect that can generate some mechanical noise, particularly with the CSL Elite Wheel Base + (due to the belt drive). This can be reduced by lowering the FEI value, but we recommend that FEI is kept as high as possible to retain other areas of force feedback detail."
Read all the posts here, and Im trying to figure some questions that was not answered.
Will somehwere in time, the DD Podium Wheel appears in GT7 controllers menu?? If no, Which one shoud I config for my DD Podium, DD Pro or CSL Elite wheel???
In the base, which mode should I config? PS5/PS4 Mode or Comp PS5/PS4 mode?
A so high end product should be one of the first to be able to have a configuration in the game... Fanatec should be more compromissed to put the DD wheel in the new GT7... this is so crazy... How your best base is not able for configuration in the game???
First post - read every comment here and some great info. Thanks!
Acquiring a PS5 coincided with GT7 release date - what a week its been. Coming from Forza Motorsport and F1 on XSX primarily, using a Logitech G920 and Playseat Challenge. For the PS5, I went back and forth on G29 or G293. My local Microcenter had the Thrustmaster T248 in stock, but did not like the wheel (felt like a toy), and test drove the Thrustmaster T300 RS GT the past week. Superb wheel, but not cheap and somewhat older tech now. So I stretched and ordered the DD Pro, 5NM, plus 8NM boost and load cell.
The DD Pro arrived Monday and was blown away by first impression on 5NM. The seating position wasn't great with PS Challenge, so solved that Tue night with a Next Gen Racing GT Track. Will pause there for now on additions.
I've mirrored the settings on this thread and candidly just need to spend more time with the game. I couldn't believe how different (good different) the wheel felt on 5NM first session. Tried the 8NM last night and with recommended settings it felt too heavy for me, but that might be an adjustment period coupled with tweaking settings.
Lots to learn. No idea what NDP really does, and need to tune the in game settings of 5 and 1 along with the FF on wheel at 100. I believe sensitivity at 1 is correct, but did expect to feel more from curbs and off tarmac (maybe I'll try rally). The FF is too strong for long sessions at 5 game 100 wheel, but look forward to experimenting with the right balance.
Hurry up loadcell pedal, and i never knew what a butt kicker was yesterday, but I want one!
DD Pro with Boost Kit and F1 Esports wheel and V3 pedals
SEN Auto
FF 100
FFS Peak
NDP 001
NFR Off
NIN Off
INT 1
FEI 100
FOR 100
SPR 100
DPR 030
BLI personal
SHO Off (As much as it is great while braking, it amplifies vibration during understeering. It would be great to separate those two things and make it works only when BLI triggers)
The Sensitivity at 10 is actually not good as at 1 makes the feedback more dynamic. With things above 1 the lower feedback gets boosted which then makes the FFB appear flatter and less dynamic. Especially with the boost kit it should be set to 1, without I would understand why someone would like to boost it via ingame settings but having the boost kit and more torque you don't need to exaggerate FFB in-game and then have it more dynamic.
"Adjust the point at which the steering wheel begins to provide force feedback - the means by which information about contact with the track surface is communicated to your hands. The higher the number, the more sensitive and responsive this function will become, while lower settings will reduce wheel movement when driving on the straight. This range of options should allow you to find a setting exactly to your liking."
I will try it more with 1, but on 10 I definitely have much more control of the car, car turns into corner much easier, same with catching oversteer 🤷🏻♂️🤔 with your settings my reactions are slower and car feels kinda sluggish
But OK, I'll put few hundreds of km in your settings and see how it goes
I agree. The in game wording is somewhat confusing though as my interpretation was the higher the value the greater the sensitivity (and feedback) would be.
"Adjust the resistance of the steering wheel when you start to turn it. This resistance is an example of force feedback, which communicates information about the road surface to a driver through their tires. The greater this value, the more responsive to changes the steering wheel will become. When this values is lower, steering becomes gentler when driving in a straight line. Increasing or decreasing these values allows you to adjust the controls to suit your driving style."
The wording is not open to interpretation, it is not ambiguous nor nebulous. Greater value = more responsive wheel... Lesser value = less responsive wheel... ( Of course this is an English Translation from Japanese assuming this games original language is in fact in Japanese. It wasn't too long ago the Patch Notes weren't Translated to English... As in within the past 5 days)
To sit there and say '10 is bad' is a MATTER OF OPINION. The game quite literally ends with 'to suit your driving style...' Your convoluted thoughts shouldn't have to be pressed on to others to validate whatever is broken in your comprehension of vocabulary....
It wasn't written as Prose nor is it Fiction. It is written to be informative. Symbolism and interpretation are not part of equation. Broken minds.
Fair, but based on the volume of comments in various places online, there does appear to be some questioning. Simply put, if I want to drive down a race track and feel the road surface through the steering wheel with greater effect, I still don't know if that is closer to 1 or 10.
While the game describes a higher value as more responsive, comments from experienced users online suggest 1 is more dynamic. It's all as clear as mud, but anyway, moving on as its not that serious.
Dude... It's in 'PLAIN ENGLISH' ... The 1st sentence provided by Polyphony. "Adjust the RESISTANCE of the STEERING WHEEL when YOU START TO TURN IT."
It's not about how dynamic the FFB is lets say when you drive over rumble strips... nor the weight of the vehicle midway through rotations when you should have your steering angle set for the turn... nor when the back end loses grip... nor when you're on the dirt/off track...
PLAIN ENGLISH... not some technical jargon... not some poetry... not some euphemism... not some symbolism... not some simili... not some double entendre or double speak.... PLAIN ENGLISH
They're not trying to be coy. Or beat around the bush.
Comments
It's interesting to read how differently everyone interprets these settings. For me, they feel quite heavy. I was running similar settings in GT Sport but with NDPR at 25 and FF Str at 65. I'm now running these settings but with FF Str at around 75 and am happy enough, but do find it a little heavy. Heavier than I have F1 2021 or WRC10 set. I'm on 5nm with a boostkit in the post.
I like them but I may drop the NDPR as I find the force of the tires pulling back to centre a bit u -natural, but then I don't track my own car so I wouldn't know. 😀 I'm going to leave it at 38 for a bit though.
Personally I don't understand something, I find my DD Pro 8nm perfect and very natural and the force at default value is ok for me.
I can't figure out why many users are saying that is not heavy enough? If you drive a real car IS NOT heavy enough! We like to drive cars not wrestling with them...
bruh... if I'm not sweatin a torrential storm by half of the 1st lap... it aint heavy enough.... (heavy sarcasm)
There's very little guidance on what FFB is, why different games have different FFB "languages" and what differs them, and what the different sensations in the different "languages" tell you about the car/handling/surface. You need to understand this to understand how to set everything up and understand it.
Instead, we have thousands of threads where men compete about who's most macho with their torque settings. Most of them are neither fit nor fast. Unfortunately, many beginners read these threads.
So yes, more torque isn't necessarily better. However, more torque is generally needed to compensate for increased leverage when using a bigger diameter wheel, which Fanatec has plenty of in stock. And even with very little torque, like 1-3 Nm, to me a Fanatec DD is still worth it since it's so much clearer and more detailed in communicating the FFB sensations than the competition.
Personally, I find 100% at 8 Nm with a 28 cm silly. And the more skilled I get, the less torque is optimal for going even faster. If I let someone who doesn't do simracing try it, I increase the torque because they're insensitive to the sensations in the "language" mentioned above.
Thanks for answering and I agree 100% with you. I never liked the heavy torque, first of all it keeps the wheel's health in good level and the HW would last way more, secondly as you've mentioned, higher the torque worst the driving times, usually.
I am coming from a CSL Elite and I am very very happy by the result. The overall force for me is natural and correct and I feel all the details + smooth overall functioning. Actually, in GT7 I've noticed a better FF than GT Sport. ACC is still the best for me but GT7 is coming closer now.
Thanks again and happy driving to all.
Does your base/wheel vibrate when you start to lose grip on the tires? When I turn and give it too much steering angle my base starts to vibrate pretty aggressively. It’s really noticeable on slow turns with a lot of angle. Are the vibrations caused by the tires not being able to grip the asphalt. I have a dd pro as well but I am new to dd wheels so I don’t know if the vibrations are normal or not. I should add that I’m not getting too many details on the ffb as well and I’ve tried messing with settings a lot
That's a "feature" in the GT FFB and indicates understeering, it's normal.
Thank you
My settings using the boost kit.
Gran Turismo DD Pro
Tuning Menu Settings:
In-Game Settings:
Mhm, you lower FF and FOR? How can you even feel anything with such a low FFB of just around 3Nm?
FOR usually should always be set to 100...
Because, I can't even drive the vehicle with force at 100. It feels like you need Dewayne Johnson's arms and the ffb is trash on mine. I have never been able to use the recommended Fanatec settings here in the US. They are always horrible on any wheel.
Yes you can. Well at least you could on previous GT games. I am still waiting on my GT DD Pro shipment so I can't confirm on GT 7 but I suspect it will be the same as all other GT games.
Also, GT's clutch modelling is very basic, you'll need to either ensure your clutch pedal is all the way down or change the clutches max to 75% or wherever the spring's bite point is.
I confirm as well, in GT is normal and it happens when you start loosing the grip.
When it starts vibrating, you've exceeded the available grip level way too far. In a good race, you shouldn't have felt it at all.
Another thing I've noticed - correct me if I'm wrong - is that the absolute edge of available grip feels like FFB clipping. It feels like the suspension has bottomed out or something and you only feel a perfectly smooth and heavy wheel. All the way until that point, the wheel is moving around according to the G-forces (SoP effect) and suspension movements. So when it becomes smooth and heavy, you better be extremely gentle with inputs.
So, the wheel goes from very light on the straights, to communicative and jolting during turns, to perfectly smooth and heavy, to smooth and heavy and vibrating. In GT Sport, it was the same but loss of grip would be indicated by sudden loss of heaviness in the wheel.
My settings are the recommended here but with lowered INT (1) and NDP (Off).
Or, what are you supposed to feel? Is the FFB language in GT7 just supposed to be "intuitive"? I'm a bit surprised it's not explained anywhere what the different sensations mean.
I was A+ in GT Sport and have no issues racing any car on the limit in GT7 without assists. The physics engine in GT7 has become much more sensitive, difficult and realistic - simply more difficult and fun.
I'm fairly certain this is related to the in game Traction Control.... You feel vibration when the ABS fires off... and Traction Control utilizes the ABS system... So it stands to reason you feel the vibration when your car's Traction Control is in use.
It could have been like this, but it isn't. TC activating isn't related to the vibration feature. Also, in real life, TC can be implemented in different ways, more or less obtrusive - not everything vibrates like old ABS systems.
However, TC will of course activate when you slide so much that the wheel starts vibrating, if you have it engaged at all. The wheel will vibrate equally without TC engaged.
(I never drive with TC in GTS/GT7 and the wheel always vibrates if I mess up way too much.)
Guys, the vibration is GT's way of transmitting understeer. No need to wonder about it. Fanatec literally explains to you what it is in the first post on this thread. Not to mention this: https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/threads/understeer-rattle-effect-poll-only-for-wheel-users.376839/
Quote from the very first post of this thread:
"Gran Turismo 7 features an understeer vibration effect that can generate some mechanical noise, particularly with the CSL Elite Wheel Base + (due to the belt drive). This can be reduced by lowering the FEI value, but we recommend that FEI is kept as high as possible to retain other areas of force feedback detail."
I Have a DD1 Podium for Playstation here...
Read all the posts here, and Im trying to figure some questions that was not answered.
Will somehwere in time, the DD Podium Wheel appears in GT7 controllers menu?? If no, Which one shoud I config for my DD Podium, DD Pro or CSL Elite wheel???
In the base, which mode should I config? PS5/PS4 Mode or Comp PS5/PS4 mode?
A so high end product should be one of the first to be able to have a configuration in the game... Fanatec should be more compromissed to put the DD wheel in the new GT7... this is so crazy... How your best base is not able for configuration in the game???
Thank you guys!!
First post - read every comment here and some great info. Thanks!
Acquiring a PS5 coincided with GT7 release date - what a week its been. Coming from Forza Motorsport and F1 on XSX primarily, using a Logitech G920 and Playseat Challenge. For the PS5, I went back and forth on G29 or G293. My local Microcenter had the Thrustmaster T248 in stock, but did not like the wheel (felt like a toy), and test drove the Thrustmaster T300 RS GT the past week. Superb wheel, but not cheap and somewhat older tech now. So I stretched and ordered the DD Pro, 5NM, plus 8NM boost and load cell.
The DD Pro arrived Monday and was blown away by first impression on 5NM. The seating position wasn't great with PS Challenge, so solved that Tue night with a Next Gen Racing GT Track. Will pause there for now on additions.
I've mirrored the settings on this thread and candidly just need to spend more time with the game. I couldn't believe how different (good different) the wheel felt on 5NM first session. Tried the 8NM last night and with recommended settings it felt too heavy for me, but that might be an adjustment period coupled with tweaking settings.
Lots to learn. No idea what NDP really does, and need to tune the in game settings of 5 and 1 along with the FF on wheel at 100. I believe sensitivity at 1 is correct, but did expect to feel more from curbs and off tarmac (maybe I'll try rally). The FF is too strong for long sessions at 5 game 100 wheel, but look forward to experimenting with the right balance.
Hurry up loadcell pedal, and i never knew what a butt kicker was yesterday, but I want one!
DD Pro with Boost Kit and F1 Esports wheel and V3 pedals
In-Game Settings:
Oh, I forgot one thing.
Since I am using F1 Esports wheel, in GTSport my left joystick have camera funtion (to look arround car) but here in GT7 it have no function.
It would be nice if someone tell PD to fix that thing 😁
The Sensitivity at 10 is actually not good as at 1 makes the feedback more dynamic. With things above 1 the lower feedback gets boosted which then makes the FFB appear flatter and less dynamic. Especially with the boost kit it should be set to 1, without I would understand why someone would like to boost it via ingame settings but having the boost kit and more torque you don't need to exaggerate FFB in-game and then have it more dynamic.
This should really be a sticky or in the original post since there's so much misconception about it, also on GT Planet and Reddit.
Thanks, Maurice! If there's anything else that we can learn, please tell!
Somebody?
PD about Feedback Sensitivity:
"Adjust the point at which the steering wheel begins to provide force feedback - the means by which information about contact with the track surface is communicated to your hands. The higher the number, the more sensitive and responsive this function will become, while lower settings will reduce wheel movement when driving on the straight. This range of options should allow you to find a setting exactly to your liking."
I will try it more with 1, but on 10 I definitely have much more control of the car, car turns into corner much easier, same with catching oversteer 🤷🏻♂️🤔 with your settings my reactions are slower and car feels kinda sluggish
But OK, I'll put few hundreds of km in your settings and see how it goes
Thx
Maurice isn't contradicting PD. They're describing the same thing but in different ways.
I agree. The in game wording is somewhat confusing though as my interpretation was the higher the value the greater the sensitivity (and feedback) would be.
The EXACT wording in the game... VERBATIM
"Adjust the resistance of the steering wheel when you start to turn it. This resistance is an example of force feedback, which communicates information about the road surface to a driver through their tires. The greater this value, the more responsive to changes the steering wheel will become. When this values is lower, steering becomes gentler when driving in a straight line. Increasing or decreasing these values allows you to adjust the controls to suit your driving style."
The wording is not open to interpretation, it is not ambiguous nor nebulous. Greater value = more responsive wheel... Lesser value = less responsive wheel... ( Of course this is an English Translation from Japanese assuming this games original language is in fact in Japanese. It wasn't too long ago the Patch Notes weren't Translated to English... As in within the past 5 days)
To sit there and say '10 is bad' is a MATTER OF OPINION. The game quite literally ends with 'to suit your driving style...' Your convoluted thoughts shouldn't have to be pressed on to others to validate whatever is broken in your comprehension of vocabulary....
It wasn't written as Prose nor is it Fiction. It is written to be informative. Symbolism and interpretation are not part of equation. Broken minds.
Fair, but based on the volume of comments in various places online, there does appear to be some questioning. Simply put, if I want to drive down a race track and feel the road surface through the steering wheel with greater effect, I still don't know if that is closer to 1 or 10.
While the game describes a higher value as more responsive, comments from experienced users online suggest 1 is more dynamic. It's all as clear as mud, but anyway, moving on as its not that serious.
Dude... It's in 'PLAIN ENGLISH' ... The 1st sentence provided by Polyphony. "Adjust the RESISTANCE of the STEERING WHEEL when YOU START TO TURN IT."
It's not about how dynamic the FFB is lets say when you drive over rumble strips... nor the weight of the vehicle midway through rotations when you should have your steering angle set for the turn... nor when the back end loses grip... nor when you're on the dirt/off track...
PLAIN ENGLISH... not some technical jargon... not some poetry... not some euphemism... not some symbolism... not some simili... not some double entendre or double speak.... PLAIN ENGLISH
They're not trying to be coy. Or beat around the bush.