I had only tried it with NDP set to 0, DPR was always set to 100. Since I don't feel like installing a driver with the Base FW 69x at the moment, I can't answer it.
The problems with rFactor2 occurred during a 5 lap race while driving, I then repeated this race with driver 415 including its FW and with driver 429 including its FW and they did not occur here.
However, the rFactor2 problem explains to me the often perceived impression that the FFB changes after a pit stop.
Marcel, my feedback was intentionally not directed at any individuals - you might want to read it again.
My main criticism has repeatedly been directed at all those who are involved in the development but particularly those responsible for managing it.
But responsibility comes with accountability. Those who accept responsibility for "officially" testing should be prepared to accept the feedback that comes from being that being part of that group. Some appear reluctant to accept that any criticism is warranted.
BTW - everyone who downloads and feeds back on this forum (Beta Drivers) is by definition a beta tester. Which takes us back to where we started - that this cycle of broken development shows no signs of changing.
Can you maybe see if anything can be done to improve the quality of the releases that are dropped here for testing. They really need to be in a better state than this - the majority of the testing should be done by the closed beta group. There shouldn't be this many issues in the forum releases.
I just installed driver 436 and updated the CSL DD and McClaren GT3 wheel to the latest versions. I can’t find an option in the control panel to restore my tuning settings.
If the software can’t do it, where would the settings be stored so I can restore them manually?
:) Yeah that's why I wanted to report it. It's really the only issue I have left. For PC i can just use USB, but for PS5 I cannot. Thanks for the reply.
Thank you for the explanation. It would be good if you could ask because it’s specific to how the Fanatec wheels are mapped in the game, there’s no option to remap button 7. I have submitted to codemasters a few times to make it a mappable button but they never respond from a user submission perspective. I’ve seen other have the same issue.
Out of curiosity, I didn’t have a v1 McLaren wheel that I can speak to personally, but it’s my understanding v1 did have button 6 & 7, which are now buttons 22 & 23 on the v2 - why not just send 22 & 23 back to 6 & 7 and then the two wheels would match and there would be consistency across all of your wheels.
Reporting an issue, I’m running 437 and have DD Pro on PS5. F1 2021 on PS5 doesn’t recognize the wheel at all. All other games (WRC10, Dirt 2.0, GTS, ACC) and the main menu recognize it. Only one button works and that’s the PS button to bring up the home. If I use the PS control to make my way into settings, there’s nothing there for Fanatec.
I just setup the PS5 so I’m not sure if it was the same issue with prior driver versions. I also tried with both the McLaren v2 & WRC. All the firmware were manually flashed with this latest 437.
when I get a chance this week I can try PS compatibility mode.
When you click on the green update button in the Firmware Manager, a pop-up opens which you can't skip for 10 seconds, it lists those changes.
Sadly the CSL Elite 1.1 is not able to communicate the tuning menu settings with the driver, otherwise the change would have been more obvious because visible in the driver UI as well.
I understand that it can be easily overlooked, maybe we have to make the change somehow even more obvious than just in the update pop-up which people can click away. Open for suggestions.
Kudos to you for figuring it out through reading the changelog, not many do that. 👍️
When updating the firmware there is question before the update which asks you you want to save the tuning menu settings to automatically restore them after the update. Generally this should work automatically but we found out that sometimes either one or all of the settings can fail to get restored properly. We are working on the issue and could already make a fix for the next version which should significantly improve it.
If you want to be super sure, you can use FanaLab to save your settings permanently on the PC and also to save them per game or load them automatically for a specific game.
Meanwhile I've informed Codemasters and they did put it into their issue tracking to keep it in mind for F1 2022.
The mapping of the McLaren was changed once when the Formula V2 came out so they could be consistent, but the McLaren V2 which cam after then used the same mapping. Maybe the difference you mean is between the original state when the McLaren launched and the McLaren V2 now.
It makes me sad that the Podium line up doesn't get any love anymore since the CSL DD is released. I never used NFR on my DD2 and had the annoying jolts. And they are quite heavy if you have FEI at 100.
And who exactly said that Podium DD doesnt get any love anymore?
The mentioned issue you quoted which was found regarding NFR is actually on both Podium and CSL DD and of course it gets love to get the issue fixed. And Jolts are not related to NFR. In the meantime until they get fixed you can reduce FEI to 80 or so which already lowers the "impact" of a jolt (and makes the FFB smoother in general so you dont get unwanted grainy noises which is why I always use FEI 80 anyway).
Mine gets Love every day, it gets hugs and baths and even fresh underwear :).
There are priorities in fixing bugs. some firmware and driver issues might be lower prioritized than others, and therefore some features takes a bit more time than others.
Firmware rewriting takes years, its not as easy as people think even for big companies as Fanatec.
Firmware rewrites don’t take years of development, stop trying to talk (a banana ;-)) things straight. Firmware development for the DD wheelbases wasn’t on the level where it should have been last years. And even now after a year of promises new excuses are popping up why the “jolts” still haven’t been fixed.
If key features aren’t working properly from day one the product has been released and other fixes are more important than that you could say things aren’t going the right way and you are doing a terrible job as a software team.
that it takes years at Fanatec is because they didn’t had a clue where it came from and didn’t have a very capable software department for years (and sometimes I still doubt if it got any better).
I have a question if anyone can help. Are drivers potentially incompatible with some (older) systems?
I ask this because with more recent drivers, from v. 415 to v. 437, ACC locks at the start of any race with the >99% usage warning. Only a soft boot resets the PC. Also RaceRoom and AMS2 feel jumpie and weird, but don't lock completely like ACC.
Turning back to the previous driver, I had installed v.356 on this case, solves the problem, the games run normally.
I updated my motherboard BIOS hoping it could fix it, re-installed ACC from scratch, changed USB ports.... nothing worked, except reverting to v. 356 (tried driver versions 415,434,436 and 437, all gave the CPU usage problem in ACC and locked the game/PC)
Firmware fior WB, motor and wheel are all up to date, no problem there apparently.
DD1
Formula V2 wheel
Windows 10 64bits
Intel i7 4700k
32 GB RAM
EVGA GTX 1080
MB: Asus Maximus VIII Hero Alpha
System acquired in 2016, 6 years old... that's why I ask, could it be an hardware compatibility issue? USB ports, Chipset, CPU...?
I just got my Clubsport Shifter SQ and after connecting it via the base (CSL DD 8Nm - Shifter 1 port) and calibrating the shifter, my brake pedal (LCK) is super sensitive, where it was not before.
I used to use 35-55% BRF and had to push quite hard on the brake before locking wheels (AC, ACC, AMS2). Now I just need to press very gently with my toe to lock the wheels.
I have to adjust BRF up to 85-95% to be able to push hard on the brake before locking up.
Using Auto Setup for R3E previously was great, had to push the brake hard. But, now, just touching the pedal gently with my toe locks wheels.
But when I disconnect the shifter (unplug cable at shifter end) the previous behaviour does not return and the brake stays super sensitive.
So, which is the correct behaviour? 1) Low BRF with low sensitivity (harder push) or 2) Low BRF with high sensitivity (softer push)? I guess 2) is the correct as previous behaviour does not return upon shifter disconnection.
Driver and Firmwares are the same before and after attaching the shifter.
Lower BRF means the pedal is more sensitive and you need less force for Maximum braking input, higher BRF means the pedal is less sensitive and you need more force for Maximum braking input.
There is a On/Off switch already implemented which you can see after the 10sec waiting and it is already set to On by default. It's just not a switch but a checkbox.
Old Bases like CSW v1, CSW v2, CSL Elite v1 and CSL Elite v1.1 do not support this feature so that checkbox of course is not shown, instead the popup says that all settings will be reset to factory defaults after wheel base firmware update - there is no way to avoid this.
The 10 sec is just a timer so the user actively reads the highlights of the changelog so that for example important changes like the introduction of a new Standard and Advanced Tuning Menu will be recognized by the user so he is aware (or at least should be aware) but the timer has nothing to do with save/reload settings.
The one user who asked the question that he only has two settings after the Base Update had a CSL Elite v1.1 which as explained does not support the TM restore feature, therefore the base restarted in the new Standard Tuning Menu mode with reset settings and only 2 settings available - which he then found out by himself by re-reading the changelogs as he did not read the changelog during the 10second waiting time ;)
Comments
I had only tried it with NDP set to 0, DPR was always set to 100. Since I don't feel like installing a driver with the Base FW 69x at the moment, I can't answer it.
The problems with rFactor2 occurred during a 5 lap race while driving, I then repeated this race with driver 415 including its FW and with driver 429 including its FW and they did not occur here.
However, the rFactor2 problem explains to me the often perceived impression that the FFB changes after a pit stop.
Marcel, my feedback was intentionally not directed at any individuals - you might want to read it again.
My main criticism has repeatedly been directed at all those who are involved in the development but particularly those responsible for managing it.
But responsibility comes with accountability. Those who accept responsibility for "officially" testing should be prepared to accept the feedback that comes from being that being part of that group. Some appear reluctant to accept that any criticism is warranted.
BTW - everyone who downloads and feeds back on this forum (Beta Drivers) is by definition a beta tester. Which takes us back to where we started - that this cycle of broken development shows no signs of changing.
Can you maybe see if anything can be done to improve the quality of the releases that are dropped here for testing. They really need to be in a better state than this - the majority of the testing should be done by the closed beta group. There shouldn't be this many issues in the forum releases.
I just installed driver 436 and updated the CSL DD and McClaren GT3 wheel to the latest versions. I can’t find an option in the control panel to restore my tuning settings.
If the software can’t do it, where would the settings be stored so I can restore them manually?
Thanks.
:) Yeah that's why I wanted to report it. It's really the only issue I have left. For PC i can just use USB, but for PS5 I cannot. Thanks for the reply.
Thank you for the explanation. It would be good if you could ask because it’s specific to how the Fanatec wheels are mapped in the game, there’s no option to remap button 7. I have submitted to codemasters a few times to make it a mappable button but they never respond from a user submission perspective. I’ve seen other have the same issue.
Out of curiosity, I didn’t have a v1 McLaren wheel that I can speak to personally, but it’s my understanding v1 did have button 6 & 7, which are now buttons 22 & 23 on the v2 - why not just send 22 & 23 back to 6 & 7 and then the two wheels would match and there would be consistency across all of your wheels.
Reporting an issue, I’m running 437 and have DD Pro on PS5. F1 2021 on PS5 doesn’t recognize the wheel at all. All other games (WRC10, Dirt 2.0, GTS, ACC) and the main menu recognize it. Only one button works and that’s the PS button to bring up the home. If I use the PS control to make my way into settings, there’s nothing there for Fanatec.
I just setup the PS5 so I’m not sure if it was the same issue with prior driver versions. I also tried with both the McLaren v2 & WRC. All the firmware were manually flashed with this latest 437.
when I get a chance this week I can try PS compatibility mode.
It means it’s never coming. As I said a year ago it’s obviously a hardware issue.
because it’s been 2 years
Here here. What a complete shambles this has been. Had the dd2 for 2 years and don’t even feel like I want to use it.
quote
You can use this application to "revive" the button module
When you click on the green update button in the Firmware Manager, a pop-up opens which you can't skip for 10 seconds, it lists those changes.
Sadly the CSL Elite 1.1 is not able to communicate the tuning menu settings with the driver, otherwise the change would have been more obvious because visible in the driver UI as well.
I understand that it can be easily overlooked, maybe we have to make the change somehow even more obvious than just in the update pop-up which people can click away. Open for suggestions.
Kudos to you for figuring it out through reading the changelog, not many do that. 👍️
Then it seems there are two different issues, but turning DPR off should fix one of them until the game fixes the damper things.
When updating the firmware there is question before the update which asks you you want to save the tuning menu settings to automatically restore them after the update. Generally this should work automatically but we found out that sometimes either one or all of the settings can fail to get restored properly. We are working on the issue and could already make a fix for the next version which should significantly improve it.
If you want to be super sure, you can use FanaLab to save your settings permanently on the PC and also to save them per game or load them automatically for a specific game.
Meanwhile I've informed Codemasters and they did put it into their issue tracking to keep it in mind for F1 2022.
The mapping of the McLaren was changed once when the Formula V2 came out so they could be consistent, but the McLaren V2 which cam after then used the same mapping. Maybe the difference you mean is between the original state when the McLaren launched and the McLaren V2 now.
I usually take a snap shot of each settings ... just in case the control panel does not save, you know you have a backup of your settings.
Using it in compatibility mode (purple power button LED) should solve it. F1 2022 will feature it in native mode.
It makes me sad that the Podium line up doesn't get any love anymore since the CSL DD is released. I never used NFR on my DD2 and had the annoying jolts. And they are quite heavy if you have FEI at 100.
And who exactly said that Podium DD doesnt get any love anymore?
The mentioned issue you quoted which was found regarding NFR is actually on both Podium and CSL DD and of course it gets love to get the issue fixed. And Jolts are not related to NFR. In the meantime until they get fixed you can reduce FEI to 80 or so which already lowers the "impact" of a jolt (and makes the FFB smoother in general so you dont get unwanted grainy noises which is why I always use FEI 80 anyway).
Okay. I selected the auto restore option but the settings weren’t restored. Glad to hear a fix is coming.
Would the settings be written on a file somewhere on my PC if the update intended to restore them?
If so, how could I access this file?
Thank you.
Mine gets Love every day, it gets hugs and baths and even fresh underwear :).
There are priorities in fixing bugs. some firmware and driver issues might be lower prioritized than others, and therefore some features takes a bit more time than others.
Firmware rewriting takes years, its not as easy as people think even for big companies as Fanatec.
Firmware rewrites don’t take years of development, stop trying to talk (a banana ;-)) things straight. Firmware development for the DD wheelbases wasn’t on the level where it should have been last years. And even now after a year of promises new excuses are popping up why the “jolts” still haven’t been fixed.
If key features aren’t working properly from day one the product has been released and other fixes are more important than that you could say things aren’t going the right way and you are doing a terrible job as a software team.
that it takes years at Fanatec is because they didn’t had a clue where it came from and didn’t have a very capable software department for years (and sometimes I still doubt if it got any better).
I have a question if anyone can help. Are drivers potentially incompatible with some (older) systems?
I ask this because with more recent drivers, from v. 415 to v. 437, ACC locks at the start of any race with the >99% usage warning. Only a soft boot resets the PC. Also RaceRoom and AMS2 feel jumpie and weird, but don't lock completely like ACC.
Turning back to the previous driver, I had installed v.356 on this case, solves the problem, the games run normally.
I updated my motherboard BIOS hoping it could fix it, re-installed ACC from scratch, changed USB ports.... nothing worked, except reverting to v. 356 (tried driver versions 415,434,436 and 437, all gave the CPU usage problem in ACC and locked the game/PC)
Firmware fior WB, motor and wheel are all up to date, no problem there apparently.
DD1
Formula V2 wheel
Windows 10 64bits
Intel i7 4700k
32 GB RAM
EVGA GTX 1080
MB: Asus Maximus VIII Hero Alpha
System acquired in 2016, 6 years old... that's why I ask, could it be an hardware compatibility issue? USB ports, Chipset, CPU...?
Thanks in advance
JP Miranda
Make a simple on/off switch with on as default.
I think most user will appriciate it.
On/Off Switch for what exactly?
I just got my Clubsport Shifter SQ and after connecting it via the base (CSL DD 8Nm - Shifter 1 port) and calibrating the shifter, my brake pedal (LCK) is super sensitive, where it was not before.
I used to use 35-55% BRF and had to push quite hard on the brake before locking wheels (AC, ACC, AMS2). Now I just need to press very gently with my toe to lock the wheels.
I have to adjust BRF up to 85-95% to be able to push hard on the brake before locking up.
Using Auto Setup for R3E previously was great, had to push the brake hard. But, now, just touching the pedal gently with my toe locks wheels.
But when I disconnect the shifter (unplug cable at shifter end) the previous behaviour does not return and the brake stays super sensitive.
So, which is the correct behaviour? 1) Low BRF with low sensitivity (harder push) or 2) Low BRF with high sensitivity (softer push)? I guess 2) is the correct as previous behaviour does not return upon shifter disconnection.
Driver and Firmwares are the same before and after attaching the shifter.
Driver: 437
CSL DD:
Wheel Base: 1.1.5.4
Motor: 1.0.2.2
CSW Formula v2.5: 44
Wireless QR: 6.0.0.1
CSL P/LCK: 1.6
2 is the correct behaviour, yes.
Lower BRF means the pedal is more sensitive and you need less force for Maximum braking input, higher BRF means the pedal is less sensitive and you need more force for Maximum braking input.
For save the tuning settings when you update your base.
On/off switch instead of the 10sec. wait to say "Yes, i want to save my tuning settings.".
There is a On/Off switch already implemented which you can see after the 10sec waiting and it is already set to On by default. It's just not a switch but a checkbox.
Old Bases like CSW v1, CSW v2, CSL Elite v1 and CSL Elite v1.1 do not support this feature so that checkbox of course is not shown, instead the popup says that all settings will be reset to factory defaults after wheel base firmware update - there is no way to avoid this.
The 10 sec is just a timer so the user actively reads the highlights of the changelog so that for example important changes like the introduction of a new Standard and Advanced Tuning Menu will be recognized by the user so he is aware (or at least should be aware) but the timer has nothing to do with save/reload settings.
The one user who asked the question that he only has two settings after the Base Update had a CSL Elite v1.1 which as explained does not support the TM restore feature, therefore the base restarted in the new Standard Tuning Menu mode with reset settings and only 2 settings available - which he then found out by himself by re-reading the changelogs as he did not read the changelog during the 10second waiting time ;)
correction:CPU i7-6700K @4.00GHz
MAXIMUS VIII HERO ALPHA BIOS 3801
BIOS : Version 3801 2018/04/27 8.03 MBytes
Also have updated the Chipset of Motherboard to the latest in ASUS support page: Version 11.7.0.1040 2017/11/01
thxs