Hey I have the exact same set up. Are you running into wheel oscillation issues with other games? My wheel goes crazy at stand still when pressing my brakes.
or is ur vibration on ur throttle pedal working? Mine stopped
works fine in f1 22 , but in AC or grand toruismo the wheel oscillates like crazy
I’m not having any of the issues you are having but I did notice something like that happen when my settings in game and in the Fanatec dashboard were weird. Try looking at the recommended settings online or get the new Fanalab software that supports f122 and use the default settings. If I were you I’d also take a deep dive into researching the settings and understanding each and every one of them, if the settings turn out to be the reason you’re facing your problems.
how do i roll back to a past firmware for the wheel base? i cannot find this anywhere and a youtube video explaining how to do it would be highly appreciated
Click the Downgrade Button in the Firmware Manager and select a Driver/Firmware/Year range, then uninstall the driver after motor and Base Firmware downgrade and install a driver from the chosen range.
But downgrading is not recommended. Only downgrade if you have serious issues with a new Firmware which you are sure the old Firmware does not have.
Ah okay, GT DD and CSL DD do not support the Downgrade Feature (as it's not recommended to do so, only if you have serious issues). It's only implemented for Podium DD as that one was the problematic one for some users with Driver 442.
If you REALLY want to downgrade rhe firmware on a GT DD then you need to uninstall the current Driver, reinstall a different older driver and manually flash the Firmwares on your own. But as said, to do so is not recommended, Especially not if you dont know what you are doing.
Why do you want to downgrade in the first place? There is no issue on the new GT DD firmware which any older Firmware didnt had. There is literally no reason to downgrade.
i have major ocd when it comes to this so i just wanted to revert to the last public release firmware so thats the only reason. i am currently using 1.1.7.6
I have the GT DD PRO W/ boost kit, shifter, mclaren wheel, and v3 pedals. Not sure if it was version 443 or pedal firmware 1.35. I just installed 439 on the base and everything and about to install 1.32 on the pedals
Ive seen a few others in here having issues as well. It also made me take my brf from 92 to 35 bc it would only go up 50% with the same force ive always used. Maybe just a glitch in the matrix we will see when official comes out. If it helps im using the pedals with rj12 to wheel. And i play on ps5. Mainly GT7 lately
Do you also notice the input delay when testing the input in the Fanatec Control Panel UI on the PC?
Different BRF strength is normal because previously you were able to calibrate them wrong when clicking "max" in the Driver UI when BRF was not at MAX. This is corrected now but people who calibrated the pedals max value with the wrong method need to calibrate again first properly on old FW 1.30 (included in the release as previous FW when doing a manual Pedal Firmware) with BRF set to MAX and then clicking the "max" calibration button in the Driver UI and then flasdh again to new FIrmware where the "max" button is replaced by a BRF hint so you no longer can set a new max calibration as its handled by the BRF setting now exclusively.
I honestly am not smart enough to think of looking in the pc program and now ive flashed everything back. Going to see if it was a placebo effect or if i have a different issue somewhere else.
All that stuff you mentioned about calibrating do i need to do anythinf special now that my pedals are on 1.32 or can i fust go in set my min and then adjust brf for max?
Thanks for all the info and taking time to speak with me. My 1 final question. Can you recconend me 1 product (not type of product) that i should use to lube amd service my BPK elastomers
This is why i get hung up. The grease that came with it was liquidy. I misplaced my bottle. Amd i feel like a solid grease like that would be too thick
It's fine. Red Rubber grease is not solid. It's not too thick. And it has the advantage (unsurprisingly) of not causing degradation of rubbers as it is not petroleum based.
Hello, I'm still having this same disconnection from the PS5 problem with my DD1 on beta firmware 443. Even though the beta firmware says that this issue should now be fixed, I had another disconnection yesterday July 31, 2022. Have tried to change usb inputs and it still does it. No issues while playing on pc, just randomly disconnects while playing on ps5. I have to turn off the base and turn in back on in order to get it to work again.
I did some more testing on the CSP V3 brake pedal delay:
As I commented before, there is a significant delay when plugged in directly to my F1 DD1 PS4 (I only play on PC though) base with a RJ12 cable. In all games, as well as in the Fanatec Control Panel. Rolling back to a previous CSP V3 version, the delay is gone but the previous problems of course came back (input flickering).
However when plugged into the PC directly with a USB cable, the delay is almost gone, pretty much unnoticeable in game. It works perfectly and is definitely a big improvement over the older versions! However I am forced to use it this way now, it would be much more convenient to plug it into the base directly with the same performance.
AC tends to vibrate when braking and getting close to a stand still, the new GT7 produces vibrations when driving between 5-30kph and having slick tires. It's coming from the game and there is not much you can do about it on the wheel side.
I'm using the original McLaren wheel with the quick release on a CSL PS4 base. When i updated to the new 443 driver it failed when the wheel was updating. I found that it was missing a pin. I replaced the wiring harness and pin ring but it still wont update. When I plug the wheel into the wheel base, it brings up the updater but it doesn't recognize my wheel base or wheel and the wheel base light blinks like it is updating. I can turn it all off, remove the wheel, put on my BME wheel and everything works fine.
Having an issue where the ITM screen freezes in ACC. When starting a new lap or crossing the finish line, sometimes the ITM will unfreeze, but it will usually re-freeze again within the lap or shortly after. I show telemetry like gear, Speed, ABS settings etc.
You mention ABS settings, does that mean you are always on page 3?
Do you have an automatic page change set up for a different page which might get triggered in that moment like one for "Lap", "Position" or "Best Lap Time"? Would the issue also happen if you disable the automatic page changing?
Comments
Hey I have the exact same set up. Are you running into wheel oscillation issues with other games? My wheel goes crazy at stand still when pressing my brakes.
or is ur vibration on ur throttle pedal working? Mine stopped
works fine in f1 22 , but in AC or grand toruismo the wheel oscillates like crazy
I’m not having any of the issues you are having but I did notice something like that happen when my settings in game and in the Fanatec dashboard were weird. Try looking at the recommended settings online or get the new Fanalab software that supports f122 and use the default settings. If I were you I’d also take a deep dive into researching the settings and understanding each and every one of them, if the settings turn out to be the reason you’re facing your problems.
how do i roll back to a past firmware for the wheel base? i cannot find this anywhere and a youtube video explaining how to do it would be highly appreciated
Click the Downgrade Button in the Firmware Manager and select a Driver/Firmware/Year range, then uninstall the driver after motor and Base Firmware downgrade and install a driver from the chosen range.
But downgrading is not recommended. Only downgrade if you have serious issues with a new Firmware which you are sure the old Firmware does not have.
i do not have this option im using the gt dd pro and all that comes up is to flash the firmware with no options to change which version
Ah okay, GT DD and CSL DD do not support the Downgrade Feature (as it's not recommended to do so, only if you have serious issues). It's only implemented for Podium DD as that one was the problematic one for some users with Driver 442.
If you REALLY want to downgrade rhe firmware on a GT DD then you need to uninstall the current Driver, reinstall a different older driver and manually flash the Firmwares on your own. But as said, to do so is not recommended, Especially not if you dont know what you are doing.
Why do you want to downgrade in the first place? There is no issue on the new GT DD firmware which any older Firmware didnt had. There is literally no reason to downgrade.
I just had to reverse back to 439 since 443 gives me noticable input delay on my brake on my V3 pedals
i have major ocd when it comes to this so i just wanted to revert to the last public release firmware so thats the only reason. i am currently using 1.1.7.6
Which Wheel Base do you have?
I have the GT DD PRO W/ boost kit, shifter, mclaren wheel, and v3 pedals. Not sure if it was version 443 or pedal firmware 1.35. I just installed 439 on the base and everything and about to install 1.32 on the pedals
Very strange. I just tested the CSP v3 with Firmware 1.35 on my P DD2 and GT DD PRO and I dont have any kind of noticable input delay at all...
Ive seen a few others in here having issues as well. It also made me take my brf from 92 to 35 bc it would only go up 50% with the same force ive always used. Maybe just a glitch in the matrix we will see when official comes out. If it helps im using the pedals with rj12 to wheel. And i play on ps5. Mainly GT7 lately
Do you also notice the input delay when testing the input in the Fanatec Control Panel UI on the PC?
Different BRF strength is normal because previously you were able to calibrate them wrong when clicking "max" in the Driver UI when BRF was not at MAX. This is corrected now but people who calibrated the pedals max value with the wrong method need to calibrate again first properly on old FW 1.30 (included in the release as previous FW when doing a manual Pedal Firmware) with BRF set to MAX and then clicking the "max" calibration button in the Driver UI and then flasdh again to new FIrmware where the "max" button is replaced by a BRF hint so you no longer can set a new max calibration as its handled by the BRF setting now exclusively.
I honestly am not smart enough to think of looking in the pc program and now ive flashed everything back. Going to see if it was a placebo effect or if i have a different issue somewhere else.
All that stuff you mentioned about calibrating do i need to do anythinf special now that my pedals are on 1.32 or can i fust go in set my min and then adjust brf for max?
You can just set the min and max just fine but set your Max with BRF set to MAX as well, thats the whole key point for a proper BRF calibration.
Thanks for all the info and taking time to speak with me. My 1 final question. Can you recconend me 1 product (not type of product) that i should use to lube amd service my BPK elastomers
This is why i get hung up. The grease that came with it was liquidy. I misplaced my bottle. Amd i feel like a solid grease like that would be too thick
It's fine. Red Rubber grease is not solid. It's not too thick. And it has the advantage (unsurprisingly) of not causing degradation of rubbers as it is not petroleum based.
Hello, I'm still having this same disconnection from the PS5 problem with my DD1 on beta firmware 443. Even though the beta firmware says that this issue should now be fixed, I had another disconnection yesterday July 31, 2022. Have tried to change usb inputs and it still does it. No issues while playing on pc, just randomly disconnects while playing on ps5. I have to turn off the base and turn in back on in order to get it to work again.
I did some more testing on the CSP V3 brake pedal delay:
As I commented before, there is a significant delay when plugged in directly to my F1 DD1 PS4 (I only play on PC though) base with a RJ12 cable. In all games, as well as in the Fanatec Control Panel. Rolling back to a previous CSP V3 version, the delay is gone but the previous problems of course came back (input flickering).
However when plugged into the PC directly with a USB cable, the delay is almost gone, pretty much unnoticeable in game. It works perfectly and is definitely a big improvement over the older versions! However I am forced to use it this way now, it would be much more convenient to plug it into the base directly with the same performance.
On the DD Pro, randomly, after exit and enter race, wheel gets stiffer. Then after exit to menu again, FFB gets back to normal
That's a known issue as listed in the Known issues in the first post.
AC tends to vibrate when braking and getting close to a stand still, the new GT7 produces vibrations when driving between 5-30kph and having slick tires. It's coming from the game and there is not much you can do about it on the wheel side.
Thanks for the report, we will look into it as it was reported from some others as well.
I'm using the original McLaren wheel with the quick release on a CSL PS4 base. When i updated to the new 443 driver it failed when the wheel was updating. I found that it was missing a pin. I replaced the wiring harness and pin ring but it still wont update. When I plug the wheel into the wheel base, it brings up the updater but it doesn't recognize my wheel base or wheel and the wheel base light blinks like it is updating. I can turn it all off, remove the wheel, put on my BME wheel and everything works fine.
Any ideas?
MY DD1 keeps turning it self off after 5 seconds after I updated it. It gives me this error
"Wireless Quick Release Update Mode Error: Connect device failed(Error: Initial ping failure: No response received for ping command.).
Power OFF the wheel base and retry update If the problem persists, please contact FANATEC support."
WQR issues are 99% hardware issues which cant be fixed by the customer.
So best option is to contact the support.
Having an issue where the ITM screen freezes in ACC. When starting a new lap or crossing the finish line, sometimes the ITM will unfreeze, but it will usually re-freeze again within the lap or shortly after. I show telemetry like gear, Speed, ABS settings etc.
Using latest beta drivers and firmware.
DD2 and CSW Fv2 with APM.
Is it only happening in ACC?
You mention ABS settings, does that mean you are always on page 3?
Do you have an automatic page change set up for a different page which might get triggered in that moment like one for "Lap", "Position" or "Best Lap Time"? Would the issue also happen if you disable the automatic page changing?