You can´t calibrate that if connected to base (I have F1 Podium), set min and set max do not work.
I got it work when connected hadbrake to V3 pedals and pedals with USB direct to PC (it not work at all if pedals connected to base).
Maby at next release you could check why handbrake manual calibration do not work when connected to base.
And hope you attach hall sensor in next version of handbrake, you can get very good quality handbrake with 16-bit hall sensor at 85eur carried to your home.
No point contacting the forum for this. I contacted Cutomer Support about the jolts. They are very helpful, but only suggested trying different FFB settings like the suggested Fanatec settings to eliminate the jolts. They can be eliminated to a point by reducing FFB strength and adding more damper, but this obviously defeats the purpose. They said I could send the my DD1 base back for them to take a look, but stated that the jolts will be fixed in a future update. I didn't raise the fact the LED display doesn't work anymore, but figured this would also be rectified with a future update. Let's hope!
hello, sorry but it is not clear to me .... useless to ask on the forum x that no one will answer .... customer service will give you settings that are not needed to solve .... so? I should keep a product that does not work as should and be silent after what we spend? it shouldn't work that way, at least when it comes to serious business
No, what I'm saying is, you can return the product if it is faulty, but you need to speak with Customer Support. The forum can't do this, as it's just a community to share information, tips etc. My DD1 also has the occasional jolts and the LED screen doesn't work, but I have decided to just wait a little longer to see what update to remedy the situation is. If not, I will return the product as it does not meet the purpose and functionality it was intended to do.
I admire your patience and persistence. This is from release notes back in December 2019 -
"Knock when powering off DD Base, nothing to worry about but we are looking into it.
Some experience random Jolts/Knocks/Thumps while driving which seem not to come from the game, we are looking into it as well and are happy about every report giving detail about settings which influence it and so on."
So they have been looking into it for the best part of two years. The only progress has been to tell us not to use the screens. Time between betas is getting longer and longer. When they do come, rather than fix outstanding issues, they introduce new ones.
I now don't expect these issues will be fixed. They will now have their hapless development team focusing on making the new products ready for market. I pity the poor sods excitedly waiting for their CSL DDs naively thinking they will work properly.
Don't get me wrong, as I'm not happy either. Have you considered sending your DD base back for a refund? I'm still considering it, given the known manufacturing faults. I come on this site to talk to friendly members like yourself for ideas, help, tips etc. Not to talk to the developers, tester etc, as most of them are arrogant, rude and incompetent, as we all know now. I was just suggesting to Christian to talk to Fanatec Support, as they are quite helpful. If they refuse a refund, given the product is flawed, you can take it up with Fair Trading, as they are called in Australia. I'm surprised know one has started a class action against Fanatec for this issue! Yes, my replaced DD1 has jolts and the LED screen doesn't work, so will have to make up my mind what action to take.
I've considered returning it but I'm not sure if that would be viable. I'm not a lawyer but wonder if keeping it for over a year could be deemed as acceptance of the product - warts and all. I also don't have the time or energy to take it up with consumer standards people or with lawyers. I am considering switching away from Fanatec though but unlikely that will be this year due to lack of motivation, if and when I do I will just sell my Fanatec stuff locally - seems like the easiest solution. But in no rush to do that, I don't believe that any of the current solution are without flaws - I'll continue monitoring the market and coming on here for the occasional vent to wind up the apologists - you know who I mean...😁
With,this,firmware I have the new problem, that after starting the base, I have to calibrate the wheel because it’s a few degree to the left. It’s everytime the same.
Somehow I can start the base many times but the angle isn’t added any time. It’s only this few degrees.
I hope you know, what I mean. Driving with a DD1 here.
so you hold it straight and the driver shows 2-3°? And when you go to settings page and click on calibrate wheel center when you physically centered the wheel and then it gets lost after a base update? Then something is wrong with your hardware I guess, maybe the positional sensor is broken.
What I’ve tried yesterday: a few months ago I’ve deleted the motor calibration. Yesterday I did a new motor calibration and since then the problem is gone. Could be….. or could be that itches problem is shown today again.
Correct me if I'm wrong but doesn't fanatec recommend you DON'T use the motor sensor calibration for now? I get very bad notching when I use it on my DD1
Fanatec itself didnt gave out any recommendation, but I am the one who recommends to everyone to at least try without Motor calibration, for almost everyone it feels better without.
There will be a new driver only once the CSL DD is released, most likely wont be named 404 when there already is a driver 405 available (which is basically identical to 402).. most likely will be 406 then...
But the only change of that driver compared to 402 is support for CSL Pedals when used with the USB Adapter. That's it. Not worth to update when you dont use CSL Pedals with USB Adapter.
So today i wanted to jump into a league race only to find out i had to re-enter all my inputs because for some reason it didn't pick up the CSW. but it does pick a "2" version as seen here in this line. This is outright annoying. Same thing in Iracing, have to re-enter al my inputs. Would reeeeeeally love to fix this. MY OCD REALLY doesn't like this. i tried reinstalling the drivers to no avail. Im on windows 11 btw
This annoying thing also means the presets dont work....
Comments
Fanatec Handbrake V1.5 with hall sensor mod.
You can´t calibrate that if connected to base (I have F1 Podium), set min and set max do not work.
I got it work when connected hadbrake to V3 pedals and pedals with USB direct to PC (it not work at all if pedals connected to base).
Maby at next release you could check why handbrake manual calibration do not work when connected to base.
And hope you attach hall sensor in next version of handbrake, you can get very good quality handbrake with 16-bit hall sensor at 85eur carried to your home.
Driver firmware 402
Wheel base: CSLE Elite
i found a problom.
Before automatic firmware update driver , like v381 , if updater default hex file loading failed, the update process will not continue.
But the update process continues under 402 drive. There is no other way except to power off. “Flash Erased” has been shown. It's horrible
Hi,
No point contacting the forum for this. I contacted Cutomer Support about the jolts. They are very helpful, but only suggested trying different FFB settings like the suggested Fanatec settings to eliminate the jolts. They can be eliminated to a point by reducing FFB strength and adding more damper, but this obviously defeats the purpose. They said I could send the my DD1 base back for them to take a look, but stated that the jolts will be fixed in a future update. I didn't raise the fact the LED display doesn't work anymore, but figured this would also be rectified with a future update. Let's hope!
hello, sorry but it is not clear to me .... useless to ask on the forum x that no one will answer .... customer service will give you settings that are not needed to solve .... so? I should keep a product that does not work as should and be silent after what we spend? it shouldn't work that way, at least when it comes to serious business
No, what I'm saying is, you can return the product if it is faulty, but you need to speak with Customer Support. The forum can't do this, as it's just a community to share information, tips etc. My DD1 also has the occasional jolts and the LED screen doesn't work, but I have decided to just wait a little longer to see what update to remedy the situation is. If not, I will return the product as it does not meet the purpose and functionality it was intended to do.
I admire your patience and persistence. This is from release notes back in December 2019 -
So they have been looking into it for the best part of two years. The only progress has been to tell us not to use the screens. Time between betas is getting longer and longer. When they do come, rather than fix outstanding issues, they introduce new ones.
I now don't expect these issues will be fixed. They will now have their hapless development team focusing on making the new products ready for market. I pity the poor sods excitedly waiting for their CSL DDs naively thinking they will work properly.
Don't get me wrong, as I'm not happy either. Have you considered sending your DD base back for a refund? I'm still considering it, given the known manufacturing faults. I come on this site to talk to friendly members like yourself for ideas, help, tips etc. Not to talk to the developers, tester etc, as most of them are arrogant, rude and incompetent, as we all know now. I was just suggesting to Christian to talk to Fanatec Support, as they are quite helpful. If they refuse a refund, given the product is flawed, you can take it up with Fair Trading, as they are called in Australia. I'm surprised know one has started a class action against Fanatec for this issue! Yes, my replaced DD1 has jolts and the LED screen doesn't work, so will have to make up my mind what action to take.
I've considered returning it but I'm not sure if that would be viable. I'm not a lawyer but wonder if keeping it for over a year could be deemed as acceptance of the product - warts and all. I also don't have the time or energy to take it up with consumer standards people or with lawyers. I am considering switching away from Fanatec though but unlikely that will be this year due to lack of motivation, if and when I do I will just sell my Fanatec stuff locally - seems like the easiest solution. But in no rush to do that, I don't believe that any of the current solution are without flaws - I'll continue monitoring the market and coming on here for the occasional vent to wind up the apologists - you know who I mean...😁
This driver has my CSWv2 calibrating in AMS2 to 1080 degrees!! Before this and correctly it only went to 900 degrees! Why?
Because driver 402 has Sensitivity issues on CSL Elite and CSW Bases.
Stay on driver 381 until a new driver is released which fixes the Sensitivity issue.
I rolled back yet 1080 still being shown in AMS2???
You need to downgrade the Firmware as well, not just the driver.
Whats the best way to do that? Do i need to have the rim disconnected?
Everything connected click on the update button and click yes.
Thanks mate, done and back to 900 degrees :)
Do you have any info on my DRI thread i just made?
With,this,firmware I have the new problem, that after starting the base, I have to calibrate the wheel because it’s a few degree to the left. It’s everytime the same.
Somehow I can start the base many times but the angle isn’t added any time. It’s only this few degrees.
I hope you know, what I mean. Driving with a DD1 here.
It's normal that after the base starts it Doesnt end up being straight.
As long as the 0 value in the driver is correct when you physically center the wheel it's fine.
Unfortunately it's 2-3 degrees off.
so you hold it straight and the driver shows 2-3°? And when you go to settings page and click on calibrate wheel center when you physically centered the wheel and then it gets lost after a base update? Then something is wrong with your hardware I guess, maybe the positional sensor is broken.
It gets then lost after a restart of the base.
What I’ve tried yesterday: a few months ago I’ve deleted the motor calibration. Yesterday I did a new motor calibration and since then the problem is gone. Could be….. or could be that itches problem is shown today again.
Correct me if I'm wrong but doesn't fanatec recommend you DON'T use the motor sensor calibration for now? I get very bad notching when I use it on my DD1
Fanatec itself didnt gave out any recommendation, but I am the one who recommends to everyone to at least try without Motor calibration, for almost everyone it feels better without.
Can we have the V404 for testing ?
No.
There will be a new driver only once the CSL DD is released, most likely wont be named 404 when there already is a driver 405 available (which is basically identical to 402).. most likely will be 406 then...
405?
Where can i get the driver?
Download page of the USB Adapter.
But the only change of that driver compared to 402 is support for CSL Pedals when used with the USB Adapter. That's it. Not worth to update when you dont use CSL Pedals with USB Adapter.
Thx Maurice for the Reply
Is this true for all CSW bases? Should anyone with a CSW 2.5 stick with 381 and 680 motor firmware instead of use 402 and 684 motor fw?
Thanks!
So today i wanted to jump into a league race only to find out i had to re-enter all my inputs because for some reason it didn't pick up the CSW. but it does pick a "2" version as seen here in this line. This is outright annoying. Same thing in Iracing, have to re-enter al my inputs. Would reeeeeeally love to fix this. MY OCD REALLY doesn't like this. i tried reinstalling the drivers to no avail. Im on windows 11 btw
This annoying thing also means the presets dont work....
Use a different USB Port.