Yes, I know! But the same could be achieved by limiting the overall FFB to 80 which is all this setting does as you and Maurice have explained. Seems strange that this requires a separate setting and even stranger that it is now on by default. I've yet to hear from anybody who finds LIN on beneficial in practice - I believe even you and Maurice keep it off, despite all your protestations.
I dont know whats happening lately but I'm still on the last one 399 and Ive noticed in iRacing my DD2 gets micro-disconnects randomly. I would notice for literally a split second the wheel in game straightens out, while my hands are physically turned, and then it reconnects. It literally happens for half a second and comes back. I don't hear the USB disconnect sound (when there's issues like USB power conflicts and such), so im not sure what it could be. It's happened a few times in the last few days and could be very dangerous. It's happened 2 laps in a road right at the end of the long straight on nordschleife and almost caused me to lose the car at the end of the straight if it wouldve disconnected for a split second longer than it was.
I also just got an RMA'ed power supply so I hope it's not power from the power supply getting interrupted. I switched USB ports and will test more later to see if it was a USB Port issue. If it happens again, I'll plug it into another USB internal HUB that i have and test more. If it continues to happen then i might switch out the power supply and test that.
I was suffering from minor disconnects, seemed to be interference affecting the USB signal. My issues were resolved by rerouting the USB cable away from power cables - also replaced the cable with one that may be better protected against EMI, shielded with ferrite cores.
I do have alot of EMI around me even though it's all shielded and grounded - im using a motion rig so that could be the issue creeping back up again. I'll try this other USB port - if it happens again I'll reroute the cable. Thank you for letting me know that - didnt think of that as an issue any more but it could be back.
This driver also has issues with BattleEye, causing BSODS.
This can easily be tested by launching Tarkov...
352 is the latest driver that did not have this problem... Removing the newer drivers and installing the old driver will not help. You need to do a system restore back to when you had 352 installed...
it could be an idea for Fanatec to explain why certain choices are made. I have turned of Linearity also, same goes for erasing the motor calibration, yeah we added the option to solve issue X but at the end of the day it’s better to remove the motor calibration.
To be honest, Fanatec was on the right way with drivers and firmware and the new “update manager” is nice but as shown many times in this thread the whole quality control is a mess. Simple things like including the right firmware, the fact that you have to disconnect pedals from the base to upgrade your base etcetera.
And then we haven’t even talked about the outstanding issues for direct drive bases that are open for ages.
The Fanatec hardware is fine but the software part is a mess if you ask me. I work as a developer myself and I know mistakes are made sometimes but the mistakes made with the last firmware / driver release makes me wonder how the current state of the code base is... probably not as good as they hope it should be.
After click "Open firmware update assistent" hapens nothings. Only two opened window dissapears.
I try what I read more threads up.
Uninstall drivers,restart,plug pedals, and after instal 401 software. Restart,open software, go to update, click "Open firmware update assistent" and.... that same. Two windows dissapears and manager wont open.
I try too run FwPedalsUpdate.exe directly ,but I see something like "try pedals to bootmode...". And nothing...
Good...what now? hmmmmm
One more time I going to Update and click not button "Open firmware update assistent" but RED writing " New firmware is ......blabla" .
Problem: upgraded to new driver and firmware on DD2. All wheels upgraded and we'll fine. Podium hub, F1 wheel, BMW wheel, BUT McClaren gt3 wheel v 1 keeps saying caution wheel not recognized. I have reinstalled older and new drivers and nothing works.
Can't get the base to see the wheel. It's bricked. Anyway to reset it or bring it back? Thanks
Hello. I am still on an older firmware and reading such threads make me afraid of updating to newer drivers.
Except some small annoyances (eg sometimes I need to restart to have negative DR values, the kick when turning, off, etc) , everything is working great. However, 'even better than great' is the enemy of 'just great', so I have the fear of missing out.
Are the changes worth it for me to 'risk' updating? I am using a CSL for PS4 base (v1.0), PS4 steering wheel. I mean, are there any major differences, eg better ffb resolution/information, etc?
Thanks for your time and possible replies. I wish I had more time to experiment on my own.
Although I am very happy with my set so far, I have to agree with other commenters that UX-wise the driver installation is indeed a mess. There's a mix of final and beta drivers, and although I get the richness of the ecosystem, I still don't get why one needs more than a one-click driver installer.
I find having LIN On beneficial in practice. Having less spikes and brutal oscillations I am able to increase Strength in iRacing which gives a better feel for the grip of the tires on track.
If you have some concerns regarding firmware upgrades i totally understand them. At this moment i wouldn't recommend upgrading to any user unless you have an idea on how to troubleshoot things when it doesn't work as expected. Yes the new update manager is an improvement for people who aren't able to read a manual but other than that this release was quite a mess.
There were 3 releases in a very short period with issues that could have been prevented if the packages where tested properly before they got released, stuff got changed without any proper explanation (Linearity mode) on why this became a default setting. Besides that, the amount of changes and fixed issues are quite small, unless you have a set of V3 pedals or the new CSL hub i would keep it on the current version if you don't have any issues at the moment.
Clicking on the red message "There's a new firmware available..." in the update tab just bypasses the launch of the Firmware Manager, and starts the firmware updater the "old way", and you can update pedals firmware.
Steering Wheel Model (product ID): .... ClubSport Formula V2
Beta 401.
ACC PS4
I had to go back to a older version I found my self slower with this beta , I even had to change settings so I could drver the car around the track with out consistent mistakes, I am not say I am a great driver but using the beta 401 things had got alot worst.
I had one moment when I turned my wheel on and it went crazy rotating it was like it was trying to do 360 rotation that how hard it was hitting the end of its rotation I had to power off my wheel for it to stop.
Besides the mapping issues and the violent vibration when braking heavily some times. I noticed I can't use 640 steering lock in game & on the wheel like i did before (sensit) , it's like I have to start from fresh.
I noticed my rev display on the base stays on randomly & when in race it not sync to the display in-game I also noticed random disconnection, for example I went to get a drink come back & the wheel didn't respond I had to restart my wheel before it worked
I am thinking about trying to mix older driver with new drivers to see if I cannot least get the mapping sorted out because that along is loosing me a lot off time when thing don't work correctly.
I have a Bathurst racing coming up & driving with this update is hell around Bathurst I hit a wall every lap I was 6 sec off my already slow time & after A while started to adjust my wheel settings because that the only thing that changed, which I know is a bad thing but after a while you get fed up & need a solution.
Can you please sort out the mapping & make my wheel drivable again.
I have an issue that is firmware related, I suppose.
I own a CSW 2.5 (updated) with csl 3 pedals, the wheel vibration on brake works fine with the Porsche 918 rsr rim, but doesn't with mclaren v2 and the universal hub both updated with the new firmware.
Comments
Hi Marcel.
Obtained below before seeing your comment (I will attempt to downgrade firmware now).
With peddles, handbrake and gearstick disconnected and PC turned OFF here is another video showing the resets;
Timeline:
00:28 OLED Display updates - PBME no longer present
01:05 OLED Display updates - PBME present again "ATTENTION Enable Torque?" even though it is showing in the line above as "HI Trq."
02:52 OLED Display updates - PBME no longer present
02:54 OLED Display updates - PBME present again "ATTENTION Enable Torque?" even though it is showing in the line above as "HI Trq."
03:23 OLED Display updates - PBME no longer present
03:45 OLED Display updates - PBME present again "ATTENTION Enable Torque?" even though it is showing in the line above as "HI Trq."
03:48 OLED Display updates - PBME no longer present
04:57 OLED Display updates - "WARNING Steering wheel not supported Please update the firmware"
Yes, I know! But the same could be achieved by limiting the overall FFB to 80 which is all this setting does as you and Maurice have explained. Seems strange that this requires a separate setting and even stranger that it is now on by default. I've yet to hear from anybody who finds LIN on beneficial in practice - I believe even you and Maurice keep it off, despite all your protestations.
I dont know whats happening lately but I'm still on the last one 399 and Ive noticed in iRacing my DD2 gets micro-disconnects randomly. I would notice for literally a split second the wheel in game straightens out, while my hands are physically turned, and then it reconnects. It literally happens for half a second and comes back. I don't hear the USB disconnect sound (when there's issues like USB power conflicts and such), so im not sure what it could be. It's happened a few times in the last few days and could be very dangerous. It's happened 2 laps in a road right at the end of the long straight on nordschleife and almost caused me to lose the car at the end of the straight if it wouldve disconnected for a split second longer than it was.
I also just got an RMA'ed power supply so I hope it's not power from the power supply getting interrupted. I switched USB ports and will test more later to see if it was a USB Port issue. If it happens again, I'll plug it into another USB internal HUB that i have and test more. If it continues to happen then i might switch out the power supply and test that.
Anyone else noticed this?
I was suffering from minor disconnects, seemed to be interference affecting the USB signal. My issues were resolved by rerouting the USB cable away from power cables - also replaced the cable with one that may be better protected against EMI, shielded with ferrite cores.
I do have alot of EMI around me even though it's all shielded and grounded - im using a motion rig so that could be the issue creeping back up again. I'll try this other USB port - if it happens again I'll reroute the cable. Thank you for letting me know that - didnt think of that as an issue any more but it could be back.
Hello, here is mine.
Forgot to mention
Driver 401
Base Firmware 684
Motor Firmware 40
QR Firmware 6
Also tried to flash only the pedals in a laptop with the driver 401 and no luck
Same as everybody : need to disconnect usb pedals to start firmware manager. Maybe will try to connect directly to the base.
(PC driver 401 / WB FW 684 / WQR FW 6 / CSPedals 1.30)
Next time will shows: Wheel not supported, please change to SimuCube. ;) :D Fanatech drivers are a horror....
This driver also has issues with BattleEye, causing BSODS.
This can easily be tested by launching Tarkov...
352 is the latest driver that did not have this problem... Removing the newer drivers and installing the old driver will not help. You need to do a system restore back to when you had 352 installed...
Common Fanatec, fix it.
it could be an idea for Fanatec to explain why certain choices are made. I have turned of Linearity also, same goes for erasing the motor calibration, yeah we added the option to solve issue X but at the end of the day it’s better to remove the motor calibration.
To be honest, Fanatec was on the right way with drivers and firmware and the new “update manager” is nice but as shown many times in this thread the whole quality control is a mess. Simple things like including the right firmware, the fact that you have to disconnect pedals from the base to upgrade your base etcetera.
And then we haven’t even talked about the outstanding issues for direct drive bases that are open for ages.
The Fanatec hardware is fine but the software part is a mess if you ask me. I work as a developer myself and I know mistakes are made sometimes but the mistakes made with the last firmware / driver release makes me wonder how the current state of the code base is... probably not as good as they hope it should be.
Thank you Attila 😀
I have problem with pedals V3 update too.
After click "Open firmware update assistent" hapens nothings. Only two opened window dissapears.
I try what I read more threads up.
Uninstall drivers,restart,plug pedals, and after instal 401 software. Restart,open software, go to update, click "Open firmware update assistent" and.... that same. Two windows dissapears and manager wont open.
I try too run FwPedalsUpdate.exe directly ,but I see something like "try pedals to bootmode...". And nothing...
Good...what now? hmmmmm
One more time I going to Update and click not button "Open firmware update assistent" but RED writing " New firmware is ......blabla" .
And voala... its working!!!! :)
Maybe its only my fall ,but you try it too..
yes we do, the reason I disagreed with Armin back then :)
Hi everyone. I use a Pedals V3 connected directly to the CSW 2.5 with RS232.
Is it enough to update the drivers of the wheel base, or do I have to connect the Pedals V3 with the USB and update it?
pedals need to be connected via USB to be updated.
Ok, but if the pedal connected to the usb, freezing the updater... :D :D :D
Hey Guys, just to let you know that I still have the problem with the wheel that shuts down:
https://youtu.be/U0gFjEd5FqM
I do not think it's a driver issue, I contacted support. I do not have the freeze anymore, just the shuts down.
Problem: upgraded to new driver and firmware on DD2. All wheels upgraded and we'll fine. Podium hub, F1 wheel, BMW wheel, BUT McClaren gt3 wheel v 1 keeps saying caution wheel not recognized. I have reinstalled older and new drivers and nothing works.
Can't get the base to see the wheel. It's bricked. Anyway to reset it or bring it back? Thanks
did you try driver 401 yet?
Hello. I am still on an older firmware and reading such threads make me afraid of updating to newer drivers.
Except some small annoyances (eg sometimes I need to restart to have negative DR values, the kick when turning, off, etc) , everything is working great. However, 'even better than great' is the enemy of 'just great', so I have the fear of missing out.
Are the changes worth it for me to 'risk' updating? I am using a CSL for PS4 base (v1.0), PS4 steering wheel. I mean, are there any major differences, eg better ffb resolution/information, etc?
Thanks for your time and possible replies. I wish I had more time to experiment on my own.
Although I am very happy with my set so far, I have to agree with other commenters that UX-wise the driver installation is indeed a mess. There's a mix of final and beta drivers, and although I get the richness of the ecosystem, I still don't get why one needs more than a one-click driver installer.
I find having LIN On beneficial in practice. Having less spikes and brutal oscillations I am able to increase Strength in iRacing which gives a better feel for the grip of the tires on track.
Same thing happened to me and could not find any solution. Opened a ticket with Fanatec and still waiting to hear back. It is so frustrating...
If you have some concerns regarding firmware upgrades i totally understand them. At this moment i wouldn't recommend upgrading to any user unless you have an idea on how to troubleshoot things when it doesn't work as expected. Yes the new update manager is an improvement for people who aren't able to read a manual but other than that this release was quite a mess.
There were 3 releases in a very short period with issues that could have been prevented if the packages where tested properly before they got released, stuff got changed without any proper explanation (Linearity mode) on why this became a default setting. Besides that, the amount of changes and fixed issues are quite small, unless you have a set of V3 pedals or the new CSL hub i would keep it on the current version if you don't have any issues at the moment.
Then why are you still here? 🙄
Confirming this is working...
Clicking on the red message "There's a new firmware available..." in the update tab just bypasses the launch of the Firmware Manager, and starts the firmware updater the "old way", and you can update pedals firmware.
Thanks Benedikt.
Wheel Base Model (product ID): ... CSL Elite PS4
Steering Wheel Model (product ID): .... ClubSport Formula V2
Beta 401.
ACC PS4
I had to go back to a older version I found my self slower with this beta , I even had to change settings so I could drver the car around the track with out consistent mistakes, I am not say I am a great driver but using the beta 401 things had got alot worst.
I had one moment when I turned my wheel on and it went crazy rotating it was like it was trying to do 360 rotation that how hard it was hitting the end of its rotation I had to power off my wheel for it to stop.
Besides the mapping issues and the violent vibration when braking heavily some times. I noticed I can't use 640 steering lock in game & on the wheel like i did before (sensit) , it's like I have to start from fresh.
I noticed my rev display on the base stays on randomly & when in race it not sync to the display in-game I also noticed random disconnection, for example I went to get a drink come back & the wheel didn't respond I had to restart my wheel before it worked
I am thinking about trying to mix older driver with new drivers to see if I cannot least get the mapping sorted out because that along is loosing me a lot off time when thing don't work correctly.
I have a Bathurst racing coming up & driving with this update is hell around Bathurst I hit a wall every lap I was 6 sec off my already slow time & after A while started to adjust my wheel settings because that the only thing that changed, which I know is a bad thing but after a while you get fed up & need a solution.
Can you please sort out the mapping & make my wheel drivable again.
Hello,
I have an issue that is firmware related, I suppose.
I own a CSW 2.5 (updated) with csl 3 pedals, the wheel vibration on brake works fine with the Porsche 918 rsr rim, but doesn't with mclaren v2 and the universal hub both updated with the new firmware.
Thank you for your help
mclaren and universal hub don't have vibration motors.
Thank you