Hi Marcel, I've collected logs from 2 different sessions today in which I experienced the different FFB from our previous comments. I have the zip archives with some txt files and an event file but I couldn't understand anything in the txt file. Is there any way send these to you directly along with details on how the FFB felt instead of posting the zips on the public forum?
I'm not sure if it's a hardware or software issue at this point so I'm trying not to submit a support ticket. Thanks.
Hello, I'm using Podium DD1, and I updated it to V442 a month ago.
Yesterday, I unplugged the USB cable and plugged it back in again, and the fan turned 100% for about a second. I've never seen this before, so what's the problem? I took it out again just in case, but it didn't appear, and when I did it a little later, the fan turned 100% again. There is no problem with using it, but it bothers me for no reason.
My typical boot up procedure for DD2 is to wait until pc is started up in windows and then I connect my wheel and pedals via usb and you are correct I’ve noticed in the past week that now the fan turns on 100% for a few seconds and then turns off. I’ve been using 442 since release but this fan on off only started in the past week. Looking forward to 443.
the problem with the fans at 100% is still present in driver 443 rev 3
Is the Quick Release of your GT DD properly inserted into the base shaft? It might have slipped out a tiny bit, interrupting the communication between base and wheel.
If it's not inserted properly or you are not sure, you can loosen the screw of the black clamp, push the QR deeper into the shaft and re-tighten the clamp very well (~15Nm). Make sure the slots of the Shaft are lining up with the slot of the clamp to make sure the clamping works properly.
Thanks for the report, I can reproduce your issue and the McLaren V1 has settings available it should not have. For me the setting CONSTANT works as intended and should work fine in ACC.
I'm using DRIVE HUB + PODIUM DD1 + SHIFTER 1.5V + HANDBRAKE and it turns 100% when I connect to PS5. I was so surprised because I thought it was becoming a brick.
I think i have the same proble with my CSL DD in ACC, expecially during a race, it seems the dumper effect disappear and the wheel became very light...if i play in practice or hotlap seems better, i had the same proble with 439 and 442 driver.
I read more and more cases with this problem, several of my simracing teammates have been affected by this problem and are turning to other manufacturers. Honestly, I will do the same if it happens to me. If fanatec itself, on its support website, recognizes that there are certain clsdd and ddpro bases affected, they should contact those affected and offer a solution, although it has all the appearance of being a design flaw since tightening the screw does not solve the problem.
It would be appreciated if you could comment if you have any information about it from your side.
We must remember that, if we want to install the new qr2, we will have to loosen the screw and we will be doomed to have the problem (perhaps one of the reasons why it is not yet for sale?)
Sorry for the offtopic and thank you very much
Do you change the settings on the wheel or in the driver? Because I found out the driver currently shows it incorrectly which can lead to the wrong mode being activated. When changing the settings on the wheel they work as intended.
If you set it to Constant work with ACC for mapping the individual positions. Constant has the advantage that it should sync the game to the physical position of the MPS when entering a session. On Pulse it will only sync the position after you change it so it can initially be different when going into a session.
What do you mean with "... and when I change my rotation settings" ?
You can write me a PM when clicking on my name and selecting "Message" in the top right.
But I think the log files won't help with FFB as this is not being logged.
Thanks for the info, we've noticed that the fan can run at 100% for ~1second after booting the base up and will have a look. We think that the base firmware might get the temperature info a tiny bit too late and the fan then goes full speed until the correct temperature was received. I was not aware yet that this can also happen when re-plugging USB so I'll try to reproduce it now.
443 rev3 is internal driver? Could not find it.
Do you mean the dynamic damper or the static damper effect?
In case of the static damper effect the game offers I would suggest not using it and rather increase NDP if you wish for more dampening. Or general for feeling the car best and reacting to slides its better to keep static dampening low and only rely on the dynamic dampening which is a very good feature of ACC.
From my information it's not happening if the screw is properly tightened with 15Nm.
The issue happened mainly with earlier CSL DDs which is why we think some might not have been tightened enough but re-tightening them with the mentioned 15Nm while the shaft is inserted all the way should solve the issue. Since it was an issue with earlier units we've added additional measures to make sure they get properly tightened in production. Since then I heard a lot less reports about this problem.
Thanks for the answer Marcel.
But I guess you will agree with me that fanatec should contact those affected to give them a solution, and not wait to have the problem and tell us to tighten it to a certain pressure (previously 10nm then 15nm) when not all of us have a torque wrench in our homes.
thank you i was using both, i'll try to disable the static damper effect in the game, and maybe try to increase NDP to 25...is it too much for acc?
Ok, so I installed the 442 drivers and did the firmware upgrade a few weeks ago. Everything worked fine. But then I had an unrelated windows issue, and had to reinstall windows on a clean drive.
Came back here to grab the 442 download to install the drivers, but see that it is now removed due to the firmware issue. So now I can’t install the drivers that are compatible with my firmware and the Latest Fanalabs.
I don’t want to roll back the firmware of my DD2 if I don’t have to. So, what are my options now? Is there somewhere I can download the correct drivers for my firmware now? Or is 443 just around the corner, and I can just wait a few days for it to be released?
I usually adjust my rotation per car I'm racing, It seems to happen once I adjust my rotation. Im fine waiting for release, I was just offering to help you test it as it seemed like your were looking for people to help.
Do you know any cyclists? They probably got a torque wrench at home. Or just ask a decent bike mechanic for one.
Sure, it shouldn't be needed, but these kind of bolts even on bikes far exceeding the price of the most expensive simracing equipment needs to be tightened after assembly.
Otherwise, grab a hex wrench and hold it with two fingers at the end tip. When it starts bending a little, you should be good. (Bigger bolts can take more torque and their bigger wrenches require more torque to bend.)
And I can't imagine that other manufacturers dont got these kind of "problems". You just don't hear people complaining about it since there are less units sold, and mainly to super enthusiasts who don't mind tightening and fixing stuff.
I'm talking about when I unplugged the USB, plugged it back in, and turned it on! I said it wrong. I'm sorry.
Thank you so much for trying to solve the problem.
Is it a problem with 442V? Is my DD1 the problem?
Hey. I have a DD1, the F1 2021 LE wheel, Clubsport handbrake and Clubsport 7-speed/sequential shifter. Since I upgraded to the firmware in the 441 beta driver I've had one minor issue. The gear shifts on the paddles of my F1 2021 LE wheel will sometimes not be picked up. For instance, today in iRacing I was racing along the back straight of Montreal in the 488 GT3 EVO and I had to shift twice to go from 4th to 5th. Is this something others have experienced?
It's a matter of taste and personal preference, personally I've liked a value between 15 and 20 in ACC and never used the static damper, just the dynamic damper at default settings. I did set it up so the wheel is able to catch a slide on its own and so it can get steered quickly enough when needed. For what I felt the static in-game damper was way too strong and static.
I wrote you a PM with the driver download.
And the jolt is happening in the moment you adjust it or only happening after you've adjusted it? There can be a slight hick-up while adjusting because the game receives a different angle out of a sudden, there can also be one when closing the tuning menu which is normal.
The fan speed ramping up shortly seems to be a side effect of the latest firmware update which came with driver 442. Other than the audible ramp up there seems nothing else getting affected by it.
There's a weird lump while I'm adjusting/recalibrating the wheel, but the jolt happens while I'm racing randomly.
Driver 443 available, please continue in the new discussion below, this one will be closed.