Fanatec Beta Driver V352/356 [DD Performance Update] for Podium Bases ONLY (all steering wheels)



  • Keep it up fanatec!

    I'm stil happy with the podium F1.

    IT stil works great!! No problemo here:)

    Looking forward to the new drivers, using now driver 356 and its realy a good step in the right direction and love tot race with it:)


  • That's started happening after 356 update. DD1 PS4 Version on rF2 the car is the M2 CS if that matters, the Rim itsels freezes out, sometimes it happens few mins after a new session on the same place, haven't tested on many other tracks is it related to place on the track or just some run time of the wheel itself. The LED freezes, all buttons stops working, WB keeps working and delivering FFB. It used to happen on the main straight of Nurb right after last turn on your second lap, few times it froze one me there. I don't even need to say how much frustrating this issue is...

    Driver Version: 356

    Base FW Version: 670

    Wheel FW Version: 28

  • Peyo PeevPeyo Peev Member
    edited February 2020

    No, the PS Formula rim with the Podium module. I am the only one with this issue?

    Edit: Now im starting to track it on Nords happening on the same spot on the first Kuressell, the weird part is, on Nurb it was happening on the straight, so its not connected with some violent FFB....that should be driver issue, not the rim itself being faulty

  • Hi, not sure where to begin; I picked up a dd1 a week ago and had large issues after installing the beta drivers. It seems it was a compatibility issue between the driver and base/f1 2019 se wheel that I was using. It basically bricked the dd1

    Rolled back the drivers to 346 and put my bmw gt2 rim and and thankfully it works as intended. I have numerous questions to ask related to the issue. I've read most of the pages in this thread related to here goes.

    1. What exactly is legacy mode.

    2. With the dd base , what is v2 5 mode? Is this is what is present before enabling high torque ?

    3. Why are some dd1 working great with the new drivers, whereas others are having issues.

    4. Where is the serial # on the dd1? Is this located on the box ?.... just wondering if I can find out manuf. date to see if mine is a newer base.

    5. What is the warranty on dd1? 1 year ?

    I'm almost afraid to remove my gt2 rim and try my f1 2019 se as I dont want to go back to the problems I had.

    I havent registered the product nor did i contact support as it seems like alot of issues are covered here. Was seriously considering returning it but hopefully with the next driver update will resolve these issues.

  • I really hope the next driver update is a good one because this driver seems to be a right fail from fanatec. pick it up guys cause things look bad from a consumer aspect

  • I was expecting some sort of resposne. FYI Fanatec, on the 2nd of March will be my first race on rF GT Pro series, if my rim freezes out on that race, on an event sponosred by FANATEC! be 100% sure there is no way this not to become a big meme in the community. Already plently of people are bashing Fanatec there, and please don't tell me to roll back pre 352, using a DD on 8-bit it's just unacceptable.

    1. Legacy Mode is the display mode of every Fanatec Wheel, so basic display mode. ITM is the new Telemetry based display mode which can show a lot of infos at once on the big OLED screen of the DD base and BME
    2. v2.5 mode is the compatibility mode so the DD emulates to be a CSW v2.5
    3. all should work the same
    4. as written in the manual, under the top plate
    5. 3 yrs for new ones, 2 yrs for old ones before price increase back in May last year
  • It is sad that there are no drivers that work and we can actually drive, but we are dealing with errors and so on ...

  • edited February 2020

    Podium DD2 with Formula V2 F1 and CS V3 pedals

    PC driver: 352

    WBFW: 669

    SW FW:28

    It happens to me as well, ever since December. It happened with formula V2 F1 with podium paddle module but also with universal HUB. I then sent it to RMA but it happend again after repairing was done. Have been having this issue for almost a week after coming back from RMA, mostly driving the BMW M8 at Sebring, and today I tried with Formula Renault 3.5 at Imola with same results (happens about 10 laps after booting up the base). Strangly, just now, did a whole stint with HPD at Interlagos and everything was fine. Always using iracing.

    Any ideas? Should I install driver 356 and FW 670 or is it just ever more bugged than 352?

  • The driver starts normally, I can see 2 entries for wheel base DD2, but I can not access the property page. Clicking 'properties' does nothing!

  • Baffling, fellow sim racer sended be 352 and for about 2 hours and couple sessions restart havent had rim "freeze". The random thumbs are back. Sometimes it doesn't freeze, i guess i gotta wait and try tomorrow.

  • False alarm, it also happens with HPD at Interlagos. No idea what the fuck is this issue related.

  • Once again I need to point out that the jolts have occurred since launch but have only been made more frequent by the last two beta drivers and these occur even if you are on the main DD screen that says Fanatec on it, you don’t need to go to a analysis page for these jolts to happen.

  • Just wanted to update that Fanatec support decided to replace my DD1 PS4 base. It was returned with the driver v347 firmware installed which is weird, but Phillip at support told me he would have a chat with the rest of the team to go with another standard when they ship DD bases to customers. By the way, the new base works perfectly but I would really have like if they had the firmware issues with driver v356 solved so I could use my PBME an PHUB. This brings me to my question: is it possible to use the PHUB, PBME and Podium Shifter Module if not upgrading to the v356 driver and not upgrading firmware? I know I won't be able to see any info on the OLED on the PBME but can I use the buttons in-game?

  • I just got it with 352 too......can someone from Fanatec say seriously is this driver issue or the WB hardware fault. This is really starting to get out of line......

  • To be honest I am not a big fan of beta drivers...

    so my question is: if the podium hub only has to serve as a connection point between the DD2 and a third party wheel, will it work if the driver being used is 335 and the firmware comming with it?

  • No. The Podium Hub was released after driver 335 so the Base would not recognize the Podium Hub with such an old driver/firmware installed.

  • So would the Hub, paddle module and buttons on PBME work with driver v347? I know the OLED won't work, but I can live with that until a new driver and firmware is released.

  • edited February 2020
  • Marcel PfisterMarcel Pfister Member, Administrator

    Start the driver installer and use the repair function, this should help.

  • I haven't gone through the whole forum list just too much, I am having an issue with the DD2 and V352. The Fan cuts in at about 4200rpm very quickly after racing for about 10 mins although h the temp are well withing spec, this never happened with my previous DD2 base only the replacement.

    I sometime get the fan cutting in when the base has been off for 24 hours and it will run for anything up to an hour before turning off.

    I have done the motor calibration and tried alternative FW versions, same issue. Has anyone else had this happen.


  • edited February 2020

    Hello Marcel, 

    I am a user of a DD2, I have been using the 356 driver since it was released (first was the 352) and I have followed the conversation in this thread since its beginning, since I have had the problems associated with that version from the beginning: 

    - When I turn off the DD2 base, it systematically generates a noise or bump. (I didn't do it with previous versions). The noise has not increased over time.

    - Using the base in iRacing simulator (I don't try others because I don't have time for now) and in a "random" way (maybe there is a pattern but I haven't detected it) I get jolts and hits from FFB that I'm 100% sure are not produced by the simulator because of the situation and the way it feels. 

    This problem I have noticed has been increasing over time.  

    I am concerned about the life expectancy of my DD2 base even though I have a 5 year warranty I am not sure if it will ever be achieved. 

    I would need if possible a clarification from you about an approximate date of a new driver to replace the current one allowing the features of this one but fixing the known problems.


    Miguel / Nikos

    PS: I have almost every session of use with the DD2 recorded on my streaming channel with a 4K camera pointed at the wheel, I'm sure it's possible to find some time when this I comment is visible as the bump is quite strong.

  • Marcel PfisterMarcel Pfister Member, Administrator

    What temps do you have exactly? If one is measured as 0°C the fan would run max as well.

    Is it only with 352? Can you try 346 to see if it happens there also. By trying different versions we can line out if it's a firmware or hardware issue which could be the case as you state it only happens with the replacement.

  • Marcel PfisterMarcel Pfister Member, Administrator

    Hi Miguel

    • The knock when turning off is under investigation but we are working on the jolt issue first. The knock when turning off is not a problem for the DD and won't damage it.
    • Some users report the jolt is only happening when one of the analysis screens which shows a graph is visible on the display, so using the dafault screen with the Fanatec logo could help. Other tests suggested that it mainly happens when the base FFB is maxed out at 100% so reducing it to around 80% helped some of the users.

    We are finalizing the firmware this week to pack it into a driver next week, which means if nothing goes wrong there should be a new driver beginning of March.

  • On the shutdown knock, in what order are the inputs to the motor terminated? I’m wondering if the offset for the anti cog is still being applied after the FFB input zeroes out, and is causing one last sharp movement.

    It might also help to add a call to the soft power cut function on the base (the one called when tapping the power button) as the first step in the shutdown sequence.

  • 356



    Mostly I like these beta drivers but one thing worries me is when you get a bad jolt in the DD2. This tends to happen driving the Pro Mazda at the Nurb and if touch a curb you feel it. You tend to think that its going to break long before the 5 year warranty expires. These are the settings I use in iRacing....

    sen 1080

    FFB 047

    lin off

    ndp 021

    nfr 002

    nin 002

    Int off

    fei 100

    force 100

    spr 100

    dpr 100

    abs off


    mps auto

    anything I can do to tone down the reaction? It doesnt effect my driving but the clunk makes me worry, and its V2 wheel

  • Derek MobbsDerek Mobbs Member
    edited February 2020

    Hi Marcel,

    I just turned the base on after 20 hours that it has been off for and the fans started straight away at 4000rpm. Currently the readings are:

    Mot: 0, DRV: 34, BAS: 32, WQR: 37. Keep in mind that I have not turned a lap only just turned on.

    The Fan ran for approximately 20 mins then turned off, this is happening under V356 Beta . Now that the fans are off I am driving in iRacing for 20 mins the Tmp Motor 34*C, Tmp Driver 40*C Fan is at 0570 RPM. I am going to reload the 356 beta Driver and relevant FW and try again to see what happens as V346 feels very notchy and not as much fidelity.

  • Marcel PfisterMarcel Pfister Member, Administrator

    We are working on a fix, until then you could try to raise INT a bit to at least 1 and don't use any info screen on the DD which has a graph on it as this is for some people the main cause of jolts. Doesn't help everyone though.

  • Marcel PfisterMarcel Pfister Member, Administrator

    Ok then Mot: 0 is the reason for the fan running max speed, this could be an issue of the firmware as some other reported similar but we can only be sure if you compare it to older firmware as well. If it happens with every firmware, it's likely a hardware issue and maybe a broken temp sensor, if it happens only with newer firmware we have to solve it with a future update.

This discussion has been closed.