I, seized by desperation, am trying them all …. now I'm using the new beta 448 driver but I have the impression that it doesn't change anything, in fact maybe it got worse!!
A driver does not change FFB, only a Firmware is doing that and the Firmware for the GT DD included in 448 does not change the FFB code at all - not to the better and not to the worse.
But as I explained several times now... There wont be a "magic" new Firmware which can improve the FFB in GT7. Only a game patch can do that magic.
Got GT7 for christmas and been trying to optimize for my setup, having some trouble so any help would be appreciated. I have the csl DD pro base and formula v2 wheel with podium paddle module installed. I have the paddles configured with clutch levers as throttle and brake due to limited leg movement, middle (main) paddles not in use, and the top paddles as my actual shift paddles. It needs to be this way for spacing of the paddles as I'm using the large fanatec carbon GT shift paddles on the clutch levers for max surface area for my throttle/brake. The issue is by default the middle paddles are what's set to shift in GT7, so I need to remap shift to the top paddles if I want to drive manual. I've done this with anything on pc no problem, and other racing games on playstation as well. In GT7 though, the profiles seem to be tied to the wheelbases?? If I select fanatec podium, I see the various mappable buttons, and set the shift to top paddles, but it doesn't do anything in game. Is this because I have the csl dd pro base? Is there any way to fix this where I have the correct wheelbase AND wheel profiles selected, with custom mappings set and usable? Seems soo ridiculous that it's this hard on one of the biggest racing franchises out there!
That's due to the limitation of how GT7 handles Steering Wheels as it's indeed bound to a specific profile for a Base, not for a Wheel.
So you have no Chance to remap the shift paddles to the top ones with the current limited steering wheel implementation until the game developer changes this.
Yeah I'd rather find a "non-invasive" solution, but thanks for the suggestion! Another thing I thought about was getting some custom paddles cut. They're arranged the way they are because this is what worked best with the options that came in the box, but a long/tall paddle with mounting holes at bottom could slot in and extend up to where the current top paddle is.
Not necessarily a fix but a hack. The FFB in game is almost non existent and the closest I’ve gotten it to a sim is Max Torque on 3, Steering Sensitivity 1.
However, I decided to attach my buttkicker to my sim rig and it ABSOLUTELY added a lot more realism and engine feel to the DD2 wheel and in game experience.
Definitely not the most economical fix to force feedback but I actually like the game a whole lot more. Stopped playing as soon as Maurice gave the order back in May but game is a lot more drivable now in 2023.
Incase you were wondering what a “buttkicker” is, here you go :
Hi, also got a gamer plus before christmas and I am still not sure if I like it or not. What are your setting on the buttkicker amp?
It surely gives more sensation but there is also a constant vibration that seems to come from the wind sound effect, that gets more pronounced with speed. Maybe because of that wind noise, I don't perceive other feedback other than the motor at low RPM. I don't feel feeback from the buttkicker when going on curbs, for exemple.
Like you said, it is expensive and not sure if it is worth the money againts getting the boost kit (I don't have it) or just selling everything and getting a lesser wheel with more feedback like the T300 or Logitech G923,
I bought a G923 and installed it on my older wheel stand to try it out. I was then able to switch back quickly to the DD Pro which is on my current wheel stand.
I am gladly suprise to say that I prefer the G923. It is simply more fun for me to use.
The G923 is a lot weaker overall but it give so much more feedback... going back to the DD Pro, it's like I had nothing in my hands anymore (my FFB settings are 3-1 in GT for the DD Pro, 5-1 for the G923).
With the G923 my wheel stand feels like I still have a buttkicker effects (really light though) because I can feel some light vibration transfering to the pedals.
It is evident to me that the DD Pro was not designed for Gran Turismo, even though it has the branding.
So the fact that I mostly play Gran Turismo 7 and not even competively, it just doesn't make sense for me to keep my Fanatec gear that cost me 3 times the price of the G923. Bad judgment call on my part I guess... Fanatec is for serious sim racer.
Regarding selling your wheel, you should definitely get the boost kit before you think of selling. if you still aren't satisfied, you can always sell. I also suggest maybe you might want to go up on the torque of your direct wheel drive and not a more expensive belt wheel drive.
Man, I don't fault you at all. I had the GT DD Pro also and while it's fantastic, it gave me this feeling of "There is more to this". I just decided to make the huge call and go all out on a Podium DD2.
Hey not sure if you've found a solution. I was having the same issues and I found that if I turn my wheel on before the ps5 it works. Don't forget to calibrate your pedals in game. Hope this helps
Why are you always using so low FFB? Here again just 3.6Nm... Wouldnt it make more sense for you to buy a 5Nm CSL DD / GT DD PRO when you never use more than 5Nm in all your settings? 😅
Dont understand why someone is using a Podium DD with just less than 4Nm... Makes no Sense...?!🤔
what are you after then? is this an emotional response to what others do with their time and money? what's the point of 1000hp car when most of the cars in GT7 are Road Cars?
what's the point of having the ability of buying racing slicks when they don't exist for most road cars? what's the point of this game even?
do you have any follow through with your thought process? no you don't... so what's the point of you even?
you see.... you're the type of person that's probably of the mindset an auto mechanic is enough to have a racing team... no engineers required... that's too much money for the budget...
and yet you can find research papers from PhD level mechanical engineers who have worked in formula 1... having gotten their PhD BECAUSE they worked in formula 1...
but then what's the point?? people spending too much money only to have road cars with formula 1 technologies in them...
okok, I see that I dont get you convinced to use the full potential of your hardware ;)
As FFB is highly subjective and a very personal thing for everyone: then be happy with the 3.6Nm when thats enough for you :)
But still I highly recommend to everyone with a Podium Base to use (or at least try) more force for better enjoyment and more immersiveness of your expensive device :)
and you just assume that i haven't .... dude... what gives you the right to assume you know what people have or haven't tried? and now you try to sell this bs about immersion from forces that don't exist in road cars... yes my expensive device...
i can go all day man... what's the point of the aerospace industry coming up with the whole 'control' by wire systems going as far back as the 70's ... electrical... only to have shift by wire show up in the past decade and a half? and now brake by wire systems... but only for parking brakes currently... unless you're in an EV vehicle... what's the point?
Comments
Yes that's normal, I also play the game with the gamepad atm.
I, seized by desperation, am trying them all …. now I'm using the new beta 448 driver but I have the impression that it doesn't change anything, in fact maybe it got worse!!
A driver does not change FFB, only a Firmware is doing that and the Firmware for the GT DD included in 448 does not change the FFB code at all - not to the better and not to the worse.
But as I explained several times now... There wont be a "magic" new Firmware which can improve the FFB in GT7. Only a game patch can do that magic.
forgive me maurice, after installing the beta 448 driver, once started, he found the wheel and motor firmware update!! done both!
Hello everyone,
I can highly recommend the DD Pro settings provided by PirovacBoy on GTPlanet. With them GT7 is really fun to drive.
For 8NM Boost Kit
SEN: AUTO
FFB: 100
FFS: PEAK
NDP: 30
NFR: 10
NIN: 2
INT: 1
FEI: 100
FOR: 100
SPR: 100
DPR: 100
GT7 in Game Settings:
Force Feedback Max Torque: 5
Force Feedback Sensitivity: 1
Hey all. Just wanted to ask what kind of wheels you use cos max torque 5 and FFB 100 feels too hard for me and i have fanatecs WRC wheel.
Got GT7 for christmas and been trying to optimize for my setup, having some trouble so any help would be appreciated. I have the csl DD pro base and formula v2 wheel with podium paddle module installed. I have the paddles configured with clutch levers as throttle and brake due to limited leg movement, middle (main) paddles not in use, and the top paddles as my actual shift paddles. It needs to be this way for spacing of the paddles as I'm using the large fanatec carbon GT shift paddles on the clutch levers for max surface area for my throttle/brake. The issue is by default the middle paddles are what's set to shift in GT7, so I need to remap shift to the top paddles if I want to drive manual. I've done this with anything on pc no problem, and other racing games on playstation as well. In GT7 though, the profiles seem to be tied to the wheelbases?? If I select fanatec podium, I see the various mappable buttons, and set the shift to top paddles, but it doesn't do anything in game. Is this because I have the csl dd pro base? Is there any way to fix this where I have the correct wheelbase AND wheel profiles selected, with custom mappings set and usable? Seems soo ridiculous that it's this hard on one of the biggest racing franchises out there!
That's due to the limitation of how GT7 handles Steering Wheels as it's indeed bound to a specific profile for a Base, not for a Wheel.
So you have no Chance to remap the shift paddles to the top ones with the current limited steering wheel implementation until the game developer changes this.
Can you show a picture of exactly how you configured the paddles? 🙂
Thanks! 🙂
From what I can see the only chance is to swap the locations of the micro switches between the middle and top shifter.
But don't do it if you're not sure you won't damage them.
Yeah I'd rather find a "non-invasive" solution, but thanks for the suggestion! Another thing I thought about was getting some custom paddles cut. They're arranged the way they are because this is what worked best with the options that came in the box, but a long/tall paddle with mounting holes at bottom could slot in and extend up to where the current top paddle is.
It will be interesting to see the custom paddles if you decide to make them!👍
FFB “FIX” !!!!
Not necessarily a fix but a hack. The FFB in game is almost non existent and the closest I’ve gotten it to a sim is Max Torque on 3, Steering Sensitivity 1.
However, I decided to attach my buttkicker to my sim rig and it ABSOLUTELY added a lot more realism and engine feel to the DD2 wheel and in game experience.
Definitely not the most economical fix to force feedback but I actually like the game a whole lot more. Stopped playing as soon as Maurice gave the order back in May but game is a lot more drivable now in 2023.
Incase you were wondering what a “buttkicker” is, here you go :
Hi, also got a gamer plus before christmas and I am still not sure if I like it or not. What are your setting on the buttkicker amp?
It surely gives more sensation but there is also a constant vibration that seems to come from the wind sound effect, that gets more pronounced with speed. Maybe because of that wind noise, I don't perceive other feedback other than the motor at low RPM. I don't feel feeback from the buttkicker when going on curbs, for exemple.
Like you said, it is expensive and not sure if it is worth the money againts getting the boost kit (I don't have it) or just selling everything and getting a lesser wheel with more feedback like the T300 or Logitech G923,
From 280 to 350 mm
Dont have a problem with any of them.
Maybe you need to change your position relative to your wheel.
Maybe you need some more spinach ....
And its no crime to lower you FFB a bit.
I bought a G923 and installed it on my older wheel stand to try it out. I was then able to switch back quickly to the DD Pro which is on my current wheel stand.
I am gladly suprise to say that I prefer the G923. It is simply more fun for me to use.
The G923 is a lot weaker overall but it give so much more feedback... going back to the DD Pro, it's like I had nothing in my hands anymore (my FFB settings are 3-1 in GT for the DD Pro, 5-1 for the G923).
With the G923 my wheel stand feels like I still have a buttkicker effects (really light though) because I can feel some light vibration transfering to the pedals.
It is evident to me that the DD Pro was not designed for Gran Turismo, even though it has the branding.
So the fact that I mostly play Gran Turismo 7 and not even competively, it just doesn't make sense for me to keep my Fanatec gear that cost me 3 times the price of the G923. Bad judgment call on my part I guess... Fanatec is for serious sim racer.
Hey, I think the problem might be the RCA cables you are using. When it comes to amplifies, Cables Matter and you might want to get a high end cable if you want to get the best out of it. I personally use Mogami cables, this one in particular https://www.amazon.com/Mogami-GOLD-3-5-2RCA-06-Y-Adapter-Connectors/dp/B01LY815WB/ref=sr_1_11?crid=6BDXDNMMXJXA&keywords=mogami+rca+cable&qid=1673776514&sprefix=mogami+rca+cable+%2Caps%2C180&sr=8-11&ufe=app_do%3Aamzn1.fos.006c50ae-5d4c-4777-9bc0-4513d670b6bc . You can also try BlueJeans cables, which are arguable the best cables for audiophile https://www.amazon.com/LC-1-Stereo-Audio-Cables-foot/dp/B00OJLNEOU/ref=sr_1_3?crid=3DRQL4FB23IX&keywords=blue%2Bjeans%2Brca%2Bcable&qid=1673776582&sprefix=blue%2Bjeans%2Brca%2Bcable%2Caps%2C201&sr=8-3&th=1. Make sure to check which connections you have if you want to connect RCA to RCA or RCA to Headphone . Lastly, use a HDMI extractor or a DAC instead of plugging it directly to your TV or PC. Hope this helps !
Regarding selling your wheel, you should definitely get the boost kit before you think of selling. if you still aren't satisfied, you can always sell. I also suggest maybe you might want to go up on the torque of your direct wheel drive and not a more expensive belt wheel drive.
Man, I don't fault you at all. I had the GT DD Pro also and while it's fantastic, it gave me this feeling of "There is more to this". I just decided to make the huge call and go all out on a Podium DD2.
Hey not sure if you've found a solution. I was having the same issues and I found that if I turn my wheel on before the ps5 it works. Don't forget to calibrate your pedals in game. Hope this helps
Podium Racing Wheel F1 (with torque key applied) also in the Native PS5/PS4 mode... not Compatibility mode
Tuning Menu Settings:
In-Game Settings:
Base/Motor firmwares:
Main:
FW: v3.0.0
HW: v3
Motor:
FW: v3.0.0
HW: v3
ACV: v3
Why are you always using so low FFB? Here again just 3.6Nm... Wouldnt it make more sense for you to buy a 5Nm CSL DD / GT DD PRO when you never use more than 5Nm in all your settings? 😅
Dont understand why someone is using a Podium DD with just less than 4Nm... Makes no Sense...?!🤔
because that's my prerogative
do you also write this comment on every yt sim racing channel displaying either the podium 1/2?
When they use less than 4Nm of force with a Podium DD then yes.
what makes no sense is seeing people with a fanatec DD wheel that oscillates the ms they remove their hands from the wheel...
but then that's their prerogative
what are you after then? is this an emotional response to what others do with their time and money? what's the point of 1000hp car when most of the cars in GT7 are Road Cars?
what's the point of having the ability of buying racing slicks when they don't exist for most road cars? what's the point of this game even?
do you have any follow through with your thought process? no you don't... so what's the point of you even?
you see.... you're the type of person that's probably of the mindset an auto mechanic is enough to have a racing team... no engineers required... that's too much money for the budget...
and yet you can find research papers from PhD level mechanical engineers who have worked in formula 1... having gotten their PhD BECAUSE they worked in formula 1...
but then what's the point?? people spending too much money only to have road cars with formula 1 technologies in them...
okok, I see that I dont get you convinced to use the full potential of your hardware ;)
As FFB is highly subjective and a very personal thing for everyone: then be happy with the 3.6Nm when thats enough for you :)
But still I highly recommend to everyone with a Podium Base to use (or at least try) more force for better enjoyment and more immersiveness of your expensive device :)
and you just assume that i haven't .... dude... what gives you the right to assume you know what people have or haven't tried? and now you try to sell this bs about immersion from forces that don't exist in road cars... yes my expensive device...
i can go all day man... what's the point of the aerospace industry coming up with the whole 'control' by wire systems going as far back as the 70's ... electrical... only to have shift by wire show up in the past decade and a half? and now brake by wire systems... but only for parking brakes currently... unless you're in an EV vehicle... what's the point?
what's your point?