the strange thing is that some don't have any issue with this new driver, while others can't make it work with the same wheels. 🤔
I just tried the same….unbolted the CSL DD from my Rig (Next level racing GT Track) and was able to calibrate the shifter.
Maybe it has to do with it being a steel rig and not aluminium???
Gary Joyce is Brilliant! I removed my CSL DD from the GT Omega wheelstand. Put it on my lap/knee. Turned on the power and wheel went through the calibration process. I could press P on my Mclaren GT3 v2 wheel and it recognized it. On both old and new Fanatec control panel it registers my H pattern shifts. Went into AMS2 and ran for 10 minutes two different times and cars. It is working! Thanks for figuring out the interference issues. It seems to be the wheelstand and or the mounting underneath.
So we have no problems so far with driver 411 on csl elite wheelbases ? Thanks for answering!
Can you speak to my boss 😀.
Still a bit sketchy once I re-attached to the wheel stand unfortunately. something funny definitely going on with attaching via the bottom the the base (only way with this stand) to Omega GT Stand (at least) where something is interfering with the signal from the shifter to the base. If I put it back into calibrate mode now it will only stay in calibrate mode for so long but works flawlessly when off the stand so this will continue happening every time we upgrade firmware unless we take the base off the stand.
Nils-Eino above is using a different rig and not sure if his base is attached via the bottom or not but its the same issue. At least we have given Fanatec something to go on now.
An update: I switched out the shifter rj12 cable which was the long one that came with the shifter to the shorter one that came with the shifter (It only just reaches) and now I can calibrate with no issues at all when I put the wheel in calibrate mode manually.
So to summarize
Wheel removed from stand with long rj 12 cable it calibrates with no issues.
Wheel on stand with short rj12 cable it also calibrates with no issues but will drop out of calibration when using the long cable
Note: when I first switched the cable the wheel had no idea what gear I was in and would show random gears but after calibration it worked flawlessly.
My base are attached via the buttom with four M6 bolts on a 8020-rig with a Motedis mounting plate of steal.
The short cabel are way to short for my rig, so I have not tried that.
Does Thomas Jackemier check these driver threads. Hope he does and is thinking what to do to improve the software side of Fanatecs customer service.
The products and the staff are top notch but the ongoing issues with every update can't be good for business.
I updated to 411 and had the hang at end "please wait" and couldn't calibrare shifter so I rebooted pc and it all seemed to work on reboot.
It just seems that there is too much complication in supporting so many products with one driver.
What if you try to put rubber washers between the plate and base? 🤔
Won't make much difference unless you also connect it with rubber screws. ;)
thanks for trying, very useful information
which wheel base and steering wheel do you use?
It can't be disabled that easily and its probably better to just fix the bug in the first place if it was really introduced with 410/411. The message is only shown on the BME and not on the base and torque is not actually affected, only the message?
Yes Marcel just the message comes, and you can click away with any button
One with the low torque issue mentioned that his Wireless Quick Release (WQR) firmware version is shown as 0. Is that also the case for others having the issue?
Please check if the QR on the base side sits properly in the shaft and the clamp is tight.
Below in step 5 you can see that it needs to sit well inside the shaft, otherwise it might not have proper connection. In step 6 you can see how the slots of both the clamp and the shaft need to be aligned for proper clamping. If you think it doesn't sit properly you can try the steps below to first loosen the clamp, then push it in further if possible and after that make sure everything is aligned as it should before re-tightening the clamp. If you are unsure you can also send a picture from the angle of step 5, maybe a too big gap is visible there.
cockpit is aluminium but the plate is quite thin and maybe is steel?
So far looks like steel cockpits/plates amplify EMI and affect the shifter calibration but not actually using the shifter.
Thank you Marcel. After inspecting my QR it was not sitting properly and the clamp was not aligned like it is in step 6. I loosened the clamp and reseated the QR and aligned the clamp and retightend. It seem to have worked. Let me test it some more.
or he would need to put rubber/plastic washers also on the screw head side. hm
either way we need to solve the issue on our end as well but ways to workaround until then would be great
Correct- it only appears on the BME OLED. Not the DD1 base.
And no, this issue is older than 410/411. It appeared with the same version in which the BME message was added (399-402?), meaning that this bug is could be even older than that still- it's possible that it was only exposed when the message was added, as if there is some sort of BME reset event, it seems so fast that the user would never see it w/o the torque message.
I first reported it here: Fanatec Driver 402 (before 399) incl. new Firmware Manager for CSL, CSW and Podium WB (all wheels) - Page 19 — Fanatec Forum
At first everyone assumed it was a connectivity problem, but then more and more folks started reporting the same exact issue. At this point it definitely seems software related.
Marcel just wanted to make sure you saw my post with the attached logs. I'm still unable to update my Formula V2. The @ tagging doesn't seem to work.
Also, yes- I don't notice any loss or reduction of torque. Not even for a split second. The only symptom is that the torque message appears, and only on the BME. And again, it's almost always in a corner with some sort of TC/ABS event (so lots of flashing LEDs).
I made a mountingplate of MDF wood to have between the steel plate and the base. I also have plastic washers between the screw and the steel plate. These two things helped, but it does not fix the problem completly.
I can now calibrate on new UI, old UI and but not on the wheel and sometimes when driving the car switches between gear and neutral. So I am sorry to say that this problem also affect using the shifter in a game.
When I complety remove the slutnuts and the screws from the base, I can also calibrate on the wheel and in a game the car don't switch between gear an neutral.
looks well crafted in that short time, thanks for the effort and information. We are now making some tests with ferrite core Rj12 cables to see if they improve signal quality in those scenarios.
Yes, I've recognized and forwarded all the log files you've provided. The dev says they were helpful and he is working on a potential fix. I'll provide you the new updater as soon as it's ready so you can check if its solved for you.
Using shoulder washers would be the way to go otherwise you still risk the screw contacting the plate as it passes through.
Have you tried to mount the shifter to the rig electrically isolated instead of the base?
I'm not affected, but have mounted my shifter with these bumpers to the rig in order to reduce the vibration and noise while shifting. Maybe this helps and should be a lot easier than isolating the base mount....
Problem is, if this would indeed be software related everyone with a BME should have it, myself included. But I don't have this issue...
Thanks for looking into this!
I finally found a workaround that solves the problem for me. I used electrical tape and wraped the slot nuts and the screews where they are going trough the steel plate. Now I have driven 10 laps around Spa with the NSU in RaceRoom and not a single flash of neutral and also the calibration on the wheel works fine.
Looking forward to see what your solution to this is.