and you just assume that i haven't .... dude... what gives you the right to assume you know what people have or haven't tried? and now you try to sell this bs about immersion from forces that don't exist in road cars... yes my expensive device...
i can go all day man... what's the point of the aerospace industry coming up with the whole 'control' by wire systems going as far back as the 70's ... electrical... only to have shift by wire show up in the past decade and a half? and now brake by wire systems... but only for parking brakes currently... unless you're in an EV vehicle... what's the point?
and you call the plethora of yt videos with ppl with DD wheels and they oscillate once the hands are off and the car is sitting still a better experience...
well... the plethora of yt videos and the game steering wheel lags behind the real person and their wheel... a better experience ...
to me it sounds like you want to make sure others have a bad time
Second to reduce oscillations you need to increase Natural damper and Natural friction. Also Natural inertia in 1 will help the NFR behave smoother.
Oscillations happens pretty much in every sim/game no matter what gear. The thing is that you need to work around with your settings if you want a better experience. From what i saw in your posted settings , you have some sliders all over the place with no logic. I also assume that you didn't read the manual , or you can not understand it. Or maybe i am wrong.
Also you should know that Gt7 has e very odd ffb signal.
In game settings and particular FFB Sensitivity makes Oscillations much worse. Not to mention the Sensitivity in your wheels tuning menu. 360 is good for formula race car but not for a GT3 or a non race car.
Every filter you increase above some values makes the ffb less detailed. But you might need to reach above these "safe" values in Gt7 because of the really odd ffb signal in some cases.
What i try to follow the past 5 years in every sim with Fanatec gear are these:
Always 100% the motor (yes even in Podium with the torque key) and lower in game Volume/Gain/Strength to hit the desirable Nm. Never above 70% to 80% to avoid clipping.
In tuning menu settings: Sensitivity should be Auto (if the game supports it) or a logic value, it depends of the car in most cases.. For example ACC/AC 1080 (or per every car), f1 360/380 etc.
In tuning menu settings: FEI should be as high as possible and in a DD all the way up to 100 because of the added filters (that users can adjust) in comparison with CSL ELITE / CSW V2.5.
In DDs, in tuning menu settings: NDP should not exceed value 50 because of the loss in detail. NFR should also not exceed value 15 for the same reason.In extreme scenarios might need to slightly increase values (to avoid heavy oscillations) but with some detail cost.
In Gran Turismo 7:
Proper in game settings, will help in every aspect . FFB strength should never go above 5 or 6. The lower the better to help with clipping.
Sensitivity should be as low as possible (value 1 for DDs and close enough for low friction wheel bases) to have the biggest/better possible Dynamic range. In case of low torque wheelbases or low ffb strength in game value (1,2,3) could raise value up to 3. When using a wheelbase with much friction "cogging feel" (most TM, old and low budget Logi) should raise up to 5 for double belt drive and up to 8 for cogged drive systems.
If you want try this set up with your Podium gear:
Well I see the full GT7 game is going to get PSVR2 support so that's pretty awesome (except split screen but that's a given). Maybe their focus was on getting that set up and ready for PSVR2 launch and now they can focus on FFB???? One can only hope! 😂
YOU ARE VERY WRONG ABOUT EVERY GAME CAUSING WHEEL OSCILLATIONS!!! 15 years with a Thrustmaster T500RS and not once a time the wheel oscillated of it's own accord in a parked vehicle in game. GT5, Project Cars, Project Cars 2, Assetto Corsa, GT7...
It's also NOT POLITE to suggest that EVERY GAME DEV DOESN'T KNOW HOW TO PROGRAM FFB SIGNALS AND EVERY WHEEL COMPANY DOESN'T KNOW HOW TO SIGNAL PROCESS...
on the topic of 360 sens... it works for EVERY CAR IN THIS GAME!!! the FFB signal tightens up/cleaner and not so nebulous... at the same time every road car ive ever driven in real life is just as sensitive with very little play at top dead center... I NEVER HAVE TO TURN MY WHEEL MUCH ON THE OPEN HIGHWAY. lane changes don't induce large steering angle EVER!! on ramps off ramps DONT INDUCE MUCH STEERING ANGLE EVER!! STAYING IN THE LANE ON A LARGE RADIUS SWEEPING BEND IN THE ROAD DOES NOT INDUCE MUCH STEERING ANGLE EVER!!!
the ridiculousness of how much dead steering angles at anything less than 360 is inane... like your steering ratio is 500:1
as far as i can tell... all the oscillating wheels on youtube are cause by community...
just to spite your settings...
Sens: 360
FFB: 35
FF Scale: Peak
Natural Damper: 40
Natural Friction: 8
Natural Inertia: OFF
FFB Interpolation: 1
FE Intensity: 100 (intensity is mispelled on wheelbase INTENSITIY)
Force Effect Str: 50
Spring Effect Str: OFF
Damper Effect Str: 100
Brake Force: 43
In game Settings
Max Torque: 3
FFB Sensitivity: 10
Not an incident of wheel oscillations with those settings. Parked nor Driving. This IS NOT MOTOGP where speed/death wobbles are very real.
Another setup no oscillations... IDK what was so difficult about finding these settings because it's extremely easy to figure out.
Sens: 360
FFB Str: 76 (the setting when the base 1st says Caution High FFB can be dangerous)
FF Scale: PEAK
Natural Damper: 72
Natural Friction: 18
Natural Inertia: OFF
FFB Interpolation: 1
FE Intensity: 100
FE Strength: 20
Spring Effect Str: OFF
Damper Effect Str: 100
In Game:
Max Torque: 3
FFB Sensitivity: 10
Again... Heavy wheel parked... no oscillating wheel parked or driving... What's so hard about this stuff? that several YT videos show up with oscillating wheels the moment the driver releases the wheel...
Try the Tomahawk X VGT. With that car you WILL get oscillations even with your (special and not recommended) settings when driving above 400kph. With some cars you just cant avoid oscillations.
Also I dont really get your point... Nobody has complained here about oscillations lately as it's no issue for most cars, only some special high speed cars. Everyone just complained about the lack of FFB detail in corners but that's a game issue. So why exactly do you always come up quite aggressively here regarding oscillations when nobody cares about oscillations?
i guarantee even the tomahawk wont oscillate even at 400km/h
you have to forcibly make the wheel oscillate while in motion... which is not the same thing as what i've been saying... the millisecond the user removes their hands from the wheel the thing goes nuts with high frequency oscillations... in SEVERAL YT VIDEOS.... has nothing to do with the wheel being stable by itself and then the user knocks the wheel to start the oscillations...
I've been getting back into GT7 and I've noticed something that has made a huge improvement for me. The 'auto' steering sensitivity in this game is not working correctly on a lot of cars, mostly Gr.3 and up, it works fine for road cars. So I've made two of the same wheel settings and flip it back and forth based on the car I'm driving.
For Gr.3 and up setting the sensitivity at 520 seems to work really well for me. I checked this based on the cockpit view wheel/hands lining up with mine irl. Choose the Gr.3 bmw z4 and use auto and see how incredibly off it is, you have to turn the wheel almost double to make the same movements the game wheel/hands show.
Also, I recently bought a buttkicker and hooked it up to my computer using simhub and connected that to GT7 over the network. It's absolutely incredible how much detail it provides for rumble strips, road oscillations, etc. There is so much detail in the game that we aren't feeling in the wheel. It's not a fix, but it certainly massively improves the experience.
Anyway, those two discoveries have me playing the game again and I'm enjoying it quite a bit.
Interesting, can you explain what you mean by connecting the buttkicker to GT7 over the network? Are you able to use hapticonnect software with GT7 somehow?
This video explains it pretty well. Hapticonnect doesn't support GT7 yet that I know of. Basically you open some ports in windows, hook your buttkicker up to your PC. Simhub detects GT7 once you're on track in game and have both the PC and PS5 running. You can use the simhub sliders and toggles to choose which telemetry you want and how much. It works incredibly well!
It's a game issue that you dont feel anything in corners because the FFB is clipping.
Nothing you or Fanatec can do against this other than writing in the GT7 / Playstation forums so the game devs see the issue and that people are annoyed by it.
BTW, it's not a Fanatec exclusive issue. It's affecting every wheel out there. Logitech users are also complaining in GT Planet forums for example.
You are totally correct this is in game issue, and most of us including myself have realised it by now.. and yet what our "Colleague" is perhaps meaning and personally I would associate myself if that is the case is about the following .."perhaps FANATEC has a better negotiation power with PD then us poor single Customers when trying to convey our requests , perhaps PD will listen more to FANATEC ? " at the very end You must be also feeling angry with PD and regret the decision to distribute a product with a GT badge on it that is the cause of so much frustration amongst your loyal Clients ?
In any case accept my thanking for all your efforts and willingness to respond us.. I wish PD would be more like you to be fair
I understand it's a game problem. I have used the steering wheel with other games, it has potential, it has no problems.
My question is, since the steering wheel has the "Gran Turismo" brand, can't Fanatec directly do something together with Polyphony to try to solve the problems?
I can write here and I'm happy for someone to read, but I understand that I won't solve anything.
But, unfortunately, for the end user, Fanatec (or Logitech) makes a bad impression.
Do you know by fact that behind the doors they dont Talk to PD?!
No you dont. It's pure speculation. And your speculation is not correct. Of course they talk to PD. But Fanatec cant force them to improve the FFB, that's purely up to PD. When PD dont want to improve the FFB because they think the game sells well enough so they dont see a need for improvements, then there is nothing Fanatec (or Logitech) could do against this.
I use a translator and probably struggle to explain my point of view. Maybe I sounded offensive, I didn't mean to be.
Steering wheel is great! it's well made, worth the money, I'd buy it again!
But I try to give an example. I bought this steering wheel because "GT" was written on it.
"Introducing the official Direct Drive Wheel for Gran Turismo®. Combining PlayStation®5 console performance with FANATEC® Direct Drive technology for the smoothest and most dynamic force feedback sensations."
It's like buying a Lotus Exige with Yokohama A048 LTS compound tyres, and the tires lasted me 100km.
The first thing I think is that the tires are not good.
Only then do I start to think that there is something wrong with the chassis, or with the set-up.
I just wanted to share my feelings, and I hope to be of help to others who may not have found the feeling with the system.
Now I know for sure that Fanatec has done everything possible, and will continue to do so, and that unfortunately PD will continue on its (in my opinion incorrect) path.
I apologize again for my English, I hope the message and the calm tone of the discussion are clear ;)
This is it boys and girls. Finally found setting where the game doesn’t clip anymore or shake in a straight. Secret was changing MPS to pulse. Hope it works for you like it did for me. This is for DD2
Comments
and you just assume that i haven't .... dude... what gives you the right to assume you know what people have or haven't tried? and now you try to sell this bs about immersion from forces that don't exist in road cars... yes my expensive device...
i can go all day man... what's the point of the aerospace industry coming up with the whole 'control' by wire systems going as far back as the 70's ... electrical... only to have shift by wire show up in the past decade and a half? and now brake by wire systems... but only for parking brakes currently... unless you're in an EV vehicle... what's the point?
what's your point?
Mate i can understand that you can do whatever you want with your gear and your money. But after looking to your settings you really miss the point.
In here we try to help each other for better experience.
Peace.
and you call the plethora of yt videos with ppl with DD wheels and they oscillate once the hands are off and the car is sitting still a better experience...
well... the plethora of yt videos and the game steering wheel lags behind the real person and their wheel... a better experience ...
to me it sounds like you want to make sure others have a bad time
First of all you need to calm down.
Second to reduce oscillations you need to increase Natural damper and Natural friction. Also Natural inertia in 1 will help the NFR behave smoother.
Oscillations happens pretty much in every sim/game no matter what gear. The thing is that you need to work around with your settings if you want a better experience. From what i saw in your posted settings , you have some sliders all over the place with no logic. I also assume that you didn't read the manual , or you can not understand it. Or maybe i am wrong.
Also you should know that Gt7 has e very odd ffb signal.
In game settings and particular FFB Sensitivity makes Oscillations much worse. Not to mention the Sensitivity in your wheels tuning menu. 360 is good for formula race car but not for a GT3 or a non race car.
Every filter you increase above some values makes the ffb less detailed. But you might need to reach above these "safe" values in Gt7 because of the really odd ffb signal in some cases.
What i try to follow the past 5 years in every sim with Fanatec gear are these:
In Gran Turismo 7:
Proper in game settings, will help in every aspect . FFB strength should never go above 5 or 6. The lower the better to help with clipping.
Sensitivity should be as low as possible (value 1 for DDs and close enough for low friction wheel bases) to have the biggest/better possible Dynamic range. In case of low torque wheelbases or low ffb strength in game value (1,2,3) could raise value up to 3. When using a wheelbase with much friction "cogging feel" (most TM, old and low budget Logi) should raise up to 5 for double belt drive and up to 8 for cogged drive systems.
If you want try this set up with your Podium gear:
Tuning Menu Settings:
SEN : AUTO
FF : 100
FFS : Peak
NDP : 50
NFR : 15
NIN : 1
INT : 2
FEI : 100
FOR : 100
SPR :0
DPR :0
In-Game Settings:
Assist Settings:
Countersteering Assistance: Off
Controller Settings:
Force Feedback Max. Torque: 2 (About 4nm peak) / 3 (About 6nm peak)
Force Feedback Sensitivity: 2 (When FFB strength value 2) / 1 (When FFB strength value 3)
Disclaimer:
I am not perfect nor my suggestions.
I am trying to help you and every Fanatec user that has difficulties with the settings.
I use Fanatec wheelbases since 2017 and i have read almost everything in this forum in these five years.
I believe i understand the manual and the Fanatec's controll panel suggestions
I try to be polite
Peace . . . . .
Well I see the full GT7 game is going to get PSVR2 support so that's pretty awesome (except split screen but that's a given). Maybe their focus was on getting that set up and ready for PSVR2 launch and now they can focus on FFB???? One can only hope! 😂
YOU ARE VERY WRONG ABOUT EVERY GAME CAUSING WHEEL OSCILLATIONS!!! 15 years with a Thrustmaster T500RS and not once a time the wheel oscillated of it's own accord in a parked vehicle in game. GT5, Project Cars, Project Cars 2, Assetto Corsa, GT7...
It's also NOT POLITE to suggest that EVERY GAME DEV DOESN'T KNOW HOW TO PROGRAM FFB SIGNALS AND EVERY WHEEL COMPANY DOESN'T KNOW HOW TO SIGNAL PROCESS...
on the topic of 360 sens... it works for EVERY CAR IN THIS GAME!!! the FFB signal tightens up/cleaner and not so nebulous... at the same time every road car ive ever driven in real life is just as sensitive with very little play at top dead center... I NEVER HAVE TO TURN MY WHEEL MUCH ON THE OPEN HIGHWAY. lane changes don't induce large steering angle EVER!! on ramps off ramps DONT INDUCE MUCH STEERING ANGLE EVER!! STAYING IN THE LANE ON A LARGE RADIUS SWEEPING BEND IN THE ROAD DOES NOT INDUCE MUCH STEERING ANGLE EVER!!!
the ridiculousness of how much dead steering angles at anything less than 360 is inane... like your steering ratio is 500:1
as far as i can tell... all the oscillating wheels on youtube are cause by community...
just to spite your settings...
Sens: 360
FFB: 35
FF Scale: Peak
Natural Damper: 40
Natural Friction: 8
Natural Inertia: OFF
FFB Interpolation: 1
FE Intensity: 100 (intensity is mispelled on wheelbase INTENSITIY)
Force Effect Str: 50
Spring Effect Str: OFF
Damper Effect Str: 100
Brake Force: 43
In game Settings
Max Torque: 3
FFB Sensitivity: 10
Not an incident of wheel oscillations with those settings. Parked nor Driving. This IS NOT MOTOGP where speed/death wobbles are very real.
No wonder that with just 3.5Nm you dont get oscillations..
and i get a very heavy wheel when parked... the point is no oscillations... not the Nm...
OK.
Another setup no oscillations... IDK what was so difficult about finding these settings because it's extremely easy to figure out.
Sens: 360
FFB Str: 76 (the setting when the base 1st says Caution High FFB can be dangerous)
FF Scale: PEAK
Natural Damper: 72
Natural Friction: 18
Natural Inertia: OFF
FFB Interpolation: 1
FE Intensity: 100
FE Strength: 20
Spring Effect Str: OFF
Damper Effect Str: 100
In Game:
Max Torque: 3
FFB Sensitivity: 10
Again... Heavy wheel parked... no oscillating wheel parked or driving... What's so hard about this stuff? that several YT videos show up with oscillating wheels the moment the driver releases the wheel...
Can get upwards 6Nm parked vehicle
Try the Tomahawk X VGT. With that car you WILL get oscillations even with your (special and not recommended) settings when driving above 400kph. With some cars you just cant avoid oscillations.
Also I dont really get your point... Nobody has complained here about oscillations lately as it's no issue for most cars, only some special high speed cars. Everyone just complained about the lack of FFB detail in corners but that's a game issue. So why exactly do you always come up quite aggressively here regarding oscillations when nobody cares about oscillations?
What ever pleases you Robert. Just be polite.
2023 - best settings so far..
Gran Turismo DD Pro 8NM
Tuning Menu Settings:
In-Game Settings:
someone doesn't read these forums... there have been several posts about their DD wheel oscillating
i guarantee even the tomahawk wont oscillate even at 400km/h
you have to forcibly make the wheel oscillate while in motion... which is not the same thing as what i've been saying... the millisecond the user removes their hands from the wheel the thing goes nuts with high frequency oscillations... in SEVERAL YT VIDEOS.... has nothing to do with the wheel being stable by itself and then the user knocks the wheel to start the oscillations...
the tomahawk not oscillating wheel...
Ok Robert you opened our minds. Now stop Spaming
I've been getting back into GT7 and I've noticed something that has made a huge improvement for me. The 'auto' steering sensitivity in this game is not working correctly on a lot of cars, mostly Gr.3 and up, it works fine for road cars. So I've made two of the same wheel settings and flip it back and forth based on the car I'm driving.
For Gr.3 and up setting the sensitivity at 520 seems to work really well for me. I checked this based on the cockpit view wheel/hands lining up with mine irl. Choose the Gr.3 bmw z4 and use auto and see how incredibly off it is, you have to turn the wheel almost double to make the same movements the game wheel/hands show.
Also, I recently bought a buttkicker and hooked it up to my computer using simhub and connected that to GT7 over the network. It's absolutely incredible how much detail it provides for rumble strips, road oscillations, etc. There is so much detail in the game that we aren't feeling in the wheel. It's not a fix, but it certainly massively improves the experience.
Anyway, those two discoveries have me playing the game again and I'm enjoying it quite a bit.
Interesting, can you explain what you mean by connecting the buttkicker to GT7 over the network? Are you able to use hapticonnect software with GT7 somehow?
This video explains it pretty well. Hapticonnect doesn't support GT7 yet that I know of. Basically you open some ports in windows, hook your buttkicker up to your PC. Simhub detects GT7 once you're on track in game and have both the PC and PS5 running. You can use the simhub sliders and toggles to choose which telemetry you want and how much. It works incredibly well!
1 year from the first post, without update.
21 pages.
One game, one official wheel of the game.
I don't want talk about oscillation, i'm not a fan of drag race, for that i use pad...
I'm here for talk with all the people about settings, general settings.
I have always a problem, with Gr.3 problem are special :D
I have 4 setup in my wheel, i have to use all 4 setup for a good feelings. This is not good...
Is not time to talk about serious setup here?
Sharing is important. No official solution from Fanatech, no official solution from Polyphony... c'mon guys, is the official wheel steering of GT7!!!
What exactly do you mean, what's your exact problem?!
No feeling with this wheel. Feeling only with one, old firmware of GT7.
Is normal i have to put SEN 360 for have a good feeling with Gr.3 car?
Why Fanatec don't call Polyphony and try, together, for a solution?
I don't think i'm crazy and the only person in the world with a problem with a 900eu official wheel...
I don't think is normal have 4 setup for play with the same game.
It's a game issue that you dont feel anything in corners because the FFB is clipping.
Nothing you or Fanatec can do against this other than writing in the GT7 / Playstation forums so the game devs see the issue and that people are annoyed by it.
BTW, it's not a Fanatec exclusive issue. It's affecting every wheel out there. Logitech users are also complaining in GT Planet forums for example.
Dear Maurice,
You are totally correct this is in game issue, and most of us including myself have realised it by now.. and yet what our "Colleague" is perhaps meaning and personally I would associate myself if that is the case is about the following .."perhaps FANATEC has a better negotiation power with PD then us poor single Customers when trying to convey our requests , perhaps PD will listen more to FANATEC ? " at the very end You must be also feeling angry with PD and regret the decision to distribute a product with a GT badge on it that is the cause of so much frustration amongst your loyal Clients ?
In any case accept my thanking for all your efforts and willingness to respond us.. I wish PD would be more like you to be fair
I understand it's a game problem. I have used the steering wheel with other games, it has potential, it has no problems.
My question is, since the steering wheel has the "Gran Turismo" brand, can't Fanatec directly do something together with Polyphony to try to solve the problems?
I can write here and I'm happy for someone to read, but I understand that I won't solve anything.
But, unfortunately, for the end user, Fanatec (or Logitech) makes a bad impression.
Why does Fanatec make a bad Impression?
Do you know by fact that behind the doors they dont Talk to PD?!
No you dont. It's pure speculation. And your speculation is not correct. Of course they talk to PD. But Fanatec cant force them to improve the FFB, that's purely up to PD. When PD dont want to improve the FFB because they think the game sells well enough so they dont see a need for improvements, then there is nothing Fanatec (or Logitech) could do against this.
I use a translator and probably struggle to explain my point of view. Maybe I sounded offensive, I didn't mean to be.
Steering wheel is great! it's well made, worth the money, I'd buy it again!
But I try to give an example. I bought this steering wheel because "GT" was written on it.
"Introducing the official Direct Drive Wheel for Gran Turismo®. Combining PlayStation®5 console performance with FANATEC® Direct Drive technology for the smoothest and most dynamic force feedback sensations."
It's like buying a Lotus Exige with Yokohama A048 LTS compound tyres, and the tires lasted me 100km.
The first thing I think is that the tires are not good.
Only then do I start to think that there is something wrong with the chassis, or with the set-up.
I just wanted to share my feelings, and I hope to be of help to others who may not have found the feeling with the system.
Now I know for sure that Fanatec has done everything possible, and will continue to do so, and that unfortunately PD will continue on its (in my opinion incorrect) path.
I apologize again for my English, I hope the message and the calm tone of the discussion are clear ;)
Ciao Emilio
SEN AUTO
FFB 100
PEAK
NDP OFF
NFR 4
NIN OFF
INT OFF
FEI 100
FOR 110
SPR OFF
DPR OFF
In game settings 5 and 1
Prova, funziona...!!!
(Thank's to Abarth_71 from Gtplanet, you change the game!!!)
This is it boys and girls. Finally found setting where the game doesn’t clip anymore or shake in a straight. Secret was changing MPS to pulse. Hope it works for you like it did for me. This is for DD2