Indeed it is a Really Weird issue and hard to find because Most will Not shut their wheel base off with the Tuning Menu screen open... I found it purely By Chance because I was Rushing out to Dinner with the Wife and did not follow my Normal Shut Down procedure... I was Late for Dinner date because I had to sit back down to see exactly what caused it🤣🤣🤣
One More test to Run... When the "Fanatic" Logo is Displayed on Wheel base I don't notice the Random FFB Jolts.... I'm Not sure yet I have to Run a Few more hours to be sure...
I usually keep the FFB telemetry on the wheel base and I know for sure I get the Random FFB jolts.
is there any chance that the Electromagnetic Interference between my Valve Index VR headset and the DD1 will get solved?in few words when I switch on the steering wheel base and attach the steering wheel rim and put my VR headset, the tracking between the latter and my two base stations 1.0 get lost.. wen I disconnect the wheel base USB but still the power on the issue disappear..
That's weird as I'm also using an Index since months and didn't have tracking issues while using the DD2 because of EMI. I use lighthouse 2.0 stations though, don't know if they are better regarding EMI.
I only once had a problem that my rig was slightly shaking because of FFB and steering. This made my tripod stand of the Index base station which was touching the rig shaking as well, which lead to the Index cut tracking as long as the base station was not standing still.
If it's not that, you can try to make sure to route the cables further apart from each other if not done already. Are you using the USB cable which came with the DD and has the ferrite cores? Can you try a different USB port, maybe your Index in 3.0 and the wheel in 2.0?
The biggest problem right now is to consistently reproduce this issue as it seems not all DDs are affected and the users which have this problem often describe causes or setting workarounds which counter each other. Some also have it for like a day and it's really annoying but then it goes away for weeks. This makes it extremely difficult to reproduce and fix the issue as many things the dev needs to try he doesn't get immediate feedback on. Some internal testers had to drive for a week to give feedback on if it's better or worse because sometimes they don't get the issue anymore for days even though it should still be there and eventually come back.
If anyone has jolts very consistently, prominent and can reproduce them easily with this new firmware and didn't have this issue before, contact me if you are interested in exchanging the DD, then (A) we can use it here for testing to hopefully easier recreate this and (B) you have a new one which will show if you still have the issue and it's maybe not even dependent on the wheel base.
So I have now tested v352 and v353 on gt sport for several weeks. I was always kind of dissatisfied. the steering behavior was no longer so direct. the braking behavior was very bad. I then thought that I would go back to v335 .and lo and behold. perfect steering behavior. perfect braking behavior. was 5 tenths faster in the first lap
Hi Marcel, thanks for your feedback, yes I tried to use different USB 3.0 and 2.0 without any result so I suppose I should try with the Base Station 2.0 or to change to another steering wheel..
When are you guys going to work out a onboard "black box mode" for software data logging on your wheels??? If you had this built into the software (and hardware storage) we could provide all the information you need real easy. All you need is 16kb storage and software to drive it..
After joining the Fanatec club and watching all this "guessing" and comments on every driver release since 311, just makes this whole beta process look unprofessional. There are still so many issues not solved, because you can't find whats causing them.. Maybe a thought for future software and hardware implementation......
Ya know, I'm getting quite concerned, this random FFB thunk has been happening from launch of the DD bases but with the v352 drivers it's happening far more frequently, just did about 45 minutes on AC and ACC and it happened 5 times, two of which within ten seconds of each other while parked on the track with wheel centred and not touching it, jolt, jolt.
It's been the best part of a year now and not only has this not been mentioned by Fanatec that I've seen, maybe I've missed it, that they are working on fixing this it's actually gotten worse, I'm seriously starting to get doubts about my purchase now.
Please guys, can you acknowledge this issue and fix it soon.
On the first page is a new driver package version 356.
Changes:
The blue screen issue should be solved.
Driver UI now shows correct position of the Multi-Position-Switches
Fixed issue that Motor Firmware Updater not working.
Fixed issue on Mouse Tab that emulation of button 1 and button 3 is inverted for steering wheel Formula V2.
Fixed issue in the Tuning Menu Tab that changing the MPS mode affects the TM parameters Slider value.
Fixed issue in the Tuning Menu Tab that adjusting the TM parameter Slider affects the other TM parameters value.
Possible Fix of Property Page not showing after Driver installation.
Sorry no other changes regarding the Firmware yet, we are still working on them. I'll create a new discussion as soon as there are more significant improvements.
Hi Marcel, funny you mentioned this as tonight I played AC with the default screen and didn't get a single jolt. Then when in the pits I change the display to the one I mentioned in my previous post and I got a jolt on the second corner of my first lap. I then changed the screen back to the default one and guess what, no more jolts for the rest of the evening.
Nice!!! I'm using a DD2, PBME, Podium Hub and Indeed I too can confirm this... I mentioned this a few post up the page but I couldn't be 100% sure of this until last Night... For Me with the "Fanatec" Logo displayed on wheel base the Jolts seem to be Gone and if Not 100% Gone they are Drastically reduced to the point where I'm struggling to Feel if its still happening or Not <-- but that's the point where intended Subtle Game FFB spikes and Jolts become blurred its all In Our head and you end up looking for Ghost/Issues that are No longer present or a issue.
We just Need more to test this and post their findings and the Issue can be solved.
My testing Method is Gt3 Porsche, AMG Mercedes--> Race Room, ACC, AC and I test on same track Zandvoort in all 3 Games... Even if the Track Bump, Curb Modeling is Slightly different the Wheel is always being moved/ turned the same way so the wheel cornering loads and straight line behavior is going to be basically the same so it should show the same Issues in All 3 games if a wheel, Dr/Fw issue is present.
Fanatec Logo on base = No jolts or very Reduced...Note you must pay close attention so that you dont confuse Subtle FFB Spikes for Jolts... Further testing Needed.
Driver, Motor temp, FFB Graph screen on Base = Guaranteed Noticable FFB jolts.
For me it doesn't matter which screen i'm on. Tried them all. I never use other screens and i got so strong jolts sometimes it scared the shit out of me.
I like how well you guys don't support product. I can't believe that know one from the factory even respond or answer my question.
There is very little info on this so, why would a buy a DD wheel. Guys I can understand your frustration. Please can anyone give some feedback with the v2.5 wheel base with the software. I have read nothink postive so far. Can someone shed a little light on this.
Comments
Great News!!!
Indeed it is a Really Weird issue and hard to find because Most will Not shut their wheel base off with the Tuning Menu screen open... I found it purely By Chance because I was Rushing out to Dinner with the Wife and did not follow my Normal Shut Down procedure... I was Late for Dinner date because I had to sit back down to see exactly what caused it🤣🤣🤣
One More test to Run... When the "Fanatic" Logo is Displayed on Wheel base I don't notice the Random FFB Jolts.... I'm Not sure yet I have to Run a Few more hours to be sure...
I usually keep the FFB telemetry on the wheel base and I know for sure I get the Random FFB jolts.
Hello!
Someone could help me? I have a doubt
Known Issues:
If I set it OFF it will still be like -5?
OFF = -5??? or OFF = OFF?
Thanks!!!!
Yes, all values feel like -5 which means off is still acting like -5.
Hello!
is there any chance that the Electromagnetic Interference between my Valve Index VR headset and the DD1 will get solved?in few words when I switch on the steering wheel base and attach the steering wheel rim and put my VR headset, the tracking between the latter and my two base stations 1.0 get lost.. wen I disconnect the wheel base USB but still the power on the issue disappear..
I'm running the V2.5 wheel base want to ask has anyone using this wheel base tried and what setting to start with on Iracing?
I see some people had issues with the driver. It would be nice if it was not a beta version. Not a lot of info in my searches.
Thanks
Brent
Thanks Marcel!
I will stay with the old one and wait this issue is solved.
Any news on random jolts/knocks? When is a stable version of drivers coming out?
ASAP, it's of course being worked on.
That's weird as I'm also using an Index since months and didn't have tracking issues while using the DD2 because of EMI. I use lighthouse 2.0 stations though, don't know if they are better regarding EMI.
I only once had a problem that my rig was slightly shaking because of FFB and steering. This made my tripod stand of the Index base station which was touching the rig shaking as well, which lead to the Index cut tracking as long as the base station was not standing still.
If it's not that, you can try to make sure to route the cables further apart from each other if not done already. Are you using the USB cable which came with the DD and has the ferrite cores? Can you try a different USB port, maybe your Index in 3.0 and the wheel in 2.0?
The biggest problem right now is to consistently reproduce this issue as it seems not all DDs are affected and the users which have this problem often describe causes or setting workarounds which counter each other. Some also have it for like a day and it's really annoying but then it goes away for weeks. This makes it extremely difficult to reproduce and fix the issue as many things the dev needs to try he doesn't get immediate feedback on. Some internal testers had to drive for a week to give feedback on if it's better or worse because sometimes they don't get the issue anymore for days even though it should still be there and eventually come back.
If anyone has jolts very consistently, prominent and can reproduce them easily with this new firmware and didn't have this issue before, contact me if you are interested in exchanging the DD, then (A) we can use it here for testing to hopefully easier recreate this and (B) you have a new one which will show if you still have the issue and it's maybe not even dependent on the wheel base.
So I have now tested v352 and v353 on gt sport for several weeks. I was always kind of dissatisfied. the steering behavior was no longer so direct. the braking behavior was very bad. I then thought that I would go back to v335 .and lo and behold. perfect steering behavior. perfect braking behavior. was 5 tenths faster in the first lap
Can you answer some questions about the jolts you are experiencing please:
Hello Marcel,
I can reproduce the Jolts easily with my DD1, in ACC and Raceroom for example (sometimes directly, sometimes after a few minutes)
Most influenced/triggered by FEI setting over 80.
So I could play the hero and change my DD1 and give up a few days of simracing (with tears in my eyes ;( )
if it helps you guys to find the problem easier :)
Hi Marcel, thanks for your feedback, yes I tried to use different USB 3.0 and 2.0 without any result so I suppose I should try with the Base Station 2.0 or to change to another steering wheel..
I get the jolts in every Sim every time I play, it seems to be very random when it occurs, can be in a straight line or when cornering.
It even does it when FEI is lowered to 70.
I always run with the screen showing the driver and motor temperatures.
When are you guys going to work out a onboard "black box mode" for software data logging on your wheels??? If you had this built into the software (and hardware storage) we could provide all the information you need real easy. All you need is 16kb storage and software to drive it..
After joining the Fanatec club and watching all this "guessing" and comments on every driver release since 311, just makes this whole beta process look unprofessional. There are still so many issues not solved, because you can't find whats causing them.. Maybe a thought for future software and hardware implementation......
Ya know, I'm getting quite concerned, this random FFB thunk has been happening from launch of the DD bases but with the v352 drivers it's happening far more frequently, just did about 45 minutes on AC and ACC and it happened 5 times, two of which within ten seconds of each other while parked on the track with wheel centred and not touching it, jolt, jolt.
It's been the best part of a year now and not only has this not been mentioned by Fanatec that I've seen, maybe I've missed it, that they are working on fixing this it's actually gotten worse, I'm seriously starting to get doubts about my purchase now.
Please guys, can you acknowledge this issue and fix it soon.
They haven't worked out how to data log yet.... so............................ Who knows when it'll be fixed - maybe when they learn to data log 🙄
Didn't you read the last posts? They have acknowledged the issue already and are searching for a fix.
Could you please try running with the default screen which shows the Fanatec logo and compare if Jolts reduce or disappear?
Hello Everyone
On the first page is a new driver package version 356.
Changes:
Sorry no other changes regarding the Firmware yet, we are still working on them. I'll create a new discussion as soon as there are more significant improvements.
hi marcel,
The v356 is only for podium wheel base or then he solve V2.5 issue ?
thanks :)
So can we use this driver 356 with CSL elite(ps4) or not? Because the 347 driver thread is closed.
Hi Marcel, funny you mentioned this as tonight I played AC with the default screen and didn't get a single jolt. Then when in the pits I change the display to the one I mentioned in my previous post and I got a jolt on the second corner of my first lap. I then changed the screen back to the default one and guess what, no more jolts for the rest of the evening.
Nice!!! I'm using a DD2, PBME, Podium Hub and Indeed I too can confirm this... I mentioned this a few post up the page but I couldn't be 100% sure of this until last Night... For Me with the "Fanatec" Logo displayed on wheel base the Jolts seem to be Gone and if Not 100% Gone they are Drastically reduced to the point where I'm struggling to Feel if its still happening or Not <-- but that's the point where intended Subtle Game FFB spikes and Jolts become blurred its all In Our head and you end up looking for Ghost/Issues that are No longer present or a issue.
We just Need more to test this and post their findings and the Issue can be solved.
My testing Method is Gt3 Porsche, AMG Mercedes--> Race Room, ACC, AC and I test on same track Zandvoort in all 3 Games... Even if the Track Bump, Curb Modeling is Slightly different the Wheel is always being moved/ turned the same way so the wheel cornering loads and straight line behavior is going to be basically the same so it should show the same Issues in All 3 games if a wheel, Dr/Fw issue is present.
Fanatec Logo on base = No jolts or very Reduced...Note you must pay close attention so that you dont confuse Subtle FFB Spikes for Jolts... Further testing Needed.
Driver, Motor temp, FFB Graph screen on Base = Guaranteed Noticable FFB jolts.
For me it doesn't matter which screen i'm on. Tried them all. I never use other screens and i got so strong jolts sometimes it scared the shit out of me.
What Dr/Fw did you test on???
Have you tried the New Dr 356 yet???
They just said there's no firmware changes and that they're still looking into it. Why would you expect it to be different in v356?
What Kevin said. And yes it's the same with 356 anyway.
I like how well you guys don't support product. I can't believe that know one from the factory even respond or answer my question.
There is very little info on this so, why would a buy a DD wheel. Guys I can understand your frustration. Please can anyone give some feedback with the v2.5 wheel base with the software. I have read nothink postive so far. Can someone shed a little light on this.
Thanks