CSL DD Disconnecting mid game

Need help,


My Fanatec CSL DD stops/disconnects in the middle (or so) of the game, then I have to restart the computer and it's okay again, while it lasts.

It usually happens during F1 2021 game!

Also have already taken out the USB cable (while I'm still in the game) and put it back in but that doesn't solve the problem... must restart the computer.

I also have (as can be found on several forums) the CLS on compatibility mode (yellow) but still it happens.


My set consists of:


CSL Steering Wheel Mclaren GT3 V2

CSL Pedals


Can you please help me some of this is very annoying!


  • Sounds like you may be suffering from an issue that a number of us here have posted about recently.

    Might want to have a look through these threads for ideas on what you might be able to do:

  • check the shaft on the base.

  • Now someone on Reddit says that they were sent this by Fanatec:

    Which is it, 10 or 15 Nm? I'm not trying 15 Nm until confirmed officially. Mine was slightly below 10 Nm from factory.

  • Mine didn't start doing this until I got the WRC wheel. On my Mclaren rim never had the problem once. Then 3 weeks in I got the WRC and 2 days later it started disconnecting every other turn in Dirt 4.... wtf.

    I've done all recommended tightening and such.... anything else to try?

  • I had the same issue, tried everything exactly as outlined above. It worked for a couple of days, then it started happening again, and nothing I did would fix it. I think unfortunately it sounds like you'll need to RMA the base and possibly the WRC wheel as well, depending on what support tell you.

  • Ive noticed it only occurs when a drifting action is happening. Like sliding the wheel through my hands fast. If that makes sense. I've contacted fanatec and done the tightening of the tightening of the shaft. I sure wish the connection was more like the DD1-2 not a usb C. Seems like no matter what this problem will occur. After tightening the c clamp it only disconnects like twice a day. But I told them I'll give it a.week and note every disconnection. Just seems like the USB c is a weak point in the design.

  • I still have the same issue. I sended everything back twice already but still have the same issue. Got 2 new wheels and a new base but didn't help.

  • I put thread locker on the c clamp bolt and tightened the hell out of it. Let the goo cure for like 2 day. Or day and half. And it's been OK evernsince.

    When I tighted the screw so much it started to come out the other end. But just barely. They say 15nm tight but don't have one of those wrenches. The clamp is almost touching each other now. Bout 2-3mm gap. I'll send pic.

  • edited April 5
    I have the exact same problem.
    Have you solved it?
  • edited April 5

    I have the exact same problem. It has been two months since I opened an incident, and I had a full month RMA, without resolving. Fanatec support has not responded for a week now. They are very disappointed with Fanatec support, it seems their structure is too small for the sales they have.

    This is not a disconnection of the hub. It's like CSL DD is sending crazy input to USB port which crashes. Only restarting PC solves the problem. But it is impossible to play, my online rating is destroyed.

    It's ironic how this expensive equipment, which was supposed to improve my hobby, instead completely nullified it. My wife is probably paying Fanatec secretly, to get me to stop rimracing.

  • Have a look at installing some ferrite beads on your cables. I made a fairly lengthy post a few weeks ago about exactly what you describe: 


    I have a strong suspicion that something to do with the wheelbase motor, or the wireless QR, or the cabling itself (or some combination of the three) are not shielded properly and are either causing or are susceptible to EMI. After buying a bag of ferrite beads from Amazon and putting a bunch on all the cabling going in or out of my PC, my CSL DD has been trouble free for about the last two weeks or so. Whereas previously, I couldn't go more than a few hours without the wheel freezing and sending me crashing into the nearest wall.

  • Thank you very much it is exactly my situation. Yesterday I ordered a new usb 3.0 PCI card and today it arrived. At this point it will be useless, but we might as well try. I will also buy the ferrite.

    Yesterday I thought about making a rubber square to put under CSLDD. Only then I thought that the fixing bolts are made of metal. Could it make sense?

    But do so many people have this problem? Why did fanatec support not understand? I only had replacement of QR lite.

  • I've had the same thoughts about the metal bolts and also maybe adding some sort of thin rubber mat under my rig (it currently is just the wheelbase, mounted to a simple wheel stand (metal and aluminum), which sits on a thin towel that I've placed over the carpet where it rests so that the carpet doesn't get dirty.

    I sit on my couch while playing, which is made of cloth. I've noticed that often, when I get up, I'll have static electricity built up in me when I go to touch a door handle or something metal. Likely from having slid across the cloth sofa and out from behind the rig. I suppose it's possible (likely, even?) that while playing, there's enough of me moving and sliding around to build up a static charge that then gets transmitted into the rig, and thereby to the computer, causing it to freak out?

    I don't know. Like I said, the ferrite cores seem to have made a big difference. Hopefully they'll work for you too, and that will be the end of it. Please post here with any updates, I'm very curious to know what happens.

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