I just wanted to say the hotfix on page 8 (it won't let me quote it and post a comment for some reason) looks like it fixed my own issue on my CS DD+ of momentary FFB loss/wheel reset during racing. I was experiencing this on both my PC and PS5 with the following equipment (all connected through the wheelbase) and all relevant 457 drivers from the first post in this thread.
I cannot recall if this was happening with my M4 GT3 wheel or not; I did a 20 lap endurance race in FM8 on my PC so I doubt it was. I was previously experiencing cutouts as soon as I'd get 1-2 laps into a race and it would continue to get more frequent over the course of the race. I noticed some correlation between high speed/high force turns (I'm at 85% FFB on the wheel and 100% in FM). I also noticed that Fanalab would stop recognizing the wheel hub/PBME during these events as it would flash and reset whatever screen I was on (it's on a second monitor when I race and I could see it blank out then refresh on the ITM, LED, Game Profile, etc. pages).
Hopefully this helps and isn't just a restatement (I haven't read all 30+ pages).
Glad it’s working for you. In my case, I’m still having the momentary freeze with the 2.1.0.4 base hotfix + 1.1.0.3 WQR. For me, I don’t think it’s related to high speed/high torque turns since I’ve had the freezes while driving in a straight line down the long straight in Sarthe. I have the wheel at 100% FFB and only 4 (out of 10) in GT7 settings.
When you followed the latest instructions from Marcel to tighten the screws around the pins of the wheel side QR then you should contact Marcel to get your base exchanged as it's very likely a hardware issue in your case when you still have the disconnection issue with Base FW 2.1.0.4 and QR 1.1.0.3.
Yes Marcel has already contacted me regarding an exchange so that engineering can analyze my base. I’m still not convinced it’s a hardware issue because it is very stable with 455 base + 456 wqr firmware. I only had one instance of disconnection with this combo.
Hello simracers, I just bought a second hand formula V2.5 wheel to replace my standard GT DD pro Wheel. The v2.5 has a QR2 and the DD pro wheel a QR2 lite.
I run the 457 drivers with latest firmwares. I play GT7 on PS5.
No problem with the DD pro wheel whatsoever, but with the V2.5 wheel I experienced some random inputs bugs (mainly upshift paddle and half of the buttons won't respond for a moment then come back to life).
I feel like this a connection problem on the wheel side QR2 pins.
Really tightening he pins on wheel side qr is the fix? Was this not just something 2 people thought cured there’s? Surely this can’t be the issue most are having with the 3 second disconnect issue?
Its just an idea and one thing to check as it fixed the issue for some so apparently when the screws are loose then the issue CAN happen ..................
Thats most likely not the root cause for the majority of disconnections though, no.
Did some more testing tonight in FM8 on my PC. 457 + hotfix 2.1.0.4 on my DD+ (and 1.1.0.1 on the QR2) had the following results with the wheels/versions specified.
CS XBOX v2: 2 / PBMR 46.141.55.134 / CS paddles - No FFB cutouts (3-4 hours playing), but LED on PBMR does not work correctly (though I got it to last night somehow).
CS XBOX v2: 2 / PMBE 24 / CS paddles - FFB cutouts start after 1 lap, continues to get worse as the races go on and will lose FFB and ITM regularly for 3-4 seconds, sometimes back to back. I use ITM page 1 (with lap, pos, laptime, last lap) so not sure if this has anything to do with it. In the driver/firmware app, this also often fails to recognize the PMBE firmware version and displays it as 1 instead of 24. The FFB cutout does not seem more or less prevalent to whether it shows 1 or 24 because I've seen it happen during both scenarios, but whatever the root cause of that is may be coming into play somehow. I did try tightening the torx screws on the QR2 (with plastic washer), but this did not make any difference.
BMW M4 GT3: 9 - No disconnects, but it takes a few detach/reattach cycles to get all the buttons lit up correctly. I also ran this wheel over 2+ hours of racing.
I also have a Podium hub/APM paddles with version 6 firmware and PBME 24 that I have not tested yet. For me, most of the issues seem to be with the PMBE. I do also have the sporadic shifter issues with the XBOX v2/PBME/CS combo and the firmware versions above; this may or may not be related.
Alright, finished off my endurance races in FM8 on PC today and used M4 GT3 (over an hour straight, no issues), Podium hub/PMBE/APM (again, over an hour, no issues), and then CS Xbox V2 hub/PBME/CS paddles and I couldn't get through 3 laps without it not registering upshifts and after that the FFB cutouts and Fanalab UI resets started.
So at least for me, it really seems that XBOX v2/PBME combo is very bad, but the other three combos I regularly use are perfectly fine. Keep in mind that I spent 3+ hours yesterday with XBOX v2/PBMR/CS and had no issues (aside from the known LCD issues on the PBMR).
Can someone please explain me, or link me the page where it is explained, which is the best combo of firmwares to install to stop, or at list limit the loss of FFB?
I`m aware of the tightening of the screws, I was just wandering which is the best combo of FW, if there is one.
Hello. I think I already commented a few pages ago that those who had ITM on the steering wheel or base (especially the steering wheel) would try to remove it from fanalab. I don't suffer from disconnections but phantom presses from the mouse's funky switch. And the camera moved in the middle of the race when I pressed the menu button on the steering wheel. It occurred to me to remove the ITM and now it works perfectly. Losing the ITM of course. And now what I'm left with is that I need to dial 3 or 4 presses sometimes for the funky rotary switch to dial one. So I would try removing ITM
Totally agree Allan. It is just a solution for us and for the moment to be able to "enjoy" our base. In fact, Fanatec just answered me that I sent my PBME with RMA without guarantee that I would have to pay of course because they tell me that my PBME is broken When I told them that the PBME IS NOT THE PROBLEM!!. since if I connect it to my old DD1 everything works perfectly. I will have to send videos of how it is working on my DD1 and wait another three weeks for a response!!
Let's say that because of this rule of three you ALL have a broken PBME!!...it's not that the controllers or the DD+ itself are bad. It is now the fault of the PBME (irony mode ON)
“A small “ITM” icon in the bottom right of the BME display shows if ITM is accessible. To scroll through the screens, press and hold the Tuning Button while rotating the FunkySwitch left or right.
To access ITM on the Podium Base display, press and hold the Tuning Button while pressing UP with the FunkySwitch, which will show the legacy screen and a small “ITM” icon in the bottom right if ITM is accessible. Scroll through screens by keeping the Tuning Button held down while pressing left or right with the FunkySwitch.
NOTE: ITM functions require the use of FanaLab on a Windows PC.”
On a console there is no ITM support at this time AFAIK. ITM is not active unless there is something like Fanalab sending data - nothing to do on the wheel if no ITM data is being sent to it
Comments
Guys the main problem most people are having with drop off in ffb for 3 seconds then recovers. Is there any news on this since for a fix? Dd+
David Mullally
i think they to have disconnect fix what they been testing but you need send pm to Marcel Pfister for get that if i'm correct
Maybe Marcel can confirm.
I just wanted to say the hotfix on page 8 (it won't let me quote it and post a comment for some reason) looks like it fixed my own issue on my CS DD+ of momentary FFB loss/wheel reset during racing. I was experiencing this on both my PC and PS5 with the following equipment (all connected through the wheelbase) and all relevant 457 drivers from the first post in this thread.
CS DD+ / Podium Hub (and CS V2 Xbox Hub) / PBME / APM (and CS paddles) / CS v3i pedals / CS 1.5 shifter / CS 1.5 handbrake
I cannot recall if this was happening with my M4 GT3 wheel or not; I did a 20 lap endurance race in FM8 on my PC so I doubt it was. I was previously experiencing cutouts as soon as I'd get 1-2 laps into a race and it would continue to get more frequent over the course of the race. I noticed some correlation between high speed/high force turns (I'm at 85% FFB on the wheel and 100% in FM). I also noticed that Fanalab would stop recognizing the wheel hub/PBME during these events as it would flash and reset whatever screen I was on (it's on a second monitor when I race and I could see it blank out then refresh on the ITM, LED, Game Profile, etc. pages).
Hopefully this helps and isn't just a restatement (I haven't read all 30+ pages).
@Jason Lindeman
Glad it’s working for you. In my case, I’m still having the momentary freeze with the 2.1.0.4 base hotfix + 1.1.0.3 WQR. For me, I don’t think it’s related to high speed/high torque turns since I’ve had the freezes while driving in a straight line down the long straight in Sarthe. I have the wheel at 100% FFB and only 4 (out of 10) in GT7 settings.
When you followed the latest instructions from Marcel to tighten the screws around the pins of the wheel side QR then you should contact Marcel to get your base exchanged as it's very likely a hardware issue in your case when you still have the disconnection issue with Base FW 2.1.0.4 and QR 1.1.0.3.
See here: https://forum.fanatec.com/discussion/comment/127343#Comment_127343
hi. I am having issue installing public drive 455 on pC. Please find the log attached.
@Maurice
Yes Marcel has already contacted me regarding an exchange so that engineering can analyze my base. I’m still not convinced it’s a hardware issue because it is very stable with 455 base + 456 wqr firmware. I only had one instance of disconnection with this combo.
Hello simracers, I just bought a second hand formula V2.5 wheel to replace my standard GT DD pro Wheel. The v2.5 has a QR2 and the DD pro wheel a QR2 lite.
I run the 457 drivers with latest firmwares. I play GT7 on PS5.
No problem with the DD pro wheel whatsoever, but with the V2.5 wheel I experienced some random inputs bugs (mainly upshift paddle and half of the buttons won't respond for a moment then come back to life).
I feel like this a connection problem on the wheel side QR2 pins.
Any idea or suggestions how to fix it?
Really tightening he pins on wheel side qr is the fix? Was this not just something 2 people thought cured there’s? Surely this can’t be the issue most are having with the 3 second disconnect issue?
Its just an idea and one thing to check as it fixed the issue for some so apparently when the screws are loose then the issue CAN happen ..................
Thats most likely not the root cause for the majority of disconnections though, no.
Ok thanks.
Did some more testing tonight in FM8 on my PC. 457 + hotfix 2.1.0.4 on my DD+ (and 1.1.0.1 on the QR2) had the following results with the wheels/versions specified.
CS XBOX v2: 2 / PBMR 46.141.55.134 / CS paddles - No FFB cutouts (3-4 hours playing), but LED on PBMR does not work correctly (though I got it to last night somehow).
CS XBOX v2: 2 / PMBE 24 / CS paddles - FFB cutouts start after 1 lap, continues to get worse as the races go on and will lose FFB and ITM regularly for 3-4 seconds, sometimes back to back. I use ITM page 1 (with lap, pos, laptime, last lap) so not sure if this has anything to do with it. In the driver/firmware app, this also often fails to recognize the PMBE firmware version and displays it as 1 instead of 24. The FFB cutout does not seem more or less prevalent to whether it shows 1 or 24 because I've seen it happen during both scenarios, but whatever the root cause of that is may be coming into play somehow. I did try tightening the torx screws on the QR2 (with plastic washer), but this did not make any difference.
BMW M4 GT3: 9 - No disconnects, but it takes a few detach/reattach cycles to get all the buttons lit up correctly. I also ran this wheel over 2+ hours of racing.
I also have a Podium hub/APM paddles with version 6 firmware and PBME 24 that I have not tested yet. For me, most of the issues seem to be with the PMBE. I do also have the sporadic shifter issues with the XBOX v2/PBME/CS combo and the firmware versions above; this may or may not be related.
i know that my DD2 completely freeze when i was testing once the ITM . and needed make restart. it could be something todo with that yes
i was using they demo code what is inside sdk.
maybe this info helps them little maybe not.
it could cause also dd/dd+ freezes if they use same stuff. i not know.
Alright, finished off my endurance races in FM8 on PC today and used M4 GT3 (over an hour straight, no issues), Podium hub/PMBE/APM (again, over an hour, no issues), and then CS Xbox V2 hub/PBME/CS paddles and I couldn't get through 3 laps without it not registering upshifts and after that the FFB cutouts and Fanalab UI resets started.
So at least for me, it really seems that XBOX v2/PBME combo is very bad, but the other three combos I regularly use are perfectly fine. Keep in mind that I spent 3+ hours yesterday with XBOX v2/PBMR/CS and had no issues (aside from the known LCD issues on the PBMR).
the worst bugs are buffer overrun bugs, if something like this happens by developer error you may end with unexpected results.
and years off try figure out what the hell is happening.
Hello simracers,
Can someone please explain me, or link me the page where it is explained, which is the best combo of firmwares to install to stop, or at list limit the loss of FFB?
I`m aware of the tightening of the screws, I was just wandering which is the best combo of FW, if there is one.
Thanks
@Umberto Milone
https://forum.fanatec.com/discussion/comment/126730/#Comment_126730
Hello. I think I already commented a few pages ago that those who had ITM on the steering wheel or base (especially the steering wheel) would try to remove it from fanalab. I don't suffer from disconnections but phantom presses from the mouse's funky switch. And the camera moved in the middle of the race when I pressed the menu button on the steering wheel. It occurred to me to remove the ITM and now it works perfectly. Losing the ITM of course. And now what I'm left with is that I need to dial 3 or 4 presses sometimes for the funky rotary switch to dial one. So I would try removing ITM
Jesus Lucena
thanks but that is not a solution. that is ignoring a issue what in reality should be fixed
just checking back in months later....... it's been like 6 months since this problem started and still no fix hahahahahaha what a joke of a company
Since I am not using ITM Page 4, I do not have any disconnects. It works perfectly for about 4 days.
I am using DD+ and BME module , driver version 457 and fanalalab version 2.01.35.
What’s itm
David Mullally
itm shows extra telemetry info from game car in those bigger displays
if game supports of course
https://fanatec.com/eu-en/steering-wheels/podium-steering-wheel-porsche-911-gt3-r-suede
It's nice to see that I'm not the only one with problem with the CSL pedals and Extreme DD.
We are waiting for a solution!
Totally agree Allan. It is just a solution for us and for the moment to be able to "enjoy" our base. In fact, Fanatec just answered me that I sent my PBME with RMA without guarantee that I would have to pay of course because they tell me that my PBME is broken When I told them that the PBME IS NOT THE PROBLEM!!. since if I connect it to my old DD1 everything works perfectly. I will have to send videos of how it is working on my DD1 and wait another three weeks for a response!!
Let's say that because of this rule of three you ALL have a broken PBME!!...it's not that the controllers or the DD+ itself are bad. It is now the fault of the PBME (irony mode ON)
So how do u turn off itm on console or are u guys talking pc.
I personally mean on PC. I don't know how to disable it in the console, sorry.
This from the Quick Guide:
“A small “ITM” icon in the bottom right of the BME display shows if ITM is accessible. To scroll through the screens, press and hold the Tuning Button while rotating the FunkySwitch left or right.
To access ITM on the Podium Base display, press and hold the Tuning Button while pressing UP with the FunkySwitch, which will show the legacy screen and a small “ITM” icon in the bottom right if ITM is accessible. Scroll through screens by keeping the Tuning Button held down while pressing left or right with the FunkySwitch.
NOTE: ITM functions require the use of FanaLab on a Windows PC.”
On a console there is no ITM support at this time AFAIK. ITM is not active unless there is something like Fanalab sending data - nothing to do on the wheel if no ITM data is being sent to it