Podium Wheel Bases (and Racing Wheels) discussion

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  • Well I have just spent my first two hours ever driving with a DD wheel. What are my impressions so far? It is dead quiet no rattling like I was used to with my t500, the only sound I heard was a fan cutting in and out at times. The speed, this wheel is so quick to respond to your inputs, it is instantaneous. I never thought I had any lag with my t500 but after using the dd1 tonight I have realised I had massive lag. Tonight I was able to manipulate the car into spots I have not been able to before, it is so precise, I felt like I was on the edge of losing the MCR 2000 in rfactor 2 on every turn in and exit but was able to catch it at all times, that would not have been possible with my t500. It is so smooth as well, I guess there is some resistance or friction with belt drives but not this thing. The quick release works fine as well, I have seen guys mention it being loose or hard to get on properly but I found it to work perfectly on the few occasions I put my rim on and off. There is a bit of a learning curve moving to fanatec but wow, I could not be more impressed with my initial feelings on this kit. Now I just have to wait until my two advanced shifter modules to turn up to finish off my wheel update. The combination of the heusinkveld sprints and the dd1 are a match made in heaven for me, have not enjoyed Sim racing as much as I did tonight for a long long time. I feel that it is possible that the response time of the wheel will make you quicker too in the ability to rotate the car in and out of corners. To me the difference from going from a mid range belt drive to a DD is like going from a goon bag (cask wine) to champagne. If you can afford it I would advise you not to hesitate in going the DD route. If you can't afford it....then start saving!
  • Does all DC current from the power supply pass through the kill switch ("hard" kill) or can current still flow to the wheel base after the kill switch is activated?
    I was kinda hoping that the killswitch would just kill the ffb but still be able to drive the car to safety, without having to completely turn off the base Hopefully there's gonna be a fix for that in the very near future.
    That's really not what a kill switch does. It's supposed to cut power in the event of serious injury, like "I need to pull what's left of my thumb out of the wheel and drive to the emergency room to see if they can reattach it". In the event that you need the kill switch, what's going on in the sim is no longer a priority. However, a "kill switch" that can't physically break the circuit carrying inbound current... isn't actually a kill switch at all.
  • edited May 2019
    Just had this weird bug again, where my DD2 is switching pedal mappings (CSPv3) suddenly by its own mid race:
    Clutch became Throttle, Throttle became Clutch and Brake is always 100% pressed. Everything is connected to the base with the new cables of the DD2. Only the handbrake remained correct mapped when this bug occurred.

    Same mapping issue is visible in the driver, so it’s not the game. DD2 needs to get restarted to fix it.

    @Fanatec, please fix your driver asap!
  • Good afternoon I have acquired a podium base dd1 and to turn it off I keep the button on off and the white light of the button goes off, but the screen of the dd1 and the power supply are still on. Should not everything be turned off completely?
  • Good afternoon I have acquired a podium base dd1 and to turn it off I keep the button on off and the white light of the button goes off, but the screen of the dd1 and the power supply are still on. Should not everything be turned off completely?

    Yes it should, have you updated to latest firmware?
  • I've also had issues with v3 pedals. Initially it was just a case of updating both pedal and DD2 firmware. That sorted the issue of the throttle being continually depressed. Today all of a sudden it went full throttle (without me pressing obv) and required a reboot... which fixed it. Couldve been the game though (Dirt Rally, xbox). Fyi, not hating. Loving this thing atm.
  • Just had this weird bug again, where my DD2 is switching pedal mappings (CSPv3) suddenly by its own mid race:
    Clutch became Throttle, Throttle became Clutch and Brake is always 100% pressed. Everything is connected to the base with the new cables of the DD2. Only the handbrake remained correct mapped when this bug occurred.

    Same mapping issue is visible in the driver, so it’s not the game. DD2 needs to get restarted to fix it.

    @Fanatec, please fix your driver asap!
    There is a beta firmware.  If you contact support (even via chat) you can get the hex file.

    I did, flashed my wheelbase, and have had no issues since.
  • Good afternoon I have acquired a podium base dd1 and to turn it off I keep the button on off and the white light of the button goes off, but the screen of the dd1 and the power supply are still on. Should not everything be turned off completely?
    I have the exact same problem with my dd1. I contacted support and sent them a video. I also tried the latest beta firmware support gave me with no luck. Do you recall if yours worked before flashing to the latest firmware? I feel like mine did. They are wanting me to send it in for RMA which really frustrates me considering it works and took months to finally get. I feel like it'd a firmware issue considering the button functions by disconnecting the usb.
  • Just an informational comment. I have always heard horror stories about getting a direct drive and having to upgrade your rig because the rig flexes from all the power of the DD. I have also heard, and even Fanatec states in the user guide for the DD2, that you probably should mount the device to a rig. I bought the DD2 knowing I don't have room for a rig and that I have was going to mount it to a desk using the V2 table clamp.

    I have the DD2 now and I have mounted to a desk. I have yet to see FFB shake the desk to the point it doesn't look like a long term solution. I have quite a few racing games ( F1 2010-18, Assetto Corsa, Assetto Corsa Competizione, Project Cars 2, rfactor 2) and none of them, while I am playing, are causing me to re-think my decision about mounting it to a desk. I do admit that the angle adjustment plate flexes, but it flexed with my CSW v2.5, I just mounted the DD2 directly to the clamp and end of story.

    I think more people would buy DD wheels who don't own a rig, if they weren't freaked out by thinking mounting it to a table won't work. I tend to think racers don't really properly adjust FFB and therefore have turned  it up way too high to be practical. Direct drive racing is all I that I heard it to be. The response is unreal. People say that DD doesn't necessarily make you faster. The feel makes you consistent and therefore overall, you will be faster. No more fast lap, slow lap, mediocre lap.

    Any comments would be welcomed.
  • Stanton Phillips said:
    I have the DD2 now and I have mounted to a desk. I have quite a few racing games ( F1 2010-18, Assetto Corsa, Assetto Corsa Competizione, Project Cars 2, rfactor 2) and none of them, while I am playing, are causing me to re-think my decision about mounting it to a desk. I do admit that the angle adjustment plate flexes, but it flexed with my CSW v2.5, I just mounted the DD2 directly to the clamp and end of story.

    Any comments would be welcomed.
    Similar here. I'm using the DD1 with my old wooden DIY rig (15mm boards). I sometimes forget to properly lock the board on which I screwed the DD1 and I never recognized it while driving. When driving with about 40% in most cases, a good table will do the job. If your driving 1980th rally cars with 100%, then you should have a stable rig instead. ;)
    If I was fanatec, I would also recommend solid rigs, because you never know what people do with your products and you don't want to be sued for not warning careless people...
  • edited May 2019
    Just had this weird bug again, where my DD2 is switching pedal mappings (CSPv3) suddenly by its own mid race:
    Clutch became Throttle, Throttle became Clutch and Brake is always 100% pressed. Everything is connected to the base with the new cables of the DD2. Only the handbrake remained correct mapped when this bug occurred.

    Same mapping issue is visible in the driver, so it’s not the game. DD2 needs to get restarted to fix it.

    @Fanatec, please fix your driver asap!
    There is a beta firmware.  If you contact support (even via chat) you can get the hex file.

    I did, flashed my wheelbase, and have had no issues since.
    Thanks for the info.

    Just opened a support ticket explained the issue and asked for the mentioned beta firmware. Not sure where to find the chat-support, so I hope they don't need to long for an aswer.
  • Well I have just spent my first two hours ever driving with a DD wheel. What are my impressions so far? It is dead quiet no rattling like I was used to with my t500, the only sound I heard was a fan cutting in and out at times. The speed, this wheel is so quick to respond to your inputs, it is instantaneous. I never thought I had any lag with my t500 but after using the dd1 tonight I have realised I had massive lag. Tonight I was able to manipulate the car into spots I have not been able to before, it is so precise, I felt like I was on the edge of losing the MCR 2000 in rfactor 2 on every turn in and exit but was able to catch it at all times, that would not have been possible with my t500. It is so smooth as well, I guess there is some resistance or friction with belt drives but not this thing. The quick release works fine as well, I have seen guys mention it being loose or hard to get on properly but I found it to work perfectly on the few occasions I put my rim on and off. There is a bit of a learning curve moving to fanatec but wow, I could not be more impressed with my initial feelings on this kit. Now I just have to wait until my two advanced shifter modules to turn up to finish off my wheel update. The combination of the heusinkveld sprints and the dd1 are a match made in heaven for me, have not enjoyed Sim racing as much as I did tonight for a long long time. I feel that it is possible that the response time of the wheel will make you quicker too in the ability to rotate the car in and out of corners. To me the difference from going from a mid range belt drive to a DD is like going from a goon bag (cask wine) to champagne. If you can afford it I would advise you not to hesitate in going the DD route. If you can't afford it....then start saving!
    I was looking into the sprints....but i do love my inverted v3's
  • Well Steve, being happy with them is the main thing.
  • with the supplied pedal cable , was there any update from Fanatec/Dom regarding using our own cable and adding a ferrite clip on both ends ?
    the supplied cable is way short, sorry if this has  already answered :)


  • Does anyone know what the top safe operating temperature of the dd1 is? I am just curious.
  • edited May 2019
    re-flashing my pedals didn't seem to help with the mis-configuration.
    Mid race, they just flipped again, this time in AC instead of Raceroom.. and my Porsche rim's motor is on 100% vibrate.
    Quit the game and the issue remains, so have to power cycle wheel to get it back to normal.

    Loving the wheel, but hope this issue is patched ASAP, its making it hard to enjoy using it at the moment. 

    P.S. Yes, I am using all the supplied cables for pedals etc.
  • edited May 2019
    re-flashing my pedals didn't seem to help with the mis-configuration.
    Mid race, they just flipped again, this time in AC instead of Raceroom.. and my Porsche rim's motor is on 100% vibrate.
    Quit the game and the issue remains, so have to power cycle wheel to get it back to normal.

    Loving the wheel, but hope this issue is patched ASAP, its making it hard to enjoy using it at the moment. 

    P.S. Yes, I am using all the supplied cables for pedals etc.
    The issue is within the Base firmware, NOT the pedal firmware so of course reflashing the pedal firmware is not solving that issue. Please contact the support which will provide you with a new base firmware v653 which should solve this issue. Or wait until next week when a new driver v335 will be available which contains this new firmware also.
  • I didn't think it would solve it, but others suggested it may, so was worth a shot.
    Shame its not just linked here on the forum, would save everybody having to tie up support with the same issue, but I am patient, I can wait until the driver is released
  • Does all DC current from the power supply pass through the kill switch ("hard" kill) or can current still flow to the wheel base after the kill switch is activated?
    I was kinda hoping that the killswitch would just kill the ffb but still be able to drive the car to safety, without having to completely turn off the base Hopefully there's gonna be a fix for that in the very near future.
    That's really not what a kill switch does. It's supposed to cut power in the event of serious injury, like "I need to pull what's left of my thumb out of the wheel and drive to the emergency room to see if they can reattach it". In the event that you need the kill switch, what's going on in the sim is no longer a priority. However, a "kill switch" that can't physically break the circuit carrying inbound current... isn't actually a kill switch at all.
    re-flashing my pedals didn't seem to help with the mis-configuration.
    Mid race, they just flipped again, this time in AC instead of Raceroom.. and my Porsche rim's motor is on 100% vibrate.
    Quit the game and the issue remains, so have to power cycle wheel to get it back to normal.

    Loving the wheel, but hope this issue is patched ASAP, its making it hard to enjoy using it at the moment. 

    P.S. Yes, I am using all the supplied cables for pedals etc.
    The issue is within the Base firmware, NOT the pedal firmware so of course reflashing the pedal firmware is not solving that issue. Please contact the support which will provide you with a new base firmware v653 which should solve this issue. Or wait until next week when a new driver v335 will be available which contains this new firmware alIs 



    Mo is it possible that you could enlighten us to what the next base firmware would entirely address ?
  • Can someone help the new Fanatec user please...


    Trying to update FW and such for the Podium DD1 and wheel.  After downloading and installing, I don't have anything close to what is described in the manual - not even a tab available to update firmware?   Seems like the base is recognized, but nothing related to the wheel?  I obviously missed something.  Everything seems to work fine, but was hoping to establish a bit more control over some of the buttons on the wheel - does the left analog stick function in GTS?  For me it does nothing?

    Appreciate any input / advice...

  • Can someone help the new Fanatec user please...


    Trying to update FW and such for the Podium DD1 and wheel.  After downloading and installing, I don't have anything close to what is described in the manual - not even a tab available to update firmware?   Seems like the base is recognized, but nothing related to the wheel?  I obviously missed something.  Everything seems to work fine, but was hoping to establish a bit more control over some of the buttons on the wheel - does the left analog stick function in GTS?  For me it does nothing?

    Appreciate any input / advice...

    Your base is in PS4 mode. Press the button combo of your wheel to change to PC mode, then everything will work.
  • hook up your pedals directly to the pc.....it sucks to have a second wire but you will never have a problem.
  • hook up your pedals directly to the pc.....it sucks to have a second wire but you will never have a problem.
    But you lose brake force adjustment via the tuning menu...
  • hook up your pedals directly to the pc.....it sucks to have a second wire but you will never have a problem.
    That's not the only issue, my wheels rumble motor comes on permanently too. 
    As above, I do like having the Brake Force adjustment on the base.
  • Thanks for the  input - updated all my FW accordingly.  However...part two of my ignorance...

    I used the Podium DD1 wheel base and wheel, and V3 pedal set right out of the box on my PS4 playing GTS.  Had no operational issues.  I did notice however that the analog stick had no functionality with PS4 - maybe this was this intended?  Well, after updating FW (thinking this might correct the issue) - the wheel now inadvertently disconnects while in gameplay.  There seems to be no indication of issues or consistency in the disconnect.  The wheel base still inputs to the game (steering) but all pedal control and inputs from the steering wheel are instantly gone.  This has happened every time I attempt to use it since updating FW.  The only thing that gets it back to operational is cycling the power.  After cycling power, it does fine for a few minutes - then disconnects again.  Is it possible to roll back to the previous FW?  This is frustrating.  My current config:

    PC Driver: 334
    WB FW: 651
    SW FW: 27
    WB Motor FW: 29

    I am using the new Podium DD1 and Wheel(licensed for PS4)
    Clubsport Pedals V3

  • some have knowledge about electro magnetic fields? volt per meter and microtesla?

    i was wondering why im getting headache after arround a hour of driving.
    yesterday while checking the emf the dd1 generate i was shocked.
    turning the wheel burst out peaks of 9 microtesla directly into your lower body parts.
    i put the tester on to my seat, ca 50cm from wheelbase.
    that 9ut is like sitting 30cm away from a turned on microwave!  this causes dna damage and cancer!   im not sure what to do now. driving every day for longer periods will definetly damage your health.  volt per meter looks good, almost 0 on the seat reagion. but the psu burst out a lot of v/m dont put it under your seat or at side of seat,  put it as far away you can.  :(
  • Don't know about EMF, but I know I get a headache after more than an hour due to using any wheel (or other device requiring my arms to be held up) for prolonged use due to tightness in my shoulders/neck which ends up feeling like a migraine. Haven't used my DD2 yet, but expecting with the significant increase in torque it might get worse. I need to learn to relax my shoulders better & not tighten up. Probably need to improve my ergonomics & more exercise would help me too...
  • edited May 2019
    Deleted
  • edited May 2019
    Mario, it's really important that you've got your facts right on something like this before starting an unecessary firestorm of concern.

    Can you describe EXACTLY how you got your measurements? For example, please tell us what meter you used and details such as :

    1. How much EMF the wheelbase put out without turning the wheel. (baseline EMR reading)

    2. The average reading while driving (average EMR reading) and what strength you had the base set to while driving.

    3. How often you measured peaks at 9 microtesla (peak EMR reading) and what strength you had the base set at to get this figure.

    4. What is the EMR reading in your driver's seat with the motor turned off but all other equipment (on your rig) on?

    5. What is the EMR reading in your driver's seat with all equipment (motor and all other stuff) turned off?

    6. What is the average ambient EMR reading elsewhere in your home?


    I don't really expect you to conduct such tests, or answer these questions, but you must understand, without such details, your test result really isn’t much use to anyone. You can't just stick a meter on your seat once and say "That's the figure. And it's giving me headaches!"

    When such testing is done by 'experts', they have to follow all manner of protocol. Who knows, your headaches may have more to do with how many coffees you have each day?

    9 microtesla is a surpisingly high reading from any domestic appliance. On the following page from the South Australia Government's Environmental Protection Agency, you can see a wide range of EMF measurements from a range of sources, including power transmission lines and a range of domestic electrical products: https://www.epa.sa.gov.au/environmental_info/radiation/understanding_radiation/powerlines

    As you can see, other domestic devices with motors (such as vaccuum cleaners and hairdryers) don't even come close to 9 microtelsa. Such a  reading fact is actually in the range of EMF exposure you'd get from standing under a 275,00 volt high-voltage 3-phase power transmission line. (see: https://www.arpansa.gov.au/understanding-radiation/radiation-sources/more-radiation-sources/electricity)

    It's important to be totally sure of your figures and methodology on this before airing your concerns. As a reasonable courtesy, I for one would appreciate it if you would please provide much more detail about how you conducted your testing before you freak everybody (including Fanatec) out.
  • some have knowledge about electro magnetic fields? volt per meter and microtesla?

    i was wondering why im getting headache after arround a hour of driving.
    yesterday while checking the emf the dd1 generate i was shocked.
    turning the wheel burst out peaks of 9 microtesla directly into your lower body parts.
    i put the tester on to my seat, ca 50cm from wheelbase.
    that 9ut is like sitting 30cm away from a turned on microwave!  this causes dna damage and cancer!   im not sure what to do now. driving every day for longer periods will definetly damage your health.  volt per meter looks good, almost 0 on the seat reagion. but the psu burst out a lot of v/m dont put it under your seat or at side of seat,  put it as far away you can.  :(
    It is possible that your headache is caused by using a stronger wheel base, a different driving position, or something entirely unrelated. The Podium Series systems are fully certified, have passed all EMI tests, and comply with all EMI regulations worldwide.
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