One major wrong suggested setting (at least for DD1/2, but I guess also for every other Fanatec wheelbase)... do not set DPR value. This ruins the whole FFB entirely. Set this to OFF.
without DPR the Dynamic Damper in FanaLab or native ACC isnt working though. In Game DPR isnt doing anything in most games anyway (including ACC where DPR only controls the Dynamic Damping and the standstill FFB behaviour but its fully deactivated while driving if you dont use Dynamic Damper) so it really doesnt matter if u use DPR at 100 or OFF if you dont use FanaLabs or ACCs native Dynamic Damper..
Well, I just tested it for more than half an hour (the in-game dampening value whatever it does, I let it on default):
The impact of letting the wheelbase value on 100 is huge and messes up the feedback completely, it produces a huge unnatural dampening effect on the wheel. With turning it to OFF, it is ok though.
Just telling what I experienced a few minutes ago with testing these settings.
The damper setting in Fanalab is only for getting rid of some oscillation issues as far as I read about it (hence that threshold only affecting the ffb above a certain speed). If this would have such an impact on the overall FFB feel in the game I certainly will stop using it at all.
As said, when you turn DPR off then you automatically deactivate all Dynamic Damping, both the FanaLab and the native ACC one because these Dynamic Dampers need the DPR to be activated.
And DPR in ACC is just not used by the Game other than in standstill and while driving below 10kmh but it deactivates completely above 10kmh while driving without these Dynamic Damping effects so there is no difference if you use DPR 100 or OFF when you dont use ACC Dynamic Damper or FanaLab Dynamic Damper.
Thanks for your feedback. I realized that Fanalab was running in the background (with threshold 100 and Range/Strength 50) - my mistake. So I checked again with the Fanalab Overlay: This takes effect ABOVE the threshold, not below though -> if Dynamic Dampening is turned on, it messes up FFB severerly (just tested ACC a few rounds with it). If turned on it produces a thick layer of dampening, killing about 60% of the force feedback you actually want to feel. It maybe tuned down if range & strength are reduced -> it still would impair the FFB, just to a smaller degree.
I also could not detect any oscillations on the wheel, even at high speeds on the track, if I turned of the dampening overlay. I remember earlier versions of ACC where this was an issue. With the actual version the dampening overlay is simply not needed.
So: If ever possible, I would NEVER use the damper setting at all. If it needs to be used it is because the physics of the simulation are shit (which is not the case in iRacing and ACC at least :-)). And if it is used anyway it impairs the FFB, no matter what Sim. Which brings me to the conclusion not to use it at all.
(oh, and yes: do not use the dampening overlay of Fanalabs)
You seem to use low FFB or high NDP, NFR or INI as you will get Oscillations without any dynamic Damper enabled in most games, especially in ACC and iRacing. :D At least with a high FFB value combined with low NDP/NFR/INI settings it is unavoidable to get Oscillations when you take you hands off the wheel on a long straight like the one at Monza etc. Dynamic Damping of course kills FFB effects to prevent these Oscillations, but when setup correctly in FanaLab it will only do so within a small range of 15° for example, so really only in the center where you wouldn't feel much anyway (or at least no important FFB details) and not in turns so you actually don't lose FFB details where it matters.
Strange... neither of that. FF is set up to 60 (I would not recommend more anyway together with the DD2, as this produces very high forces in case of crashes which most racers I know do not want). Having some IRL Formula 4 experience, this is by far enough to produce the typical forces you would have on the wheel in regular turns.
I do not use NDP, NFR and NIN at all and interpolation set on 3 (with iRacing and ACC), and I have no issues with oscillations on fast straights (I could show videos to prove that -> letting the hands off the wheel with 250km/h+, ok, maybe not on Sebring, but that is another issue).
I am also more on the competitive side than on casual racing, not alien-like though, still every FFB detail counts - if I am not at least in the top 5% in a given racing series, it is not good enough (for me :-)).
Until then you could just try what I use, DRI-02 and FEI 90 are the only two differences, it is my iRacing settings and I don't know enough to make it perfect but the DRI-02 instead of 01 gives the steering wheel a nice and firmer feeling in the corners, which is kind of lackluster in the recommended settings, I also have FEI set to 90 just cause in iRacing it was better not at 100, especially when you are going over curbs at speed like on Spa in T2.
Would appreciate if anyone else had some other stuff to try and reasoning behind it, same for in game settings as currently just using Fanatec's.
Has it been a long time has someone optimized the values both on the steering wheel and in the game for race-race setup? Or do you have any advice for the cls + and formula v2 steering wheel? thank you
FF 100 / LIN 0 / NDP 30 / NFR 0 / NIN 2 / INT 8 / FEI 70 / FOR 100 / SPR 100 / DPR 40. Maybe I could lower INT and put a little NFR but I am satisfied. I finally found settings that convinced me to forget old driver 346.
I really feel that the setting ranges are wider than with the old drivers (<346), and our own settings are decisive and can make a mess in the feelings if we do not spend enough time there.
Buonasera , scusate io ho un ClubSport Wheel Base V2.5 -Volante ClubSport Formula V2-Pedali ClubSport V3 , ho i settaggi copiati da voi sul volante ,e sul gioco ,presi direttamente su Assetto Corsa Competizione , ma la mia Auto non è STABILE ,e ho molto sovrasterzo , non riesco a spiegarmelo , grazie.
Good evening, sorry I have a ClubSport Wheel Base V2.5 - ClubSport Formula V2 steering wheel - ClubSport V3 pedals, I have the settings copied by you on the steering wheel, and on the game, taken directly on Assetto Corsa Competizione, but my Car is not STABLE, and I have a lot of oversteer, I can't explain it, thanks.
Comments
Anybody have any updated setting for the V2.5 since the latest ACC updates? Or are the suggested settings still what everyone is using? Thanks.
One major wrong suggested setting (at least for DD1/2, but I guess also for every other Fanatec wheelbase)... do not set DPR value. This ruins the whole FFB entirely. Set this to OFF.
without DPR the Dynamic Damper in FanaLab or native ACC isnt working though. In Game DPR isnt doing anything in most games anyway (including ACC where DPR only controls the Dynamic Damping and the standstill FFB behaviour but its fully deactivated while driving if you dont use Dynamic Damper) so it really doesnt matter if u use DPR at 100 or OFF if you dont use FanaLabs or ACCs native Dynamic Damper..
Well, I just tested it for more than half an hour (the in-game dampening value whatever it does, I let it on default):
The impact of letting the wheelbase value on 100 is huge and messes up the feedback completely, it produces a huge unnatural dampening effect on the wheel. With turning it to OFF, it is ok though.
Just telling what I experienced a few minutes ago with testing these settings.
The damper setting in Fanalab is only for getting rid of some oscillation issues as far as I read about it (hence that threshold only affecting the ffb above a certain speed). If this would have such an impact on the overall FFB feel in the game I certainly will stop using it at all.
As said, when you turn DPR off then you automatically deactivate all Dynamic Damping, both the FanaLab and the native ACC one because these Dynamic Dampers need the DPR to be activated.
And DPR in ACC is just not used by the Game other than in standstill and while driving below 10kmh but it deactivates completely above 10kmh while driving without these Dynamic Damping effects so there is no difference if you use DPR 100 or OFF when you dont use ACC Dynamic Damper or FanaLab Dynamic Damper.
Thanks for your feedback. I realized that Fanalab was running in the background (with threshold 100 and Range/Strength 50) - my mistake. So I checked again with the Fanalab Overlay: This takes effect ABOVE the threshold, not below though -> if Dynamic Dampening is turned on, it messes up FFB severerly (just tested ACC a few rounds with it). If turned on it produces a thick layer of dampening, killing about 60% of the force feedback you actually want to feel. It maybe tuned down if range & strength are reduced -> it still would impair the FFB, just to a smaller degree.
I also could not detect any oscillations on the wheel, even at high speeds on the track, if I turned of the dampening overlay. I remember earlier versions of ACC where this was an issue. With the actual version the dampening overlay is simply not needed.
So: If ever possible, I would NEVER use the damper setting at all. If it needs to be used it is because the physics of the simulation are shit (which is not the case in iRacing and ACC at least :-)). And if it is used anyway it impairs the FFB, no matter what Sim. Which brings me to the conclusion not to use it at all.
(oh, and yes: do not use the dampening overlay of Fanalabs)
You seem to use low FFB or high NDP, NFR or INI as you will get Oscillations without any dynamic Damper enabled in most games, especially in ACC and iRacing. :D At least with a high FFB value combined with low NDP/NFR/INI settings it is unavoidable to get Oscillations when you take you hands off the wheel on a long straight like the one at Monza etc. Dynamic Damping of course kills FFB effects to prevent these Oscillations, but when setup correctly in FanaLab it will only do so within a small range of 15° for example, so really only in the center where you wouldn't feel much anyway (or at least no important FFB details) and not in turns so you actually don't lose FFB details where it matters.
Strange... neither of that. FF is set up to 60 (I would not recommend more anyway together with the DD2, as this produces very high forces in case of crashes which most racers I know do not want). Having some IRL Formula 4 experience, this is by far enough to produce the typical forces you would have on the wheel in regular turns.
I do not use NDP, NFR and NIN at all and interpolation set on 3 (with iRacing and ACC), and I have no issues with oscillations on fast straights (I could show videos to prove that -> letting the hands off the wheel with 250km/h+, ok, maybe not on Sebring, but that is another issue).
I am also more on the competitive side than on casual racing, not alien-like though, still every FFB detail counts - if I am not at least in the top 5% in a given racing series, it is not good enough (for me :-)).
Any chance these settings will be edited like the did with i-racing in January?
+1
+2
Until then you could just try what I use, DRI-02 and FEI 90 are the only two differences, it is my iRacing settings and I don't know enough to make it perfect but the DRI-02 instead of 01 gives the steering wheel a nice and firmer feeling in the corners, which is kind of lackluster in the recommended settings, I also have FEI set to 90 just cause in iRacing it was better not at 100, especially when you are going over curbs at speed like on Spa in T2.
Would appreciate if anyone else had some other stuff to try and reasoning behind it, same for in game settings as currently just using Fanatec's.
Thanks!
Tuning Menu Settings:
SEN 900
FF 100
SHO 100
ABS User Preference
DRI -02
FOR 100
SPR 100*
DPR 100*
BRF User Preference
FEI 90
I have no related DRI on my wheel or Fanalab ????
Which wheel base?
DD2
Then you don’t have adrift mode as it is not needed for DD bases.
Thanks for the attention and clarification so quickly.
Has it been a long time has someone optimized the values both on the steering wheel and in the game for race-race setup? Or do you have any advice for the cls + and formula v2 steering wheel? thank you
can someone update post on 1st page to the new DD firmwares?
Just add LIN OFF, NIN OFF and INT 6 - thats it.
thanks
Anyone have descent settings for a CSL Elite 1.1 F1 Setup?
What are those parameters?.
I've updated the steering wheel and those parameters come out
LIN
MIN
INT
My base is CLS ELITE PS4.
TKS
Those are settings only available on Podium DD Bases.
Its Linearity, Natural Inertia and Interpolation settings.
Here my settings with drivers 365 / DD2.
FF 100 / LIN 0 / NDP 30 / NFR 0 / NIN 2 / INT 8 / FEI 70 / FOR 100 / SPR 100 / DPR 40. Maybe I could lower INT and put a little NFR but I am satisfied. I finally found settings that convinced me to forget old driver 346.
I really feel that the setting ranges are wider than with the old drivers (<346), and our own settings are decisive and can make a mess in the feelings if we do not spend enough time there.
Buonasera , scusate io ho un ClubSport Wheel Base V2.5 -Volante ClubSport Formula V2-Pedali ClubSport V3 , ho i settaggi copiati da voi sul volante ,e sul gioco ,presi direttamente su Assetto Corsa Competizione , ma la mia Auto non è STABILE ,e ho molto sovrasterzo , non riesco a spiegarmelo , grazie.
Please post in English only, thanks.
Good evening, sorry I have a ClubSport Wheel Base V2.5 - ClubSport Formula V2 steering wheel - ClubSport V3 pedals, I have the settings copied by you on the steering wheel, and on the game, taken directly on Assetto Corsa Competizione, but my Car is not STABLE, and I have a lot of oversteer, I can't explain it, thanks.
You are not using the recommended Settings at all.
Yes, but if I reduce it to -2, the steering wheel gets tilted.
??? It should give a slightly dampened feeling so the wheel isnt as free spinning anymore to give you more control, nothing more and nothing less.