Lorrell, wit SPR and DPR at 0, did you still feel vibration in the wheel when standing still and oscillation when driving straight? I believe that's what it shgould cure according to Barry's video.
I haven't tried it yet, I wonder if it would have much effect as I only have those settings with my Formula V2 wheel and not with any of my Xbox One Hub wheels. Should I have those with the Xbox hub as well?
I wonder if I set these with the V2 they styick for the Xbox Hub wheels as well?
I just installed Driver 3.52 and Fanalab 1.23. I was having the sensitivity mismatch, but found that if I start Fanalab after I turn on the DD1 it seems to work.
My issue now is that I cannot find where to change mode (1 game I play requires CSW compatibility mode). I have a DD1 and a Podium R300 with the Podium hub, APM and button cluster. The forums say that I have to use the driver to change mode, but there is no option in the driver to do so.
I use the DD2, Podium Hub with a button cluster pack and a Momo wheel. For me to switch to 2.5 mode I press the top button on the right button cluster and the left button on the left button cluster at the same time.
Well this is all very concerning, I have updated to the latest Driver and FW but only drove ACC for 5 mins. Just haven't had time to play with getting ready for Christmas and watching the Darts!!
However, my new (very expensive) Porsche rim is arriving today and requires the new driver and FW to function correctly. So I've got a choice of using the new driver and FW so I can use my new wheel but could run into problems others have experienced including bricking the base or roll back so the base is safe and not be able to use the new wheel.
It's imperative that we get a response from @Thomas Jackermeier in this thread with an update on these issues and a concrete answer to whether or not we should use this driver and FW.
Forgive my ignorance if this has been mentioned, ive only been following the last 4 - 5 pages.
Could the people with the bricked DD1's tell me if they are on the first batch (dd1 motor) or the second batch (with dd2 motors). i feel this is important information for some of us who are still contemplating the beta driver install.
He delayed shipment of the bases until he authorised release of this software. He'll tell you it's safe and you have nothing to worry about. He will be dressed as Krampus as he does so. 👹🤗
Games: Forza Motorsport 7, Dirt Rally 2.0, Assetto Corsa
The last couple of days, I have tested the new driver and tried all the parameters and new settings. I have changed back to V347 (V664 / V34), then to V353 (V670 / V38) and now back again to V347.
Apart from the sensitivity bug which already recognized by the developer, the new driver feels far worse (indirect and disconnected) in comparison to V347. It is hard to explain but it feels that the vehicles wobble with a delay. In addition the FFB related to the texture of the road is gone.
When I read all the positive feedback here, then the driver is for sure a big step forward, but definitely NOT for Xbox. There is something really strange with this driver. I hope the development team will find the root cause for this issues when using Xbox.
I know for a fact the console port of AC is a pyle, if you're feeling disconnected its probably because you have to adjust the sen for every car individually.
I have to do this in many multi-car sims, well if i drive different cars all the time.
For example on ac, pc2 or dirt rally in cockpit view the rotation of my in game wheel on screen wont match what my hands are doin on the base. this gives off a disconnected feel.
In these titles specifically when using a new car, i have put the car in a practice situation and adjust the sen in base, the in game advance settings or a combination of the 2 to get the rotation to reconcile and get a connected feel.
i have always had to do this regardless of base or firmware. this ability is one reason i switched to fanatec. to have this option so easily accessible on the base and fine tuning with sim settings is invaluable, tedious at times but real asset.
I understand your arguments, but why is the FFB feeling with the previous driver (V347) so much better? At the beginning I also thougth that I just need to find the right settings. But after endless hours of testing I finally went back to V347, as thins driver version feels so much better. As this is completely different to the reports here, I am pretty sure that there is a mayor problem with new driver when using Xbox
im brainstorming to help you come up with solutions to your problems or at least to better understand them
simply put, my point is when you deviate from the path of normalcy, like changing settings from the reccomended (sen for example) , it isn't always going to work out for you and may feel disconnected.
If you add that to car hopping in a questionable sim, you exponentially increase the likelihood of running into issues.
Im watching people on twitch with out of control low rotation angles having issues as u describe and then they wonder why the car is out of control. If acc says 1080, run 1080, if gt sport says auto, run auto and if pc2 say 900 run that.
running lower than reccomended sen settings or in game advance settings to manipulate the rotation angle causes problems on any base, any brand ,any system or title ,,,,,,period.
there, now u can have an argument with someone else ,as when i point this out it usually starts an argument.
I used to be so mad that my fiat 500 didn't drive true to life in sims. Having this in mind, if its not a widely used vehicle ,just as in real life nobody cares how your fiat Cincocentenial handles on the sim or in the flesh.
so every car in Fm7, AC or any multi-car or discipline sim is going to have some cars that feel broken.
moral is ,if you are testing stay close to the reccomended settings, have an open mind, dont be scared and limit your expectations to the more widely used titles and then the widely used vehicles with in..
p.s., why and how are people using v347 anyways, i thought this driver/firmware was locked and we were to continue using v346 drivers and associated firmware?
I have started with the recommened setting. The feeling was completely disconnetec so I have started to test different setting without success. So I finally went back to 347.
If you own a Xbox and you compare the V347 and V352 you would "feel" the difference and belive me my friend, the new driver do NOT feel good at all. Based on the reports here in this forum, I am NOT the only one who made this experiance (unfortunately). If the V347 would support the new BME (which I have ordered) I would stick on V347. But this is not an option if I want to use my new Porsche wheel :(
why and how are people using v347 anyways, i thought this driver/firmware was locked at launch of v347 and we were to instructed to continue using v346 drivers and associated firmware?
🤦♂️, you and the 2 other people who still play xbox, AC and use the Cincocentenial need to back trace all your steps and settings and find the correct update sequence.
you 3 have had to of missed something, go back and see what barry says?
I did followed exactly the steps as described (2 times).
Did you tested the new driver on Xbox? If NOT I think all your comments (not arguments) do not really help us / me. I have tested the new driver at Xbox, so I think I can report here what are the issues. If you have NOT tested the new driver on Xbox, please share your opinion with your diary (but not here in the forum).
As said before, I have exactly the same concerns, the V352 is unplayable on Xbox, too much oscillation, no coherent sensations in the steering axis.
Do not come to say that there is a problem of installation or adjustments,
I never had problems with the previous pilots, after several attempts of adjustments by following the prescriptions of fanatec,
always the same concerns. So I put back the V347 to enjoy my games normally.
Has the button sequence changed to get the information displays up on the dd2 wheelbase display. I seem only to be able to get a screen with the software details on but no others
My DD1 was bricked today. It was ordered November 22, 2018 and was a pre-order, so among the first batches shipped I assume.
I was able to install driver v352 from v345 without any problems. Then I opened the Fanatec Wheel Property Page and proceeded to update the Wheelbase firmware to v669, Mot Con 38, ST Wheel 27. That seemed to update without problems as well. When the wheel restarted, the fan turned on full blast, which I had never experienced before. I was able to calibrate the wheel center.
From then on, the wheelbase just freezes up within seconds of turning it on. And this is with or without any connections to the computer or pedals, with and without a wheel attached. The power button won't even turn it off. Sometimes I can make it to the torque key disclaimer, sometimes I'm able to scroll through the tuning menu a bit. It doesn't always freeze at the same point in time, but always less than 30 seconds or so. My computer doesn't detect the wheelbase being connected at any time now, so I can't reflash the firmware to an old version.
My DD1 has worked perfectly for the past year and underwent several driver and firmware updates without a hitch. I hope Fanatec can find a way to help us users with bricked wheelbases. There may not be many of us, but we are here and the loss is devastating.
346 is the most stable for DD’s. Earlier in this thread a dev said if you roll back, go back to 346. 347 had issues with DD’s specifically, but it’s ok for CSW’s.
That’s 3 bricked DD’s so far. I’m lucky mine wasn’t. During motor cal it jerked so violently I pooped myself.
guys what do you think? at the moment i am using the driver V352. and I also have this strange sound ("clonk") when I switch off the base. I am really scared with the current drivers to damage my base, I am considering switching back to V346 which was best for me. How does that work exactly, is it enough to install the driver (V346) and the motor firmware is then patch back or does it have to be done manually. Is the motor firmware part of the Driver V346? what would you recommend to be on the safe side?
Not sure that's where the difference lies as DD1 and DD2 are the same hardware. From what I read it seem to be 3 DD1's from the first batch(es?) made, not the newer ones.
Comments
Yesterday it happens again, in Raceroom by pressing the middle button of the right button box, base switched to 2.5 comp mode,
just for info, still on 352, now back to F1 V2 Rim.
Lorrell, wit SPR and DPR at 0, did you still feel vibration in the wheel when standing still and oscillation when driving straight? I believe that's what it shgould cure according to Barry's video.
I haven't tried it yet, I wonder if it would have much effect as I only have those settings with my Formula V2 wheel and not with any of my Xbox One Hub wheels. Should I have those with the Xbox hub as well?
I wonder if I set these with the V2 they styick for the Xbox Hub wheels as well?
Found that in Fanalab 123 beta thread and it is the solution:
Shane Pitkin December 22
Brian Leavitt22. Dez. 2019
I just installed Driver 3.52 and Fanalab 1.23. I was having the sensitivity mismatch, but found that if I start Fanalab after I turn on the DD1 it seems to work.
My issue now is that I cannot find where to change mode (1 game I play requires CSW compatibility mode). I have a DD1 and a Podium R300 with the Podium hub, APM and button cluster. The forums say that I have to use the driver to change mode, but there is no option in the driver to do so.
I use the DD2, Podium Hub with a button cluster pack and a Momo wheel. For me to switch to 2.5 mode I press the top button on the right button cluster and the left button on the left button cluster at the same time.
Well this is all very concerning, I have updated to the latest Driver and FW but only drove ACC for 5 mins. Just haven't had time to play with getting ready for Christmas and watching the Darts!!
However, my new (very expensive) Porsche rim is arriving today and requires the new driver and FW to function correctly. So I've got a choice of using the new driver and FW so I can use my new wheel but could run into problems others have experienced including bricking the base or roll back so the base is safe and not be able to use the new wheel.
It's imperative that we get a response from @Thomas Jackermeier in this thread with an update on these issues and a concrete answer to whether or not we should use this driver and FW.
Forgive my ignorance if this has been mentioned, ive only been following the last 4 - 5 pages.
Could the people with the bricked DD1's tell me if they are on the first batch (dd1 motor) or the second batch (with dd2 motors). i feel this is important information for some of us who are still contemplating the beta driver install.
kind regards.
there never was - and never will be - a batch of DD1 motors. EVERY DD1 came and come with the DD2 motor.
Strange i could have sworn i read something. Perhaps ive miss read it.
He delayed shipment of the bases until he authorised release of this software. He'll tell you it's safe and you have nothing to worry about. He will be dressed as Krampus as he does so. 👹🤗
😬😄😅😂🤣 he said Krampus. i had Krampus chasing a family on the back of my gr4 on Saturdays gt sport fia race, i think it made me faster? 🤷♂️
Wheelbase: Podium DD1
Wheels: Formula V2, R300 ClubSport
Pedals: CSL Elite with Loadcell Kit
Handbrake: V1.5
Driver: V352 (V669 / V38)
Platform: Xbox One X
Games: Forza Motorsport 7, Dirt Rally 2.0, Assetto Corsa
The last couple of days, I have tested the new driver and tried all the parameters and new settings. I have changed back to V347 (V664 / V34), then to V353 (V670 / V38) and now back again to V347.
Apart from the sensitivity bug which already recognized by the developer, the new driver feels far worse (indirect and disconnected) in comparison to V347. It is hard to explain but it feels that the vehicles wobble with a delay. In addition the FFB related to the texture of the road is gone.
When I read all the positive feedback here, then the driver is for sure a big step forward, but definitely NOT for Xbox. There is something really strange with this driver. I hope the development team will find the root cause for this issues when using Xbox.
are sure its not the games?
I know for a fact the console port of AC is a pyle, if you're feeling disconnected its probably because you have to adjust the sen for every car individually.
I have to do this in many multi-car sims, well if i drive different cars all the time.
For example on ac, pc2 or dirt rally in cockpit view the rotation of my in game wheel on screen wont match what my hands are doin on the base. this gives off a disconnected feel.
In these titles specifically when using a new car, i have put the car in a practice situation and adjust the sen in base, the in game advance settings or a combination of the 2 to get the rotation to reconcile and get a connected feel.
i have always had to do this regardless of base or firmware. this ability is one reason i switched to fanatec. to have this option so easily accessible on the base and fine tuning with sim settings is invaluable, tedious at times but real asset.
I understand your arguments, but why is the FFB feeling with the previous driver (V347) so much better? At the beginning I also thougth that I just need to find the right settings. But after endless hours of testing I finally went back to V347, as thins driver version feels so much better. As this is completely different to the reports here, I am pretty sure that there is a mayor problem with new driver when using Xbox
first off, im not arguing with you.
im brainstorming to help you come up with solutions to your problems or at least to better understand them
simply put, my point is when you deviate from the path of normalcy, like changing settings from the reccomended (sen for example) , it isn't always going to work out for you and may feel disconnected.
If you add that to car hopping in a questionable sim, you exponentially increase the likelihood of running into issues.
Im watching people on twitch with out of control low rotation angles having issues as u describe and then they wonder why the car is out of control. If acc says 1080, run 1080, if gt sport says auto, run auto and if pc2 say 900 run that.
running lower than reccomended sen settings or in game advance settings to manipulate the rotation angle causes problems on any base, any brand ,any system or title ,,,,,,period.
there, now u can have an argument with someone else ,as when i point this out it usually starts an argument.
I used to be so mad that my fiat 500 didn't drive true to life in sims. Having this in mind, if its not a widely used vehicle ,just as in real life nobody cares how your fiat Cincocentenial handles on the sim or in the flesh.
so every car in Fm7, AC or any multi-car or discipline sim is going to have some cars that feel broken.
moral is ,if you are testing stay close to the reccomended settings, have an open mind, dont be scared and limit your expectations to the more widely used titles and then the widely used vehicles with in..
p.s., why and how are people using v347 anyways, i thought this driver/firmware was locked and we were to continue using v346 drivers and associated firmware?
I have started with the recommened setting. The feeling was completely disconnetec so I have started to test different setting without success. So I finally went back to 347.
If you own a Xbox and you compare the V347 and V352 you would "feel" the difference and belive me my friend, the new driver do NOT feel good at all. Based on the reports here in this forum, I am NOT the only one who made this experiance (unfortunately). If the V347 would support the new BME (which I have ordered) I would stick on V347. But this is not an option if I want to use my new Porsche wheel :(
why and how are people using v347 anyways, i thought this driver/firmware was locked at launch of v347 and we were to instructed to continue using v346 drivers and associated firmware?
🤦♂️, you and the 2 other people who still play xbox, AC and use the Cincocentenial need to back trace all your steps and settings and find the correct update sequence.
you 3 have had to of missed something, go back and see what barry says?
I did followed exactly the steps as described (2 times).
Did you tested the new driver on Xbox? If NOT I think all your comments (not arguments) do not really help us / me. I have tested the new driver at Xbox, so I think I can report here what are the issues. If you have NOT tested the new driver on Xbox, please share your opinion with your diary (but not here in the forum).
Has the button sequence changed to get the information displays up on the dd2 wheelbase display. I seem only to be able to get a screen with the software details on but no others
have you tried to adjust the nonlinear inertia settings, this is supposed to add weight to aid in smoothing out oscillation
My DD1 was bricked today. It was ordered November 22, 2018 and was a pre-order, so among the first batches shipped I assume.
I was able to install driver v352 from v345 without any problems. Then I opened the Fanatec Wheel Property Page and proceeded to update the Wheelbase firmware to v669, Mot Con 38, ST Wheel 27. That seemed to update without problems as well. When the wheel restarted, the fan turned on full blast, which I had never experienced before. I was able to calibrate the wheel center.
From then on, the wheelbase just freezes up within seconds of turning it on. And this is with or without any connections to the computer or pedals, with and without a wheel attached. The power button won't even turn it off. Sometimes I can make it to the torque key disclaimer, sometimes I'm able to scroll through the tuning menu a bit. It doesn't always freeze at the same point in time, but always less than 30 seconds or so. My computer doesn't detect the wheelbase being connected at any time now, so I can't reflash the firmware to an old version.
My DD1 has worked perfectly for the past year and underwent several driver and firmware updates without a hitch. I hope Fanatec can find a way to help us users with bricked wheelbases. There may not be many of us, but we are here and the loss is devastating.
I have a new DD2 arriving today so I'm pretty reluctant to install V352 after seeing the really unfortunate luck of some of you guys.
Would you advise going with V345 or V346 for now?
Well, 347 works very fine here, so it's not a huge problem. 😉
346 is the most stable for DD’s. Earlier in this thread a dev said if you roll back, go back to 346. 347 had issues with DD’s specifically, but it’s ok for CSW’s.
That’s 3 bricked DD’s so far. I’m lucky mine wasn’t. During motor cal it jerked so violently I pooped myself.
Thank you!
Hi Marcel
After reinstalling fanalab it works.
guys what do you think? at the moment i am using the driver V352. and I also have this strange sound ("clonk") when I switch off the base. I am really scared with the current drivers to damage my base, I am considering switching back to V346 which was best for me. How does that work exactly, is it enough to install the driver (V346) and the motor firmware is then patch back or does it have to be done manually. Is the motor firmware part of the Driver V346? what would you recommend to be on the safe side?
What do you think, Andreas Thiel. Go back to 346 asap and firmware too. It probably bricked 3 dd's. I suggest Fana to remove the driver aswell.
It seems to only brick DD1's or is there any case of DD2's that I didn't get?
Not sure that's where the difference lies as DD1 and DD2 are the same hardware. From what I read it seem to be 3 DD1's from the first batch(es?) made, not the newer ones.