Could you guys please also tell, if you have done a shifter calibration and if you had to do the center calibration twice after the steering wheel was flashed?
If you have done the base fw, then immediately the steering wheel without shifter calibration you most likely had to do the center calibration twice, if so the TM settings might have NOT been saved and got reset again as the center did.
Podium F1 wheelbase with Porsched GT3 Podium wheel attached
CSQ shifter attached via USB adapter
Step 1) The wheelbase firmware updated first and the Firmware Update tool prompted me to Calibrate the centre position. This seemed to work fine. No prompt to calibrate shifter which I think is correct as it was connected via USB adapter?
Step 2) I think the podium hub itself was updated next, which worked fine but afterwards, the Wheel was prompting me to calibrate it again but the Firmware Update tool screen was wanting to start the PBME update and not prompting for centre calibration. I was able to use the wheel buttons to calibrate centre and then carried on with PBME update without issue.
Then updated two F1 V2 wheels via Firmware Update tool.
If you want to could you please connect the shifter to your base and do the calibration after you flashed the base fw WITH shifter calibration and flash the steering wheel fw again.
This time the TM settings should be restored.
another thing you can try is to update the base fw, do the center calibration, close the firmware manager, open it again and do the steering wheel fw. Again the TM settings should stay as you set them.
Another thing to consider is the issue could be due to EMI. I've had problems with ITM stopping and button interruptions for months now. Been in contact with support and base has been back and shaft and hub has been replaced. Problem persists but is intermittent - sometimes happens constantly and sometimes is fine for hours. I've tried everything, even rebuilt my PC. I started to consider EMI or other signal interference over the last few weeks. Tried keeping my mobile phone away, no difference, tried moving wifi router no difference. Then i re-routed the wheelbase USB cable - it was previously in sheathing with power and HDMI cables for a small monitor, as well as my standalone button box USB (for neatness!). That seemed to help. I've now replaced the USB cable with a longer quality shielded cable with ferrite beads at each end, been using it for several hours now and it has worked perfectly.
What you are saying is really interesting! I really do not think it's a hardware problem. There is nothing loose and I do not use extrem FFB.
I think that somehow at a sudden point, there is a interference and this cause the freeze.
Could it be the DD WQR which is faulty? Because it can also happen that sometime when I turn on the DD1, the Steering Wheel does not boot up. (even if I did not plug the USB Cable).
Hi Marcel - I'm using DD2. Also want to note that the wheelbase, pedal, H shifter signal input were fine on the other hand just the wheel itself was not working. In my other post the additional information is that, when I tried 399 again, I would also see the message of "caution, please update wheel firmware" (something like this) on the wheel display when this issue happens.
I have seen people who mounted their phone on top of a DD1/2 and use it as a dash (since ITM on the base itself causes jolts ;) ) without issues. I have all the cables from my DD2, monitor and pedals running through the same cable router/cover, only the power cables from the monitor and DD2 are in a separate cable router / cover (because it wouldn't fit into one).
Did you ever check the output of your power supply (not recommended to do when you don't have any knowledge by the way) and what comes out of the wall outlet? I have had strange issues with a PC once in my old apartment where i had BSOD's that i couldn't trace to anything hardware related because i replaced basically everything that was in the case... until i opened up the power outlet on the wall and saw that one of the wires wasn't contacted properly and wasn't making contact properly... after rewiring the power outlet never had issues since.
I have my DD1 since May 2020. I did not change anything from my setup. My cables (USB, Power..), all are connected to the same place since I had the Wheel.
I am going to do some testing this afternoon, with different wheels, drivers, cables palcements etc...
So... Driver 380 was not a success... It was doing well, until I tried to change the ITM on the DD, and then the Wheelbase Froze and my Wheel shut down.
I reinstalled the latest driver 399. Honestly I might think it comes from the game (ACC). Is it possible? I mean if there is a problem with the way the telemetry and data goes through the weel, it might cause the freeze.
The only thing that worries me is the fact that when I turn on the DD1, sometimes the Wheel does not boot up... What is the impact of the WQR and is it something easy to replace?
Sorry if this has been asked, trying to keep updated with the thread...
I have a CSWbase v2.5 with v3 pedals connected to the base if I disconnect the pedals just to update, can I reconnect them back to the wheel-base and the updated pedals will keep the update?
I just did another test, 90 minutes driving - no wheel freezes, no loss of ITM. It seems (fingers crossed) that the replacement USB cable has fixed the issue.
No, i only rëinstalled driver 381, and kept the new firmware which was included in driver 399. It is working great now, with the pedals connected to the base. Think i wait for a new stable driver to install.
Not sure what you mean with a hex file, but i had kept driver 381 on my computer, i am always keeping the latest driver on my computer, just in case.
Ok hex file is the Firmware . I did the same as you ,and i was getting the old diver to run . Then i upgrade the firmware which is in real a downgrade to 680 but its not working with RJ12 connection . i ll try now to find a simracer with my configeration in my area to check ,what is wrong or faulty . It worked before updating Driver and firmware . I am absolutely sure dont put both connection on .
In my opinion it must be a bug in the driver and not in the firmware, because when i installed driver 399 with the new firmware the pedals didn't work through the base (which is in my case a dd1) but going back to driver 381 it worked again. like i wrote earlier i have not downgraded the firmware, I am using driver 381 with wheelbase firmware 684, motor firmware 40, steering wheel firmware 5, wireless quick release fimware 6 and pedal firmware 1.31
First off all i was wrong with pedal driver 1.31, actually it was set back to driver 1. However the brakes feld very good.
I installed driver 399 again, but this time i kept the base and the pedals through the base connected with the computer (first time i disconnected them, like you had recommended) then I updated the pedals to version 1.31 and connected them again to the base.
They are now showing up in the Fanatec wheel property page whit the brake force slider and also in Fanalab as it should.
Something strange happened to me today when I downgraded driver from 399 to 381.
I uninstalled 399 drivers, rebooted, and then installed 381 drivers, rebooted again. Then when I turned on the DD2 wheelbase, for the first time, it started to spin clockwise very fast (I guess at max possible speed). It did couple of spins (probably 3-4 rounds) and stopped just before I hit the emergency kill switch. Next time when I powered it on it booted normally. That was a little strange and scary, never happened to me before.
After that I downgraded the firmwares (dd2 base,pbme,podium hub) to the ones in 381 driver. Powered it off and on couple of times, it's all right.
Comments
Could you guys please also tell, if you have done a shifter calibration and if you had to do the center calibration twice after the steering wheel was flashed?
If you have done the base fw, then immediately the steering wheel without shifter calibration you most likely had to do the center calibration twice, if so the TM settings might have NOT been saved and got reset again as the center did.
Step 1) The wheelbase firmware updated first and the Firmware Update tool prompted me to Calibrate the centre position. This seemed to work fine. No prompt to calibrate shifter which I think is correct as it was connected via USB adapter?
Step 2) I think the podium hub itself was updated next, which worked fine but afterwards, the Wheel was prompting me to calibrate it again but the Firmware Update tool screen was wanting to start the PBME update and not prompting for centre calibration. I was able to use the wheel buttons to calibrate centre and then carried on with PBME update without issue.
Then updated two F1 V2 wheels via Firmware Update tool.
The tuning menu settings were not restored.
If you want to could you please connect the shifter to your base and do the calibration after you flashed the base fw WITH shifter calibration and flash the steering wheel fw again.
This time the TM settings should be restored.
another thing you can try is to update the base fw, do the center calibration, close the firmware manager, open it again and do the steering wheel fw. Again the TM settings should stay as you set them.
Another thing to consider is the issue could be due to EMI. I've had problems with ITM stopping and button interruptions for months now. Been in contact with support and base has been back and shaft and hub has been replaced. Problem persists but is intermittent - sometimes happens constantly and sometimes is fine for hours. I've tried everything, even rebuilt my PC. I started to consider EMI or other signal interference over the last few weeks. Tried keeping my mobile phone away, no difference, tried moving wifi router no difference. Then i re-routed the wheelbase USB cable - it was previously in sheathing with power and HDMI cables for a small monitor, as well as my standalone button box USB (for neatness!). That seemed to help. I've now replaced the USB cable with a longer quality shielded cable with ferrite beads at each end, been using it for several hours now and it has worked perfectly.
What you are saying is really interesting! I really do not think it's a hardware problem. There is nothing loose and I do not use extrem FFB.
I think that somehow at a sudden point, there is a interference and this cause the freeze.
Could it be the DD WQR which is faulty? Because it can also happen that sometime when I turn on the DD1, the Steering Wheel does not boot up. (even if I did not plug the USB Cable).
Hi Marcel - I'm using DD2. Also want to note that the wheelbase, pedal, H shifter signal input were fine on the other hand just the wheel itself was not working. In my other post the additional information is that, when I tried 399 again, I would also see the message of "caution, please update wheel firmware" (something like this) on the wheel display when this issue happens.
I have seen people who mounted their phone on top of a DD1/2 and use it as a dash (since ITM on the base itself causes jolts ;) ) without issues. I have all the cables from my DD2, monitor and pedals running through the same cable router/cover, only the power cables from the monitor and DD2 are in a separate cable router / cover (because it wouldn't fit into one).
Did you ever check the output of your power supply (not recommended to do when you don't have any knowledge by the way) and what comes out of the wall outlet? I have had strange issues with a PC once in my old apartment where i had BSOD's that i couldn't trace to anything hardware related because i replaced basically everything that was in the case... until i opened up the power outlet on the wall and saw that one of the wires wasn't contacted properly and wasn't making contact properly... after rewiring the power outlet never had issues since.
I
I have my DD1 since May 2020. I did not change anything from my setup. My cables (USB, Power..), all are connected to the same place since I had the Wheel.
I am going to do some testing this afternoon, with different wheels, drivers, cables palcements etc...
Gonna let you know what's the result :P
So... Driver 380 was not a success... It was doing well, until I tried to change the ITM on the DD, and then the Wheelbase Froze and my Wheel shut down.
I reinstalled the latest driver 399. Honestly I might think it comes from the game (ACC). Is it possible? I mean if there is a problem with the way the telemetry and data goes through the weel, it might cause the freeze.
The only thing that worries me is the fact that when I turn on the DD1, sometimes the Wheel does not boot up... What is the impact of the WQR and is it something easy to replace?
Thanks
no this was my first try to update them, I disconnected the USB-C cable and I got the same error.
Sorry if this has been asked, trying to keep updated with the thread...
I have a CSWbase v2.5 with v3 pedals connected to the base if I disconnect the pedals just to update, can I reconnect them back to the wheel-base and the updated pedals will keep the update?
Thank you :)
Steve
Yes.
Thanks, Maurice :)
I just did another test, 90 minutes driving - no wheel freezes, no loss of ITM. It seems (fingers crossed) that the replacement USB cable has fixed the issue.
Do you have a link where you bought it?
Thanks! :)
with the update I have also realized this. Until the update, it would make a complete turn and stop. this change is normal. thanks!!
i ve same problem . Do you went back to old fimware from 381 and were you get the hex file from ?
No, i only rëinstalled driver 381, and kept the new firmware which was included in driver 399. It is working great now, with the pedals connected to the base. Think i wait for a new stable driver to install.
Not sure what you mean with a hex file, but i had kept driver 381 on my computer, i am always keeping the latest driver on my computer, just in case.
Ok hex file is the Firmware . I did the same as you ,and i was getting the old diver to run . Then i upgrade the firmware which is in real a downgrade to 680 but its not working with RJ12 connection . i ll try now to find a simracer with my configeration in my area to check ,what is wrong or faulty . It worked before updating Driver and firmware . I am absolutely sure dont put both connection on .
Not sure what country you are in so just google AISENS A101-0010
In my opinion it must be a bug in the driver and not in the firmware, because when i installed driver 399 with the new firmware the pedals didn't work through the base (which is in my case a dd1) but going back to driver 381 it worked again. like i wrote earlier i have not downgraded the firmware, I am using driver 381 with wheelbase firmware 684, motor firmware 40, steering wheel firmware 5, wireless quick release fimware 6 and pedal firmware 1.31
What happens when you now reinstall driver 399?
Appreciate! Ordered now on Amazon
First off all i was wrong with pedal driver 1.31, actually it was set back to driver 1. However the brakes feld very good.
I installed driver 399 again, but this time i kept the base and the pedals through the base connected with the computer (first time i disconnected them, like you had recommended) then I updated the pedals to version 1.31 and connected them again to the base.
They are now showing up in the Fanatec wheel property page whit the brake force slider and also in Fanalab as it should.
So all is well again and it's no driver issue. Great.
Has anyone changed the steering wheel turn when turning it on with the new controller? thanks
I have the same problem
Anyone has issue with the vibration in the Formula V2 wheel? When I click the vibrate test button or hit the rev limiter in iRacing, nothing happens.
When reflashing the firmware, it vibrates during the updates so the motors are still working.
What's your SHO setting set to?
Something strange happened to me today when I downgraded driver from 399 to 381.
I uninstalled 399 drivers, rebooted, and then installed 381 drivers, rebooted again. Then when I turned on the DD2 wheelbase, for the first time, it started to spin clockwise very fast (I guess at max possible speed). It did couple of spins (probably 3-4 rounds) and stopped just before I hit the emergency kill switch. Next time when I powered it on it booted normally. That was a little strange and scary, never happened to me before.
After that I downgraded the firmwares (dd2 base,pbme,podium hub) to the ones in 381 driver. Powered it off and on couple of times, it's all right.