Fanatec Beta Driver V328 for CSL and CSW Bases (all wheels) - Release Candidate!

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  • edited March 5
    By the same token, on the CSL Elite P1 with Xbox One X, the lights test fine, but are not part of Forza Motorsport 7.  Is this the game, or have I done something wrong in running V328?  And, any way to get away from the "notching" feeling toward the center.  Mine feels as though parts are running together. I would really like to see suggested wheel and in-game settings for this wheel/game combination.
    BTW - My CSL Loadcell pedals had an issue with the accelerator suddenly not working, and am very pleased to say after a couple emails to Fanatec Support, I was sent a new electronic module which quickly solved the problem.
    Can you describe the "nodgy" feel a bit better please.
    Every game?
    Specific situations?
    How does it feel if you describe it in more detail?
    please add the exact version of your firmware and motor driver.
    "Notchy" as in slight bump, bump, bump, like hardware perhaps trying to find a "cog" in which to fit, but not quite doing it going one direction then going back in the other direction.  Not an oscillation (which I've had before but not with this driver) swinging back and forth. Running 328 and FW 629 in Forza Motorsport 7.  I have DRI OFF, BTW.
    I have made a very similar observation since updating to 328 with my CSL Elite WB. When the wheel base is turned off it feels smooth als always, but when i turn it on it feels rough, almost like a Logitech or similar gear driven wheel where you can feel the teeth engaging. Drift mode ist off.
  • edited March 5
    Drift mode is still broken on Xbox. Drift mode 1 feels like what drift mode 8 would feel like if it existed. If I turn the wheel one way fast and let go the wheel; it will oscillate (it will keep banging lock left to right until I stop it). Drift mode 2 and higher the wheel just immediately occilates lock to lock. It can't be stopped until drift mode is turned to either 1 or off. This is very frustrating with dirt rally 2's terrible ffb I need some help with drift mode to lighten the wheel to make my inputs faster because ffb is terrible. Please fix in next update. Wheel Base Model: Clubsport V2 PC Driver: 328, Base Firmware: 627 Steering Wheel Model: universal hub OS: Xbox one X
    Weird, when I do the same it's not close to oscillating even on drift mode 5, could you try to flash to an older FW, try it there and then back to the new one again? I did try that outside of a game, you are sure the oscillations are not coming from the game?
    It happens in game even in the menus but on the Xbox home screen it doesn't. I'll try and go back to 311 I think that one worked fine. I'm actually not sure how to due older firmware but I'll look up how. Edit: Happens every game tried, Forza 7, dirt rally, dirt rally 2.0. It works fine on pc.
  • edited March 5
    Hey guys,

    Wheel Base Model (product ID): CSW V1
    Steering Wheel Model (product ID): Clubsport Formula V2
    Driver Version: PC 328
    Base FW Version: 626
    Wheel FW Version: 22
    OS: Win10

    I know that the CSW V1 ist not officially supported for the Formula V2 Rim. I am waiting for the DD1, so i ordered the V2 anyway.

    Problem:
    The V2 didnt get recognised by my system at first and the base was stuck in a bootloop. I had installed the v327 beta at that time. That surprised me, because i had the Limited Edition F1 2018 aswell without any problems on the same Base.  I did a complete new installion of the Fanatec driver and installed v328. Then i installed the latest Firmware WB FW:626. Put the Wheel back on and it got recognized. After upgrading the Wheel firmware SW19 to 22, the wheel worked fine. The only thing that didnt work, was the flaglights with driver v328 with the LED test.
    After about 1h of driving in iRacing the wheel suddenly lost connection mid-session and wouldnt be recognized anymore.
    I reinstalled the v327 beta driver and it worked again. Then the next day it would again not get recognized. After installing v328 everything works fine again. But for how long?

    Overview:
    WB ???, Driver 327 beta: not recognized
    WB 626, v328 SW19 ->SW22: recognized and working for about 1h
    WB 626, v327, SW22: recognized and working - next day-> not recognized
    WB 626, v328, SW22: recognized and working - for now.

    Is this a known issue with the wheel and compatabillity with the csw v1 or is this possibly an issue with the wheel itself?
    What bugs me is, that the LE F2108 worked fine without any problems and the V2 does not.
  • @everyone that was talking about weird FFB in rFactor2, please try to reproduce this also with other sims, not only iRacing and try to explain it in a bit more detail or maybe film the situation (if possible). We've not made any changes lately that would make sens to cause such notches of the FFB, please also try different DRI or FEI settings if they make a difference. It's weird that it mainly happens with rFactor2 which to me was in the past known for some harsh or spiky effects. Not that in the end it just was a flat spot or something like that.
    I can confirm that the described behavior with rFactor2 happens also with driver v292 and FW 316 on my CSW v2. Spent a lot of time trying to figure it out. Tweaked various FFB settings and workarounds in the config files (that ISI/S397 implemented through time), tried resetting FFB while driving with the provided kb shortcut, paused and resumed while driving (without returning to pits), tried various drift modes off,003, etc., but nothing changes the behavior.

    rFactor2's FFB articulates very well tyre wear, flat spots, changing conditions, etc., through a stint, so it's kind of normal for the FFB to become notchy and spiky while driving longer on the same tyres. To remove that from the equation when testing the FFB, I always start (or restart) the race weekend with the same settings and conditions, so the FFB should be reset and feel similar with every restart.
    In practice, after every race weekend restart, the FFB feels more and more notchy and spiky to a point when you need to increase the FFB smoothing to prevent the harshness of the spikes. (BTW, it's doing this even between the various sessions in a race weekend - practice, qualifying, race, etc.)

    The only way to resolve the default FFB behavior (pattern, smoothness, etc.) is to exit the game, and then start it again.

    After all this testing, my feeling is that something is preserved between the race weekend starts/restarts, maybe stored FFB effects or forces which aren't reset with the particular initialization API used by ISI/S397. Something these devs expect to be reset by default while using that initialization API, which isn't in Fanatec's implementation, etc.
    If you have contacts with S397, please work with them to resolve this issue, as it's very annoying esp. when doing longer race weekends, and cannot relaunch the game between sessions.

    BTW, I don't observe the above behavior in Project Cars 2. The FFB pattern progresses through the stints and the session with tyre wear, changing conditions, etc., but always resolves its default state on session starts - quick race start/restart or between the sessions (practice, qualifying, race).


    Here are the steps to reproduce the issue in rFactor2:
    1. Launch rFactor2.

    2. Choose track - bumpy tracks make it easy to distinguish the issue. Sebring 12h from S397 is laser scanned and very bumpy, but you can choose Bridgehampton from the workshop, too.

    3. Choose car. I use Porsche 911 RSR from the Endurance pack (S397). In game FFB is 0.70, FFB smoothing is 8-12 (due to the issue I am forced to use even 16 or up, after a few racing sessions without game relaunch). For Bridgehampton, EVE F3 is a good choice - with similar FFB settings.

    4. Choose race weekend settings - Default preset which sets static conditions and temps, moderate rubbering, etc. For the Sebring track I use DPi and GTE as filters for the AI, with 29 cars on track. Enable practice, qualifying and race.

    5. Start the race weekend.

    6. In the practice session you can use ctrl-X to accelerate time for 10-15min. for some track rubbering (this is not mandatory though). Then do some laps and remember how the FFB feels.

    7. After 5 or so laps leave the practice session and cancel the race weekend.

    8. After returning to the main game screen repeat steps 4-7, while observing how the FFB feels in each iteration. Normally it should feel the same at every start of the race weekend, as the track conditions, settings, tyres, etc. are at the same initial state every time.
    In practice with every new iteration the FFB will feel more and more harsh, notchy and spiky. BTW, after a few iterations the notchy FFB can be felt even while sitting in the pitbox, in-car and turning the wheel left and right.

    9. After few iterations, just exit the game and repeat steps 1-7 (relaunch the game, etc.). Observe how the FFB feels again. It should be in its normal state, similar to how it was in the beginning (no notchy or spiky feeling at all).

    Wheel Base Model: ClubSport Wheel Base V2 Servo
    Steering Wheel Model: ClubSport Steering Wheel Porsche 918 RSR
    Driver Version: v292
    Base FW Version: 316
    Wheel settings: Sen Aut, FF 100, Sho off, Dri 003, ABS off, Lin off, Dea off, For 100, Spr off, Dpr off
    Driver settings: Rotation 900 deg, Damping 0
    CPU: Intel Core i7-8700K
    RAM: 32GB DDR4
    GPU: Nvidia GTX 1080ti
    OS: Win 7 Pro SP2 (64bit)
    Setup: pedals connected to wheel base, which is connected to an USB3 port on the motherboard
  • In addition to the "notchy" condition, which even with the damper OFF, doesn't solve it, doing that creates oscillation at the center. CSL Elite P1 with Xbox One running 328 and FW 629 on Xbox One X.
    With Forza you can turn the damper off or down below 20 in game and it should resolve the notchy feeling you are referring to

  • In gt sport i like it
  • mine seems to be fine. i love fanatec wheels
  • In addition to the "notchy" condition, which even with the damper OFF, doesn't solve it, doing that creates oscillation at the center. CSL Elite P1 with Xbox One running 328 and FW 629 on Xbox One X.
    With Forza you can turn the damper off or down below 20 in game and it should resolve the notchy feeling you are referring to


    Can you share your in game (Forza7) + Wheel settings ?
  • Made some changes last night, like trying 054 instead of 108 for SEN, to match the in-game 540 rotation, and that seemed to have helped.  Still fiddling.  :) 

  • Good to hear. Fiddle away :)
  • this driver appears on the fanatec website to download already
  • this driver appears on the fanatec website to download already
    yes, we can use it, that file size is different from here download file.
  • For a "rookie" on the Fanatec CSL Elite P1 with the CSL Loadcell pedals, I wish there were suggested settings for FM7 posted.  I don't comprehend the interplay between the wheel settings and in-game.  All trial and error. Years ago I had an earlier Fanatec setup on probably FM4 or FM5, and it was very nice with little tinkering.  LOL!

  • Maybe you're looking at the wrong place Chris? Isn't there a topic for it on the forza forum? If not.. Maybe you can start one there?
  • Hey Chris, I sent you a PM with links and settings.
  • a question. I know that does not fit in here. but i would like to have fanatec sticker like that. how can i get that?
  • Whats the new MPS FNC setting on the wheels with the latest drivers??
  • edited March 9
    Whats the new MPS FNC setting on the wheels with the latest drivers??

    It is for wheels with the Multi Position Switch. It allows you to change between different settings like Constant,Pulse,Encoder or Auto. The developers have to update their games to support the feature.
  • But what is Constant & Pulse?
  • But what is Constant & Pulse?
    Pulse = A short signal sent to the game (as if you are pressing a button each time. Increasing ABS or TC as an example)
    Constant  = Opposite essentially sending a signal all the time. 
  • Had to change back to 292/fw316 in CSW v2, only way to get enough ffb in XOne's Dirt 2.0, 328/627 is ok in other games. like AC, pCars 2 and Forzas, even in Dirt Rally 1, but in Dirt 2.0 even when everything maxes, there's mosty nothing in ffb department.
  • edited March 10
    Understood Fanatec’s policy to change the little switch from “button 8” to “button 33-34” but in this way, we ps4 assetto corsa users, we lost the L2/R2 button on McLaren rim...not a good idea after all :-(
  • hi but on xbox the steering wheel leds do not work ?? playing f1 2018? moreover if I do the test on pc I turn on only those of the changed gear the other small ones of the flags do not light up as ever? thank you
  • hi but on xbox the steering wheel leds do not work ?? playing f1 2018? moreover if I do the test on pc I turn on only those of the changed gear the other small ones of the flags do not light up as ever? thank you
    Xbox does not support leds, displays and a lot of buttons so no, the leds will not work on any Xbox game actually. In the driver test on pc however all the leds, including FlagLEDs, should light up in white. Make sure you are on the latest driver 328 and F1 Wheel Firmware 22.
  • Model: CSL Elite XBox&PC
    McLaren GT3 rim
    Driver: 328
    WB FW: 629
    SW FW: 30

    I am now getting the double up-/downshift error. Will revert to 311 and see if the probelm persists. I never had the problem before. Maybe this is a hardware defect?!
  • edited March 11
    Model: CSL Elite Racing Wheel PS4 (P1 PS4 wheel)
    PC Driver: 328 Beta
    WB Firmware: 630 

    My wheel keeps disconnecting in compatibility mode on Dirt Rally for PS4 when using the tuning settings on the wheel (Warning: controller disconnected). Also I can't navigate the PS4 menus. Starting and quitting the game I have to do in PS4 blue mode. When I want to adjust the cockpit view In VR mode I have to go back to PS4 blue mode, than back tot compatibility mode and hoping the controller input still works. Sometimes the controller disconnects and it will not work again. I have to restart the game. 
  • edited March 13
    Maybe this is a hardware defect?!

    Hardware problem on the McLaren rim? Surely not? Oh wait, that’s very likely.
  • edited March 13
    Maybe this is a hardware defect?!

    Hardware problem on the McLaren rim? Surely not? Oh wait, that’s very likely.
    Well, after reverting completely to the 311 package, I haven't faced the problem for like 2-3 hours driving time now.
    When the issue came up the other night after updating to the 328 package, I had it like 6-7 times in about half an hour...

    Judge for yourself...
  • edited March 13
    New driver/firmware release candidate package (V330) released. 

    Please test the new software and give feedback in the related thread:

    *topic closed*
  • Ayuda por favor.

    Acabamos de instalar el 328 dirver en Windows 10 y actualizamos el firmware en 626 y vemos que al arrancar el volante, la calibración inicial lo hace mucho más lento que antes, toma casi el doble de tiempo que antes, aunque luego funciona bien.

    ¿Es normal este retraso en la calibración inicial?

    Saludos.

    nota: Tengo un CSW_Base V1

    *******************

    Please help.

    We just installed the 328 dirver in Windows 10 and updated the firmware in 626 and we see that when starting the steering wheel, the initial calibration makes it much slower than before, it takes almost twice as long as before, but then it works fine.

    Is this delay in the initial calibration normal?

    Greetings.

    Note: I have a CSW_Base V1
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