@Natalie, I don't think the problem lies with PCars, cause I HAD it in the Fanatec function test window. I recalibrated the minimum and maximum input...and yes Nuno...I still have my dead zones at 6 for brake and gas pedal...but it appeared to me again Yesterday. I even did a save game delete, rebuild PS4 database AND FULL reinstall of the game...
Try Setting the BrF settng to 40 to Reduce the Brake sensitivity... it maybe the pedal FW is too sensitive because i get that flickering every now and again too... I turn the BrF to 40 and it goes way.
Yea I'm using brf 100 and load cell set to 2.5 with damper set to 4.5 (it feels very close to my own vehicle brake, not to hard, not to soft)
Setting brake dead zone didn't resolve the issue, I tried this in the first instance, it looks like my load cell / seating of the pedal has caused a bend in the metal which is causing it to malfunction. My clutch pedal MAY be resolved I dismantled it completely using the instructions / video / spring replacement etc and completely rebuilt it using my own QA it now reaches further and "almost" completely fully engages. So it looks like it's been built/constructed poorly and/or perhaps wasn't checked during QA.
Brake is still bending the bar, not seated correctly, won't fully disengage and the acc pedall is still bent to the right,
Dampers are still clicking, so I'm waiting to see what happened with (the other user who sent his back) to see what fanatic response is, untill then I raised it as an issue and I am willing to wait to see if it's just until the break in...
I'm still disappointed Particularly due to the astonishing amount of money I've spent over that last few months and almost all of my items arriving faulty, and then being told they want me to pay to ship them back. I would expect if you spend over €4000 euro with any company, that they would at least just send UPS to pick it up, while they drop off the replacement.
Hopefully fanatec will do that (or similar) on this occasion so that I don't have to be inconvenienced anymore wether it be time/cost etc.
I checked my handbrake and the issue appears to be related to a broken plastic connector. I've been to the local electronic store and replaced the connector and now that too seems to now be functioning a little better (even with the V3 which fanatic support said doesn't support the club sport handbrake?)
So pedals and dampers are still not functioning, Johannes sent me some new buttons for the broken ones on both my €500 wheels that arrived (thanks Johannes) :-* so overall it's been a frustrating end to the week, but I am sincerely hoping fanatec redeem themselves by exchanging this with the least amount of cost/time and Inconvenience to me, considering the circumstances.
Thanks for all the pics/videos advice etc as this has been absolutely integral to getting this issue resolved.
This is one of the few places on the internet where the people are truly spectacular :-*
Any other Aussies get their pedals yet ? Had mine installed couple of days and they are very good. Coming from my trusty v1's it is a worthwhile upgrade. Tried the D shape pedals but except for the clutch I went back to the metal plates. Pedals appear high quality and look awesome !
I will try to help some of you who are having difficulty`s with intermittent brake application.
First of all I have been using Fanatec products since 2009 and have been doing heavy modifications to them to resolve problems.
The brake problems mentioned here have been around since the V1 pedals and are most noticeable when changing the return springs for heavier tension units. This added return pressure of the pedal arms are causing the rear horizontal round bar to bend forward as the pedals seat at the barstop area ( square bar ).
There are several ways of getting around this issue.
1 - keep the spring pressure to a minimum by leaving the stock springs on the clutch and throttle pedals and keep the brake pressure spring to the minimum. This will result in less deflection of the round bar and the pedals will come back to the rest point more accurately.
2 - replace the front to rear round bar flat link ( flat bar joining the front to rear ) with square tubing. ( this would require fabrication skills)
3 - fabricate and install another flat bar to the right side of the brake pedal arm. ( small modifications to the tube spacer sleeves are required ).
4 - shorten the PU Foam insert in the brake pedal housing to alleviate some pressure against the load cell when the brake is not applied.
5 - increase the in game brake deadzone to compensate for this effect. ( not all games have this adjustment setting )
You can visually see the round bar bend while increasing the brake adjuster pressure from minimum to maximum.
Hope this helps and and all in all it is up to Fanatec to resolve these issues with a design change.
I've just upgraded from v1. The design of the v3 brake is totally new and there is no longer a spring but a hydraulic style pressure system which is adjustable. The clutch is also well made and there is no need to change or modify anything.
if you refer to the product pages on the Fanatec web page it specifies the compatibility for each of their products, what follows is the full compatibility of the V3 pedals.....
Compatibility
PC (Connection through USB):
Compatible with any racing wheel from Fanatec or any other brand (Logitech, Thrustmaster, etc) if used on PC.
It will work with any racing wheel if the game supports a second controller.
These PC games support a second USB controller:
iRacing
Assetto Corsa
Project Cars
GTR 2
Race 07
rFactor
Live for Speed
...and many others
If you connect it to a Fanatec wheel it will be compatible to all racing games. Please note that the vibration function is not supported by all games and can be implemented with plug ins to our driver if the games sends the telemetry data.
Console compatibility (Playstation 3, Playstation 4, Xbox 360, Xbox One, etc.):
Please check the information on the product page of the Fanatec Racing Wheel or Wheel Base to which the pedals will be connected.
If this helps somebody, sometimes it happens to me that if I do change anything in the pedals like break stiffness just to say, I resume the game and notice that even tough I am not touching the break pedal it shows like I am pushing it like 5% which is annoying and a little scary but I reset the game and the problem desapiar
if you refer to the product pages on the Fanatec web page it specifies the compatibility for each of their products, what follows is the full compatibility of the V3 pedals.....
Compatibility
PC (Connection through USB):
Compatible with any racing wheel from Fanatec or any other brand (Logitech, Thrustmaster, etc) if used on PC.
It will work with any racing wheel if the game supports a second controller.
These PC games support a second USB controller:
iRacing
Assetto Corsa
Project Cars
GTR 2
Race 07
rFactor
Live for Speed
...and many others
If you connect it to a Fanatec wheel it will be compatible to all racing games. Please note that the vibration function is not supported by all games and can be implemented with plug ins to our driver if the games sends the telemetry data.
Console compatibility (Playstation 3, Playstation 4, Xbox 360, Xbox One, etc.):
Please check the information on the product page of the Fanatec Racing Wheel or Wheel Base to which the pedals will be connected.
The Fanatec manuals have several things wrong Joe, for instance they say that the sq shifter works with the csr wheel and there is not even any hole to plug the shifter on it, so you as a Fanatec employee maybe can fix this one
not a Fanatec employee... that said, if you have a product which the compatibility does not match the product literature you need to contact Fanatec support to get an answer... and times they are available for chat Via the Fanatec Home page ... look for the red square...
not a Fanatec employee... that said, if you have a product which the compatibility does not match the product literature you need to contact Fanatec support to get an answer... and times they are available for chat Via the Fanatec Home page ... look for the red square...
Alberto, there is an adapter that takes the RJ11 connection to the PS3 connection .... it was packaged with the CSR elite wheel. and may be available from Fanatec ... see photo.... this may solve your problem ... not to confuse you or anyone else
hi joe did you test the combo on consoles ( csr +v3), does it works ? especially project cars on ps 4
i received my pedal and dont want to brake it if missused, i also have my t 300 and wainting for my cpx adaptor but it could be long before i get it...
c'mon Joe we are not competing here, just helping fellow sim racing fans. if there is an adaptor that can do the job I am cool with that but I just said that with the regular stuff that come in the box it wasn't possible; but if that makes you happy I will give you a 1000 points my dear Joe
And maybe I am wrong but the csr forza motorsport wheel and the csr elite wheel are different products so pls Joe c'mon you are not going to buy the csr elite to get a single cable but I still give you kudos ok?
Comments
I even did a save game delete, rebuild PS4 database AND FULL reinstall of the game...
Yea I'm using brf 100 and load cell set to 2.5 with damper set to 4.5 (it feels very close to my own vehicle brake, not to hard, not to soft)
Setting brake dead zone didn't resolve the issue, I tried this in the first instance, it looks like my load cell / seating of the pedal has caused a bend in the metal which is causing it to malfunction. My clutch pedal MAY be resolved I dismantled it completely using the instructions / video / spring replacement etc and completely rebuilt it using my own QA
Brake is still bending the bar, not seated correctly, won't fully disengage and the acc pedall is still bent to the right,
Dampers are still clicking, so I'm waiting to see what happened with (the other user who sent his back) to see what fanatic response is, untill then I raised it as an issue and I am willing to wait to see if it's just until the break in...
I'm still disappointed
Particularly due to the astonishing amount of money I've spent over that last few months and almost all of my items arriving faulty, and then being told they want me to pay to ship them back. I would expect if you spend over €4000 euro with any company, that they would at least just send UPS to pick it up, while they drop off the replacement.
Hopefully fanatec will do that (or similar) on this occasion so that I don't have to be inconvenienced anymore wether it be time/cost etc.
I checked my handbrake and the issue appears to be related to a broken plastic connector. I've been to the local electronic store and replaced the connector and now that too seems to now be functioning a little better (even with the V3 which fanatic support said doesn't support the club sport handbrake?)
So pedals and dampers are still not functioning, Johannes sent me some new buttons for the broken ones on both my €500 wheels that arrived (thanks Johannes) :-* so overall it's been a frustrating end to the week, but I am sincerely hoping fanatec redeem themselves by exchanging this with the least amount of cost/time and Inconvenience to me, considering the circumstances.
Thanks for all the pics/videos advice etc as this has been absolutely integral to getting this issue resolved.
This is one of the few places on the internet where the people are truly spectacular :-*
I will try to help some of you who are having difficulty`s with intermittent brake application.
First of all I have been using Fanatec products since 2009 and have been doing heavy modifications to them to resolve problems.
The brake problems mentioned here have been around since the V1 pedals and are most noticeable when changing the return springs for heavier tension units. This added return pressure of the pedal arms are causing the rear horizontal round bar to bend forward as the pedals seat at the barstop area ( square bar ).
There are several ways of getting around this issue.
1 - keep the spring pressure to a minimum by leaving the stock springs on the clutch and throttle pedals and keep the brake pressure spring to the minimum. This will result in less deflection of the round bar and the pedals will come back to the rest point more accurately.
2 - replace the front to rear round bar flat link ( flat bar joining the front to rear ) with square tubing. ( this would require fabrication skills)
3 - fabricate and install another flat bar to the right side of the brake pedal arm. ( small modifications to the tube spacer sleeves are required ).
4 - shorten the PU Foam insert in the brake pedal housing to alleviate some pressure against the load cell when the brake is not applied.
5 - increase the in game brake deadzone to compensate for this effect. ( not all games have this adjustment setting )
You can visually see the round bar bend while increasing the brake adjuster pressure from minimum to maximum.
Hope this helps and and all in all it is up to Fanatec to resolve these issues with a design change.
are the V3 compatible with the csr wheel ?
As I said Mr
I don't think so sr. I tried it for a month and didn't work, is just my humble opinion toughQuote from the Fanatec product page for the V3 pedals:
"Compatible with any racing wheel from Fanatec or any other brand (Logitech, Thrustmaster, etc) if used on PC."
if you refer to the product pages on the Fanatec web page it specifies the compatibility for each of their products, what follows is the full compatibility of the V3 pedals.....
Alberto, there is an adapter that takes the RJ11 connection to the PS3 connection .... it was packaged with the CSR elite wheel. and may be available from Fanatec ... see photo.... this may solve your problem ... not to confuse you or anyone else
hi joe did you test the combo on consoles ( csr +v3), does it works ? especially project cars on ps 4
i received my pedal and dont want to brake it if missused, i also have my t 300 and wainting for my cpx adaptor but it could be long before i get it...
c'mon Joe we are not competing here, just helping fellow sim racing fans. if there is an adaptor that can do the job I am cool with that but I just said that with the regular stuff that come in the box it wasn't possible; but if that makes you happy I will give you a 1000 points my dear Joe