My experience: DD1, xbox UHX, V3 pedals, Porsche rim, PBME for Christmas. Had a broken RJ12 jack on the base so pedals and base went RMJ repair ticket first thing. Had a brand new laptop that I loaded the initial driver on early 2020 and it worked ok. Fidelity was ok and the reliability was poor with constant freezing that required power to be pulled and cycled often a couple times. The V3 pedals were just ok out of the box. The PBME was brand new and full of issues and most buttons did not work. As the pedals were a black friday purchase, they came with the brake performance kit.
BUT
V3 Pedals: I quickly watched the Youtubes and read up on the V3 pedals and put on the extensions and applied the green/green of the performance kit. WAY BETTER! Dare say that is how they should be shipped. Also oil the damn things when they squeak!
DD1 Base: This latest driver/firmware brought the fidelity of the base to life. This is what I thought I was buying. occassional freeze and during F1 2020 the wheel position will stick at angle while the throttle and gear shifts/buttons still work leading to a crash. There is also still something that is not quite right that does not seem to be correctable with FEI 80-100, INT 4-8, NDP 25-55 that feels notchy. But the lag is gone and the information is MUCH BETTER.
UHX: I found another used one of these and snagged it along with a GT Forza rim to see if I could A/B the button box issues. It seems to my uneducated guess and reading that the components in this may be limiting both the button box granularity and possibly the experience overall. I'm hopeful maybe with the new Xbox comes a new Podium UHX/F1 rim.. I can dream. The one BAD thing on both of these UHX is the interaction of the F1 2020 game with downshifts. In a nutshell 3rd to 2nd, 2nd to 1st has rpm down gremlins that exist beyond the known one in the F1 game. It can really throw off your rhythm when the shift you made does not register again and again and again and only at lower speed shifts. This is a F1 2020 issue that seems to also be amplified by something in the fanatec ecosystem. Average to below average aged product.
PBME: The new button box! Was almost unusable out of the gate, now every button actually works. There is still rotary dial increment issues on the menus as well as incorrect input issues with the latest update but at least it works now! Perhaps the nagging flaw here for xbox player is I still have to fire up a controller in order to use any functions associated with the big green xbox button (a lot of things like recording races, image capture, partying up, etc.). I had my headset set to a turtle beach amp and using the UHX buttons I could eliminate the need for a controller that could also bring in more errors. Until the PBME can do this for itself I had to also fire up a controller and set it next to me. Since the controllers are tied to use they turn themselves off every few laps until you plug them into the xbox directly with a USB to mini USB long cable.. Much improved with latest update but its clear there is no beta tester that is dealing with xbox only issues here. BTW, as most of you know xbox does not allow you to map any buttons beyond what you find in a controller nullifying the utility of the dials, analog switches, etc. So basically I still have a glorified controller connected to my wheel where the Y button has to be the DRS as well as the pit limiter. In addition if you hit the DRS while also attempting to engage the overtake engine mode in the game too close together you accidentally activate the change mode on the base from xbox to PC and its either game over or your AI robot version of you drives around for a bit while you attempt to come back into the race. As it stands now this is less functional than the UHX button array offered but has the promise of future fixes. The big xbutton, although mapped, cannot be tapped to access menus necessary but it can be used to turn off the system and controller. GROWING PAINS STILL!
Porsche Clubsport Wheel: LIKE IT. Good weight, solid, well integrated to button box. A step forward from the GT forza with UHX in look and feel but suffers from unusability without work arounds.
Summary: I love the base after the August driver update but most people likely not happy until this past week. I like the pedals now but couple hours and brake performance kit and many hours getting used to load cell to make a quality purchase. The UHX is aged, dated and constrained by xbox, needs a new, better solution to sell in next generation. I'll be forced to move to PC even though all my friends play xbox with logitech wheels to enjoy the following: no digital display possible on the button box (xbox issue, not fanatec although I'm sure a sum of money and/or contract could make this go away for next gen), PBME button box cannot be used on its own and the mapping is ridiculously useless (also an xbox issue that is not well disclosed by Fanatec that I hope gets fixed next year..) that had no rigor of test on an xbox before its release nearly a year ago. I am satisfied with my purchase because I knew it all and had a plan to migrate to PC eventually, but I am upset at microsoft for their input/output controls as well as Fanatec for their disclosures here. AWESOME stuff with quirks that coupled with Xbox issues make for a lesser experience overall. Hope it helps.
Just tried erasing motor calibration. Only tested for <10 minutes but it does feel better for me. The grainy feeling when the car is still is still present, but that’s always been there.
I wonder why erasing the motor calibration makes for an improved feeling here. Has anyone from Fanatec acknowledged this?
Installed driver v373 and updated firmware on the following:
Podium Racing Wheel (DD1 for PS4)
Formula V2
Podium hub #1 with APM and PBME
Podium hub #2 with 3rd party shifters and wheel rim
Followed the instructions, and everything went smoothly. Had driver v365 installed previously.
Also installed the newest FanaLab, and everything works as advertised in Automobilista 2.
Very happy with this new version :)
(I feel for those with problems, but this seems to me like a very robust driver version, and my guess is that any problems are related to faulty hardware...)
The issue I experienced is 100% caused by this latest release, not hardware, If it was faulty hardware, why was my DD2 working absolutely fine before moving to this release?
The fact that my DD2 is back to how it was after going back to V365 attests to that.
4 days ago I installed the 372 driver and the base turned into a brick, I wrote a request to the support service, which contained the following fragment:
"Rolled back to driver 346 and its firmware - does not help"
4 days of their silence have passed, and do you know what support answered me? Here's what:
"Please delete the Version 372 and downgrade the base to 346."
THERE IS NO LIMIT TO MY ANGER AND INDIGENCE? WHAT DOES IT MEAN? THEY READ THE TEXT OF MY LETTER?
I am depressed and devastated, my base has turned into a brick, the official support does what it does, I'm just shocked by this company and I don't know what to do next ...........
Maybe I'm way off-base here, but it seems there may be language barriers preventing some people from updating their wheelbases and rims properly. Words in some languages don't translate the same in others. Or those words are taken in a different context. One thing that is always the same is video. This is just a suggestion, but if the great people at Fanatec could put together a video installing these drivers and firmware step by step, maybe we wouldn't see so many people having problems.
To be clear, I haven't had any problems. But obviously some people have. This could just be another tool in the toolbox for the consumers to use. Thanks for your great products and continued evolution.
I have yet to even get a response. Hopefully I won't get the same crap response. That will waste another entire day since I'm in the US and our time doesn't overlap with Germany.
I know a lot of people here say to 'get over it'. Well, it might have been a little more palatable if I'd even gotten a response by now. We know how this is going to go. Days of back and forth. Mail it out. Wait a week for it to arrive at Fanatec. Days? to fix it. Wait a week for it to ship back. At this point, we'll be a week in before we even ship it out.
The first email should be the RMA. We've already confirmed with Marcel that our bases are dead.
At this point, I'm resigned to being down for at least a month.
This update just ended up costing me the better part of a day.
Updated, calibrated, joined an iRacing race, after about 20 minutes I got a bluescreen - "Kernel Security Check Failure". (RIP 140 iRating)
I had this once with the DD1 before on a previous driver, 356 ended up fixing that problem. Now it's back.
Last time I also spent hours and hours trying to troubleshoot, and I found a reliable way to test the issue... Start Escape From Tarkov.
Every time I launch Escape From Tarkov this bluescreen will show up, unless I unplug my DD1, or remove the driver, then it works.
So, the issue was back, Tarkov test confirmed it. So I tried to revert to 356, but the issue now remained. I tried everything, different USB ports, no fanalab, new fanalab, older fanalab, even older drivers, downgrading firmwares, etc. but the issue persisted, Kernel Security Check Failure.
In the end I used a Windows Restore Point and restored to before I installed 373 (back to 356), and now everything seems to work again. No bsods in iRacing, no BSODS when starting Tarkov. I am not updating my Fanatec drivers again until this issue is 100% confirmed fixed.
Ok thats what i figured. I never uninstalled before and kept installing over but this time I started having issues that crashed iracing twice in 2 days, so im going to use ccleaner to wipe it and redo it for 373 from 372 and see if that helps.
Oh don’t use CCleaner, it’s a Tool which makes more damage than anything else. I think even Microsoft is actively blocking CCleaner recently because it can make so much just worse
Hi Michael, interesting, can you provide a picture of the blue screen or do you know which text it showed? I'll contact you via personal message as well, then its easier to exchange these and for me to keep track on it.
With having the P-Hub not recognized by the DD1 PS4 wheelbase, would there be an option to have an independent bootloader software just for the P-Hub, just like the one for the PBME?
It seems like the bootloader for the PBME, bypasses the P-Hub, as the PBME was able to be updated & can see on the itm screen that its v13. But no P-hub wheels recognized by the base.
Just doesn't added up if the Clubsport hub & the F1 wheel works fine (a fail FW update that was able to be fixed), as the pins on the P-Hub is not damaged.
Now you are making no sense. Of course the testing was limited - that's why it is still beta, why people are still finding new problems and why part has already been pulled. If testing had concluded successfully, as you seem to now be suggesting, we would have seen a full release version. My original point, which you seem reluctant to understand, is that there is more difference between beta and release than the naming convention. And that difference relates to confidence in the product - which in turn relates directly to the level of testing. This was my original point that you you have argued with over a series of posts now.
Maybe they told you to delete from Windows any drivers that has to do with fanatec (372). When this is done switch off the computer. Then restart. Download the 346 like you would do if you had a new hardware. Restart your computer, connect the base to PC with PC mode on and do the driver installation.
A picture of exactly what the fanatec wheel properties application (under the update tab) is showing you right know it would help as well.
A message like
"I tried to install 372 beta, bricked my base and rolled back to 346 and its firmware - does not help"
Which indeed it does not help.
Also you can try and PM Marcel Pfister and give him your service request number as well.
I have already drawn all the conclusions from this company, and I intend to write a detailed review of my experience, which I will publish on all forums and discord channels known to me, I consider it my duty so that people who are just making their choice understand who they are contacting.
In principle, the company has already punished itself and caused significant damage to the reputation of its products.
Absolutely at all sites where I communicate with many people, everyone unanimously says that a fanatec is not the best option to buy, now I fully support them.
Comments
Update finalab 1.47
And then cou still don’t get car ahead and car behind in most sims, wasn’t that his issue?
Maurice/All,
Great update!
My experience: DD1, xbox UHX, V3 pedals, Porsche rim, PBME for Christmas. Had a broken RJ12 jack on the base so pedals and base went RMJ repair ticket first thing. Had a brand new laptop that I loaded the initial driver on early 2020 and it worked ok. Fidelity was ok and the reliability was poor with constant freezing that required power to be pulled and cycled often a couple times. The V3 pedals were just ok out of the box. The PBME was brand new and full of issues and most buttons did not work. As the pedals were a black friday purchase, they came with the brake performance kit.
BUT
V3 Pedals: I quickly watched the Youtubes and read up on the V3 pedals and put on the extensions and applied the green/green of the performance kit. WAY BETTER! Dare say that is how they should be shipped. Also oil the damn things when they squeak!
DD1 Base: This latest driver/firmware brought the fidelity of the base to life. This is what I thought I was buying. occassional freeze and during F1 2020 the wheel position will stick at angle while the throttle and gear shifts/buttons still work leading to a crash. There is also still something that is not quite right that does not seem to be correctable with FEI 80-100, INT 4-8, NDP 25-55 that feels notchy. But the lag is gone and the information is MUCH BETTER.
UHX: I found another used one of these and snagged it along with a GT Forza rim to see if I could A/B the button box issues. It seems to my uneducated guess and reading that the components in this may be limiting both the button box granularity and possibly the experience overall. I'm hopeful maybe with the new Xbox comes a new Podium UHX/F1 rim.. I can dream. The one BAD thing on both of these UHX is the interaction of the F1 2020 game with downshifts. In a nutshell 3rd to 2nd, 2nd to 1st has rpm down gremlins that exist beyond the known one in the F1 game. It can really throw off your rhythm when the shift you made does not register again and again and again and only at lower speed shifts. This is a F1 2020 issue that seems to also be amplified by something in the fanatec ecosystem. Average to below average aged product.
PBME: The new button box! Was almost unusable out of the gate, now every button actually works. There is still rotary dial increment issues on the menus as well as incorrect input issues with the latest update but at least it works now! Perhaps the nagging flaw here for xbox player is I still have to fire up a controller in order to use any functions associated with the big green xbox button (a lot of things like recording races, image capture, partying up, etc.). I had my headset set to a turtle beach amp and using the UHX buttons I could eliminate the need for a controller that could also bring in more errors. Until the PBME can do this for itself I had to also fire up a controller and set it next to me. Since the controllers are tied to use they turn themselves off every few laps until you plug them into the xbox directly with a USB to mini USB long cable.. Much improved with latest update but its clear there is no beta tester that is dealing with xbox only issues here. BTW, as most of you know xbox does not allow you to map any buttons beyond what you find in a controller nullifying the utility of the dials, analog switches, etc. So basically I still have a glorified controller connected to my wheel where the Y button has to be the DRS as well as the pit limiter. In addition if you hit the DRS while also attempting to engage the overtake engine mode in the game too close together you accidentally activate the change mode on the base from xbox to PC and its either game over or your AI robot version of you drives around for a bit while you attempt to come back into the race. As it stands now this is less functional than the UHX button array offered but has the promise of future fixes. The big xbutton, although mapped, cannot be tapped to access menus necessary but it can be used to turn off the system and controller. GROWING PAINS STILL!
Porsche Clubsport Wheel: LIKE IT. Good weight, solid, well integrated to button box. A step forward from the GT forza with UHX in look and feel but suffers from unusability without work arounds.
Summary: I love the base after the August driver update but most people likely not happy until this past week. I like the pedals now but couple hours and brake performance kit and many hours getting used to load cell to make a quality purchase. The UHX is aged, dated and constrained by xbox, needs a new, better solution to sell in next generation. I'll be forced to move to PC even though all my friends play xbox with logitech wheels to enjoy the following: no digital display possible on the button box (xbox issue, not fanatec although I'm sure a sum of money and/or contract could make this go away for next gen), PBME button box cannot be used on its own and the mapping is ridiculously useless (also an xbox issue that is not well disclosed by Fanatec that I hope gets fixed next year..) that had no rigor of test on an xbox before its release nearly a year ago. I am satisfied with my purchase because I knew it all and had a plan to migrate to PC eventually, but I am upset at microsoft for their input/output controls as well as Fanatec for their disclosures here. AWESOME stuff with quirks that coupled with Xbox issues make for a lesser experience overall. Hope it helps.
Same question here？ had no problem when updating V372, so should I keep V372 and ignore the V 373? Thanks in advance.
Just tried erasing motor calibration. Only tested for <10 minutes but it does feel better for me. The grainy feeling when the car is still is still present, but that’s always been there.
I wonder why erasing the motor calibration makes for an improved feeling here. Has anyone from Fanatec acknowledged this?
The only difference between 372 and 373 is the removed WQR update, so you don't need to update.
No u 😉
Sorry not sorry🤷♂️
Works great on Csl elite ps4👍
Installed driver v373 and updated firmware on the following:
Followed the instructions, and everything went smoothly. Had driver v365 installed previously.
Also installed the newest FanaLab, and everything works as advertised in Automobilista 2.
Very happy with this new version :)
(I feel for those with problems, but this seems to me like a very robust driver version, and my guess is that any problems are related to faulty hardware...)
The issue I experienced is 100% caused by this latest release, not hardware, If it was faulty hardware, why was my DD2 working absolutely fine before moving to this release?
The fact that my DD2 is back to how it was after going back to V365 attests to that.
Of course the issue is caused by the new relase, but in combination with faulty hardware, or some strange conflict with the PC software/hardware.
If the driver was fundamentaly bad, a lot more users would have experienced problems.
All of this is just my personal opinion/guess.
4 days ago I installed the 372 driver and the base turned into a brick, I wrote a request to the support service, which contained the following fragment:
"Rolled back to driver 346 and its firmware - does not help"
4 days of their silence have passed, and do you know what support answered me? Here's what:
"Please delete the Version 372 and downgrade the base to 346."
THERE IS NO LIMIT TO MY ANGER AND INDIGENCE? WHAT DOES IT MEAN? THEY READ THE TEXT OF MY LETTER?
I am depressed and devastated, my base has turned into a brick, the official support does what it does, I'm just shocked by this company and I don't know what to do next ...........
I installed 372, but in iracing, 2 out of 4 of my races had a game freeze or BSOD, since the 372 update
When I updated to 373, am i supposed to uninstall 372 and fanalab before installing the new version, or can i install over 372?
Maybe I'm way off-base here, but it seems there may be language barriers preventing some people from updating their wheelbases and rims properly. Words in some languages don't translate the same in others. Or those words are taken in a different context. One thing that is always the same is video. This is just a suggestion, but if the great people at Fanatec could put together a video installing these drivers and firmware step by step, maybe we wouldn't see so many people having problems.
To be clear, I haven't had any problems. But obviously some people have. This could just be another tool in the toolbox for the consumers to use. Thanks for your great products and continued evolution.
Keith.
It's always best and recommended to uninstall the older driver first.
I have yet to even get a response. Hopefully I won't get the same crap response. That will waste another entire day since I'm in the US and our time doesn't overlap with Germany.
I know a lot of people here say to 'get over it'. Well, it might have been a little more palatable if I'd even gotten a response by now. We know how this is going to go. Days of back and forth. Mail it out. Wait a week for it to arrive at Fanatec. Days? to fix it. Wait a week for it to ship back. At this point, we'll be a week in before we even ship it out.
The first email should be the RMA. We've already confirmed with Marcel that our bases are dead.
At this point, I'm resigned to being down for at least a month.
This update just ended up costing me the better part of a day.
Updated, calibrated, joined an iRacing race, after about 20 minutes I got a bluescreen - "Kernel Security Check Failure". (RIP 140 iRating)
I had this once with the DD1 before on a previous driver, 356 ended up fixing that problem. Now it's back.
Last time I also spent hours and hours trying to troubleshoot, and I found a reliable way to test the issue... Start Escape From Tarkov.
Every time I launch Escape From Tarkov this bluescreen will show up, unless I unplug my DD1, or remove the driver, then it works.
So, the issue was back, Tarkov test confirmed it. So I tried to revert to 356, but the issue now remained. I tried everything, different USB ports, no fanalab, new fanalab, older fanalab, even older drivers, downgrading firmwares, etc. but the issue persisted, Kernel Security Check Failure.
In the end I used a Windows Restore Point and restored to before I installed 373 (back to 356), and now everything seems to work again. No bsods in iRacing, no BSODS when starting Tarkov. I am not updating my Fanatec drivers again until this issue is 100% confirmed fixed.
Ok thats what i figured. I never uninstalled before and kept installing over but this time I started having issues that crashed iracing twice in 2 days, so im going to use ccleaner to wipe it and redo it for 373 from 372 and see if that helps.
Oh don’t use CCleaner, it’s a Tool which makes more damage than anything else. I think even Microsoft is actively blocking CCleaner recently because it can make so much just worse
Hi Michael, interesting, can you provide a picture of the blue screen or do you know which text it showed? I'll contact you via personal message as well, then its easier to exchange these and for me to keep track on it.
With having the P-Hub not recognized by the DD1 PS4 wheelbase, would there be an option to have an independent bootloader software just for the P-Hub, just like the one for the PBME?
It seems like the bootloader for the PBME, bypasses the P-Hub, as the PBME was able to be updated & can see on the itm screen that its v13. But no P-hub wheels recognized by the base.
Just doesn't added up if the Clubsport hub & the F1 wheel works fine (a fail FW update that was able to be fixed), as the pins on the P-Hub is not damaged.
Still waiting on support as well.
Now you are making no sense. Of course the testing was limited - that's why it is still beta, why people are still finding new problems and why part has already been pulled. If testing had concluded successfully, as you seem to now be suggesting, we would have seen a full release version. My original point, which you seem reluctant to understand, is that there is more difference between beta and release than the naming convention. And that difference relates to confidence in the product - which in turn relates directly to the level of testing. This was my original point that you you have argued with over a series of posts now.
I think there is a language barrier there mate.
Maybe they told you to delete from Windows any drivers that has to do with fanatec (372). When this is done switch off the computer. Then restart. Download the 346 like you would do if you had a new hardware. Restart your computer, connect the base to PC with PC mode on and do the driver installation.
A picture of exactly what the fanatec wheel properties application (under the update tab) is showing you right know it would help as well.
A message like
"I tried to install 372 beta, bricked my base and rolled back to 346 and its firmware - does not help"
Which indeed it does not help.
Also you can try and PM Marcel Pfister and give him your service request number as well.
I have already drawn all the conclusions from this company, and I intend to write a detailed review of my experience, which I will publish on all forums and discord channels known to me, I consider it my duty so that people who are just making their choice understand who they are contacting.
In principle, the company has already punished itself and caused significant damage to the reputation of its products.
Absolutely at all sites where I communicate with many people, everyone unanimously says that a fanatec is not the best option to buy, now I fully support them.
Don't worry Gary. I won't argue with you anymore. Believe what you think regarding the testing of this specific driver package ;).
🤣
Can i just uninstall Beta Drivers and step back to the last good working Drivers, or do i have to do other things too, like resetting firmware?
You just roll back to previous drivers like you would do on newer ones. Uninstall the one driver, reboot, install, reboot, and flash the included FWs.
Done :)
Thanks for the quick reply. Do i have to step back with the FanaLab Software too, or can i use the new one?
Unfortunately you'll have to step back to a previous version.