it is COMP V2.5 in the video yes, however it does this on regular PC mode as well.
The issue occurs exactly the same if i use the wheel tuning menu.
i dont use Fanalab because it really is of very little use, other than to add some convenience that saves about 3 seconds and as many button presses to switch setups.
the lighting and screens on the wheels are of no use to me as i only race in VR.
the worst bit is, even if you get it to the settings you want, which is tedious but achievable, when you enter any game, the settings tend to do what they like. I went to race in Project Cars 2 one time and the DOR had gone up to max, so it made any car have about 7 turns lock to lock... fine if i was driving a truck, but i was in a Porsche GTE...
Well i just cant understand why all the BETAs and not one single full release updated package in 12 months... makes no sense does it...
Its not like this equipment if purely experimental and not yet in production, these wheelbases are full retail products, but software/firmware problems are very common, and support is very minimal.
BETAs have their place, no question about it, and from time to time i dont mind trying them if they offer some sort of feature that might be worth a look, but i stick with full public release drivers as a rule, very rarely ever have an issue with them.
i cant say i know of too many devices that have one stable release version driver and then follow it up with more than 10 BETAs when the said device is still current hardware....
My Xbox Hub did the same thing on 352 & 353 but as long as I set My settings through the wheel and Not through the PC everything worked as intended... Once I set My on wheel settings through the wheel when using the Xbox Hub I only Checked Pedal and Hand Brake Function in control panel but Never opened the wheel tuning Menu page... wheel worked well with All Games and all settings Loaded correctly also.
Just set everything through the wheel but don't open the PC Control panel wheel tuning menu and see how it goes....Hope this helps to get you through until the issue is resolved.
I just tested with My Xbox Hub w/Podium APM and confirm that the Menu glitching between Podium Hub and Xbox Hub is present in Dr-352, 353 and 356... But as I mentioned in the above post. "Once I set My on wheel settings through the wheel when using the Xbox Hub I only Check Pedal and Hand Brake Function in control panel but I Never open the "wheel tuning Menu page" and the wheel worked well with All Games, No Loss of Button Functions and all wheel settings Loaded correctly also.
Only feature that I couldnt use is the Tune wheel through PC.
Solution: Using Xbox/UHX just don't open the PC wheel tuning properties page until things get sorted But wheel operate Normal while in game. Hope this helps.
Yeah mine actually still does odd things either way, but i had the properties page open to check and test etc, so i cant be certain if it would work as you say without opening at all.
the biggest issue there is the two APM equiped wheels i have dont have button functions without going into properties and swapping setup tabs, its odd, because on v335 they work straight away when you swap a wheel regardless of paddle type.
i might give it a go later and see how it goes. When i swapped back to v335 and it's firmware everything worked relatively normally...
Hello. Small test of version 356, unfortunately still the same concerns as version 352. On Xbox One, there is always a management problem with the angle of rotation of the steering wheel, there is a big loss of sensation (vibrator, coating of the road ....), and significant oscillations in straight lines. Tested on forza motorsport 7 and asseto corsa. Back in V346 for me. Still no FANATEC feedback on problems with the Xbox One.
Driver 356 only can fix pc related issues as no new firmware is included! It's not possible that a driver update can fix console related issues because those have to be fixed with firmware!
Marcel I have was able to load 347 on my v2.5 can you recommend a staple driver that supports Fanalab?
As you know 347 does not. I'm running the last motor V22 with the 347. If it's not going to work please be upfront I know it's beta but, I see very little luck with what I have read. Your feedback would be highly appreciated.
For the CSW V2.5 347 is the most recent one which works well, we are currently working on a fix for the Drift setting issue. Until then you need to use a previous version of FanaLab for compatibility with driver if it doesn't work with most recent one.
First time I hear this regarding these driver and firmware versions. Can you go back to 346 and the firmware contained to check if it's really an issue of the new driver and firmware?
Where is your wheel connected? I once had issues with overloading USB ports and changed from front to back USB for example which solved my connection issues.
Thanks! Keep it up. Being a programmer can be tough. Lots of people will ramble and rumble, but you're the artist.
I did read that you probably going to remove the Spring, etc settings cause nobody really uses them, and put them in an 'advanced'-mode. Are you going to do this? I think ''less is more''
(Off-topic, but related to FFB:) I also think the recommend settings forum page deserves some more love, like a link or it's own section on the frontpage. I think you guys nailed the settings, except for RE3 cause of the new physics/ffb. But that's a personal story.
Yes we are planning to make the Tuning Menu a bit simpler in the future as it got a lot more settings recently which can be quite overwhelming for new users especially because some of the settings you rarely touch or don't even need to. Because of that we also introduced the dynamic tool tips to make settings easier to understand. Having a pro mode would be the next step want and have to fix the other issues first though and it's a more difficult step which needs a bit more time in comparison to the tool tips for example. #
Thanks for the feedback about or recommended settings, I've forwarded it.
Any ETA on fixes for the DRI issues on the CSW wheels? Really enjoying Fanalabs so I'm not going to roll back, but the sluggish wheel and slight motor cogging are a bit of a drag.
I've installed the last driver (Fanatec_driver_356.zip).
I successed to upgrade the firmware of the Wheel and the base, but it's stucking for the motor. The red circle is turning slowly and the game controler pane is not responding. Nothing happend after that. If i reboot the base, all is ok.
I have a new feeling into the FFB but as i lost my settings, i don't know if it's about the motor or about my settings.
Yes I know. but I have been testing this DR / FW and I have seen the temperature and fans, so I did tests to discard it, I think it is something serious to be mentioned on the first page.
also understand that it is difficult to read the 24 comment pages and more when most are talking about the podiums
I just got my DD1 PS4 base and F1 wheel rim back from the Fanatec workshop as the wheel lost power. I thought the reason was my updating of the driver and firmware to support the PBME with the new Podium Porsche wheelrim. It turned out "the main wasn't in good conditions".
I kindly asked that the base was returned to me with the firmware that supports the PBME. Powering it on finding that base fw is v664, motor fw is v34, I think they installed this with the v347 driver. As far as I recall, v347 and those firmware version do not support the PBME, right?
So can I still use my Podium Porsche wheel with the HUB and PBME on v664 and v34 or do I need to upgrade firmware?
Would you recommend that I stay on v664 and v34 and wait for the release of a stable driver/firmware solution before I can run my Porsche wheel with the HUB and PBME or do I have another option?
Powering the base on with the v664 and v34 for the first time, the fan was running 100%. Wasn't that supposed to be resolved as soon as the motor firmware was installed and calibration was done?
I noticed that the wheel is harder to turn after the trip to the workshop. It sounds like two metal parts are touching when turning the wheel. It doesn't matter of the wheel is on or off. Does it have something to do with the firmware versions from the v347 driver or the lack of the calibration? I believe I experienced the same weird cogging feel and noise just after I updated to v352 and the firmware versions that came with the first v1_1 for the PBME.
So I updated to v356, flashed the base firmware to v670 and motor firmware to v38. I calibrated the wheel and the motor as described in the instructions. The fan will not stop going 100% even after the calibration. The wheel now turns automatically at very high speed if I push it just a little over the middle neutral position. I have not seen this before. Is the turning wheel related to the tuning menu settings and if so what should they be set at?
Update: I turned off the base, removed the USB from my PC and turned it on again. I went into the tuning menu on Setup 1 and set Spring and Damper effect to OFF. Now the wheel no longer turns automatically when touching the wheel, but the fan is still on 100%. I have contacted support to ask what can be done about the fan still going 100% even after I calibrated the motor.
I wonder if installing the motor firmware V38 again and calibrating the motor would make the fan bug go away.
Motor calibration is only for activating the Anti-Cogging.
The Fan should already run silent at 660 RPM when updating motor firmware to v38. But if course you can try to reflash it.
Also enabling SPR and DPR shouldn't let the wheel turn automatically. Or I misunderstood that, maybe a video should help?! It's normal that there is no resistance in the wheel when you have NDP and NFR set to very low values. When touching the wheel it's then normal that the wheel spins freely. But it by no means automatically accelerates...
Hi Maurice, happy to see your still online this late :-)
I have made some videos along the way so I can show you that the wheel will spin automatically in certain situations, but it's to late to get the video from my phone to this comment (im typing on my PC). I couldn't help my self from trying the wheel in GT Sport on the PS4, so I did just to find that I had absolutely no FFB with the default tuning menu settings (they are reset when I flash the firmware). The in-game settings was 10 for FFB and 5 for Sensitivity. I could drive the car but without any FFB, no resistance, no road or curb effects, nothing. I then exited my time trial and went into a menu and suddenly the wheel started spinning again automatically and then sudden the connection between the wheel and the base was lost, the wheel also stopped spining. I thought for a minute that I was back in the same situation as before I sent the base and rim to the workshop. But turning off the base and connecting it to a PC, I got into the driver to do a system check of all the buttons working. I removed the wheel and did a motor calibration, which did not solve the fan bug. Suddenly the wheel started spinning automatically again.... I wonder if it has anything to do with what is shown on the base LCD, if its just when I am in the FFB menu's that it starts. I did a read of the 'FFB offset' page when it was spinning. At one time it said a constant of 30% the next time it was 90%. I dont know what FFB offset means, but it seems there is a constant FFB signal being output that makes the wheel spin automatically (it continues to spin in one direction).
UPDATE: I reflashed the motor firmware to V38, took of the wheel and did a motor calibration. The shaft turned slowly to the right and then slowly to the left and suddenly started spinning very fast for aprox. 3 seconds and then came to a full stop. I put on the wheel again, but now the wheel was not recognized by the base and did not show in the software. Turned the base off and on again, and then it was showing as connected to the base again.
I think I need to investigate this further to see if it can be reproduced. I'm so unhappy.
Comments
Thanks for responding Marcel, appreciate it.
it is COMP V2.5 in the video yes, however it does this on regular PC mode as well.
The issue occurs exactly the same if i use the wheel tuning menu.
i dont use Fanalab because it really is of very little use, other than to add some convenience that saves about 3 seconds and as many button presses to switch setups.
the lighting and screens on the wheels are of no use to me as i only race in VR.
the worst bit is, even if you get it to the settings you want, which is tedious but achievable, when you enter any game, the settings tend to do what they like. I went to race in Project Cars 2 one time and the DOR had gone up to max, so it made any car have about 7 turns lock to lock... fine if i was driving a truck, but i was in a Porsche GTE...
Well i just cant understand why all the BETAs and not one single full release updated package in 12 months... makes no sense does it...
Its not like this equipment if purely experimental and not yet in production, these wheelbases are full retail products, but software/firmware problems are very common, and support is very minimal.
BETAs have their place, no question about it, and from time to time i dont mind trying them if they offer some sort of feature that might be worth a look, but i stick with full public release drivers as a rule, very rarely ever have an issue with them.
i cant say i know of too many devices that have one stable release version driver and then follow it up with more than 10 BETAs when the said device is still current hardware....
Are you using the Xbox Hub???
My Xbox Hub did the same thing on 352 & 353 but as long as I set My settings through the wheel and Not through the PC everything worked as intended... Once I set My on wheel settings through the wheel when using the Xbox Hub I only Checked Pedal and Hand Brake Function in control panel but Never opened the wheel tuning Menu page... wheel worked well with All Games and all settings Loaded correctly also.
Just set everything through the wheel but don't open the PC Control panel wheel tuning menu and see how it goes....Hope this helps to get you through until the issue is resolved.
I just tested with My Xbox Hub w/Podium APM and confirm that the Menu glitching between Podium Hub and Xbox Hub is present in Dr-352, 353 and 356... But as I mentioned in the above post. "Once I set My on wheel settings through the wheel when using the Xbox Hub I only Check Pedal and Hand Brake Function in control panel but I Never open the "wheel tuning Menu page" and the wheel worked well with All Games, No Loss of Button Functions and all wheel settings Loaded correctly also.
Only feature that I couldnt use is the Tune wheel through PC.
Solution: Using Xbox/UHX just don't open the PC wheel tuning properties page until things get sorted But wheel operate Normal while in game. Hope this helps.
Yeah mine actually still does odd things either way, but i had the properties page open to check and test etc, so i cant be certain if it would work as you say without opening at all.
the biggest issue there is the two APM equiped wheels i have dont have button functions without going into properties and swapping setup tabs, its odd, because on v335 they work straight away when you swap a wheel regardless of paddle type.
i might give it a go later and see how it goes. When i swapped back to v335 and it's firmware everything worked relatively normally...
Hello. Small test of version 356, unfortunately still the same concerns as version 352. On Xbox One, there is always a management problem with the angle of rotation of the steering wheel, there is a big loss of sensation (vibrator, coating of the road ....), and significant oscillations in straight lines. Tested on forza motorsport 7 and asseto corsa. Back in V346 for me. Still no FANATEC feedback on problems with the Xbox One.
Driver 356 only can fix pc related issues as no new firmware is included! It's not possible that a driver update can fix console related issues because those have to be fixed with firmware!
Marcel I have was able to load 347 on my v2.5 can you recommend a staple driver that supports Fanalab?
As you know 347 does not. I'm running the last motor V22 with the 347. If it's not going to work please be upfront I know it's beta but, I see very little luck with what I have read. Your feedback would be highly appreciated.
DD2 + Formula V2
PC Driver 356
WB 670
FW 28
System is unusable, sometimes I have no shifting, some times no force feedback in ACC. Was forced to withdraw from a race this morning which sucks.
I can send you files if you tell me where to find them.
For the CSW V2.5 347 is the most recent one which works well, we are currently working on a fix for the Drift setting issue. Until then you need to use a previous version of FanaLab for compatibility with driver if it doesn't work with most recent one.
First time I hear this regarding these driver and firmware versions. Can you go back to 346 and the firmware contained to check if it's really an issue of the new driver and firmware?
Where is your wheel connected? I once had issues with overloading USB ports and changed from front to back USB for example which solved my connection issues.
I says I need a newer driver to use the lastest Fanalab. I didn't try the older version but, I'll give it a try. .
Thanks
Thanks! Keep it up. Being a programmer can be tough. Lots of people will ramble and rumble, but you're the artist.
I did read that you probably going to remove the Spring, etc settings cause nobody really uses them, and put them in an 'advanced'-mode. Are you going to do this? I think ''less is more''
(Off-topic, but related to FFB:) I also think the recommend settings forum page deserves some more love, like a link or it's own section on the frontpage. I think you guys nailed the settings, except for RE3 cause of the new physics/ffb. But that's a personal story.
Yes we are planning to make the Tuning Menu a bit simpler in the future as it got a lot more settings recently which can be quite overwhelming for new users especially because some of the settings you rarely touch or don't even need to. Because of that we also introduced the dynamic tool tips to make settings easier to understand. Having a pro mode would be the next step want and have to fix the other issues first though and it's a more difficult step which needs a bit more time in comparison to the tool tips for example. #
Thanks for the feedback about or recommended settings, I've forwarded it.
Any ETA on fixes for the DRI issues on the CSW wheels? Really enjoying Fanalabs so I'm not going to roll back, but the sluggish wheel and slight motor cogging are a bit of a drag.
Hello
I've installed the last driver (Fanatec_driver_356.zip).
I successed to upgrade the firmware of the Wheel and the base, but it's stucking for the motor. The red circle is turning slowly and the game controler pane is not responding. Nothing happend after that. If i reboot the base, all is ok.
I have a new feeling into the FFB but as i lost my settings, i don't know if it's about the motor or about my settings.
Thanks for your help
Hi Marcel:
I found another problem, they were mentioned before but you may not have seen them
Wheel Base Model (product ID): csw 2.5
Steering Wheel Model (product ID): csl p1
Driver Version:356
Base FW Version: 669
Wheel FW Version:018
FanaLab Version: 1.23
Greetings!!
v2.5 its best to use Dr/Fw from 347 for now... Read through the last few pages from the thread its mentioned several times.
@lorrell Can you give me a download link to this 347 for 2.5 please?
Yes I know. but I have been testing this DR / FW and I have seen the temperature and fans, so I did tests to discard it, I think it is something serious to be mentioned on the first page.
also understand that it is difficult to read the 24 comment pages and more when most are talking about the podiums
https://forum.fanatec.com/discussion/1058/fanatec-beta-driver-v347-for-csl-csw-all-wheels/p1
I just got my DD1 PS4 base and F1 wheel rim back from the Fanatec workshop as the wheel lost power. I thought the reason was my updating of the driver and firmware to support the PBME with the new Podium Porsche wheelrim. It turned out "the main wasn't in good conditions".
I kindly asked that the base was returned to me with the firmware that supports the PBME. Powering it on finding that base fw is v664, motor fw is v34, I think they installed this with the v347 driver. As far as I recall, v347 and those firmware version do not support the PBME, right?
So can I still use my Podium Porsche wheel with the HUB and PBME on v664 and v34 or do I need to upgrade firmware?
Would you recommend that I stay on v664 and v34 and wait for the release of a stable driver/firmware solution before I can run my Porsche wheel with the HUB and PBME or do I have another option?
Powering the base on with the v664 and v34 for the first time, the fan was running 100%. Wasn't that supposed to be resolved as soon as the motor firmware was installed and calibration was done?
you need to update to driver 356.
Thanks Maurice
I noticed that the wheel is harder to turn after the trip to the workshop. It sounds like two metal parts are touching when turning the wheel. It doesn't matter of the wheel is on or off. Does it have something to do with the firmware versions from the v347 driver or the lack of the calibration? I believe I experienced the same weird cogging feel and noise just after I updated to v352 and the firmware versions that came with the first v1_1 for the PBME.
You need to calibrate the motor to get Anti-Cogging working.
So I updated to v356, flashed the base firmware to v670 and motor firmware to v38. I calibrated the wheel and the motor as described in the instructions. The fan will not stop going 100% even after the calibration. The wheel now turns automatically at very high speed if I push it just a little over the middle neutral position. I have not seen this before. Is the turning wheel related to the tuning menu settings and if so what should they be set at?
After a firmware update the tuning menu will be reset to safe default values.
Your issue sounds odd, I would contact the support as it sounds like your wheel base might have a hardware issue.
Especially the 100% fan bug should definitely not be there after you flashed every firmware to the most recent ones.
Update: I turned off the base, removed the USB from my PC and turned it on again. I went into the tuning menu on Setup 1 and set Spring and Damper effect to OFF. Now the wheel no longer turns automatically when touching the wheel, but the fan is still on 100%. I have contacted support to ask what can be done about the fan still going 100% even after I calibrated the motor.
I wonder if installing the motor firmware V38 again and calibrating the motor would make the fan bug go away.
Motor calibration is only for activating the Anti-Cogging.
The Fan should already run silent at 660 RPM when updating motor firmware to v38. But if course you can try to reflash it.
Also enabling SPR and DPR shouldn't let the wheel turn automatically. Or I misunderstood that, maybe a video should help?! It's normal that there is no resistance in the wheel when you have NDP and NFR set to very low values. When touching the wheel it's then normal that the wheel spins freely. But it by no means automatically accelerates...
Hi Maurice, happy to see your still online this late :-)
I have made some videos along the way so I can show you that the wheel will spin automatically in certain situations, but it's to late to get the video from my phone to this comment (im typing on my PC). I couldn't help my self from trying the wheel in GT Sport on the PS4, so I did just to find that I had absolutely no FFB with the default tuning menu settings (they are reset when I flash the firmware). The in-game settings was 10 for FFB and 5 for Sensitivity. I could drive the car but without any FFB, no resistance, no road or curb effects, nothing. I then exited my time trial and went into a menu and suddenly the wheel started spinning again automatically and then sudden the connection between the wheel and the base was lost, the wheel also stopped spining. I thought for a minute that I was back in the same situation as before I sent the base and rim to the workshop. But turning off the base and connecting it to a PC, I got into the driver to do a system check of all the buttons working. I removed the wheel and did a motor calibration, which did not solve the fan bug. Suddenly the wheel started spinning automatically again.... I wonder if it has anything to do with what is shown on the base LCD, if its just when I am in the FFB menu's that it starts. I did a read of the 'FFB offset' page when it was spinning. At one time it said a constant of 30% the next time it was 90%. I dont know what FFB offset means, but it seems there is a constant FFB signal being output that makes the wheel spin automatically (it continues to spin in one direction).
UPDATE: I reflashed the motor firmware to V38, took of the wheel and did a motor calibration. The shaft turned slowly to the right and then slowly to the left and suddenly started spinning very fast for aprox. 3 seconds and then came to a full stop. I put on the wheel again, but now the wheel was not recognized by the base and did not show in the software. Turned the base off and on again, and then it was showing as connected to the base again.
I think I need to investigate this further to see if it can be reproduced. I'm so unhappy.